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Darlington Memorial Library
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Book
"lULlflM 4 M^py DARLINGTON
MEMORIAL LIBRARY UNIVERSITY Of ,'ITTSBUR6H
HISTORY
SULLIVAN COUNTY
.N ACOiJUNT OF ITS GEOLOGY, CLDIATE, ABOUIGINES, EARL\
bETrLEMENT, ORGANIZATION; THE FORMATION OP
ITt? TOWNS, WITH BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES
OF PROMINENT RESIDENTS, ETC., ETC.
BY
JAMES ELDRIDGE QDINLAN.
PUBLISHED BY G. M. BEEBE AXD W. T. MORGANS.
LIBERTY, N. Y. : W. T. MoltGANS & CO., PiilNTERS & STEUEOTY 1873.
Entered according to Act of Congress, in tbe year 1872, by
JAMES KLDKIDGE QITNLAX, In the Office of the LibrariHn of Congross, at Washington.
To Ho 71. Archibald C, Niven :
From i8j8 to 1866 ^ (except during a brief interval,) .1 ims an editor of a ne-ivspaper of Sullivan county.
Whenever^ from illness or absence, I was unable to dis=' ■ charge my editorial duties, your able and facile pen was
zvield-edfor me gratuitously. Therefore, as a slight t-cken of my gratittuie, I respectfully dedicate to yon this %'olume.
THE AUTHOfR.
P E EF A CE.
In 1853, Lotan Smith, president of the Agi'icultiu-al SocietT of Sullivan Coimty, under the auspices of the State, wrote what he termed a History of Sullivan County. It was expected that it would be inserted in the Transactions of the State Agricultural Society; but the gentlemen who controlled the pubHcation of that work rejected Mr. Smith's manuscript, and returned it to its author, with a chapter on the Geology and another on the Climate of the county, which had been prepared by Professor Antisell.
Soon after this occui-red, Billings Grant Childs, a young gentleman of fair literary qualifications, announced that he had assumed the task of writing a history of Sullivan. For a time, as he had opportunity, he collected material for the proposed volume; but after writing a chapter on the town of Liberty, which covered ten manuscript pages, became weary of the task. He then made an arrangement with Jay Gould, under which Mr. Gould and Mr. Childs were to be associated as authors and pubhshers. This, however, led to no residt, and the project was abandoned by them.
The author then commenced writing this volume, and perse- vered to the end, although a painful physical infirmity often compelled him to put aside his pen for weeks and months at a time, and he has seldom been able to complete more than thre« manuscrij^t pages in a day.
By purchase and otherwise, the memoranda, etc., of Messrs. Smith and Childs passed into our hands, and to the extent recorded in our foot-notes we have had the advantage of their labors. Much more are we indebted to Professor Antisell, whose valuable papers we liave copied and adopted as the first and second chapters of our history.
[5]
In addition to this, we have been favored with the oral and written statements of nearly one hundred weU-known residents of the county.* These statements we have compared with each other, and with official documents and records, as well as what we have found in liles of old newspapers and gleaned from other sources of information. The result, gentle reader, is before you. Tou maj- detect errors of commission and omission; but we have guarded against both, through long years of patient research ; and we hope that you will decide that our work is not wholly destitute of merit. Be this as it may, we present it to you as a rough, not a jjorfect ashlar, knowing that the peculiar circumstances under which it was fashioned rendered excellence of execution impossible. It has liglitened the burthen of our Mfe. May it enhance the enjoyment of j'ours !
• A list of those who have aiiled 119 in this enterprise was dehvcrfil to our pub- lishers, who exercised unnsnal rare in ^iiardiu},' against the loss of our MSS. ; but despite their vigilance, the original Preface and Introd\iotion, with the List of Cou- tribntore, were stolen from tlieir safe by some person ^ho had aeei^sg to it. The pre- face and introduction may be re-written ; but no accurate copy of the list can l>e Fnpplied. No one deplores thi-^ m<ire than we do ; and no one siioukl be censured for it, except the stealthy offendir. who has st^ilen that which is entirely useless tn liimself. We are greatly indebted to C. G. .V. Oudet for assistance in prepariu;; our MSS. for the press. Mr. Oudet, althougli of foreign birth, has a bi tfer knowledge of the English lajiguage than many educatetl natives of our country.
I X T E 0 I) u c r I O N .
Sullivan county is situated between 41^' 25' and 42° north latitude, and 1° 46' and 2^ 32' east longitude from the city of Washington. It is bounded north-westerly by the county of Delaware, north-easterly and south-easterly by the county of Ulster, south-easterly, southerly and easterly by the county of Orange, and south-westerly by the State of Pennsylvania. According to Buit's Atlas, its area is 919 square miles, and it contains 587,000 acres of land.''
The mean altitude of the coiuity above the level of the ocean is about 1,500 feet, and its surface is characterized by ranges of hills of moderate height, with intervening vallej-s. Detached mountainous elevations are found in towns bounded by Delaware and Ulster counties, and the Shawangunk mountain is parallel with the south-easterly boundary of the town of Mamakating.
The Delaware river fomis the dividing line between the county and Pennsylvania, while the Shawangunk river is its sou^- eastern limit. The Neversink rises in the county of Ulster, and after crossing the towns of Neversink, Fallsburgh, Thompson and Forestburgh, enters Orange county. The Eondout passes through the north-east corner of Neversink, and the jMongaup or Mingwing has its source near the center of the county, and running southerly joins the Delaware. The Wilhwemoc, Beaverkill, Calhcoon, Ten Mile river, and many smaller stream.s are also affluents of the Delaware.
Geologically (with some exceptions) tlie county is of the Catskill period, Devonian age and Paleozoic time. These exceptions are noted in the first chapter of this work by Professor Antisell, an expert in geology.
* According to the asseesraent-roUs of the several tow-na, the county containe 601,705 acres. Some tr^ts of laud which are covered by water are not returned for t&iatiOD.
[7]
O INTRODUCTION.
The aborigines of the county were principally Esopus Indians, who were of the Wolf tribe of the Lenni Lenape or Delaware nation, whose history is given in our third chapter.
Except some small tracts on the west bank of the Shawangunk river, the county is covered by the Minisink and Hardenbergh patents.
In 1684, Governor Dongan bought of Manganaett, Tsema and Keghgekapowell alias Joghem, (who claimed to be the proprietors and principal owners,) with the consent of Pemeranaghin, chief sachem of the Esopus and other Inrlians named, a tract of land extending on the Hudson from the Paltz to lands of the Indians at Murderer's kill, and westward to the foot of the high hills called Pitkiskaha and Aiashawosting. For this territory ninety pounds were paid in duifels, wampum, stroud-water, cloth, blankets, cider, strong beer, etc. One year later Dongan bought of Maringoman, the sachem at Murderer's creek, the land from that stream to Stony Point.*
On the 12 th of September, 1694, under Governor Fletcher, a patent was granted to Captain John Evans, which covered the west bank of the Hudsou from the Paltz to Stony Point, (eighteen miles,) and reaching westward thirty miles. A literal constraction of tlie grant would have placed his westward line within the borders of Thompson, and given him laud now within the Minisink and Hardenbergh patents. He paid for his patent five hundred pounds.
Captain Evans was captain of the Richmond man-of-war, and was sent to New York with his vessel in 1693, where he was on duty for six jears, during whi>ih ho erected on his estate tha lordship and manor of Fletcherdon, and spent 12,000 pounds in improving it, expecting to retire thither " wliou thei-e should be a happy and lasting peace." He was permitted to sow, but not to reap. Both Fletcher and Evans were ordered from New York, and the patent was annulled. During Queen Anne's reign, his grant was renewed ; but while the honest sailor waa fighting for his sovei-eign on the ocean, the land-pirates of the time induced the Queen to deprive him once more of his manor! Those who wTought his ruin, divided his manor among themselves.
' tlieso fivots are from a well-authonticated MS. written M
INTRODDCTION. 9
He continued to sue for justice until he was an old man, when reluctant and partial justice was awarded him, bj giving him another and less valuable tract.
On the 12th of March, 1703, the Wawayanda patent was bouglit by John Bridges and Company of twelve Indians, viz : Rapingonick, Wawastenaw, Moghopuck, Comelawaw, Nanawitt, Ariwimack, Rumbout, Clauss, Chouckhass, Chingapaw, Oshas- quemous and Quilapaw. It is believed that in this purchase was included the INIinisink patent, which was granted on the 28th of August, 1704, to Matthew Ling, Ebenezer Wilson, Philip French, Dirck Vandenbergh, Stephen Delancy, Philip Rokeby, •John Corbet, Daniel Honan, Caleb Cooper, William Sharpus, Robert Milward, Thomas Wenliam, Lancaster S^'mes, John Pierson, Benjamin Ashe, Peter Bayard, John Cholwell, Peter Faiiconnier, Heniy Swift, Hentlrick Ten Eyck, Jarvia Marshal, Ann Bridges, widow of John Bridges, and George Clark, Secre- tary of the Pro\'ince of New York. Eight of these persons were patentees of the Wawayanda and two of the Hardenbergh patent. The Minisink grant at first contained 250,000 acres; but its owners subsequently grasped and held 50,000 acres east of the true boundaries of their patent.
For many years New Jersey claimed and held so much of the Minisink patent as is covered by the Seventh Division, and also 80 much of the Hardenbergh patent as would be cut off by runnmg the north-east line of that division to Station Rock, in Cochecton. In 1769, a Commission was appointed to settle the boundary, which decided in favor of Now York, and established the present line between New York and New Jersey, from the Hudson to the Delaware.
On the "15-22 day of March, and in the 6th year of Her Majesty's reign, Anno Dom. 1706-7," Major Johannes Harden- bergh, a merchant of Kingston, bouglit of Nanisinos, a sachem of the Esopus Indians, and "xightful lord owner and proprietor of Several parts of land in the county of Ulster," the immense tract now known as the Hardenbergh patent.* For this he p^-id
* In 1749, when the patent was partitioned anions its owners, the Indians claimed that NaniBinoa did not convey that part wliich is nitHated between the east and west branches of the Delaware, and refiised to permit surveyors to go there. Notwithstand- ing this, a map was made of tlie disputed territory, on which the land in question was divided into eightparwls, and one of these allotted to each party in interest. On the 3d ot June, 1751, Johannes Hardenbergh bought the real or assumed right of thesa
10 INTROBUCriON.
sixty pounds current money of New York — less than one-tenth of a mill per acre.*
On the '20th of April, 1708, the Hardeubergh, or as it is some- times called, the Major or Great Patent, was gi-anted to Johannes Hardenbergh, Leonard Lewis, Philip Rokeby, William Notting- ham, Benjamin Faneuil, Peter Faucounier and Robert Lurting, in free and common socage, and subject to no rent or service beyond the payment of seven dollars and fifty cents, annually, on Lady day, to the Collector of the custom-house of New York ! Two of the patentees were mere lay figures. Fourteen iceehs before the grant teas made., Robert Lurting released one-seventh of the patent to Thomas Wenham, and on the same day, Philip Rokeby conveyed his interest to May Bickley. In addition to this, there was a secret miderstanding that Augustus Graham, the survej'Oi'-general of the pro\-ince, should be entitled to one- eighth of the grant, and this imderstanding was acknowledged after his death in 1729, when the parties in interest declared that his heir (Jaines Graham) was entitled to an equal share with the others.t
Previous to 1740, several of the proprietors sold their interest^ and others died. Li that year, Robert Livingston owned five- sixteenths ; Gulian Verplanck three-sixteenths, Johannes Har- denbergh, jr.,]: Charles Brodhead and Abraham Hardenbergh two-sixteenths, John Wenham two-sixteenths, the heirs and assigns of Lewis two-sixteenths, and the heirs of Faneuil two-
Irulians for 1491. and 198. The deed is sigiipd by Sappan, John Palling and twenty other members of the Esopus tribe. At that time, )io grant was legal uiilfss the. naiive tiUe was crtiiignUhM before (he grant was made.
During the French and Indian war, the Delawaree claimed that they had been dc- friiud.d of nearly the entire Hardenbergh patent.
'^Nanisinos, in the deed given by him, described the tract a.9 follows ; '* All thafe trai!k of Land Lyin" and being in the "county of Ulster aforesaid, running from certain Hills that lye on tbe south east side of the meadow or low laud that lies on the tish C.'rciek Uivor or kill to tlie north west of Marbletown bounds, and are the north west part of the hills and mountains that range from the blue hills north west Ten miles, and streacbes north easterly on the brows of sd hillg as they range to the bound or the Oiunty of Alliany, and south westerly on the brows cf anid hills as they range opposite the nest rnrner of Marbletown bounds, and still further south westerly with tne fuU brertdth Irom the north west boundaries of Rochester, to where the said'ten miles end, Uumiiiit; tio far as to run with a duo south east line to a certain fall in the rondout creek called by the Indians hoonchk, which is the north bound of the land called Nepcnath, belonging to Jacob Rutzeu and Jan Jans Bleecker."
i Previous to 1749, Major Johannes Hardenbergh, the patentee, sold his undivided right in the patent to Brodhead and JohatwiMs Hardenbergh, jr. Abraham Harden- bfirgh subsequently bought a part of this right. No member of the Hardenbergh fanuiy holds land which has descended to him by inheritanc* from the patentee.
INTliODUCnON. 11
Bixteenths. The patent was thcu partitioned between the several proprietors, when Livingston drew Great Lots 8, 12, 22, 27 and 42; Livingston and Verplanck Lots 4, 6, 7, 10, 13, 14, 15, 21, 23, 24, 30, 32, 33, 38, 39 and 40 ; the Hardenberghs and Brodiiead Lota 3, 9, 16, 19, 29 and 37; John Wenham Lots 1, 18, 2G, 34, and 35 ; the heirs and assigns of Lewis Lots 2, 17, 20, 28 and 36; and the heirs of Faneuil Lots 5, 11, 25, 31 and 41.
Li the same year, Livingston and VerpUinck partitioned what they owned jointly, when the former became the sole proprietor of Lots 4, 15, 23, 30 and 40, and parts of 7, 14, 21, 33 and 39, and his partner of the balance.
Although some attempts were made to found settlements in SuUivan county, it cannot be said that it was occupied by white residents previous to 1790, except in Mamakating, Lumberland, Cochecton and Neversink. An account of tliese settlements will be found in our history of the several towns. Soon after the latter year the Livingstons and other landholders induced men to come into this region, and buy or lease unoccupied lands, and from that time dates the birth and growth of many of our settle- ments.
A considerable impetus was given to immigration b}- tlie con- struction of the Newburgh and Cochecton tuiupike.* This work speedily led to the organization of the county, wliich was erected by an act of the Legislature passed Mai'cli .27, 1809.
In selecting a name it was deemed proper to adopt that of some eminent Revolutionary patriot whose deeds were in some way connected with our territory. Of the Generals who had had anything to do on our soil previous to and during the straggle for Lidependence, General James Clinton was the one who should have been complimented ; but his name had been already bestowed on auotlier county. So the coiauty was named Sullivan, in honor of General John Sullivan, t a part of whose
* The Newbiu'gh and Cochecton Turnpike Company was chartered on the 20th of Maroli, 1801. Kobert Bowne, .lohn De Wiut, William Seymour, Levi Dodge, Johannes stiller, Hus;li Walsh, George Clinton, jun., William W. Saokett and Ueorgfi Gardner
I Jc.hn Sullivan was of Irish descent, and was born in Berwick, Maino, on the 17th of February, 1740. His youth was spent chiefly in farm-labor. At matm-ity ho studied law, and established himself in its practice in Durham, New Hampshire, where he soon rose to considerable distinction as an advocate and poUtician. He was chosen a dele- gaU^ to the Continental Congress in 177i, and soon after liis return from Philadelphia, he was engaged, with John Langdon and others, in seizing Fort WlUiani and Mary, at Portsmouth. When the following year the Continental army was organized, he" was
12 INTRODUCTION.
army crossed onr borders when it marched to chastise the hostile Indians of western New York.
