The Somme, Volume 1. The First Battle of the Somme (1916-1917) (Albert, Bapaume, Péronne)

SECOND DAY.

THE VALLEY OF THE SOMME-COMBLES-PÉRONNE. SECOND DAY. THE VALLEY OF THE SOMME-COMBLES-PÉRONNE. Leave Amiens by the Rue Jules Barmi (continuation of the Rue de Noyon), then, after passing the station, by the Chaussée Périgord and N. 35. After passing through Longueau, the road forms a double fork. Take the left-hand road in both cases. At Petit Blangy there is an important Australian cemetery on the left. After twice crossing the railway the road enters Abbé Wood . On leaving the road, at the foot of a descent (15 km. from Amiens), take the Corbie road on the left, via Fouilloy . There is a fine 16th-18th century church at Corbie. Restored in the 19th century, it is the remains of a famous abbey. The town suffered severely from the bombardments. CORBIE. RUE HERSANT AND THE CHURCH. SAILLY-LE-SEC. Take the Rue Faidherbe as far as a house with brick turrets, where turn to the right into the Rue Victor Hugo. Beyond Corbie, the road follows the marshy valley of the Somme to Vaux-sur-Somme . On leaving this village there is a British-American graveyard on the right, by the side of the parish cemetery. The road next passes through Sailly-le-Sec , whose church is in ruins. At the end of the village take the road on the left, then at the wayside cross, that on the right up Hill 108 , past two British cemeteries. 2 km. beyond Sailly-le-Sec, the Corbie-Bray road (G.C. 1) is joined, which take on the right , past a large British cemetery on the right. Having crossed Tailles Wood (notice the gun-emplacements) G.C. 1 descends alongside a quarry which sheltered a large German ammunition dump (photo below). 2 km. beyond the quarry, the village of Bray-sur-Somme is reached. NEAR TAILLES WOOD. GERMAN AMMUNITION DUMP. Bray-sur-Somme Throughout the offensive of 1916, Bray was an important revictualling centre, and as such, frequently bombed by German aeroplanes. Troops and convoys were constantly passing through. In 1918, the Germans, having driven back the British beyond the old front line of 1914-1916, occupied Bray on March 26, six days after launching their offensive. Immediately progressing beyond the town, they advanced along the Somme to the vicinity of Sailly-le-Sec, where the front line became fixed at the end of March. The Franco-British offensive of August 8, the objective of which was to reduce the Amiens Salient, cleared the Somme Valley as far as the outskirts of Bray, where the Germans resisted strongly. However, on August 22, General Rawlinson's Army, in a fresh effort, succeeded in carrying Hill 107—an observation-post which dominated the country to the north-east. On the night of the 23rd, Australian troops, slipping along the river, entered Bray and captured a large number of prisoners. BRAY-SUR-SOMME. CHURCH AND PLACE DE LA LIBERTÉ. The town which, until 1918, had practically escaped damage, suffered severely in the subsequent bombardments, and was moreover thoroughly pillaged by the German troops during their occupation. In this they complied with the instructions of the High Command, who ordered all the churches and chapels in the region of the Somme to be carefully searched, not excepting the " altars, confessionals and other parts of the church, access to which is reserved by ecclesiastical rules to the priests only ." In pursuance of this decree, dated May 20, 1918, the church of Bray-sur-Somme was despoiled of its furnishings. A magistrate-member of the Enquiry Commission, visiting the church a few days after the Germans had left, reported: "A large number of bottles were lying on the floor. The baptismal font was fouled with urine. The door of the Holy of Holies, which bore traces of having been forced, was twisted and the iron-work torn off." The church itself (Hist. Mon.) , dated from the 13th and 15th centuries. It was greatly damaged by the bombardments. The spire collapsed, the façade was pierced with numerous shell-holes, while the timber work and roofing were partly destroyed. The church is reached by the Rue des Massacres. After visiting the church, proceed to the bottom of the square, where, on the right, turn to the left into the Rue de Cappy. Pass a Merovingian cemetery, then follow the marshy Valley of the Somme to Cappy (3 km. from Bray) . CAPPY. THE VILLAGE AND BRIDGE OVER THE CANAL. Cappy, lost on March 26, 1918, was reconquered exactly five months later by the British. The Germans had a dump in the village for all the sacred articles stolen in the district. This depôt was installed in the yard of the billet occupied by the " officer in charge of the booty ," opposite a building which, according to a notice posted up by the Germans, was the meeting-place of the " detachments for the collection of the booty ." The sudden arrival of the British did not leave them time to carry away the booty, which included three bells, a quantity of metallic objects, chandeliers, candlesticks, crucifixes, and "six greatly damaged ecclesiastical ornaments." THE CANAL NEAR THE LOCK. WOUNDED ON THEIR WAY TO THE DRESSING-STATION. The church has a massive fourteenth century fortified belfry, the upper story of which comprises four watch-towers resting on the corner abutments. Two of these towers were destroyed by the bombardment. FRISE CHURCH IN JULY, 1916 (see pp. 71 -72) . Near the Church, take the road which runs parallel to the Somme canal. On leaving Cappy there is a large Franco-British cemetery on the left . Eclusier (3 km. beyond Cappy) is next reached ; it is the principal portion of the " commune " of Vaux-Eclusier. Vaux , which forms the other portion of it, lies on the northern bank. On July 1, 1916, the French first lines, passing through the eastern outskirts of Vaux-Eclusier, barred the Valley of the Somme with a continuous line of small posts established in the middle of marshes, thus connecting the organisations on solid ground on the northern bank with those of the southern bank. There is a French military cemetery on the right, before entering Eclusier. In spite of numerous bombardments, Eclusier has retained the appearance of a village. Most of the damage is repairable. It was only in January, 1916, that Vaux-Eclusier became the last village occupied by the French in the Valley of the Somme. Previous to that date the advanced lines ran beyond the village of Frise , 2 km. further to the east. FRISE CHURCH IN SEPTEMBER, 1917 (see pp. 70 -72) . To reach Frise, keep straight along the Somme Canal. Standing on a picturesque site dominated by a hill on the north, the village lies on the left bank of the Somme, opposite the marshes, at the end of a large bend in the river. This bend measures 7 km. round, whereas the isthmus which separates the two arms of the river, opposite Frise, is scarcely 1 km. in width. These conditions made it very difficult to defend the village, which was accordingly used only as an advance-post. The Germans attempted to capture the place on several occasions by local surprise-attacks and mining. In January, 1916, a powerful attack with large forces succeeded, after a violent bombardment, in occupying the position, but the Germans were unable to debouch from it. FRISE CHURCH in 1919 (see pp. 40 -42) . Only the two trees are left. The French retook Frise on the morning of July 2, 1916. In the course of a brilliant attack, the successive lines of trenches which defended the southern and eastern parts of the village, were carried, and the latter was evacuated by the Germans at noon. Giving the enemy no time to reform, the French followed up their success by attacking the German second line, and before nightfall carried that part of Méréaucourt Wood which lies to the east, on a crest about 340 feet high, overlooking the Valley of the Somme. Frise was completely destroyed. Here and there fragments of walls and half-burnt beams mark the site of the old houses. Some of the inhabitants have returned and are being housed in huts erected in the Place de l'Eglise. The large modern church has disappeared, the tottering ruins having been pulled down. VAUX VILLAGE AND THE VALLEY OF THE SOMME. On leaving Frise, return to Eclusier by the same road. Beyond the church take the road on the right which crosses first the canal, then the marshes by means of three bridges. At the fork, take the right-hand road to Vaux . There is a fine view of the River Somme and the marshes, including part of the battlefield of July 1, 1916. In the valley, walled in by high chalky cliffs, the Somme, bordered with high poplar-trees, follows its winding course among marshes and peat-bogs, intersected with patches of rushes and reed-grass. The half-hidden ruins of Frise are on the right. On the left fragments of walls are all that remain of Fargny Mill and the buildings which surrounded it. The French first line ran close by on July, 1, 1916 (photo, p. 74 ) . FARGNY MILL, JULY, 1916. FARGNY MILL DAM AND THE "GENDARME'S HAT." In 1919 the mill had disappeared. Behind, the edge of a once wooded ravine, the chalky substratum of which, laid bare by shell-fire, was christened "Gendarme's Hat" by the Poilus, formed the Germans' first line. Further away, in the hollow of the valley, appear the ruins of Curlu village. The road runs alongside the Somme. At the site of Fargny Mill go round the "Gendarme's Hat" —from which the attack of July 1, 1916, debouched— to reach Curlu . Curlu had been transformed into a stronghold by the Germans. THE "GENDARME'S HAT," JULY, 1916. Debouching from Fargny Mill, on the morning of July 1, a regiment of the French 20th Corps carried