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Medical Technologies. Pharmaceutical Cosmetology, Cosmeceuticals Based on Herbal Medicines: Modern Trends and Regulatory Approaches

Osyntseva, Alina et al. · Zenodo (CERN)
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Medical Technologies. Pharmaceutical Cosmetology, Cosmeceuticals Based on Herbal Medicines: Modern Trends and Regulatory Approaches | Zenodo Skip to main Communities My dashboard Log in Sign up Zenodo is currently experiencing slowness and intermittent outages due to heavy automated traffic from bots and AI crawlers. We are aware of the problem, and our team is focused on stabilizing the service. Thank you for your patience. Published May 3, 2026 | Version v1 Journal article Open Medical Technologies. Pharmaceutical Cosmetology, Cosmeceuticals Based on Herbal Medicines: Modern Trends and Regulatory Approaches Authors/Creators Osyntseva, Alina Shapovalov, Valerii Shapovalov, Valentyn Description Introduction. Modern cosmetology is characterized by the integration of medical technologies, pharmaceutical and cosmetic approaches, which led to the formation of cosmeceuticals as a separate direction. A special place in cosmeceuticals is occupied by phytopreparations that contain biologically active substances (flavonoids, carotenoids, triterpenoids) and provide a complex effect on the skin. Purpose of the study. To analyze the role of herbal remedies in cosmeceuticals on the example of Calendula officinalis L. (calendula extract), to conduct a comparative analysis with the requirements of Deutsches Arzneibuch (DAB), as well as to perform a SWOT (Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities, Threats)- and PESTEL (Political, Economic, Social, Technological, Environmental, Legal) analysis of the development of phytocosmeceuticals. Materials and methods. Documentary analysis of scientific sources and regulatory documentation, comparative analysis of pharmacopoeia requirements, pharmacological analysis of biologically active substances (quercetin, β-carotene, oleanolic acid derivatives), as well as SWOT and PESTEL analysis were used. Cosmeceutical preparations, in particular Calendula ointment (International Nonproprietary Name: Calendula extract) and dexpanthenol agents (chemical name: (R)-2,4-dihydroxy-N-(3-hydroxypropyl)-3,3-dimethylbutanamide) were studied. Results. It has been established that herbal remedies provide anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antioxidant, and regenerative effects due to their multicomponent composition. Calendula extract has been shown to be effective in the treatment of inflammatory and degenerative skin conditions. It has been found that the requirements of DAB are more stringent and provide for standardization according to marker compounds and the use of chromatographic methods (TLC - (Thin-Layer Chromatography), HPLC (High-Performance Liquid Chromatography). SWOT analysis demonstrated the strengths of phytocosmeceuticals (naturalness, biocompatibility) and limitations (composition variability), while PESTEL analysis confirmed the significant impact of macroeconomic and regulatory factors on the development of the industry. Conclusions. Herbal remedies are a promising area of cosmeceuticals that combines effectiveness and safety. Calendula officinalis L. is one of the key ingredients in modern cosmeceuticals. It is necessary to improve the standardization system in accordance with European requirements and introduce innovative technologies to improve the quality of products. Files osintsevaFIN.pdf Files (561.2 kB) Name Size Download all osintsevaFIN.pdf md5:ec2a117040bdc122e851ae9c8b9ce01c 561.2 kB Preview Download Additional details References 1. Shapovalova V., Osyntseva A., Shapovalov V. Medical Technologies: Pharmaceutical Cosmetology, Cosmeceuticals - Opportunities and Limitations. Annals of Mechnikov's Institute. 2026. No.1. P. 30-38. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.18887719 2. Klymyshyna S.O., Tsysnetska A.V., Rachkevych L.V. Pharmaceutical cosmetology. Lviv: Danylo Halytskyi Lviv National Medical University, 2008. P. 1-226. 3. Shapovalova V.O., Shapovalov V.V., Osyntseva A.O. Materials for ensuring the final control of the educational component Pharmacognosy. Rivne: DZ "LDMU" 2023. 36 p. (Protocol No. 1 dated August 31, 2023). 4. Kyslychenko V.S., Zhuravel I.O., Marchyshyn S.M. Pharmacognosy. Kharkiv: NFaU, 2015. 736 p. 5. Osyntseva A.O., Shapovalova V.O., Shapovalov V.V. Work program of normative educational component 32 "Resource science of medicinal plants". Rivne: DZ "LDMU". 2023. 18 p. (Minutes of the meeting of the university council on the quality of education dated August 31, 2023, No. 1). 6. Shapovalova V.O., Shapovalov V.V., Osintseva A.O. et al. Working program of normative educational component 26 "Pharmacognosy". Rivne: DZ "LDMU". 2023. 19 p. (Minutes of the meeting of the university council on the quality of education dated August 31, 2023, No. 1). 