In 1816, Otto William Van Tujl, Jabez Wakeman, Daniel Clark, William W. Sackett, Richard R. Vooris, Jabez Wakeman, jun., Samuel F. Jones, John Knapp, George A. Wakeinan, Alexander Ketcluim, George Vaughn and others were made a body corijorate and politic, under the name of "The President and Directors of the Neversink Navigation Company," for the purpose of opening that river for rafting business, from Lock- wood's Mills, in the present town of Fallsburgh, to the Delaware. The tolls authorized were enormous, ranging for boards and plank from one to two dollars per thousand feet, and other articles in proportion. If the company had succeeded in making the river navigable, its revenue woidd have been princely; nevertheless the stock of the company, excepting a few shares, was not taken, and its treasury was empty until 1828, when Van Tuyl, its president and manager,* obtained from the State a loan of ten thousand dollars, giving as security a mortgage on the river! About two thousand of this was expended legiti- mately, and the balance (S8,000) was consumed in paying the president's debts, buying a stock of goods, and in other ways, after which a raft Avas started fi-om Lockwood's !Mills, with Squires M. Hoyt and a man from Rockland, named Brown, on board. It ran as far as the " Dive Hole," where it was wrecked. Another was started from Mc'Kee's mill, in charge of Ii-a Mills, a Mr. Springer, and a son of Van Tuyl. This passed the " Dive Hole;" but soon after collided with a rock, and was broken up.
ai'pointed one of tbo eight jlrigadie:
rs first commissioned bv Congress ; and early in
17 1 6, he was proraoted to Slajur
•general. Early in the spring of that year he supcr-
seded Arnold m command of the i
I'ont
inental troops iii Canada ; and later ui the season
be joined Washington at N.» \
1 .1 ;.. r ■] ■,....! cnimaiided the . hef forces at
Brooklyn, designed to rep. 1 il
i. - ■■ . : ■ - ,o ,1 Isl^iiul: but «a- tiiUcn sick,
and the leadership of his iliv,
- - ■ - i;iv:m. In the .li^^a-mniB battle
that soon followed, he w:i- i .
■ -.. - n aft.-i-.varJs 1 xch:ni-ed, and
took command of Leo's divi-i ';
1 '^ ■ .■ .^'I'lc-r'-; eiiunre later in the
season. In the autumn of 17V: '
- . o„ ,,,:,:,. of BraiKlvwine and
Germanto\™; and m the ^iv ■
' ' ' - -• , :■! Kiioji- Is and, prepar-
story to an attempted rxpnl-i
^ 1 - ■ ■ lie liesieg.d Newport in
August 1778, bnt wa:^ ..n-n
1 1 , ' V ill : .1 .l'E,-iaiiig would not
co-operate with liim. ;i . ■ ■'
er, i„.r,.ial Soil. van's military
can4rrh.8r,l:,lt,rl - ■
- , . I,elian,,inwe.t,.ni New York,
earlvintheautu.ii:. ■ ■ ■ i
--! n because he felt n -grieved at
some action of 0,. !• i V,
;- ' 1. ete.l to a seat in Congress.
From nsi; t.. 17-!' i
,: , ■ \ ■ i! e.p.l.ire. wlien, under the
provision oi •,. : m 1 • . , i . office he h. 11 I.- , . ' •.
i . - - .' : i I'lsirict Judge. That
.11 : 11 y, 171)5, when ho was
in thutitiv-!ii::. ', - o ■ 1
*8qmr..»M. Sloyi, .;,....„. i
Sau l,i..l , ,:e;:„ i..,.,H n.eretary of the company.
INTRODUCTION. 13
Mills was drowned. Although the euterpiise resulted in poverty and reproach to Van Tuyl, he never lost confidence in it, and continued to make futile attoinjits to improve the river, until the State foreclosed its mortgage.
It cannot be said that Sullivan enjoyed a large measure of prosperity previous to the construction of the Delaware and Hudson canal. Three years after the completion of the work, John Eldridge laid the foundation of a large tannery on the outlet of Lord's pond, and Rufus Palen and his associates that of another at Fallsburgh. Austin Strong followed at Wood- bourne, Bushnell & Van Horn at Taunersdale, and others at various points. These establishments brought wealth and muscle, and caused large additions to our population.
The New York and Erie lailroad was another source of jirosperity, especially to the Delaware river towns.
A reference to the census of Siillivau should not be omitted by us :
Year. Population.
1790* 1,763
• Mamakating only.
1800 3,222
1810 6,108
1814 6,233
1820 8,900
1825 10,373
1830 12,364
1835 , 13,755
•1840 16,629
1845 18,727
1850 25,088
1855 29,487
1860 32,385
1865 32,741
1870 34,649
INDEX.
Page.
Preface 5
Introduction 7
Geology 17
Climate 60
Ijenni Lenape 60
Bethel 116
Callicoon 148
Coeheeton and Delaware 182
FaUsburgh 224
Forestburgh 274
Fremont 291
Highland 302
Liberty 326
Lumberlaud 367
Mamakating 378
Neversiuk 456
Eockland 490
Thompson 513
Tusten 637
Delaware and Hudson Canal 655
N&w York and Erie Kuihvay 663
New York and Oswego Midland Kailroad 675
Appendix 691
HISTORY
OF
SULLIVAN COUNTY.
fflSTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
CHAPTER I.
GEOLOGY — BY PROF. ANTISELL.
Tlie rocks which form the basis of Sullivan county are what are termed stratified or sedimentary", having been formed under deep water.* These strata fomi a portion of the series known as palozoic rocks, formei'ly termed lower secondary ;t and they embrace what is known to British geologists as the Devoniaa and Upper Silurian System. In the Natural Histoiy of New- York, Part IV., by \V. W. Mather, these rocks are gi'ouped under the following heads :
' Catskill Division ;
Erie Division ;
Helderberg ) Catskill Shaly Limestone,
Division ; [ Water Lime Group.
Ontario Division; \^^^^'^^ ^\ Shawangiink Con.
' j glomerate.
Champlain Division ; Hudson Iliver Group.
New
York
System.
* No igneouB or Plutonic rookB arc found in the county.
t " EocKs," said Davy, "are generally divided by geologists into two grand divisioni, distinguished by the names ofprimax'v and secondary. The primary rocks are coraposea of pure crystalline matter, and contain no fragments of other rocks. The secondary rocks or strata consist only partly of crystalhuo matter, contain frajmonts of other rocks or strata, often abound in the remains of vegetables and marine animals, and sometimes contain the remains of land animals. The number of primary rocks which are commoulv observed in nature are eight : 1. Oranitey composed of quartz, feldspar and mica ; when these are arranged in regular layers in the rocks, it is called gneiss. 2. Micacemis schist, composed of quartz and mica. 3. Sieiiiie, which consists of horn- blende and feldspar. 4. SerpeiUinc, composed of feldspar and resplendent hornblende. 6. Porphyry, which consists of feldspar. 6. Granular marble, or puio carbonate of lirao. 7. Cldorile schist, a green or grey substance somewhat analogous to mica and feldspar. 8. Quartiose rock, composed of quartz. The secondary rocks are more numerous than the primary ; but twelve varieties include all that are usually found iu these islands : 1. Oraywacke, which consists of fragments of quartz or chlorite schist. Imbedded in a cement principally composed of feldspar. 2. SUicious sandstone, which ia composed of flue quartz, or sand, united by a silicioua cement. 3. Limestone, or carbonate of Ume, more compact in its texture than in the granular marble, and oftou abounding in marine exuvia. 4. Aluminous schist, or shale, consisting of the decom- jwsed materials of different rocks, cemented bv a small quantity of ferruginous or eilicious matter, and often containing the impressions of vegetables. 5. Ckilcareoiia sandstone, which is calcareous sand cemented by calcareous matter. 6. Ironstone, formed of n«arly the same materials as aluminous schist or shale, but containing tk much larger quantity of oxide of iron. 7. Basalt or whin-stone, which consists of feld- spar and hornblende. 8. Bituminous or common coal. !). Oypsum or sulphate of luna, 10. liocksalt. 11. Chalk, which usually abounds in the reniains of mai-iue animals, and contains horizontal layers of flints. 12. Plum-pudding stone, consisting of pebblea cemented by ferruginous or silicious cement." [Elom. Agri. Chem., p. 192.
2
13 nis'ioKY or sullivan county.
In other volumes of the State Survey, different names have been assigned to these beds.
Bj f;ir the larger extent of the county is covered by the Cats- kill 'division. The remaining rocks of the New York system are only exjjosed in the eastern sections of the towns of Keversink and Forestburgh, Mamakating, and in the southern portion of ihe county.
These rocks have, generally speaking, one common dip and strike, from which the deviations throughout the county are but trifling. The angle of elevation of the strata is so small, that there is not presented over the county any mountaui mass one tliousand feet above the level fi-om which it rises. Tlie uniformity of the strike, and the similarity in form of the hiUs produced by such shght elevation are at once presented to the eye of the observer looking fi-om the top of Walnut Mountain, Mutton Hill, or any other elevated position, where the whole county presents the appearance of an ocean, crested with parallel waves of nearly equal lieight, rolUng in one dii-ection.
The dip of the strata in the county is westerly, and the strike north-east. (Tlie jiarticiilar deviations from this general occur- rence wUl be noticed hereafter.) In traveling across the county fi-om East to West, the newer strata appear ; and it is by travel- ing in the county in this direction, rather than North and Sciuth, that the most correct information of the position and thickness of the strata can be collected. Tlie courses of the rivers and creeks being generally from North to South, afford m many places good points of observation.
The rocks of the Catskill group deserve to be noticed, from their occupying so large a surface in extent. These rocks, com- monly known as the old red sandstone, are the newest formed rocks in this section of the State of New York. They form the basis rock in which the coal fields of Pennsylvania he, and rising from under these, they constitute the bed of the Delaware river, and spread into SuUivan, Ulster and Greene counties, covering up the lower groups of the New York system, which only emerge from under their beds in the East and South of the county.
Beds of rock of very different (felor and appearance are classed together in this gi-oup ; the predominance of sand, generally fer- ruginous, forming beds of sandstone, shale and conglomerate. The giits are both coarse and fine, and of various sliades — red, green, brown, gi'ey and mottled. The arrangements of these beds generally is fiom above downward : 1. Conglomerate and coai-se grits. 2. Bed shales, slates and grits. 3. Grey and green- ish grits and slates. 4. Chocolate-colored grits, with red shales and slates.
The total thickness of these beds of rock, at the point where their gi-eatest development has been measured, is about four
GEOLOaY. 19
thousand feet ; but nowhere does it reach this measurement in Sullivan county ; for the beds ai-e so broken up, and the same series so contmually upraised in distances not far apart, that the ■whole series is not exposed upon the surface.
The mountain elevations are also so shght, that only a few hundred feet of thickness of the strata can be read ofl' the e8- carpments. "Walnut Mountain has tlie highest 'summit in the county, and stands about six hundred feet above the jilane of the base. The strata of which it is composed fiom above down- ward are —
1. Quartz conglomerate; 4. Grey sand-rock;
2. Grey sandstone ; 5. Red shale ;
3. Red sandstone ; 6. Green grit.
A section of a hill on the " Three Thousand Acre Tract," two miles west from the village of Liberty, aiTorded the following siiccession :
1. Quartz conglomerate; 6. Red sand-rock ;
2. Red and green grit ; 7. Conglomerate ;
3. do do 8. Grey sand-rock;
4. Grey gi'it; 9. Green sand-rock.
5. Red shale ;
These two hills appear to be composed of the same beds. The bed marked 5, being well defined, constitutes a good point of comparison.
Mutton Hill lies more to the East, and has less of the Catskill ptrata forming its structure, as is evident from the section of its East side :
1. Reddish conglomerate; 3. Grit;
2. Quartz conglomerate ; 4. Grey grit.
This hill corresponds to beds marked 0, 7 and 8 on the "Tliree Thousiuid Acre Tract." Mutton Hill has not the upper beds capping the other.
These illustrations will serve to show liow the same lines of rocks are repeated over a few mUes. This must arise from fracturing of the strata.
The evidences of this are well seen on the Mount Hope and Jjumberland turnpike road, where the red and grey grits and shales overspread in several ]:)laoes, where the faults and bend- jngs of the strata occur, so as to make the beds show themselves repeatedly.
The fractures and bendings of the strata are more inclined in the South of the county than in the "West, and more in fuU on the Shawangunk hiUs.
One of tlie most common characteristics of the gi-its of thiff group are tiie irregular lines which marlc their surface, and which lire so frequent as to form a ready means of cliissiiying the rock when observed. These Jines of laminatinn indicate the direction
20 HISTORY OF SmXIVAN COUNTY.
of the current of water which deposited them. These must not be confounded with the Unes of stratification.
Their obhque lamination is more common in the grey grits, though discernible in many of the strata of the red grits. The boulders* on the roadside show this lamination often more dis- tinctly than the rock in place. The rocks of this division, how- ever they may be in appearance, belong to but two varieties j that is conglomerate and sandstone. The sandstones are admit- ted to have been formed by what is termed shore action — by the action of a large body of water on a rocky beach, washing and wearing it domi, and sifting the finer matters fi-om the coai-se, and conveying the latter down under the water level, and spread- ing it along the shore bottom, covering it for several miles. The similarity in appeaj'ance of the present sea shores and the red sandstone rocks, wan'ants the belief. This shore action existed previous to and during the period of the coal deposits in Penn- sylvania, and was produced by the joint action of equatorial and polar currents of water during this period.
A great portion of the present continent was under deep water, and what is now known as the GuK Stream, and the curreuts of ice-cold wat«r fi'om the pole.", flowed directly over the continent. The directions of the mountain cliams in South America — similar chains in the East and "West, and the elevated land in the North, altered the direction of the current of warm water flowing from the tropics, and caused it to flow circuitously by the base of the Kocky Mountains, part flowing into the Arctic Sea and Hudson's Bay; and the remainder in a south -earterly course, through the St. Lawrence valley, and along the Blue Eidge around to the Mississippi, where it would mingle with the original stream. The current of polar ice and water flowed down the St. Lawrence and Hudson valleys, and mingling with tlie other stream, gave it this curved direction, and formed an inland bay or sea of gieat dimensions, and consequently a largo extent of shore. This shore, covered up by future deposits of vegetable rejnains and earthy matters, constitutes the Catskill group, or the old red sandstone.
Formed by the disintegration of pnmary anrt metamorjihio rocks, which were vtry micaceous, or hornblende, these sand- stones contain a quantity of iron in the state of red or paoxide. To this mineral the tmge is due, which is fiom th« hghtest shade of red until the iron oxide accumulates in sucn 4uantities as to make the stone almost ore of iron. It is a fact generally occur-
» A TomarkftMp boiilo^i m
Kv h,- Rf-en nn the fnitn o' Jonepti H. tn
Bottlir.iilit. in tin- tnwn i.i Ti
ii.ni)'<cm. It is <-<;s-sli.irp<l (noarlv). rest
)i\r f. ,t 111 .Mnniit, r. an.l ivi-iplis at lens
Notwili.stan.lin^-'itsKn.afw.
i^lii. it niiiv lie i-.n-kcd from wde to side ■
Bomu iu« ablo lo »H it iu nu
>l lull with one hugcrl
GEOLOGY. 21
ling, but not yet acconnted for, that hardly any fossils are fonnd imbedded in stratified rocks in which this peroxide of iron is found ; it usually being in the grey gi-its that fossil remains exist. The red rocks of this series are not homogeneous in character, some strata being more argillaceous than others. Hence the terms used in this report of red shale and red sandrock ; the former "weathering" more rapidly, and splitting up more readily when struck ; the sandrock is closer, harder, more granular, generally of a deeper red, and not decomposing or fracturing so readily.
The following analyses of these two rocks serve to illustrate the difference in their chemical composition :
Red sandstone. Red slmlo.
Moisture and soluble salts 8 7.
Alumina 3 6.77
Peroxide of iron 11 3.
Magnesia LO-l 1.35
Lime 1.32 IM
Quartz and red sand insoluble in acid .... 74 80.31
Loss 74 33
100. 100.
The proportions of peroxide of iron and alumina vary more than the other ingredients in different specimens ; but the alu- mina is always in excess in the shale, and the iron in a few specimens rose up to 21 per cent of the whole mass.