all the German advance-positions with great dash, notably the "Gendarme's Hat." However, at the outskirts of Curlu, further advance was stayed by machine-gun fire, making fresh artillery preparation necessary, which destroyed most of the houses. Rushing again to the assault in the evening, the French, in a few minutes, drove the Bavarians from all their positions, and the enemy's numerous attempts during the night and throughout the next day to regain a footing in the village broke down before the French barrage fire. CURLU CHURCH. Fragment of 13th century wall—all that is left of the village. The day after the capture of Curlu, the French resumed their advance, and soon reached the village of Hem , which they carried on July 5, after fierce fighting lasting the whole day. The road follows the line of the advance, from Fargny Mill to Hem. At Curlu leave the church on the left. Numerous shelters, graves and cemeteries are seen along the road, which passes near Hem-Monacu (2 km. beyond Curlu) ; a few broken walls, 300 yards to the right of the road, are all that remain of the village (photo below) . HEM-MONACU. RUINS OF THE CHURCH. CLERY CHURCH AND VILLAGE. The French were held to the east of Hem (see sketch-map, p. 71 ) , by the strong defences around the village. These positions consisted of: a wood full of barbed-wire entanglements, situated to the north, near the station of the Albert-Péronne light railway; to the north-east, other strongly organised small woods and a quarry. Further to the east, on the Combles-Feuillères road (G.C. 146), Monacu Farm —a veritable fortress with numerous strong-points—was connected with other defences which had been organised in the slag-heaps of the phosphate of lime works belonging to the St. Gobain Glass Manufactory. These defences extended as far as the Somme marshes, where the long reeds hid the numerous machine-guns. The French carried all these centres of resistance at the end of July and beginning of August, and kept them in spite of fierce German counter-attacks, some of which lasted thirty-six hours. At Monacu Farm the German efforts assumed a particularly violent character. The French artillery, posted on the top of the cliffs, enfiladed the attacking waves, which were each time forced to fall back in disorder with very heavy losses, without being able to reach the French lines. These successful operations, while enabling the French to secure the whole second line of the German defences, also gave them an outlet, on the north, into Combles Valley—the long, dry and sinuous ravine along which runs the Albert-Péronne light railway. On the south, they also commanded the bridges and roads leading to Feuillères, on the left bank of the Somme. The bridges were immediately rebuilt, and direct communication ensured between the troops engaged north and south of the river. Three kilometres from Curlu, take the Feuillères-Maurepas road (G.C. 146) on the left, to Hem Wood (500 yards further on). Here take the G.C. 213, on the right, to Cléry-sur-Somme —an important village on the north of a bend in the river. Fine view of the Somme, towards Péronne. In the Middle-Ages, Cléry was a fortified town commanding the valley of the Somme. Here the Dukes of Créquy, then lords of the district, built a fortified castle in front of the river marshes, to which the family device: " Nul s'y frotte " ("Meddle not with me") was given. Before the war some fourteenth century vestiges of the castle were still to be seen. CLERY. CEMETERY IN MADAME WOOD. In fortifying Cléry, the Germans took full advantage of its favourable position; powerful defences were made in the outskirts of the village, and in the surrounding woods and ravines, while many of the houses were transformed into centres of resistance. However, in spite of the strength of its defences, Cléry was entirely carried in a single assault on September 3, 1916, after a terrific bombardment which the German communiqués qualified as "ferocious." The success was an important one, as Cléry commanded the various roads leading to Maurepas, Combles and Bouchavesnes on the north, another road on the east leading to Feuillancourt and some bridges across the Somme. The capture of the hamlet of Omiécourt at the other end of the bridges, two days after that of Cléry, enabled the French to connect up their positions north of the Somme with those on the left bank of the river. The Germans counter-attacked in force several times, but were unable to retake the position, in spite of very heavy losses. Cléry was completely destroyed; only a few broken walls and shattered roofs remain, and even these few traces of the formerly prosperous village are crumbling away and disappearing. A few unrecognisable fragments of ruins, standing amid an accumulation of stones and rubbish, are