7. Tkachenko V.G., Shapovalova V.O., Shapovalov V.V. et al. A collection of preparation materials for the unified state qualification exam (UEKI) on the educational component of Pharmacognosy. Rivne: DZ "LDMU" 2023. 36 p. (Protocol No. 2 dated September 26, 2023). 8. Yurchenko T. Calendula Officinalis L.: Study for Prospects of Creating Combined Dosage Forms with Naturally Similar Properties. SSP Modern Pharmacy and Medicine. 2025. Vol.5. No.1. P.1-25. DOI: https://doi.org/10.53933/sspmpm.v5i1.175 9. Osyntseva A. Interdisciplinary Evaluation of Phytotherapy Resource Calendula Officinalis L. in Patients with Tuberculosis and Combined Pathologies. SSP Modern Pharmacy and Medicine. 2025. Vol. 5. No. 3. P. 76-92. DOI: https://doi.org/10.53933/8xgwaq64 10. European Directorate for the Quality of Medicines & HealthCare (EDQM). European Pharmacopoeia – New online-only 12th Edition. Council of Europe. 2025. Vol. 12. Iss. 1. P. 1-100. https://www.edqm.eu/en/european-pharmacopoeia-new-online-only-12th-edition 11. Deutsches Arzneibuch (DAB). German Pharmacopoeia. German Medical Association. 2022. Vol. 1. Iss. 1. P. 1-3000. https://www.bfarm.de 12. EMA Committee on Herbal Medicinal Products. Assessment report on Calendula officinalis L., flos. European Medicines Agency. 2017. Vol. 1. Iss. 1. P. 1-40. https://www.ema.europa.eu 13. Preethi K.C., Kuttan R. Wound healing activity of flower extract of Calendula officinalis. Journal of Basic and Clinical Physiology and Pharmacology. 2009. Vol. 20. Iss. 1. P. 73-79. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1515/JBCPP.2009.20.1.73 14. Della Loggia R., Tubaro A., Sosa S., Becker H., Saar S., Isaac O. The role of triterpenoids in the anti-inflammatory activity of Calendula officinalis flowers. Planta Medica. 1994. Vol. 60. Iss. 6. P. 516-520. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1055/s-2006-959562 15. Fonseca Y.M., Catini C.D., Vicentini F.T., Nomizo A., Gerlach R.F., Fonseca M.J. Protective effect of Calendula officinalis extract against UVB-induced oxidative stress in skin. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology B: Biology. 2010. Vol. 96. Iss. 1. P. 1-7. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2009.03.005 16. Benson H.A.E., Watkinson A.C. Transdermal and topical drug delivery: principles and practice. Wiley-Blackwell. 2012. Vol. 1. Iss. 1. P. 1-400. DOI: https://doi.org/10.1002/9781118140505 17. Gryzodub O., Shapovalov V. Quality systems in Pharmacy: multidisciplinary context of the State Pharmacopoeia of Ukraine. SSP Modern Law and Practice. 2023. Vol. 3. No. 1. P. 1-23. DOI: https://doi.org/10.53933/sspmlp.v3i1.81 18. Shapovalova V. Telemedicine and Telepharmacy in Modern Healthcare: Innovations, Medical Technologies, Digital Transformation. SSP Modern Pharmacy and Medicine. 2025. Vol.5. Iss. 3. P.1-19. DOI: https://doi.org/10.53933/r7f5xj91 19. Shapovalov V., Shapovalova V., Shapovalov V., Veits O., Diachenko A. & Osyntseva A. (2026). Vision 2035 - Medico-Pharmaceutical Law for Human Security. Publisher: Scientific Research Establishment of Innovations for Future LLC. ISBN 979-8-9942371-3-7. DOI: https://doi.org/10.53933/b91avw28 20. Shapovalov V., Nevzghoda O., Shapovalova V., Osyntseva A., Shapovalov V. Legal and bioethical foundations of human cell and tissue cryobanks in Ukraine: regulatory framework, challenges and prospects. Problems of Cryobiology and Cryomedicine. 2025. Vol. 35. No. 4. P. 167-180. DOI: https://doi.org/10.15407/cryo35.04.167 21. Shapovalova V.O., Nevzghoda O.A., Shapovalov V.V., Osyntseva A.O., Shapovalov V.V. Tuberculous Pleural Disease (Pleuritis, Empyema): Clinical Perspective on First-Line Antituberculosis Medicines and Manufacturer-Based Content Analysis. Tuberculosis, Lung Diseases, HIV Infection. 2026. No. 1. P. 36-40. DOI: https://doi.org/10.30978/TB2026-1-36 52 Views 33 Downloads Show more details All versions This version Views Total views 52 52 Downloads Total downloads 33 33 Data volume Total data volume 20.2 MB 20.2 MB More info on how stats are collected.... Versions External resources Indexed in OpenAIRE Communities Keywords and subjects Keywords cosmeceuticals herbal medicines Calendula officinalis calendula extract flavonoids dexpanthenol pharmacopoeia SWOT analysis PESTEL analysis Details DOI DOI Badge DOI 10.5281/zenodo.20009226 Markdown [![DOI](https://zenodo.org/badge/DOI/10.5281/zenodo.20009226.svg)](https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.20009226) reStructuredText .. image:: https://zenodo.org/badge/DOI/10.5281/zenodo.20009226.svg :target: https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.20009226 HTML <a href="https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.20009226"><img src="https://zenodo.org/badge/DOI/10.5281/zenodo.20009226.svg" alt="DOI"></a> Image URL https://zenodo.org/badge/DOI/10.5281/zenodo.20009226.svg Target URL https://doi.org/10.5281/zenodo.20009226 Resource type Journal article Publisher Zenodo Published in Annals of Mechnikov Institute, 2, 30-42, ISSN: 1993-4327, 2026. 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