The chocolate-colored griis differ very Uttle from the above matter, the tints being due to a small portion of vegetable matter mixed with the peroxide of iron.
In the grey and gi-een grits the iron is mostly in the condition of rust oxide, the quantity of the metallic oxide being small.
The conglomerates have been formed by action somewhat different from the dissolving and sifting actions which produced the grits. Conglomerates are gravel bound together by cement • — (sometimes a paste of red sand-rock— sometimes of gi'ey grit) — in which the gravel is embedded. These may be formed by the drifting action of cuiTents of water sweeping the pebbles forcibly along, and depositing them in a mud or paste, perhaps of the same origin. The production of beds of conglomerate generally implies shallow bodies of water.
These alternations of gi-ey and red grits with conglomerates occupy the whole surface of Kockland, Bethel, Cochecton, Fre- mont,'Tliompson and Liberty. The quartz portion is the western of Neversink and Fallsburgh.
Seams and layers of fine anthracite are found occasionally between the courses of these strata about Cochecton, at Barry-
22 HISTORY OF BULIilVAN CODNTY.
ville, and through the town of Liberty.* These seams are rarely more than haK au inch thick, and from theii- frequent occun-enee lead to the impression, that by boring a good seam may be reached ; but such impression is enoneous. Tlie coal beds are above the Catskill group. It was tlie shora into which the drift timber was floated. The coal-bearing beds are upon these, and in the basin formed by the decay of the sandstone strata. The ti'aces of vegetable matter in the Catskill gi-oup are too slight to waiTant a belief that any but the smallest traces may be found. The elevated region in Eockland, in the East of Delawai-e and the West of Ulster, are the most probable portions of the State in which coal may be found.t But the examination along the Williwemoc and Little Beaverkill yielded no evidence of coal.
A portion of shale forwarded as coal, removed from one of these seams, aflbrded on incineration —
Volatile matters 16.
Ash 84.
100.
There is an opinion prevalent that these thin seams widen as they pass downward, and excavations have been made with the hope of reaching a good thick vein ; Taut such aji opinion is er- roneous.
These giits occupy all the elevated parts of SulHvau county except the Shawangunk mountain, and in the northern region produce vei"y pictui'esque and romantic scenery. Nothing ciui exceed m beauty and wildness the course of the Beaverkill, iu Eockland, where dense woods, overhanging rocks and beautifully clear and placid water are united together. It is the gi'ey sand- rock which prevails mostly over this town, as at Little Flats, the hiU west of Steele's store. Elk Hill, and Hodge Pond. The greater part of Neversiuk is also capped by the gi-ey giits, and in some places by quartz conglomerate.
At Mutton Hill and at Palen's tannery, in Neversink, the red sand-rock occupies a portion of the surface, and may be seen in the water courses, stratified with the gi-its and conglomerates.
The red shale, or argillaceous sandstone, is spread over a largo Bui-face of Libei-ty, CaUicoon, Fremont and Thompson, as at tho hill on wliich the old Presbyterian church at Liberty stood ; on B. Sherwood's farm and on the Deraarest and Blue hills ; in Falls- bmgh at 0. H. Bush's ; over the Expense Lot, and over the town
* Also in Fallsburgh and Foreatburgh. J. E. Q.
t If coal should be found in workable qnaiilitics in New York, it will undoubtedly be in the high mountain region in the north part of Sullivuu, tlui inst jiar, of Dflawarn, west and northwest parts of Ulster, and the central and enuth part« .'t (In'tne oouutjoe, above tho upper mass of red rocks from one hundred to liv.- ImiHln-.l r.-it.
[Matlier s luports, p. 313.
GEOLoai: 23.
generally. 'Farther south, this argillaceous shale is replaced by a hard sand-rock, which is derived from the wearing down of mica slates, retaining some of the mica stiU imdecomposed. This micaceous sandstone underlays the village of Monticello and the high grounds of the sun-oundiug neighborhood. The red rock of Mon^iceUo is in many places capped by gi'ey grits and con- glomerates to the thickness of twenty-five feet, which stand out like isolated masses, and not, as they really are, portions of what was a continuous bed. Generally speaking, the gi'ey gi-its and conglomerates cover up the red rock and shales. The upper- most of the red rocks contain the hardest and most micaceous beds. The lower ones are soft and shaly. The red hard rooks occupy the county in MonticeUo, and parallel to it, in a line drawn northeast and southeast. For two and a half miles south- erly, the red rocks are those which occupy the greatest surface, when grey grits emerge fi'om below, becoming the suiiace rock, to the vicinity of the Delaware river. . North of Monticello, the red rocks dip under and are covered almost completely by gi'ey hard grits and conglomerate, which generally occupy the county between Monticello and White Lake. In the southern towns, these red sand-rocks and shales do not cover any extensive sm-face, and the chocolate and grey grits, as already stated, generally predominate.
Dynamic forces have produced the high land, as well as the fractures and elevations of the strata. There has been another operation at work which has caused the exposure of rock quite as fi'equently as the upheaving forces. This is the action of de- nudation, or that foi'ce exerted by moving water in passing over land, and by its mechanical force and friction, wearing away deep channels in the rocky strata over which it rolled. This force of moving water has been exerted both by a large body of water which at a former period covered the county, and at a later period by water courses occupying the position and flowing in a direction which corresponds to that of the present streams. It depends on the nature of the rock over which the water runs, what the amount of denudation or abrasion shall be.
The Catskill mountains are themselves splendid examples of denudation, and the phenomena of abrasion may be witnessed in the courses of nearly all the rivers in the county. The Bea- verkill above Big Flats, in Kockland, shows jt remarkably, and the Neversink and the Mongaup exhibit it at several points of their course. A very remarkable uistance is at BridgeviUe, be- low the bridge, where the banks of the river are eighty feet high. On the west side of the river the strata dip, and rise on the east, showing that they were one until by the wearing action of the liver stream it obtained its present level. The strata on each side correspond as follows :
34 HISTORY OF SPLWVAN COUNTY.
1. Greenish sandstone conglomerate with quartz grita;
2. Soft red shale and harder sand-rocks;
3. Hard sand-rock ;
4. Soft red shale ;
5. Grey sand-rock (gi'it) underlaid by quartz conglomerate ;
6. Green grits and slate ;
7. Bed of the river.
This affords one out of many illustrations of the power which moving water, acting tli rough an immensely long period, can exert on even the hardest surfaces ; the whole chasm, from the present bed of the stream to the top of a height of eighty feet, having been worn away by the Neversink river.
This action has been in operation since the count}' has been ■upraised from the sea-bottom upon which the sand-rocks were deposited, and belong to what is termed the modem period. The beds marked 2 and 4 are of soft shale and slate, and de- compose more readily when exposed to the air than the rocka above and below, which proauce the overhanging cliffs and cav- ernous hollows termed ruck-liouses. Wherever these strata are found upheaved, these rock-houses exist, as on the hill near Fallsburgh ; at Fairchild's Pond near Monticello ;* near Beaver
* Alfred B. Street describes this locality very accurately as follows : " A rude wild place. The long and narrow ridgo Enda in a rogi^ed precipice of roik ; A slope botwt-en it and a shallow pond Bristling with withered hemlock and with stumps O'erspotted. A faint narrow road n-inds by. Hero to the village— there, amidst the wooiU Bordered by laurel-thickets, to a glade. A jutting of the rock has formed a nook Along its base. A cedar's giant trunk. Dead, barkless, and stained in spots by fire. From the high bank above has pitched, and Ue» With base upon the summit of the rock. And fractured head upon the bank beneath, A slanting ladder : and within a cleft O'er a huge bulge upon the rugged wall. Are birchen bushes, Uke green hanging plnmee In a gigantic helmet. At one spot Within the nook, the bick is hollowed ont. Shaping a scat. Naught is there to declare ■Whether by freak of Nature or by man This shelf was scoop'd. Upon the fissured sides, And the smooth slate that, laid in scales, compose This little terrace, names and letters rude Are graven. With the massive roof above Spotted by lichen-scales, and looking out On the quiet pond, with its deep liackground woods, Here have I sat in summer afternoons Wat<?hing the long slim shadows of the trees Slow orei'ping towards me-, the rich halo'd sun Melting ihe outlines of the forest tops. Where it imj-wnded. In the hours of Spring, When th>- dsmp softened atmosphere proclaim'd The coming rain to beat the frost from out The t-.rpi.l earth, so that its lap might smile Atiiiiu with flowers, here also have I sat Ar.d listened to the voices of the poud.
GEOLOGY. 25
Broolv, in Lumberlancl, and in nnmcrotis oilier pla,ces in tho ■county.
In Fallsburgh, one of the creel;s cuts through the red and grey sandstones, and the vn,lley in which the creek lies is a valley of denudation, the strata being exposed on each side, and the dip not exceeding eight degi-ees. In the valloy of the water channel on each side of the stream, at some distance up, is a well marked layer of stones, showing the existence of a former water channel of greater dimensions than the present. Probably the whole was the bottom of a wide stream, on the sides of which these stream stones were arrested by the slowness of the current.
Underneath the red grits, sliales, and conglomerates, exists a series of beds of rock genernlly termed greywacke, and claesed in the New York Survey as the Erie group or division. These also are sandstone. They arc highly indurated and of a green- ish grey or dark color. Shales and i-latos of a similar character accompany the sandstones. The dip of these is W. N. W. These rocks occupy the southern part of the county, and are best seen in Mamakating valley. They run from the Delaware river through Lumborland west of Mongaup into the Mamakating valley, of which they form the northwest side, running parallel to the Delaware and Hudson canal, and towtirds Kingston, in Ulster county. The upper beds of the Erie division are termed the Chemung group, and occur in distinct courses, with an in- finite variety of structure, and numerous fossil remains. The sories, when exposed to the weather, passes into a brownish ohve, ■which forms the external appearance of all these slates, that even then are internally of the deepest green. There is a tendency to conglomerate in the upper licds. The lower beds of the Erie division are cnlled the Ilamilton group. In Sullivan county, those two subdivisions arc not very distinct, and in this report may be classed together. They both difi'er from the Catskill, or ol I red sandstone divis'on, in containing well marked evidences of land plants as fossil remains — obscure species which have not received sufHcient attention. The green and olive shales are loaded with imjiressions of si rophomcna, ddlhjris and atryra. The great indestnxctibility of this group of rocks gives a peculiar aspect to the surface. A series of terraces upon the hills about Beaver Brook, in Lumberland, and a similar appearance in Mamakating indicate the Erie rocks. A fine section of these may be obtained along the Erie railroad fiom Narrow-^buigh
Those Rwcot prophwioa of warmer hoars. Kinging like mvriad tiny silver bolls Cheerfully on th«^ car." * * »
Big Tlo«k, BR this singular precipice is nailed, wag one* a favorite reprrt of the In. habitants of Monticello. It \a now the terminus of the MonticeUo and P' rt Jervis Bailroad. 3. £. Q.
26 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
south, anJ along the Delawai'e and Hudson canal. In the latter place the strata dip N. W. about 15 ° . In the gieen shales par- tial faults may be observed, and in some places the strata are bent, or arched upwards. This arching up of the strata is well marked at the 101 niile post on the railroad, and still better on the Pennsylvania bank of the Delaware rivei-, opposite the canal, three-fourths of a mile east of Ban-yviUe. The cracks and faults, and the arching of the rocks are produced by subter- ranean elevating forces, which have been excited very stjongly in the south part of the county.
Where full exjDosures of this group are made, there is discov- ered a good bed of Hag-stones, or thick splittiag slate, averaging twenty-eight inches thick, Ijing upon a soft crambling shale, and covered by a slaty gi-it, having well marked lamina of deposition in them. ' These 'tiag-stones ci-op out ia several places, and are occasionally used in building. They have been quarried some- what extensively iu Mamakatmg west of Wuitsborough.* These flag-stones are of good quality generally.
At Griffin's quan-y, seven miles soxith of Wuiitsborough, and three miles from the canal, the same stones are raised. They are also exposed ia the beds of the Mongaup and the ISeversink rivers.
On the Sandburgh creek, a little west of Eed Eidge, the Junc- tion of the Erie and Catskill groups is discoverable ; and in the lower bed of the former, or the upper bed of the latter, (for they are not easily distinguished,) are the reinains of a shaft where an opening had been made in the expectation of meeting coal. The shaft is now filled up, and thd lower stones which were taised may be found on the side of the road. The rock is a dark shale, full of vegetable matter, and loaded with ijupressions of fossil plants. No coal seam of sufficient thickness was thscov- ered, and the work was abandoned. There are appearances in this locahty which would encourage expectation for coal. These beds of rock generally dip to the north and west at a much gi-eater angle than the Catskill series, and partake of the dis- turbance of the southern part of the county, which has upturned all the rocks of the Mamakating valley to a nearly vertical position.
Along the Sandburgh creek, west of the county Hne, the Che- mung group may be well stutlied by the geologist. For all practical purposes the Erie division possesses but httle interest, yielding only the bed of slate alluded to.
The Helderberg chvision consists of a series of limestones of various chemical composition, with beds of slate and slaty giits.
* Tliev are altio found in Falleburgb, Foiestburi'li, Luuiberloud, Tusten and High- land. J.E.Q.
GEOLOGY. 27
The limestones generally occupy the lowest beds. They consti- tute a great natural gi'oup, and are so well develoiDcd in the Helderberg mountains as to receive from thence their name. In Sullivan county they emerge from under the Chemung group of the Erie division, and occupy the gieater portion in breadth of the valley of Mamakating. They dip at a very high angle. The upper beds are covered by the drift in the valley. The limestones are only slightly elevated al)ove the canal, under which they dip W. N. W., at an angle of 55^ and 63°. A short distance east of Wurtsborough, the hmestone rises out of the canal, and forms the mountain bench. It is here composed of two distinct kinds; the one a shaly, soft, decomposing rock — the other a hard, compact stone of a dark bluish color. At Carpenter's Point, on the Delaware river, the position and char- acter of the entire series may be studied more readily than at any place in the county of Sulhvan, where they are almost com- pletely hidden. The portions exposed belong to the water-hrao gr-oup described by Mr. Mather in the New York Survey, Vol. IV., p. 349.
In the valley north of Wurtsborough, they can only be ex- amined, as the}- sink down and are covered by tlie deposits of drift. The stone has been quarried and used as building stone and for burning, for which some of the courses only are adapted. The strata are but a few feet thick and, from proximity to the canal, cannot be advantageously worked.
The chemical composition of the hard blue rock is as follows :
Carbonate of Hme 93.
Sand and vegetable matter ; 2.
Alumma and peroxide of iron '3.
Magnesia 73
Earthy phosphates 13
Soluble saline matters 1.1-i
100.00 The proportion of alumina in this rock prevents it fr-om form- ing good dry mortar lime ; but by proper treatment in burning and mixing, it would make good hydraulic moi-tar. The comments made in the Report of Seneca coimty on the Maniius water-hme- stone are applicable here.
There are no other beds of lime-rock in this county except those 01 the Mamakating valley. Boulders of this rock, howeverj are discovered in nearly every town.
Ontario Division. — This contains two varieties of rock very •well defined in SuUivan county. They are immediately beneath the last described rocks, whence they rise up to a considerable
ao HISTORY OP SULLIVAN COUNTY.
elevation, forming the base of the north and western slopes of the Shawangnnk hills. The varieties are
1. Tlie p■^Titons stratum ;
2. The Shawangnnk giit or conglomerate.
1. The first rock is a comparatively thin layer of qnartz rock, loaded with crystals of p;>Tites, (sulphuret of iron). It varies very mnch in its textnre, being, east of Wurtsborongh and to- ward the county line, a wliitish, compact qnartz stone (in the interior of a mass) with pyrites. Sonth of the \illage, it becomes a red rock, the pyrites ha\'ing passed into the state of red oxide, and the hard natnrt^ of the rock is replaced by a softer shale. In other cases it is granular, and resembles a red sandstone. Crossing the mountain on the plank road fi-om Wurtsborongh to Middietown, this bed is met with at the 11 mile post, and is about twelve feet thick. It is here a hard, compact quartz rock, dipping at an angle of 60^ "W. S. W. In the neighborhood of the "Montgomery mine," it is a chocolate-colored, soft, slaty- sandstone; and at the "new mine," two miles south of Wurts- borongh, it presents the appearance of a gi-eenish grey grit. Exposed to the air, it becomes red, and where it is not a sand- stone, the gi-adual oxidation of the pyrites rusts the rock to the depth of an inch.