all that is left of the fifteenth century church. There are numerous soldiers' graves in the village, and also many military defence-works. To the east of Cléry the turbid waters of the Somme spread themselves out, forming immense marshes, intersected by a labyrinth-like network of channels. The French advance was directed from this side in 1916, while on the east they were likewise blocked by the Mont-Saint-Quentin Hill, which rises nearly 200 feet above the Somme Valley, from Cléry to Péronne, and which the Germans, by powerful defences, had converted into a second "Warlencourt Ridge." Although within sight of Péronne, scarcely three miles distant, the French could get no farther. Cléry, on the right bank of the Somme, was the nearest village to Péronne conquered by the French in 1916. MAUREPAS VILLAGE—COMPLETELY RAZED. In March, 1918, no important engagements were fought on the old Somme battlefields. On March 24 the Germans crossed the Somme, south of Péronne, and forced the Tortille line north of the town. Overwhelmed and in danger of being surrounded, the British had to fall back hurriedly, under the protection of rear-guards, who were unable to check the enemy's advance. In the following month of August the valley of the Somme was cleared of the enemy almost without firing a shot. In accordance with Marshal Foch's general plan, the British attack of August 21 was limited to the north of the Somme. The Germans had just been driven back, south of the river, from the district of Montdidier to the outskirts of Roye, as a result of the Franco-British offensive of August 8. The Allied plan provided for the withdrawal of the enemy's right wing from the banks of the Ancre to Bapaume, thereby necessitating the immediate evacuation of the whole bend in the Somme by their centre, and this is what actually happened. As soon as Bapaume was invested, the Germans hastily retreated, and whereas, on August 28, the British were still hanging on to the western outskirts of Curlu, on the morning of the 29th they were in Hem, and in the evening of the same day had progressed beyond Cléry. On leaving Cléry, return by the same road to Hem Wood, where take the Feuillères-Maurepas road (G.C. 146), on the right towards Maurepas. The road runs alongside Hem Wood (cut to pieces), crosses a ravine in which ran the Albert-Péronne railway, and then rises towards a crest from which starts, on the left, a road (500 yards from the fork) leading to Maurepas (completely destroyed). The Germans strongly fortified the village of Maurepas which protected Combles from the south-west and formed the junction of six roads coming from all directions. It was an agglomeration of large farms, each of which possessed a meadow surrounded with trees. These farms had to be carried almost one at a time, and the advance was therefore very slow. MAUREPAS POND. The first assault against the village was launched on August 12 by troops coming from Hardecourt-aux-Bois; only the southern and western parts of the village—including the fortified cemetery and the church—could be carried. The northern part fell a few days later. Finally, on August 24, the last centres of resistance—notably the houses alongside of the roads leading to Combles and to Forest—were captured. In the village, near a cross, take the road to Combles , on the right, crossing the north-west part of the village . The site of the church is on the right, while on the left is a small German redoubt (photo below) , from which there is a line view of Hardecourt-aux-Bois . Hardecourt, which cannot be reached by road, stood at the junction-point of the French and British forces during the offensives which aimed at the investment of Combles. It had been captured in less than three hours by the French on July 8, 1916, together with the eminence which protects it on the north. A few scattered ruins are all that remain to-day of the village. The road runs straight from Maurepas to Combles (3 km.). MAUREPAS. GRAVES AROUND A GERMAN REDOUBT. PANORAMIC VIEW OF COMBLES AND THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY. A.— Trônes Wood ; B.— Guillemont ; C.— Ruins of Church ; D.— Entrance to the Underground Shelters ; E.— Combles-Guillemont road ; F.— Bouleaux Wood ; G.— Quarry used as howitzer emplacement ; H.— Morval ; I.— Combles. Morval road ; J.