2. The Shawangnnk grit or conglomerate is described by Matlier as a rock which "varies in textnre fi-om a conglomerate to a fine-grained grit, and is almost entirely silicious. It is gen- erally white or light grey in color ; but there is one bed near the upper part of its mass which is red. Most of the layers of the rock are very hai'd. Some are sandy and others slaty. Its col- ors are white, grey, greyish, reddish-white and brick-red." This covers the whole" northern side of the mountain, dipping at variable angles toward the north-wost and west. In many places, the dip is 60"; in others, 50', and diminishes to 30". The thickness varies in diiTerent parts of the range, being in some
E laces apparently four liundred feet, diminishing do-\vn to one undred and fifty feet. On the Wurtsborongh and Blooming- burgh plank road, it approaches three hundred feet in thickness.
This rock is not used in this county for any economical pur- pose, although in other counties it is used in building, and for grindstones. While it presents so narrow a breadth, its length is remarkable. Traces of this conglomerate are discernible in Vermont, east of Whitehall, and in Western Massachusetts, and with the Shawangnnk, it passes into New Jersey and Pennsyl- vania.
As this constitutes one of the most important beds of the Shawangnnk range, though not by any means a large amount
of the total hill elevation, it may be desirable here to allxide to the wliole chain of hills as a unity.
The Shawangunk hills extend from the New Jersey line to near Wawarsing, in Ulster county, vihere they sink down, and are lost. In New Jersey, they may be traced into the Blue Mountains, and from that State pnss into Pennsylvania, Mary- land and Vuginia. The rocks are upraised in what is termed an anticlinal axis, or in the form of an inverted V, (a), the strata being broken and bent away from each other. The range in Sullivan county attains at its highest point 1007 f ^et above the sea level, which is in the north-east part of Mamakatmg. The dip of the strata varies from 30 ' to 57 ^ to W. N. W., and the direc- tion of the range is generally N. E. and S. W. There is very little disturbance or fractm-e of the strata in the county. Far- ther east, in Ulster, the breaks are well marked.
The great body or mass of the mountain is Hudson river slate, a rock whose color passes fi-om light gi'ey into black, and is sometimes soft and shaly, while in other places it is hard and fit for quan-yiag as building stone. It is a well marked strati- fied rock, and by the many curves and contortions wliich it pre- sents, it shows what forces it has been subjected to. It constitutes the basis or lowest rock of the mountain range, and is not visible on the northern side of the hill. On passing over the Wurtsbor- ough and Bloomiugburgh plank road, toward the summit of the hill, near the 10 mile post, it comes into view as a bed of shale, very fi-iable, dark colored, fuU of fractures, and about twenty feet thick. As the road descends, the shale passes into a harder rock, and tlie rest of the mountain downward on its east side is made up of alternations of shale and hard rock. '
This Hudson river slate is continued from the base of the hill into Orange county, forming the surface rock of that portion of Sullivan south of the hills. In the low land, the elevation of the strata is but slight, and but Uttle facihty exists for the water of the soU above to escape through the strata. Hence in many
S laces the land becomes water-logged, and gives rise to the pro- uction of rashy herbage, moss and bog. Some of the courses afford good furnace stones, and some a good building stone. The beds in the county do not afford any roofing slate.*
The thickness of the Hudson slate gioup is about eight hun- di'ed feet. Upon it, on the western side, rests the Shawangunk gi'it, which Ues conformably upon it. Near the summit of the hills, the grit in some places hes nearly horizontal, and presents, to the south, perpendicular cliff's of white rock,
* X hod of tliiB Riate is found at Pleasant Lake, in tho town of Thompson. It is from fifteen to thirty fet't thiolt, and is overlaid by red sliaio and gi'ey Baud-ruck. It is be- Keved that it will afford good roofing slate. J. E. Q. .
30 HISTORY OF SITLLIVAN COUNTY.
from forty to two hundred feet high. This is overlaid by the pyi-itiferous stratum, M'hich is better developed in the northern part of the valley.
The whole range is intersected by metalhferous veins. The neighborhood is fuU of traditions of Indians obtaining both lead and silver in abundance, and at so many points of the range, that it is looked upon as a bed of ores of undisputed ricliness.* It is with that portion of the range -n-ithin the limits of the countj^ that it is the office of this report to treat ; and it is very important that clear notions of the quantity and value of ore in the county should be rightly held, seeing that efforts are made by unusutil means to create false notions of the mineral condi- tion of the county.
The New York Geological Survey describes very accurately the Shawanguuk mine, situated in this county, on the mountain range. At the time that survey was made (1843), and for a long time after, this was the only opening made into the range in Sullivan county. Very lately, new adits have been attempted both north and south of that point. This mine is now termed the "Montgomery Mine," as belonging to the New York & Montgomery Mining Company. It lies north-east of Wurts- borough about two miles, and eight hundred feet above the canal level. Dr. Mather's description (Vol. IV., p. 360), is nearly that of its j^resent condition, and is as follows :
"The vein, in many places, has tjie aspect of a bed parallel to the contiguous strata of the grit rock of the mountain ; but from a careful examination, it is believed to be a true vein which runs between the sti'ata, and then cuts obliquely across them, without altering its dip in any great degi-ee. The stratum of the vein corresponds nearly to that of the grit rock, but its aggre- gate dip is greater. The strata were o1>served to be more or less broken and bent, where the vein, after passing between them, crossed them obliquely. The grit rock on the mountain near the mine is traversed by small veins of quartz, which is more or less porous from the decomposition of its contained minerals. The vein on which the mine is worked, varies from two to five feet in width ; and the larger portion of its mass, as far as has been explored, is a silicious rock similar to that forming the roof and
* There is a Iradition that l<-ad ore also exists in the old town of Lumberland. Jacob Quick, a gentleman of undoubted respectability, (now dead), informed the writer that Tom Quick, about the year 1794, told him that, while setting a trap, heloundit neces- eary to remove some earth from a spring, and came upon a tine vein of ere; and that he had since obtained the greater part of his lead from this source, as the discoverer could expect to reap but little more advantage from it, he promised to show our informant the locality, and appointed ft day for that purpose; but before the appointed time, the old man was taken sick, and was never afterwards able to go from tho house in which he lived.
The location of this mine oorrespondB almost exactly with that of the lead mine aino» dlBoovered near Elleoville. [See Mather's Report, page 358.
GEOT.or.v. 31:
floor, except that it contains fragments and particles of greenish and blackish slate. The vein stone is more or less loaded with blende, galena, copper pyrites, iron pjTites and crystahzed quartz. The blende and galena constitute rtrohaUy forty-nine- fiftieths of the metalUferous contents of the vein, and these minerals are in general more or less intimately mixed.
" Tlie metalliferous part of the vein is from one to three feet thick in some parts ; in others, it nan-ows to a thin, almost lin- ear seam ; in some places, the lead ore, in others, the zinc ore Eredominates. The ore, as an aggregate, may be said to lie in unches, and the prodiictiveness of different points of the vein is very variable. Wlien exammiug the mine, three masses of galena, fi-ee from other ores and from gangue, were i.aken out of the mine, weighing about 800, 1000, and 1400 pounds.
" This mine is said to have been originally discovered by a hunter,* and the first opening was made some forty or fifty feet from the present shaft of the mine. It was worked from the outcrop of the vein to a depth of about thirty feet, and some tons of lead ore were taken from the mine. T''his opering was abandoned in consequence of the thinning of the metallilerous part of the vein, and the difficulty of raising the ore through an in-egular and sloping shaft. A vertical shaft was in process of excavation at the time of my first Aasit in 1837, and it had reached the vein at that tim'e. Lateral galleries have since been driven on the course of the vein. An adit level was driven
* The pioneers of Mamakating knew that the Indians obtained their lead not iuT from Wiirtsborough. The natives alwa\B refused to show where it was to be found; and generally became angry wlienever the mine was alluded to. Even the white men who were in'jjart or wholly domesticated with them, could not get any information from them in regard to it. At last, a white hunter named<Miller dogged them, at the risk of his life, until he ascertained that they got the ore near a certain clump of hemlock trees, which were the only ones of the Kind within a considerable distance. He heard them at work ; but did iiot dare to go to the locality until a considerable time aft( rwards, when he was sure the savages were not in tbe vicinity. Miller intended to show the mine to a man named Daniel Gonsalns. He told him the lead was on the mountain, near the liemlocks, pointed them out from the valley, and promised to go with him to the mine after he had paid a visit to his friends in Orange county. He went, but died at Montgomery during his visit there. Gonsalus never attempted to profit bv what MiUer had told him. In 1813, however, he communicated what he knew of" the matter to Daniel Niven, who, in 1817, hired a man named Mudge tc assist him in searching for the load, snd they succeeded in finding it. Specimens of the ore wore sent to Doctor Mitchell, and otliers, chemists. Mr. Niven made a confi- dant of Moscs Stanton, a resident of Wurlsborough, who, as well as Mudge, insisted »ipon sharing the profits which were expected to be made from the discovery, and the three became partners. Not long after, those who had analyzed the ore endeavored to purchase the mine of Mr. Niven and his associates. But the discoverers iound & difficulty in the way of selling. The land did not belong to them, and they could not ascertain who (Jid own it. They eould not buy the mine nor sell it. So the matter rested until 1836— Mr. Niven and his partners mutually agreeing not to make any disclosure concerning the matter, unless with the consent of all three. Their Bccrot, howev( c, was revealed after it had been kept for almost twenty years. Stanton had an awkward habit of dreaming while asleep, and one night, wliile his eyelids were closed, Bpoke (if the mine and its location so distinctly that his son, who was present, had no difficulty in finding it. Young Stanton was so fortunate as to ascertain who some of the owners were, and to make five hundred dollars by keeping his cars open, "liile hit father was "dreaming aloud 1 " J. E. Q.
32 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COL'NTY.
perpendicular to the 'strike of the vein through the intervening strata of grit rock, fii■ty-t^\■o feet below the month of the shaft, so as to intersect the vein at tlie distance of about two hundred feet from the main shaft. Galleries have been excavated latterly on the course of the vein fi-om the extremity of the adit, and the southern one of these has been connected with the shaft. This atlit and the contiguous galleries serve as a drainage level for the upper portions of the mine. Another adit level has been driven into the mountain, so as to intersect the vein at a per- pendicular depth of seventy-five feet below the other, and the main shaft is continuous fi-om this intersection, sloping up the course of the vein, to where this inclined shaft unites with the vertical one at the upper tier of the galleries. Lateral galleries have been excavated on the course of the vein from the sides of the inclined part of the main shaft, and it was in these that the miners were employed at the time of my visit.
"The ore is slidden down the inclined shaft to the lower adit level, whence it is removed to the ore heaps o)>posite this level. It is there picked and washed, and then sent to the smelting house on the bank of the canal, which, by the winding course of the road, is about a mile or a mile and a quarter."
From a personal inspection in May, 1852, the following were the particulars of this mine. It has an entrance by an adit opened upon the side of the mountain, nearly eight hundred feet above the canal level. To reach the vein of ore, the strata, were pierced through sixty yards. The strike of the range is E. N. E. by W. S. W., with a dip varying fiom 35 'to 50= to the N. AV. The vein runs parallel to the strike, and nearly parallel ^^•^th the strata. When reached by boring to the above stated depth, it was found to vary in thickness from eighteen inches to four feet. About one hundred feet above the adit level, the ore crops out on the surface, a few inches in thickness, mixed Avith considera- ble gangue. The gangue stone is quartz, which intersects the vein, largely cutting it up and rendering it in some places too poor to wm-k. The rock through which the adit is bored is the Shawanguuk grit. At the inner extremity of the adit, a gallery has been extended at right angles to the adit, or in the line of the strike, thus following the couise of the ore. It was stated that but little ore had been raised for the last six years, and the spots where the blastings were made were filled with water. The richest samples of ore taken at that period were said to be from spots now flooded. At the pit's mouth, there was a heap of sorted ore, and at some distance, a larger heap of finely powdered ore. The whole quantity did not exceed seventy tons. Within the mine, little was going on, cither in draining or blasting. Snielt- ing. fuiuacea were then being erected at a great cost, and the
GEOLOGY. 33
extent of these seemed greatly incoiiiineusurate with the quan- tity of ore on hand, or even in the vein.
The ore is zinc blende (sulphuret of zmc) associated with galena and copper pyrites, tJie gangne stone quai'tz intersecting it in threads and crystals. The gangue varies from fifteen to fifty per cent, of the sorted ore.
The gangue is separable from the ore by crushing and sifting. When separated, the pure ore consists of
Lead 20.432
Zinc 15.G72
Iron 6.G00
Copper 300
42.004 in 100 parts.
These were associated with sulphur, and may be looked on as blende, galena and pyrites associated. The copper is present in so trifling an amount as not to be regarded practically. Aix examination was made to determine the presence of silver asso- ciated with the lead ore; but the result, while it showed the presence of that metal', did not warrant the behef that any could be profitably extracted. This vein, then, is one of mixed zinc and lead ores ; for of the other metals, (silver and copper) there is but a trifling amount, and the kon is a positive impediment in the reduction. There is a practical difficulty in separating galena and blende so as to preserve both metals. Either the zinc or the lead is sacrificed in obtaining the other metal.
The ordinary ores of zinc are the carbonate, the sulphuret and the oxide. Tlie first yields fi'om 25 to 40 per cent. ; the second 66 per cent. ; and the last 75 per cent, of pure metal. The first two are the chief European ores ; the latter is tlie one worked at Frankhn and SterHng, in New Jersey. The ore of the Montgomery Mine, considered as a zinc ore, is inferior to aoiy of those recounted. It is similarly situated as a lead ore. The chief lead ore of this or any country is galena, (sul- phuret,) which yields when pure 86 per cent, of metal, or more than four times the quantity which this ore, ivhen free from gangue, could yield ; so that this ore may be looked upon as a
!)oor zinc and a stiU poorer lead ore. It has to be fi'eed from a arge amount of gangue, and to obtain the lead out of it, tlie zinc will have to be bui-ned off; to obtain the zinc, the lead will have to be sacrificed.
Many attempts have been made to adopt processes whereby it might be possible to obtain both metals without loss ; but without success on the large scale.
The New York and Montgomery Mining Company, in a pam- phlet put forward by them, allude to a process of Mr. Seymoiir, (the chemist to the works at the mine) whereby this obstacle 3
34 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
•was overcome. It does not appear, however, that it ever was put in practice upon large quantities, and acted economically. The same pamphlet gives an analysis of the ore as containing zinc 30 per cent., lead 20 per cent., copper 5 per cent., and silver one-tenth of one per cent.
" In addition to the above, the cobalt produced fi-om the ore, being of the purest kind, will probably equal in value any of the above named metals."
This statement led to a renewed analysis of the ore without detecting more than a faint trace of cobalt in one mm]->le. Some samples of the ore contain more galena and less blende, and vice versa ; but even taking the above as an average sample of ore which is mixed with from 15 to 50 per cent, of gangue, upon the showing of the Company's pamphlet, it is impossible to ob- tain either zinc or lead, or the preparations of these metals, at prices which tvould remunerate the outlay.
For some time back, the sorted and ground ore has been smelted, and the zinc and lead separated, and by the processes of chemical decomposition (in the moist way) oxide of zinc, chloride of zinc and other preparations of that metal, chromate and otlier salts of lead, and cobalt, are prepared to the extent of a few tons weekly, and sent to the city of New York, where its ar- rival has served to keep up the price of the Company's stock, and f acihtate sales ; biat if the manufacture of these substances were intended as a remunerative speculation, they would have been abandoned before now. No individual manufacturer, seeking profit, would ever adopt the processes carried on in the factory at the mine ; and in a short time, even the present operations must abruptly terminate.*
The existence of good lead mines and zinc ores in this country, ■where these metals may be obtained cheaply, prevents a mixed ore, whose preparations require a costly mode of separation, from being brought into competition with them ; and when it is considered that even the New Jersey zinc ore can with difficulty compete with the English and Belgian zinc in its own market, it is manifest that the poor ore of the Shawangimk cannot vent- ure into competition.
What has been stated of the Montgomery ore and manufact- tire, is true of miniu" in Sullivan county generally. The vein of ore which extends from EllenATlle by' Bed Bridge and Wurts- borough, passes along parallel to the strike of the hills, and may be traced on the summit of the range to the western border of the county, and owing to the operations carried on at the Mont- gomery mine, various openings have been made by companies and individuals to reaoh the same vein at other places. The
* The subsequent history of this mine fully verifies this prediction. J. E. Q.
belief that the vein would -widen at lower levels, (probable,) and that it wonld be a richer ore farther west, (improbable,) has led to a false estimate of the value of the ore, and of the locality as a place for investment of capital ; and the excitement in the Mamakating valley has been unduly kept up by interested parties. There is not a workable mine in this county ; nor is there any mineral or ore which can be abundantly or profitably extracted. The manganese which is scattered over the whole extent, and occurs disseminated tlirough layers of the shale and shaly lime- stone, is too earthy and impure to compete with that from other States. The anthracite which exists in the shale at the Sand- burgh, and the half inch seam in Liberty, and which farther west is cut tlirough by the Delaware, and washed down to where it accuml^lates in beds, at the bending of the river at Cochecton and elsewhere, is just sufficient to delude the unwary. The oxide of iron which accumulates in the sandstone at some places, as near Parksville, is sufficient to render the stone convertible into a mineral paint ; but does not constitute a workable ore. The building and flag-stones, and the extensive deposits of brick clay which occur in every town, are the only mineral wealth of the county.
Drift. — In every northern latitude on this continent, as far south as 40 " , there are found spread over the country, beds of clay, sand and gravel, accompanied with large loose stones, generally of rounded form. The beds of clay, sand and gravel, have been earned and deposited by currents of water running in a dii-ection north and south, generally fi-om the north-west to the south-east, and the loose stones or boulders may have been carried by similar means, or stranded and melted fi-om ice. Sullivan county, at some remote period, was the bed of an arm of the sea, which extended fi'Om the Lakes to the Atlantic ocean, by the Delaware and Chesapeake channels. Of coiirse, in the deepest portions, the current would be strongest, and the most earthy matters transported and deposited ; and hence it is, that in the valleys we find the drift best marked. The soil of Mam- akating valley is altogether of drift, and along its whole course, the conditions of the current which deposited the material may be distinctly traced. Sometimes the sand and gravel are in distinct layers ; sometimes mixed, depending upon the amount of sifting action of the tidal cuiTent. The direction also varies sKghtly. Thus at Fraser's sand hill, in Monticello, the direc- tion is N. N. E. and S. S. W. The south-west end of the hiU is fine sand, wliUe on the north-west it is rounded gravel, showing the direction of tlie cuiTent to be from north to south.
Li Lumberland, the sand and gravel hills along the Delaware have a parallel direction.
36 HISTOKY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
The boulders of Rockland and Neversink are chiefly grey sand-rock and conglomerate, the lamina of deposit on the former i-endering them easily distinguishable. In Liberty, grey grit boulders are extensively distributed about Parksville, with some red sand-rock and a white conglomerate resembHng that of Shawangunk. In Rockland and Liberty, the silieious limestone containing manganese (refeiTed to under the head of Economi- cal Geology,) is met with very commonly. In Thompson, in the northern part, the quartz conglomerate prevails to south of Thompsonville. It covers the surface at Lord's pond, and on the BaiTens generally, where grey grits and slate are also int«r- spersed. About BridgeviUe, they are mixed in with the sand and gi-avel hills on the bank of the river.
In the Mamakating valley, the farther north and east gener- ally, the drift-sand is fine. At Phillips Port, it passes into fine sand and gravel, which he along the base of the hills on either side, the direction being generaUy E. N. E. and W. S. W. The whole west side of the vaUey is filled up ^dth it. The drift is spread ever the east side of Shawangunk, and is mixed in with the soil derived from the slate.
The boulders of the Mamakating valley are composed of the rocks of the mountain in the neighborhood, mingled with the northern drift.
In this valley, the bones of the mastodon and fossil elephant were found in digging the DelaAvare & Hiidson canal, in a peat bog, between Red Bridge and Wurtsborough.
The whole vaUey is interesting as showing the efi'ects of drift ; its mode of deposit ; and the groo\'ing or scratching on the hill- sides, caused by the passage over them of mo^^ng ice, containing impacted stones. The facts in this connection, communicated to Silhman's Journal, Vol. XXIII., p. 43., by WilKam A. Thompson, of Thompsonville, are interesting. They are as follows :
***** "I have examined this part of the State A^-ith considerable care, and have found that in more than fifty difi'er- ent places where I have seen the soHd strata, the gi-ooves and fun-ows appear fi-om an inch to one-fourth of an inch deep, and from one-fourth of an inch to three and four inches wide ; and in some cases they run due north, and in every direction fi-om north to twenty-five degi'ees south of east. I have found them also in the bo'ttoms of cellars, in excavations made in digging wells, and where the earth has been removed bv making roads, and in many instances where I have uncovered the sohd rock for the purpose of observing the efi'ects of the diluvial action. I have paid some attention to this subject while traveling in the Eastern States, and I could find none of the furrows ; but the
GEOLOGY. 37
solid stratum appears to be %vorn very smooth by attrition, by the motion of some bodies smaller and less solid than those which have produced the distinct traces in this part of the State of New York.
" It may be proper to remark first, that Sullivan county is bounded south and west by the Delaware river ; north by Dela- ware and Ulster counties, and east by Orange ; that the county lies on the easterly part of the Aileghany range of mountains, and that the mean altitude of the country is on a level \\ith the highlands below Newbiu-gh — about one thousand five hundred feet above the tide water ; that this level is continued westerly through Sullivan county and the State of Pennsylvania, from the Shongham mountain to tlie Susquehannah river; that a space of above fifty miles wide of this level lies, continuously, in the Alleghany range, until you come to mountains of a great height, on the west side of the Susquehannah ; that the depth of the earth above the solid rock gradually and regularly in- creases fi'om Shongham mountain to the Susqiiehannah ; that the average depth of earth in Sullivan county is not more than twenty-five feet, nor more than thirty-five through the State of Pennsj'lvania ; that the range of the Kattskill mountain bounds the north part of Sullivan ; that south of this space of fifty miles the altitude of the mountains considerably increases ; in this in- termediate space it appears that tops of the ridges had been dilapidated by mighty force, and that the current had pressed easterly, and often times canied large pieces of rock to a con- siderable distance, say from fifty to two hundred rods, and if the fragments are of very considerable size they always rest on the soHd strata. In many instances, sections of the strata were broken out and raised by the violence of the current and left on the tops of the highest hills ; I have seen an instance where a rock twenty feet square has been carried half a mile on the level surface of the strata that are covered about three feet vnth. earth, and there left in that position ; the violence of the current having ceased to effect its farther removal fi-om its original position.
"The upper strata of the whole section of the country before the deluge, appear to have been composed of a common grey sandstone covering the surface of the rock from twelve to twenty- four inches thick. This seems to have been the last marine foiTuation ; it is full of fissures and cracks, being broken into small angular pieces by the first violent surges of the deluge, and now scattered on the surface of the ground.
" The next lower strata are pudding stone, filled with quartz and feldspar and other primitive minerals ; its parts are gener- ally water-worn and are from the size of a robin's to that of a hen's egg. The next rock underneath is ihe old red sandstone.
do fflSTORY OF SULLIYAN COUNTY.
which is universally found in the bottoms of the valleys ; on the tops however of the highest hills the red clay slate is univers- ally found, and for eighty or ninety miles west, gives a reddish color to all the soils of the country, and passes southerly through New Jersey and Pennsylvania.
" The valleys in this section of countiy uniformly run from north to south, are in many instances fi'om ten to twelve hundred feet deep, and are the beds of the large streams. The lesser valleys are covered with pieces of red and grey sandstone of a convenient size for making fences. The most free and feasible land is always found on the tops, and on the eastern sides of the hills, the western sides being uniformly steep and broken. The whole of the earth or soil appears to have been removed from the soU strata at the deluge, and most, if not all the upper strata of sandstone, were then broken up. A small portion of the pudding-stone was also broken up in large square blocks, and occasionally pieces of the old red sandstone were detached from the bottom of the valleys. It is probable that previous to the deluge there was httle or no soil on this section of the coun- try, that the liills, valleys and streams were the same previous to the deluge that they are at this time, excepting that the hills were dilapidated and lowered, and the deep valleys were made still deeper by the tremendous cataracte and surges, the water being carried violently over the high ledges and hills and then, in crossing the ridges fi-om west to east, faUing ten to twelve hundred feet into the valleys. While contemplating such a scene, our imagination must fall infinitely short of the reality. The sin- gle wave tliat totally destroyed the port town of Lima, or the surge that ovei-whelmed the Turkish fleet in Candia, comes nearer to the terrific scene than any similar events that are recorded.
" That these large masses of rocks shoidd be broken up and tin-own upon the tops of high hills will appear in no way sur- prising when we consider what must be the effect of the precip- itation of the cataracts into deep valleys and of their sub-sequent violent reflux over the high hills ; a power more than suflicient to raise the large masses of rock that were left on the high grounds in the country.
" That water has the power to carry rocks and other heavy- bodies over the tops of mountains, is evinced by the simple fact, that the only place where the millstone is found withm two hundred miles, is at Kizerack, on the west side of Shongliam mountain, fifteen or twenty miles fi-om Esopus or Kingston, up the Kondout Kill. At this place, all the country or Esopus millstones are sold. Now over a great part of the west side of Shongliam mountain, which is composed of tlie millstone-grit, this rock has been carried to the height of ten or twelve hundred feet, so as to pass over the top of the mountain, and it lies scat-
GEOLOGY. 39
tered through the country for many miles east, between New- burgh and Shongham mountain, and as there is no other similar stone within two hundred miles, this is conclusive evidence that the violence of the surge carried the rocks over the top of the mountain and left them in the position in which we now see them ; some of the stones weigh from three to four tons.
"Professor Eaton, in his geological survey of the KattskUl or Alleghany, says that all the eastern slope of the Alleghany is capped or protected by the millstone-grit, but what he called the miUstone-gi-it, I caU the conglomerate, or pudding-stone; both are formed in part of quartz, but in the true miUstone-grit, the fine parts are formed by abrasion of the quartz only, while common sand mixed with globular pieces of quartz, forms what he calls the millstone-grit of the Alleghany range.
" I have never been able to find any grooves or furrows, on the west side of the hills and ridges in the county; nothing appears but the traces and breaches where the rocks have been torn up by some violent agent. It very rarelj- happens that any traces can be found on the red argillaceous sandstone ; it is not sufficiently solid to sustain the force of heavy bodies moving in contact with it, although in some instances the gi'ooves appear for fifteen or twenty feet, and then the strata are rough or broken, but the traces are mostly on the sohd pudding-stone, and the common giey sandstone which remained solid and unbroken at the deluge. In those cases where the old red sandstone appears, if the slojje or side of the hill faces the north, I have seen three or four instances in which the furrows run in that direction for half a mile, and on meeting a ridge of rocks in the low grounds, the furrows turned due east, and after passing the obstniction, again turned north-east or east. Not a mile from the same place, on descending from the same high gi-oiind, the furrows run east, tally iug with the face of the hill. On the high lands west of the Shongham, and where there could be no obsti-uction for seventy or eighty mUes, I examined ten or twelve different places in which the lurrows were deep and distinct, and found them to rim from ten or twelve degrees north of east, and they continued in the same direction for a considerable dis- tance down the mountain ; at no great distance to the south, the furrows tended twenty-five degrees soiith of east, leading to a low opening in the Shongham mountain, through which the currents of water naturally ran. I have rarely examined the strata below the decomposing effects of fi-ost, without discovering distinct traces of diluvial action. Near the banks of streams, I hardly ever found any such marks, but the sohd strata appeared broken and very Uttle altered by attrition. In one place where the earth was removed and where there was no visible obstacle to alter the current of water, the furrows crossed each other, show-
40 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
ing that the current took a new direction, after the first furrows were made. About twelve or foui-teen miles west of Newbiu-gh, I found the marks on the soUd grajAvacke to run nearly north and south. At Coxsakie, in Greene count}-, in digging a well and coming to the solid strata, the furrows ran northerlv and southerly about in the direction of the mountain. I'^found that in "different places, between thirty and forty miles apart, the fuiTOWS ran about ten degrees north of east, especially where the current had a free course for any considerable dis- tance wthout any obstacle. "VMiere the solid strata remained, but a part has been removed by some powerful agent.
" On examination, I have found, that the corners of rock have been worn off by abrasion from eighteen to twenty-four inches, and that the furrows made on the rocks by the abrasion of hard substances, were very distinct, although the edges of rock were rounded. This fact is of fi-equent occurrence. On the high land, as well as on the low, the fuiTows appear near small streams, in every possible situation, showing, -vvithout a doubt, that the rivers and hiUs remain now as they were before the flood. Pieces of the sohd strata with the fuiTows on them, are often found where part of the strata was broken up after the fun-ows were made, but more of the argiUite than of any other rock appears in fi-agments. It was supposed that these grooves were made by the Indians, before the settlement of the country by the white people. Large fragments of rocks or boulders are found in every part of the country, which fi-agments, in passing over the siirface of the strata, have doubtless made these fuiTows. Most of them have the corners worn off. There are but few instances in which other stones are found besides the natural strata of the country. In some instances, the stones are composed altogether of sea shells ; in two instances, I have fovmd palm leaves and fems incorpo- rated in the soft gray slate. The soil is much fuller of the small S articles of quartz and feldspar than in Orange county, or in the ew England states. The disintegi-ation produces a fine sand, upon which there rises an abundant growth of pine and hemlock. For three hundred miles to the westward, it is evident that the soil or earth was raised and increased very miich bv the deluge, and tlie mountains and ridges were lowered and robbed of their loose stones, by the same cause. The opening of about fifty miles wide tlu'ough this part of the Alleghany ridge has probably tended in some measure to control and direct the course of the cuiTent of the water. The mastodon appears not to have been a native of this section of the country', but was probably an in- habitant of the champaign countries to the west, and the bodies may have been borne, on this mighty current, through falls and cataracts to the low, basin-Uke couiities of Ulster and Orange, where they were finally deposited. Before the delvige, the coun-
GEOLOGY. 41
ties of Orange and Ulster were probably formed of low sharp ridges of graywacke and limestone, and narrow short valleys run- ning in different directions, with little or scarcely any soil or earth either in the valleys, or on the low sharp ridges, and of course such countries would not be the natural residence of the unwieldy mastodon. The carcasses of these animals were probably in some cases brought whole, in others they were lacerated and torn asunder, or bruised, and the bones broken, before the flesh had decayed and dropped from them. This appears from the place and the condition in which the bones are found. The first skel- eton found in Orange was taken out of a swamp near Crawford's on the Newbvirgh turnpike. This carcass was deposited entire and unbroken m a pond or basin of water, and after the flesh was decayed from the bones, they were spread over an area of about thirty feet square ; the oiitlet of this pond is a firm rock ; the pond has been filled up by decayed vegetable substances, and now forms a swamp of about ten acres covered with maple and black ash. In the north part of this swamp, about two years ago, on digging a deep ditch to drain the ground, a skeleton of tlie mammoth was foimd ; this skeleton I immediately examined very minutely, and found, that the carcass had been deposited whole, but that the jaw-bone, two of the ribs, and a thigh-bone had been broken by some violent force while the carcass was whole ; on taking up the bones, this was evident, from every circumstance. Two other parts of skeletons were, some years since, disinterred, one near Ward's Bridge, and tlie other at Masten's meadow, in Shongham ; in both instances, the carcasses had been torn asunder, and the bones had been deposited with the flesh on, and in two or three instances, the bones were fract- ured. That the bones were deposited with the flesh attached to them, appears from the fact that they were found closely at- tached to each other, and evidently belonged only to one part of the carcass, and on a diligent search, no part of the otliar bones could be found within a moderate distance of the spot. If the animal had died where the bones were found, the whole skeleton would have been found at or near the place. Great violence would be necessary to break the bones of such large animals ; in the ordinary course of things, no force adequate to that effect, would be exerted ; I tliink it therefore fair reasoning, to say, that at the deluge, they were brought by the westerly cun-ents to the place where they were found ; that the carcasses were brought in the first violent surges, and bruised, broken and torn asunder by the tremendous cataracts, created wlien the cuiTents crossed the high mountains and ridges, and feU into the deep valleys between Shongham mountain, and the level countries at the west ; that those carcasses that came whole to the place where they finally rested, arrived after the waters had
42 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
attained a gi-eater height, and were probably less ■^'iolent, and of course the bodies were less liable to be beaten and bruised by coming in contact with the rocks. This \'iew of the facts appears to me fairly to account for the condition in which the bones of the mammoth are found.
f I have thus given a desultory sketch of a number of facts relating to the currents of water at the deluge, and their eftects on the face of the country ; if they should not appear to be new, they may stiU be received as evidences of dilu\'ial effect ia dif- ferent parts of our country."