— Maurepas-Combles road . Investment and Capture of Combles by the Franco-British Troops in September, 1916 Combles formed the last redoubt in the German defences until September, 1916. Nature had made the position an exceedingly strong one. Enclosed at the bottom of a small valley and completely surrounded by a girdle of hills, Combles was out of reach of the artillery. For two and a half years the Germans had been fortifying this position, building formidable entrenchments and extensive subterranean defences in and around the village. The systematic conquest by the Allies during the first half of September, 1916, of the whole region, including the villages of Forest, Maurepas, Guillemont and Ginchy, had brought about the fall of the whole of the defences of the stronghold, on the south and west. A fresh Franco-British attack was launched on September 25, after a terrific bombardment, with the object of encircling the fortress, by the capture of the strong points which still protected it on the east and north (see sketch-map, p. 81 ) . On the south-east, the French, starting from their trenches in the old German positions of Le Priez Farm—a powerful redoubt protected by six lines of defences which they had carried by assault on September 14—captured the hamlet of Frégicourt. On the east, they carried Rancourt village, and all intermediary positions between these two points, advancing as far as the north-western corner of St. Pierre-Vaast Wood. ONE OF THE ENTRANCES TO THE UNDERGROUND SHELTERS OF LAMOTTE CHÂTEAU. (Stretcher-bearers taking a meal.) On the north, the British took the fortified villages of Morval and Lesbœufs, and nearly joined hands with the French. The Germans had now only one line of communication with their rear, consisting of a hollow road which, winding towards Sailly-Saillisel to the north-east, through La Haie Wood, was under the fire of the Franco-British artillery. The Germans therefore decided to evacuate their positions, but the Allies did not give them time to withdraw in good order. On the morning of September 26 they attacked again, the objective being this time the defences of the village itself. Their junction was to be the centre of the village and "London" the pass-word. The plan of attack was carried out to the letter. The French 110th Infantry Regiment, debouching from the south-east, carried all that part of Combles lying east and south of the railway, including the cemetery and railway-station. The 73rd Infantry Regiment captured and consolidated the western part of the village, in spite of stubborn resistance. The City of London Regiment cleared the north-western portion of the village. The streets and the road leading to Sailly-Saillisel, along which the Germans retreated, were filled with their dead; 1,200 prisoners and important quantities of material and supplies, both food and ammunition, were captured. Lying partly at the bottom of the valley and rising partly in tiers on the slopes of the surrounding hills, Combles (1,150 inhabitants, mostly engaged in silk and wool weaving) had suffered less from this fierce fighting than might have been expected. Although damaged (shattered walls, disjointed timber-work and tile-less roofs) many of its houses were still standing at the end of 1916. The village had, however, been thoroughly pillaged by the Germans, and traces of their long occupation were everywhere to be seen, including concrete shelters, strong-points, for machine-guns, underground passages, chambers, etc. IN THE UNDERGROUND SHELTERS OF LAMOTTE CHÂTEAU. (German Officers' room.) The tunnels, excavated out of the solid rock under the Lamotte Castle, which already existed before the war, were the most important of these subterranean organisations. The Germans utilised them as posts of commandment, dressing-stations, mustering-places, etc. They were large enough to shelter several companies at a time and sufficiently deep to be proof against the heaviest projectiles. There were separate entrances and exits, ventilating shafts, electric light, etc., and they were comfortably fitted up. Beds were installed in the walls, and there were tables, chairs, armchairs, tapestries, etc.—all stolen from the houses in the village. Combles in 1918 In 1918, the British attacked the Combles positions, only after the fall of Bapaume. Gen. Rawlinson's Army remained till August 29, 1918—when Bapaume was taken—on the line reached on the 26th, which ran west of Ginchy, Guillemont and Hardecourt-aux-Bois. Resuming their advance on the 29th and pressing hard upon the heels of the retreating enemy, they carried these three villages the same day, then Maurepas, and finally Combles itself, advancing beyond in the evening. The ruin of the village was completed during these operations. Very few houses retained their four walls and roofs. Of the Town Hall a piece of broken wall only remains. The church was almost entirely destroyed, only a few fragments of the façade remain standing amid a heap of stones and rubbish. On reaching Combles turn to the left and cross the village as far as the ruined church , opposite which is the entrance to the underground passages and chambers of Lamotte Castle . The church stands at the junction of two roads. Take the right-hand one (G.C. 