There are in various parts of the county, in the troughs* formed by the wave-like elevations of ihe strata, drift stones, which lie in the du'ection of a stream, and which forcibly convey the suggestion that they were dropped by melted glacier ice.
ECONOMICAL GEOLOGY.
Manganese is an abundant metal in the county. It is formed in the sandstone strata, through wliich it is disseminated s^piu- ingly, and from wliich it is washed out by water, and by the uat- ui-al decomposition of the rock. It exists mostly in Fallsburgh and Liberty. In the former place, there is a collection of boulders, which are scattered somewhat plentifully over the northern part of the county. t These stones are abundant on Mr. Benjamin Kyle's farm, in FaUsburgh, where they have the following composition :
Eed sand 39.20
Alumina and peroxide of iron 13.00
Lime 17.00
Carbonic acid 19.00
Magnesia 1.80
Oxide of Manganese 10.00
100.00
» Tlie basin or trough-form in which the strata are deposited, renders it not improba- bl« that brine might be obtained by deep boring in the valley of the Delaware, between Deposit and Narrowsburgh ; in the valleys of both branches of the Delaware, and the lower parts of their main tributaries, and possibly in the valley of the Susquehann* about Sidney, in that of the Mongaup, and of the Neversiuk above Cuddebackville.
[Mather's Reports, p. 87.
The rocks between the Susquehanna and the Cat«kill mountain dip shghtly toward the valley of the Delaware, and in Schoharie county, they dip southward, giving » basin-shaped form to the stratification. It is a fact that has been forced upon my attention T)y extended observation, that many of our salt-well districts in the United States are in depressions of the strata ; in other words they are within the undula- tions, as troughs or basins in the strata. [Ibid.
t One of the hills on the farm of Doctor Kyle is mainly formed of manganese rock.
J. E. Q.
ECONOMICAL GEOLOGY. 43
The manganese easily separates from the rocks, and collects in low situations as black earthy oxide. It is too impure to be of much commercial value. It is remarkable that, associated with the manganese is a trace of cobalt. This- metal exists with the former wherever met in the county, and also in the mixed zinc and lead ore of Shawangunk. The cobalt ore is too spar- ingly scattered to be recovered profitably as an article of manufacture.
Ieon is found united with sulphur as pyrites in the giits of Shawangunk, and in western Neversink in the conglomerates. In contact with vegetable matter, it passes into red oxide, and in this condition is found in Lumberland and Forestburgh, where the pyrites have been washed out, and oxidized.
Clays. — Stiff clays are scattered abundantly over the county. Suitable clays for brickmaking are found in Eockland, none of which have been used for twenty years past. In Neversink, along the streams, are beds of heavy plastic clay. On Thomas E. Taylor's land is a very good blue clay. The bed is one foot deep and twenty rods long. A similar clay is met with near Charles C. Decker's land, which, fe-om its great whiteness, is used for whitewashing. A large amount of the subsoil of Nev- ersink is a stiff clay. The same kind is found in Liberty in several places. An ordinary brick clay is met with in Monticello, and in nearly all the swamps in the vicinity. B. F. Willetts, on the Thompsonville road, manufactures merchantable brick from the clay of his farm.
If the clays of Sullivan county were better treated by screen- ing, washing and sifting, previous to being bui-nt, they might be applied to other domestic pui-poses; yet the beds, though numerous, are not sufficiently extensive to justify an outlay upon the spot for these purposes. There is an application of chiy, however, which brick manufactui'ers might with safety adopt ; that is, the manufacture of draining tiles. A large extent of the country requires to be drained, and there is abundance of clay suitable for the manufactiire of tiles.*
* The State Surveyor, Mr. Mather, noticed considerable depoeitB of peat in the count.v, an article which may ultimately become of some value ; he says that there are iifty acres of it on the summit between Wurtsborough and Red Bridge ; live hundred acres south of Monticello, in the valley of Three Brooks ; one thousand acres between Wurtsborough and Cuddebackville ; about one hundred and twenty-five acres in various other places in the %icinity of Monticello. It probably exists in sevei-al other localities in the county. Many of our ponds if drained, would att'ord an inexhaustible supply of it.
Very valuable beds of clav and ochre have been discovered at Oakland, and on the line of the Monticello and Port Jervis R. R.
A valuable deposit of clay also exists on the farm of Chaa-les Barnum in Thompson.
J. E. Q.
44 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
Soil. — All soils are derived from the decomposition of rocks. These rocks may be either at the spot, or at some distance ; so that the existence of soil over a rock bottom does not necessarily imply that it is derived fi-om the rock on which it is foimd, and in considering the value and fertility of land, the sources of the soU must be attended to.
The soils of Sullivan county may be chiefly classed under two heads —
1. Those of the red sandstone or Catskill division.
2. Those of the drift origin.
Under the first are included all those soils derived from the red sandstone series, viz : argillaceous shale, red sandstone-grit, grey gi-its and shales.
Under the second are comprised those soils wliich, lying upon either the Catskill or Erie division, yet do not to any extent partake of the materials of the rocks. These soils occupy the lowest sections of the county, and are chiefly confined to Mama- kating valley. South of the Shawangunk range, the soil appears to be made up chiefly of decomposed shale, derived fi'om the Hudson river group. It occupies, however, but a small portion of the county's surface.
Among the soils of the Catskill group there are two which have a red color : one derived from a thin bed of argillaceous shale, which occupies an upper portion of the series — the other from a red sand-rock, a gritty stone. These soils differ slightly in their physical qualities ; that derived from argillaceous shale being more tenacious clay, and generally more fertile. The soils derived from the sand-rock (giit) are more extensively distrib- uted. They occupy a considerable space in Cochecton, Bethel and Thompson, and west of the Mongaup river. The argilla- ceous hes mainly between the Mongaup and Nevereink rivers. In their chemical character these two classes of soil difi^er very slightly — not in any important degree. They ai-e very sandy to the feel. Their various tints are due to variable amounts of organic matter present. When freed from this and burnt, the residue treated in miiriatic acid and dried, and then examined under the microscope, it is seen to be chiefly made up of fine sandy clay, and a large amount of fine grains of pure white quai-tz. These grains are roimded. "VMien the sand-rock or shale is treated in the stune way, a similar quartz residue is seen ; so that there is httle doubt of the relations between the rock and the soil here.
The soils of the county, taken as a whole, have a general re- semblance in their chemical constitution, as well as their physical texture. They are chiefly light and sandy lands, containing a
ECONOMICAL GEOLOGY — SOIL. 45
large amount of silica, sometimes existing as line white quarfczose sands; sometimes as gritty red sand, (nilicate of iron); while sometimes the iron is not peroxidized, and, though present, does not give the rasty tint ; but the peculiar green which some salts of iron possess. The sand in a majority of the soils approaches eighty-six per cent. ; the lime is generally below one-half of one per cent. ; the soluble .mline matters fiom one to two per cent., with generally a very small amount of phosphoric acid. They possess small quantities of every useful mineral, but no large quantities of any. And this is exactly what could be expected from soils of this origia.
What could grow upon the sandy shores of Long Island or Massachusetts, where the tide i-olls over every day, and washes out every trace of soluble matter? If it were diked and drained, what would such a soil be but a red sand, with just so much saline matter as the tide-water, held to tlie soil by cohesion, re- tained? And what is an old red sandstone more than this? An ancient sea beach, formed and acted upon as beaches now are, it is ahnost identical in constitution. Such soils contain but Uttle nutritious matter for plants, and as the parent rock is. slow in decomposition, these elements are but slowly augmented, even though the soil be left uncultivated; bixt by the usual cropping, where so much is taken off the land and so little re- turned, the effect is to remove these matters faster than they are supplied ; and the result is that the soil becomes permanently impoverished after a few rotations of such farming.
These remarks on sandstone soils are not made with the ob- ject of depreciating them. If they have their disadvantages of being less rich in mineral elements, they have the advantage of being more permeable to aii- and water, and are more easily cultivated. It is yet a question which kind of soil (a sand or clay) a farmer should select. Certainly, within one hundred miles of New York, the sandy land ^vould be preferred. Good tillage and high manuriag will make it equal to the best of soils.
Ahnost the whole of Sulhvan county is occupied with sand- rocks; and hence the uniformity of the character of the soU. Generally speakiug, however, the western slopes of the strata have their soil formed fi-om the rocks below without any change ; while on the eastern slopes the soil is mixed witli drift to a more or less extent, which, in the majority of instances, improves it.
The only portion of the county where sand-rocks do not exist is in Maniakating valley, where the Heklerberg limestones are met with ; but they He so deep, being covered with drift, and being placed so nearly vertical tliat iin edge of tlie stratum, and not one of its sides, is presented ; and thus the rock cannot wear to any extent, or communicate its more valuable element, hme, in any remarkable amount, to the soil.
46 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
The pristine character of the strata underneath is no unim- portant matter. In the northern and middle part of tlae county, Mie dip of the strata is not more than 70^, and as the rock is nearly imperv-ious to water, the latter will be very slowly deliv- ered from such a horizontal surface. It collects in the course of the year in the lower layers of the soil, and tliere it remains until slowly drained off at its lower outlet, or imtil it is evapor- ated by the summer sun. The soil is thus undergoing a double injury; its lower stratum is chilled, and vegetation prevented fi-om traveling down ; and when the water is raised by capillary action, it cools the soil, and thus retards the vegetation upon the surface. It may thus be seen that a sandy soil, which would natiirally drain itself, and whose upper portion is dry because it has done so, may yet be unable, from the hard rockbeneath, to drain itself thoroughly. And this is the condition of much of SiiUivan county. A large poi-tion of the land, though dry above, is wet below, and althoiigh a sand, it requires to be drained, and will, by increased crops, repay the inteUigent farmer who adopts this practice.
The elevation of the county hmits the period of gi-owth of plants, and prevents the successful cultivation of some cereals. Therefore it is desii-able to lengthen the period of growth. Drainage will accomplish this by letting in the hot air of spring. It ^viR give one fortnight more of svunmer existence to plants. This fortnight would save the com crop in many years, and this saving alone woiild repay the expense.
No amount of manuring will sufficiently warm land which has not been drained. It is a waste to add it to wet soils. They are antagonistic.
Subsoiling is only beneficial to dry lands, and should not be practiced on wet soils. Moss, ru^es and coarse grass betray a superabundance of moistiu-e lurking in some of the finest soils of the county.
The drift soils are, as has been stated, confined to Mama- kating valley, where they attain a considerable thickness, amounting in some places to thu-ty feet in depth. They also occupy the eastern edge of many of the hills and slopes, where they mingle with the sandstone or slate. These soils have not the redness of the sand-rocks, nor the gritty fcehng of the t'ats- kill soils. They have less silicioiis matters, and more clay tlian the latter ; are somewhat richer in the saline matters, and much richer in hme.
The soils of Morrison, DiU and HoUey are examples of cbift soils. Although a richer soil per se than the Catskill, it contains no means of sustenance -nithiu itself, and will therefore be worn out, as the former.
The drift soils stand intermediate between the CatskiU
ECONOMICAL GEOLOaY— SOIL. 47
and the Hudson river rock soil in the amount of alumina they contain.
The soils south of the Shawangunk range are of a heavier texture than those north. They are derived fi-om the Hudson slates, which decompose readily, and furnish a good soil, and constantly replenish it. It is less susceptible of exhaustion than either of the former varieties of soU. It is less fine in its texture, and more difficult to work. It partakes somewhat of the char- acter of the soil of Orange county. North of the Shawangunk, the soil is homogeneous ; south of it, the clay predominates.
The green and grey grits which underlay Lumberland afi'ord a deep soU. It is remarkably fine in its texture ; is readily cul- tivated, and is a primitive soil. It is comparatively abundant in mineral, and rich in organic matters. It is, to a great extent, drained naturcdhj by the softer character of the shale, and being more elevated iu its angle toward the horizon, o^ing to its prox- imity to the upheaving force which raised Shawangunk.
This part of the coiinty has as yet been but little from its primitive condition. It -will well repay any treatment which will make it cultivated land. Its slope to the east ; its position (being several himdi-ed feet below the rest of the county, thereby rendering it more warm and sheltered) recommend it as having a more equable climate than the more elevated land of the central ard northern to-v\ais.
Aliimina and lime are the two deficiencies of the whole coiinty. A substitute may be foimd for the former in vegetable matter — pond or swamp muck, composted barn-yard manure, or by
plo\^ang in clover. Much Uiiie is not suitable to sandy soils. Less should be applied to them than to clays. Small quantities (ten to twenty-five bushels to the acre) will be found efficacious,
and less exliausting than large ones, which are washed through a sandy soil, and burn out the vegetable matter too rapidly. Wet soils should be drained before lime is applied. It is not advisable to add caustic lime to slate soils until it has been composted, when it will not leach out so rapidly, and its good effects will be as apparent.
The spent tan which exists so abundantly in the county is an excellent material for composting with Unie, and is as good as pond or swamp muck for that purpose. The cereal plants re- quire allcalies and phosphate of hme. The amount of the latter iu the natural or ^drgin soU is very slight. It has been very generally recommended for cereal plants.
The farmers of Sulhvan should cultivate root crops exten- sively ; select improved breeds of cattle ; raise stock ; raise and consume their own hay ; stall feed more ; send their mUk and
48 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COtTNTT.
butter to market, followed by the flesh ;* cultivate the best ap- ples and pears, and make them a staple export. In this way, they will learn for what then- soil is best adapted. In these products tliis county need not be excelled, as the soil of SuUivan is of that kind which fui-uishes the best dairies and orchards.
* All of the country containing the Catskill division of rocks is mountainous, but it lies in heavy swells of liind, rarely precipitous, except where sti'eams have cut deep gorges and ravines, and on the eastern and southern flanks of the mountains, where they bound the Hudson and Mamakating valleys. Nearly all the more elevated swell* of land are capable of tillage to their summits. * » « The soil is porous enough not to wash, and springs of limpid pure cold water abound. The surface is stony and gravelly, but is well adapted to grass, oats, potatoes and barley. Wheat succeeds well for a few years after the land is cleared, as long as the roots of trees and bushes re- main to keep the soil Ught ; but after that time, the soil heaves by the frost, and the wheat is winter-killed. The county is admirably adapted for grazmg, both for cattle and sheep, and the fine sw«et grass and cold springs offer as great f aciUties for making excellent butter as the world affords. A large proportion of the butter sold under the name of Goshen Imtter, wliich is celebrated for its superior qualities, is made in the mountain region of Delaware, Sullivan, Ulster and Greene counties.
[Geology of the Firet District of New York, p. 313.
GEOLOGY — LIST OF BOCKS, &C. 49
LIST OF ROCKS, AC, COLLECTED IN SULLIVAN COUNTY, BY DOCTOR ANTISELL.
Hudson river slate E. side of Shawangunk, on plank road.
Shawangunk conglomerate, " "
Green grit " " on plank road.
Fermginous quartz ciystals
in grit " " at county Une.
Ked rock " " on plank road.
Pyritiferous gi'aywacke ..." " at county line.
Helderberg limestone Delaware and Hudson canal, lock 37.
Khomboidal calc-spar " " "
Dark slate and shale Phillips Port, a few rods west.
Anthracite coal, impure,
shaly "
Dark slate, with fossil vege- tation County line, near Eed Bridge.
Gray grit South of Lord's pond.
Gray sandstone Neversink river, Bridge\'ille.
Coarse sand-rock " "
Red sandstone " "
Gray sand-rock " E. bank, near Wm.
Hall's.
Red sandstone shale " " "
Bed micaceous sand-rock . . Monticello.
Red shale Great Lot 4, Fallsburgh.
" B. Sherwood's, Liberty.
Gray sand-rock " underneath shale.
O. H. Bush's farm, Fallsburgh.
Manganese rock Kyle's farm, "
Black oxide manganese ..." "
Red sandstone Mutton Hill, upper bed.
Gray sand-rock " lower bed.
Green slate flag-stone .... Hill under Presb'n church, Liberty.
Steatitic rock " " between the seams.
Red sandstone Hill east of Brown Settlement.
Gray sand-rock, Avitli seam
of anthracite Hill on 8,000 acre tract.
Gray sand-rock Base of hills in Brown Settlement.
Red sandstone Big Flats, Rockland.
Limestone boulder Little Flats, Rockland.
CHAPTEB n.
CLIMATE— BY PROF. ANTISELL.
By this term is generally understood the character of the "weather pecnliar to a country as respects heat and cold, humid- ity and dryness, variations in the barometer, fertility and the alternation of the seasons. The latitude, the annual fall of rain, the elevation of the land above the sea, its condition of cultiva- tion and proximity to the ocean, with the position of the slope of the land, are the chief circumstances of any region which re- quire to be noticed in order to form a correct idea of the climate of that place.
Generally speaking, in the temperate zone, the latitudes of this codtinent have temperatures inferior to those of Eivrope. The isothermal line (50° of Humboldt) in Europe is found pass- ing over the north of Ireland and England, through Belgium and Middle Germany to the Crimea ; it enters Asia north of the Caspian sea, and passes over Lake Baikal, and through Mon- golia and the Manchoo territory towards China, and leaves that continent south of Yeddo, on the sea of Japan ; it f)asses over the Pacific ocean, and touches the west of this continent near the boundary line between Oregon and California ; then it crosses the Mandan district and Iowa, and passes over Lakes Michigan and Erie ; it then bends in a south-easterly direction over the State of New York, and passes into the Atlantic in the vicinity of the city of New York.
On the east side of this continent, under this line,
the mean summer temperature is 71.6
" winter " 30.2
On the western coast, under this line,
the mean summer temperature is 69.75
winter " 38.70
Thus, under the same isothermal line, the climate of the West varies from that of the East, the former being more equable throughout the year, and the mean winter temperature being considerably above the freezing point. Hence it appears that we
[50]
CLIMATE. 61
cannot arrive at a true conclusion concerning the climate of any place from the study of its isothermal lines, (lines of equal mean annual temperature :) it would be necessary to pay attention to the isochimenal and isotheral lines, (hnes of equal mean winter and summer temperatures).
A single instance will illustrate this position. In order to produce potable wine, it is requisite that the mean annual heat should exceed 49° ; that the winter temperature should be up- wards of 33° ; and that the mean summer temperature should be upwards of 64°. At Bordeaux, in the vale of the Garonne, the mean annual, winter, summer and autumn temperatures are respectively 57°, 43°, 71°, and 58°. On the plains near the Baltic, where the grape produces a wine which is hardly potable, these numbers are 47° 5', 31°, 63° 7' and 47° 5'. On comparing the figures given in the accompanying tables, it will be seen that, while this county has the summer temperature necessary for the growth of the vine, its winter temperature is below the point fit for producing palatable wine. As with the grape, so with every cultivated plant. It has its ranges of temperatiu-e within which it will grow and produce those elements of nutriment for which it was raised. And hence arises the value of the study of local temperatures to the farmer. It is as needful to him as the choice of a good variety of seed, or of a useful manure.
The farmer will bear in mind how much these observations may yet be improved. For instance : the temperatures given in the returns of all institutions are the temperatures of the air in the shade, and generally within doors. These, thoiigh excellent for the puiposes for which they were designed, do not convey to the agriculturist all the information he should desire. He requires to know the temperature of the air in the sun, the con- dition in which the plant is placed, and before all, he should know the temperature of the soil from two to six inches deep — a knowledge not yet recorded in any series of observations made for this State.
The following table was furnished by Charles S. Woodward, from observations made at his house, at Beaver Brook, in 1851 and 1852:
history of SULLIVAN COUNTY.
co-
When highest.
0 00
Il
a §
1"
_tJ3 -3
OO i-ICC00i-HO00!MC0O
-nHcit-^coi-it-^fOr-it-^coci'ad
COCO-*lOtCiCOt-t~OlOCCG<l
■ib
fl
ooco in CI t~ (M ic 1-1 CO 05
CO 0 -^ ci cj 'i< 0 0 re 'n' co' cc
COCO-^'^lO^Dt-COtOlCCOlM
0
a
p?^i.oiOi-jpio _ict>;co<r;
u-jcocO'^ioiocoSic^cocq
1 1
When high'st
1
-3
1
i
1
s
CM
CO
January
Februahy . .
March
April
May
June
July
August
September . October . . . November . . December . .
53
1
^ CO
1 ^
^
co"
II
28.9
35.2
40.1
46.2
62.2
69.8
76.
67.
66.8
57.5
41.4
39.
CO
i
coTt<cocooot->oc5cq-i#co cdi-icdtMooiocdcocdcodoo
<MCOCO'*>OCOCDCOCOlO'*CO
s
23.6
28.
35.6
39.
53.6
60.9
66.4
62.45
55.1
49.4
38.1
35.
CO
1
s
05 ~1 CD tH 00 T-H
1 g
8
fl
i
1
28.90 28.92 29.02 28.77 29.07 29.04 29.12 29.14 29.16 29.11 28.97 29.04
UO
r-l
January
Febeuaby
Maech
April
May
Juke
July
August
September
October
November
December
84 HISTOKY OF SDLLTVAN COUNTY.
From the useful information which may be drawn by inspec- tion of these figures, the following may be noticed here :
The spring and fail of 1852 were warmer than those seasons of 1851, while the summer of 1851 was warmer. Now, as the summer months are the growing months of plants, the harvests of 1851 ought to have been more abundant, other cir- cumstances bemg the same.
If the mean temperatiires of these two years, from May to November inclusive, (those months during which vegetation can exist,) be contrasted, the following figures appear :
1851. 1852.
May 57.6 58.2
June 63 65.4
July 69.4 66.9
August 66 65.4
September 63 61.7
October 51.33 53.4
November 34.4 39.9
If we deduct fi-om these the months of May and November, and include only the five months of vegetable growth, the mean temperatures of these five months are, for 1851, 63.8 ; for 1852, 63.5. As these years difler fi-om each other by a small range, the above figures of both years might be united, and the mean average temperature of the place found thus for a series of years. This is done here below, and the same average struck for two years of records of Seneca county afi'ord a useful comparison :
SvLLivAN Co. Mean. Seneca Co. JIean. 1851 afld 1852. 1849 and 1850.
May 57.9 53.3
June 64.2 68.
July 68.1 72.9
August 65.7 68.5
September 62.3 60.6
Mean for the 5 months 63.6 64.6
The summers of Seneca county are warmer than those of Sul- livan, whilfe May and September are cooler. June and July are ¥-' and August 3° hotter in the former county. The gi-owth and ripening of cereal plants must be more rapid and certain in the more northern county. Taking five months together, the diflfer- ence ia the mean temperature of the two counties is but one degree.
It may be safely deduced from the foregoing averages of temperatui-e, that those plants only can be cultivated in this county which require a mean summer heat under 60°.
The mean temperature of the month of April represents very closely the mean of the year, thus :
CLIMATE. 55
1851. 1852.
Month of April 49. I Month of April 49.3
The year 49.57 | The year 49.1
The mean annual temperatures of three counties surveyed, when contrasted appear thus : Yearly mean temperature of Cazenovia, Madison
county — elevation above tide 1227 feet 42.73
do. do. do. of Oaklands, Seneca county — elevation 480
feet— year 1849 47.25
do. do. do. year 1850 48.85
do. do. do. Beaver Brook, Sullivan countv — year 1851, 49.57 do. do. do. do. do. do. " do. 1852, 49.1
do. do. do. Liberty, Sullivan county — elevation 1300
feet— year 1851 44.19
The contrast in the annual temperatures of Beaver Brook and Liberty village is remarkable, amounting to 5°. This may be partly explained by the difference in elevation of both places, Liberty village being several hundred feet above Beaver Bi'ook : every 350 feet of elevation being equivalent to the diminution of one degiee of temperature.
The following communication from Doctor Watkins, from the observations made at the Liberty Normal Institute, shows the monthly mean temperature and fall of rain in that part of the county:
" The thermometer was the highest on the 18th day of July and the 12tli of September. On both days, at 2 o'clock P. M., it was at 85°. It was the lowest on the morning of the 27th of December at 6 o'clock, viz : 8° below zero. The mean temper- ature as follows, and the quantity of water that fell each month : 1851. Mean. Water — inches.
January 25.4 2.47
Februarj^ 28.0 7.69
March 33.6 3.15
April 41.0 10.91
May 54.18 3.69
June 60.0 4.88
July 66.0 2.68
August 64.03 2.22
September 58.0 3.49
October 48.0 2.68
November 31.7 3.64
December 20.3 3.88
Mean for the year 44.19 Total 51.38
EespectfuUy yours, John D. Watkins."
The fall of rain given in Doctor Watkins' table is very high — much above the average of the mean in this State, or in many
56 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
of its counties. The average fall of rain .in Yates comity for twenty-one years is 27.26 inches; the average for the whole United States is 39 inches. It is not possible, without a series of observations extending over a quarter of a centiuy, to draw any exact conclusions regarding climate. Sullivan county does not yet present data ample enough.
When the fall of rain is abundant, the sky is generallv con- stantly clouded, especially in elevated districts ; and although the temperature may be the same as that of the clear atmos- phere of another place, yet the direct rays of the sun being wanting, vegetation does not proceed as vigorously. The chemical processes carried on in plants require for their perfection the direct sunUght. Accompanying the direct ray is an electrical action or excitement which exerts a powerful stimulus on the functions of animal and vegetable life, and which is almost whoUy withheld in cloudy countries. Sunlight, electricity and vegetable growth go hand in hand. If the first be •withheld, the other phenomena are wanting. Generally speaking, the gi-owth of the plant in summer is accelerated by direct sunlight. In fall, the ripening of the ear is best accomplished -natli a cloudy sky.
Although the records of creation incontestably show, that the surface of the earth in our latitudes is somewhat cooler than it once was, yet we are not justified in believing that any material change of climate has occurred within the ti-aditionary epoch. There may be a warmer summer or cooler winter this year than last ; or, for a few years together, more or less rain than usual may fall ; but, at the end of a series of years, the registers of temperature and barometric pressure, both on this continent and in Europe, have shown figures preser^-ing a remarkable degree of constancy. Once assured of this, the collection of facts for the ascertainment of climate becomes of great importance.
The mean temperature of the southern part of the coimty is, as we have seen from Mr. Woodward's table, from Ma}- to Oc- tober, 63.6. From Doctor Watkins' summary, we find tlie same period at Liberty to have only the temperature of 60.4. If we select the three gi-o wing, months, June, July and August, the mean temperature is 63.8. While those months in Liberty are nearly as warm as in Lumberland, the mouths of May and Sep- tember are remarkably cooler. Now, with the mean annual heat of Liberty, the success of the wheat crop must be precarious. This plant cannot ripen where the mean summer heat is less than 60^. This is the limit of temjjerature, and the neighboi- hood of Liberty in 1851, came do^vn to this limit. In situations more elevated than the ■saLlage of Liberty, the temperature must have been below what would fully riijen its ear. This is a matter of very gi-eat importance to the farmers of Sullivan — namely, to ascertain the relations existing between the temperatm-e of the air
and the requirements of the crops. It does appear from the records of the meteorological observations taken, that there are places in the county where, in summers that are not unusually warm, wheat will not ripen ; and the agricidturist miist not ex- pect, by outlays on the ground, by improvement of his soil, or extensive use of manure, to overstep or conquer that limit of growth which nature has assigned to every species of plant. He will then select the hardier cereals, as barley, which requires only a summer heat of 41°, or rye, which needs still less.
The lands which have a less altitude than those about Liberty, and which slope to the south and the east, appear favorably situated for the growth of all the bread plants, the mean tem- peratiire of the summer being sufficient. It is, however, con- siderably sliorter in season, and the early autumn frosts are apt to check the ripening of seeds and fi-uits, and even to desti-oy their vitality. As this frost is due to the elevation above tide level, it cannot be averted; but its injiirions influence may be diminished by increasing the length of the growing year. This may be accomplished by a better drainage of the land. A fi-ee drainage allows the warm air of spring to permeate through the land, and to heat it up several degrees higher than imdi-ained land. The seed sown in it is germinated sooner, and sooner comes to maturity, and will almost to a certainty have accom- plished all its changes of ripening before the destructive frost sets in. A good system of di'ainage prolongs the season onefort- niqlit — that is, planting on drained ground may hegin fourteen days earlier.
This necessity for bottom heat is admitted in ivords by farmers. It is only practically carried out by fniit growers and market gardeners. It requires a bottom heat or a temperature of the soil of 60° to germinate the seeds of com. Those planted when the soil is 45° of heat, die. The seeds rot. Now, the temper- ature of tlie air in Lumberland in May, 1851, did not average 60° until the 10th of tbe month. The soil is never as warm as the au- in spring. It is usually 5° below it. The temperature of the son suitable for germinating corn did not commence until the 22d. In May, 1852, the weather was cool in the middle of the month, and it was not until the 22d that an average above 60° of heat existed in the air. About the 28th of May, the ground had this ^\•armth. Seed planted much earlier than this was more likely to be killed than to vegetate ; but seed planted so late is hable to be injm-ed by the fi-ost ; and hence the advantage of (b-aiuing land, by which means the temperature of the soil and the air would run together, and the loss of crop by seed rotting would not occur.
That there does exist this discrepancy between the temper- atures of the earth and the air is evident fi-om the tables given
58 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY,
by Mr. Emmons, and published in the Survey of Seneca county. This diflference is owing to the earth being an imperfect con- ductor of heat, communicating its temperature so slowly that M. Arago has occasionally found as much as 14° and even 18° difference between the heat of the soil and that of the air two or three inches above it.
The effect of altitude in lowering the mean temperature, has already been noticed. In considering the effects of temperature on vegetation, it will be necessary to recollect that the tables of temperature drawn from the Register of Charles S. Woodward, are temperatures of a comparatively low position in the county. The land in Rockland, Neversink, Liberty, CalUcoon, Bethel, Cochecton, Thompson and a part of Fallsburgh being above it in sea level. Allowance wiU have to be made on this account. The same may be said, though not to the same extent, in regard to the summary from Hon. John D. Watkins' register. There is a portion of the county, though not a large one, under culti- vation at a higher level than the Liberty Normal Institute. To such situations, the arguments adduced, sho\ving how precarious must be a crop of wheat, apply with augmented foi-ce. The various levels of the county may be estimated by the following altitudes :
No. ol feet aboye tide water.
Bridge over Shawangunk kill 437
Bloomingbui^h 610
Shawangiink summit 1007
Delaware and Hudson Canal 519
Neversink bridge at Bridgeville 1059
Monticello 1503
House of Joseph Young, in Liberty 1530
Summit of Barrens 1581
"Walnut Mountain 1984
Other conditions besides latitude and elevation determine tho capability to grow certain crops. One important condition is, whether the ground is cleared or covered with timber. On cleared gi'ound the sun has fuU force, and warms it ; the moisture is evaporated ; the marsh and the rushy grass disappear ; the grounds become lighter colored from the sun bleaching out its vegetable matter, and it rains less frequently over these places. On forest lands, the sun scarcely reaches the groimd, and the i«egetable matter which falls decays slowly. The earth is cold, moist and dark-colored. It rains more frequently, and the evaporation is less. A wooded country is the source of springs and rivers, and to remove the timber is to check the regularity of the supply. The total fall of the rain will be the same in the cleared and in the wooded country ; but in the former it is at long intervals, and then in large quantities, accompanied with
CLIMATE. 69
thunder-storms, and the tonents form new water-courses and do great mischief. In the wooded country rain is more uniformly disti-ibiited, and mth less electrical disturbance.