20) which rises towards Guillemont village , built on the top of a hill (altitude 462 feet). The road runs between two small woods— Bouleaux Wood (on the right) and Leuze Wood (on the left)—both cut to pieces by the shells. COMBLES CHURCH. On the right: Guillemont road; on the left: impassable road to Hardecourt. Bouleaux Wood was carried by the British on September 15, 1916. The attack coinciding with a German counter-attack, gave rise to an exceedingly violent encounter. After capturing an important redoubt, east of the wood, the British gradually outflanked the enemy on the wings, and pressing hard from all sides, forcing them to retreat one kilometre northwards at the end of the day. Leuze Wood was also carried by assault. The village of Guillemont (2 km. beyond Combles) is next reached. Guillemont (razed to the ground) was entirely captured by the British on September 3, 1916. No trace whatever remains of the houses, the sites of which are now indistinguishable from the surrounding fields. The whole area was devastated and is now overrun with rank vegetation. After its capture it was strewn with wreckage of all kinds—stones, bricks, beams, agricultural implements, and household furniture from the shattered farms and houses. The fine modern church, Gothic in style, which stood in the centre of the village, has entirely disappeared. 1 km. 500 beyond Guillemont is Trônes Wood , to reach which, take the Montauban road (G.C. 64) on the left at the fork of the village. GUILLEMONT. SITE OF THE DESTROYED VILLAGE. MONUMENT TO THE DEAD OF THE BRITISH 18TH DIVISION. Trônes Wood was the scene of much desperate fighting between the British and the Germans during the first fortnight of July, 1916. The struggle was almost incessant from July 8 to July 14, the wood changing hands seven times (the Germans say they lost and retook it eighteen times running). On both sides the greatest bravery was displayed, despite terrible losses. British progress was long stayed by a concrete blockhouse (still existent) in the middle of the wood, from which, through slits in the walls, enemy machine-guns rained death unceasingly on the assaulting columns. A battalion of the Royal West Kents remained forty-eight hours cut off in a corner of the wood to the north-east, and repulsed many furious assaults without loss of ground. The trees were hacked to pieces by the shells. Among the stumps may be seen trenches, shelters, blockhouses and small forts. In the middle, to the right of the road, is a pyramid erected to the memory of the officers and men of the British 18th Division, killed in 1916-1918 in the Battle of the Somme (photo above) . At the end of the wood, near a rail track on the right, and fifty yards from the road, is a concrete blockhouse (photo below). TRÔNES WOOD. MACHINE-GUN BLOCKHOUSE. Return by the same road to the fork at Guillemont, and take the road on the left (leaving that going to Combles on the right). 50 yards farther on, take the road to Ginchy on the right . This little village (1 km. from Guillemont) lies on the western slope of the high "Ancien Télégraphe," plateau formerly chosen by Chappe as a telegraph post. Situated at the crossing of six roads, Ginchy defended Combles (4 km. to the south-east) on the north-west. Partly conquered on September 3, 1916, Ginchy was only completely occupied by the British on September 9, after a terrible struggle lasting three days, in the ruins of the village (entirely destroyed). The Irish troops (Connaught, Leinster and Munster Regiments) particularly distinguished themselves. Follow the road through Ginchy, leaving on the left the roads to Longueval (passable) and Flers, and, on the right, the road to Morval. There is a British cemetery in Ginchy, on the left. Keep straight on to Lesbœufs. GINCHY. WHERE THE CHURCH USED TO STAND. LOG ROAD OVER HILL 154. Beyond Ginchy, the road is made of logs for several kilometres (photo above). It crosses a shell-torn plateau (Hill 154), on which numerous graves convey an idea of the violence of the struggle. In May, 1919, a large German material and ammunition dump, also a rail-track, were still to be seen there. There is a German cemetery on the left, this side of Lesbœufs . Lesbœufs village, next reached , was entirely destroyed; only a few shell-torn trees and (on the right) a mound of stones and rubbish (the church) remain. Cross the village and keep straight onto Le Transloy , noticing the numerous graves on the right and left. Of this important village only a few broken walls remain. After crossing the village N. 37 is picked up; 100 yards farther on , the ruins of a large sugar factory are seen on the left. Take N. 37 on the right to Péronne , passing through Sailly-Saillisel , 4 km. beyond Transloy .

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