The efifect of extensive tanneries, by removing the forests, will be injurious to the supply of water for machinery, and render the country liable to drought. The hill tops, at least, should be left permanently clad with timber. In the zeal to clear the country of forest timber, and to cultivate land, due discretion should be exercised, so that the means used be not an obstacle to success ; and it should always be borne in mind, that districts which have no very elevated mountain tops, require always the presence of forest timber to a certain extent, to equahze the electrical condition of the air, and to afford a permanent and equable flow of water over the land.
CHAPTEE ni.
THE LENNI LENAPE.
According to a tradition of the Lenui Lenaj^e Indians, some of their forefathers were fishing at a place where the Ma-hi-can- nit-tuck* widens iato tlie sea, when they saw a remarkable object floating on the water. Other Indians were notified, who came ; but no one coiild decide what the strange thing was. Some pronounced it a large fish, others an immense animal, and others a big ^-igwam. As it moved steadily toward the land, they imagined that it had Hfe in it. Runners were dispatched to infonn their chiefs, warriors and wise men. These, being gath- ered together, came to the conclusion that it was a remarkably large wigwam, ia which the Manitou lived, and that he was commg to visit them.
This conclusion of course created a profound sensation among the simple children of the forest. The Supreme Bemg, the Creator of aU good things, whom they had M'orshiped, to whom their fathers had oifered the choicest gifts from the time man was made, and who from the beginning had so seldom made him- self visible to his creatures, was about to land upon thek shores, and be seen hj them, and converse ^vith them.
The sacrifice was prepared, the best food provided for the Great Being, and a dance ordered to honor him, and apjiease his anger, if his mood were -WTathful. The dance commenced ; but hope, and fear and curiosity caused the performers to acquit themselves in a manner not very creditable. Much confusion prevailed, when fi-esh runners arrived, who declared that the cause of their disturbance M'as a large wigwam of various colors, and that it was crowded with li\ing creatures. This confirmed their beUef that the Supreme Beiug was coming to them, and the impression obtained a foothold that he was bringing with him new animals for the subsistence of his children. Other messengers arrived, and reported that the living creatui-es were
* The Hudson river. Tliis river has beou knowii as the Mauritius, tlio Nassau, the North and the Hudson river. Ma-hi-ean-nit-tuck or Ma-ha-ken-cgh-tuc is an Algon- quin name for the Hudson. The Algonquins also called it the Shat-tc-muck. Tlu name applied to it hy the Iroquois or Mengwe was, Ca-ho-ha-ta-te-a. Tlie name givei; to it by Hudson was the Great Eiver or Great River of the Mountains.
[See Eager's History of Orange County, p. 203.
[GOJ
THE LENNI LENAPE. 61
human beings, with pale faces and strange garments — one par- ticularly was clothed in very brilliant materials. The latter they decided was the Manitou himself.
The tradition next describes the landing of the strangers — the inclination of some of the Indians to run away and conceal themselves in the woods — the efforts of the brave and Avise to prevent an exhibition of such cowardice, and the reception of the visitors.
A large circle of chiefs and wise men was formed, toward which the man ornamented with gold lace, etc., approached, with two others. Friendly salutations followed fi'om each side. The Indians were amazed at the briUiant ornaments and white skin of the supposed Manitou, and were sorely puzzled when they found that he did not understand the words of his children, and that his language was not intelligible to them.
While they were gazing at him with respectful gravity, a servant brought a large hack-Jiack, (gourd) from which was poui'ed into a smaller vessel a licpiid which the Great Bein^ diank, and then some of it was offered to one of the chiefs. He looked at it, and it was not offensive to the eye ; he smeUed it, and his untutored nostrils were not pleased with its pungent odor. It was then passed to the next chief, who followed the example of the first, and gave it to another. The cup was thus transferred to each one in the cii-cle, and was about to be retm-ued to the supposed Manitou, when a great and brave warrior conceived that the act would be disrespectful to the Deity, and he forth- with harangued his fellows on the improprietj- of their conduct. To follow the example of the Manitou would be meritorious; but to return what he had given them might offend him, and lead him to punish them. The speaker would drink the contents of the cup himself, and though he perished, he would save his nation fi-om destruction. Having thus announced his laudable determination, he bade the assembled braves farewell, and taking the cup, drank what it contained. Soon he began to exhibit the usual signs of intoxication, and after conducting liimseK in a manner not becoming a grave and dignified brave about to die, he feU to the gi-ound. His friends imagined he was dead, while he was only " dead di-unk." When he had recovered fi'om his intoxication, he informed the other chiefs and braves that the Uquid had given him the most pleasant sensations he had ever experienced. All became anxious to feel these sensations. More of the beverage was solicited and granted, and general intoxica- tion followed.*
The man whom the Indians looked upon as a god, was Henry Hudson, who left Amsterdam on the 4th of April, 1609, with
* Eager's History of Orange Cuniity. Eager borrows this story from Heckewelder.
m HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTI.
twenty men, in the Halfmoon, to search for a new ocean passage to India* Being prevented by ice from prosecuting his voyage according to his original intention, he turned aside and crossed the Atlantic. On the 18th of July, he arrived on the coast near Portland, Maine, and on the 3d of September, landed within Sandy Hook. On the 6th, an exploring party was attacked between Bergen Neck and Staten Island, by twenty-six natives, who were in canoes, and John Colman, one of Hudson's men, was killed, and two others wounded. On the 11th, Hudson passed the Narrows, and found the natives, as he proceeded, more friendly. They brought to him Indian corn, beans, tobacco and oysters. They had copper pipes and ornaments, and rude earthen pots.
From the 12th to the 22d of September, he was engaged in ascending and exploring the river which bears his name. He
Sroceeded in the Halfmoon as far as the site of the city of [udson, finding the Indians more and more friendly. His journal says they were " a very loving people," some of their men very old, and that "the whites were well used." From Hudson city, a boat was sent several leagues farther, and prob- ably reached the locality where Albany now stands.
While descending the river, the Indians on the west side were troublesome. They attempted to steal from him, and being detected and not used very gently, they became exasperated, and shot arrows at his crew, when the vessel passed near the shore. They were punished severely for doing so, for Hudson's men shot ten or twelve of them.
This was the first visit of the white man to the Lenni Lenape of the Hudson, which resulted in a permanent intercoui-se of the two races.t The natives with whom he came in contact were an Indian race known as Algonquins, a people extending at that time fi-om the Atlantic Ocean nearly to the Pacific, and embracing over forty tribes, of whom the Lenape claimed to be the parent stock.
We shall notice this confederacy of Indians more fully here- after, as they were the aboriginal inhabitants of the county whose history we are writing, and as such are entitled to a chapter devoted to then- origin, rise, progiess and decay.
The origin of the aboriginal race of America has been the subject of much speculation. No record of ancient times — no tradition points with positive significance to a people from whom
* He discovered Hudson's Bay in 1610, where he remained ice-bound until the spring of 1611. While returning to Europe, his crew mutinied, and placed him and his son, with seven sick companions, in an open boat, and set them adrift. They were never heard of afterward*.
t John Verrazani, an eminent Florentine navigator, anchored in the Bays of Delaware and New York in 1524, and gave the name of New France to the country. His royal master, Francis I. of France, did not profit by his discovery.
THK LENNI LENAPE. 63
they have descended. Some suppose that the ancient Phoeni- cians visited America and planted colonies here. Others imag- ine that the Hindoos are a kindred race of the red men of America, and endeavor to prove that their fancies are worthy of serious consideration. A third theory is, that California is the Ophir of Solomon's day. A fourth, that the lost tribes of Israel crossed the ocean, and peopled our wilds. A fifth, that the ancestors of the Indians came from Asia. Among the thousand theories which have been advanced, the latter is the most plausible and may be summed up in a few words : " The people of north-eastern Asia and the north-west coast of Ainerica have a near resemblance in person, customs and languages ; and those of the Aleutian Islands present many of the characteristics of both."* Ledyard said of the people of Eastern Siberia, " Universally and circumstantially, they resemble the aborigines •of America."
That the red men of America have a common origin, and that they came here at a very early period of the world's history, there is but little doubt. From the cold North-west, they gi-ad- uaUy spread over North and South America. This theory is rendered almost a certaiaty by the fact that the natives of the two continents who exist in that region, habitually visit each other by crossing on the ice in winter, and in their boats in summer. Their boats are now precisely what they were at the time the white man first visited them.
A kind and genial climate, and a soil rich and inexhaustible, produced their usual effects upon the condition of the first in- habitants of Mexico, Central America, Peru, etc. An abundance of food led to a rapid increase in population, and to great wealth. The pride of the rich required "pomps and vanities"; their ■palates con.stantly craved new sensations, and the ingenuity and eenius of those who had more brains than provender, were taxed for the gratification of those who could pay well for novelties. The arts advanced gradually until cities were built but little inferior to the most celebrated in the world. The architecture, ■sculpture, etc., of these ancient cities still are ranked among the wonderful fniits of the skill and ingenuity of man.
These ruins and relics point to a powerful and wealthy people, with a government and institutions of long standing, t
The riches of the aristocracy must have been enormous and almost without a parallel in other communities ; for the expense of erecting and embeUishing their palaces, and the formation and completion of the surroundings of such magnificent edifices, taking into consideration the mechanical and other forces knowai
* LosBing's History of the llnited States.
t Brownell's Indian Races of North and South America.
64 HISTORY OF SOTilVAN COUNTY.
to them, must have been a thousand-fold gi-eater than anjttiing^ recoi-ded of the white man.
These ancient evidences of aboriginal civilization extend fi-om south latitude 33^ 16' northerly over a territory three thousand miles in extent. In their character and number they are un- rivaled by the remains of any other people. In theii- silent grandeur- they attest the power, the luxury, the skiU and the civilization of a race which has risen fi'om an abnormal condition, to an exalted degree of development in much that is magniiicent, gi-otesque and utilitarian; but who, in purity of taste and in morahty, remained savages ; for they were cannibals, and sacri- ficed human life upon their idolatrous altars.
As we recede fiom the territory of the Aztecs northwardly, the evidences of ancient ei^Tlization gi-adually disappear, the most remote' being earthen mounds and fortifications in the vicinity of the Great Lakes of North America. Beyond these are found rude specimens of pottery and stone implements used in the chase, in war, agricultui-e, etc.
The red men of the North had no cities, and it can hardly be said of them that they had a permanent abiding place. At cer- tain seasons of the year, small bands would reside in localities suitable for raising maize, beans, etc. — generally on tlie banks of some stream or river, where the soil was rich and meUow, and for the cultivation of which their rude and simple agiicultural implements were sufficient. At other times, theii- A\ig«'ams wouli be on the moimtains where the elk, deer and bear abounded. And agam, thej would be found where salmon and other fish could be taken most readily.
Tlie country they occupied and their wars prevented them fi-om becoming numerous. Theks was a constant stniggle to obtain a sufficiency of food, and to guard their own lives and destroy those of their enemies. With them, the civilization of the Aztecs and the lucas was not a necessitj- — was imjxjssible. An equal number of white men, dispersed over the same terri- tory, divided into small clans, constantly engaged in warfare, and with the same means of subsistence, would become ignorant and degraded, and the arts and sciences, Hterature, etc., would be forgotten by them.
The Indians who inhabited Sullivan county, when the whites first visited the country, were Lennl Lenape, who were also kno\vn as WapcuHwIikl, Ojximaki, 0}iencuii,Al)enaqms and Apeiiakies. At a sub- sequent period, they were called Delawares by the whites, because they occupied territory from which that river derives its waters.
Ihe Lenni Lenape were di\'ided into three tribes — the Unami, or Turtle ; the Umlacldyo, or Turkey ; and the Minsi, or "Wolf.*
* Sometimes called MunceyB, MinisinkB, etc.
THE LENNI LENAPE. 65
The Unamis and Uiialachtgijs occupied the coast from the Hudson river to the Potomac, while the Miii-<ii, or Wolf tribe, extended from Minisink, on the Delaware, where they held theu" council seat, to the Hudson on the east, to the Susquehanna on. the south-west, to the head-waters of the Delaware and Susque- hanna rivers, and to the CatskiU mountains on the north, and on the south to that range of hills now known, in New Jersey, by the name of Musconetoong, and by that of Lehigh and Cogh- newago, in Pennsylvania.* They therefore occupied all of Sullivan county.
These tiibes were subdivided into numerous clans, who re- ceived their names from the streams or lakes which they frequented, or from some circumstance more or less remarkable.
The Lenape claimed to be the parent stock, or "original people," or " gi-andfathers" of at least forty other tribes, who spoke then- language or its dialects, among whom may be named the Knisteneaux, who inhabit the region extending from Labra- dor to the Bocky Moimtains; the Athapascas, who occupy a belt of country fi-om Churchill's River and Hudson's Bay to within a hundred miles of the Pacific coast ; the Ottawas, Ohip- pewas. Sacs and Foxes, Menomonees, Miamies, Piaukeshaws, Pottowatomies, Kickapoos, Ilhnois, Shawnees, Powhatans, Corees, Nanticokes, Mohegans, the New England IncUaus, the Abenakes, Susquesahannocks, Mannohoaks and the Monocans. Some of these tribes were numerous and powerful, and were subdivided into many clans or cantons.t
The Dela wares and kindi-ed tribes are classified as Algouquins.
At this late day, it is impossible to name the several clans of the Minsi tribe of the Lenni Lenape nation, or to designate with certainty the precise territory occupied by each. Our ancestors were more apt at discovering desirable tracts of land, eligible trading posts, and other things promotive of temporal welfare, than at recording facts which wovdd interest those who now feel an interest in what relates to the red man. There is but Uttle doubt, however, that the Mauuassings occupied that portion of Sullivan county which hes in the vicinity of Peenpack ; that the Esopus Indians (whose native name, it is supposed, was Wamp- ing) owned that part which adjoins Ulstei', and that the Cashieg- tonks were located in the remaining territory of the county. The land of the Manassings extended iuto New Jersey, Penn- sylvania and the adjoining towns of Orange county ; the Wamp- ings hved on the west bank of the Hudson, or Mahicauittuck, from Catskill to Newburgh; while the Cashiegtonks hved on both banks of the Delaware, or Lenapewihittuck, fiom the
* Gordon'B History of New Jersey.
t Loesing's History of the United St«te8.
66 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COlTSTi.
the territory of the Manassings to some point which we cannot designate.*
These clans were sometimes known by other names, and were still further subdivided. A few famihes whose wigwams and cultivated groimds were in the vicinity of a stream or a mountain, often bore the name of that stream or mountain. Accordingly we hear of the Navisings, the Williwemocs, the Lackawack- sings, Wauwausings, Mamekotings. Papagonks, etc.
The territory of the Wampings or Esopus Indians was called by them Atkarkarton.
These tribes and clans find a parallel in our States, counties and tovms ; but were bound together by the ties of good will and sympathy only. There was no law or usage which rendered it obUgatory for one to assist the other in any enter- prise. Thus we find that a portion of the Wappings of Dutchess county and the Manassings participated with the Esopus Indians in the massacre of the Dutch at Kingston, in 1663 ; but in the war which followed, the Esopus tribe was the one which re- ceived all the blows of the Dutchmen. The others abandoned the field as soon as the first effort was made, and shirked all responsibility. A confederation of clans and tribes was a mere rope of sand. WhUe they were inclined to act in concert, they were united for a common purpose ; but the moment a tribe, or even an individual member of it, was dissatisfied and wished to free itseK or himself from any real or fancied engagement, full liberty of action was conceded.
The Indians, practically, had no government, civil or military. They had a civil magistrate known to them as a sachem, it is true ; but he had no more authority to enforce a decree or de- cision, or to cause it to be enforced, than the most contemptible member of his tribe. He coidd advise and persuade only. He was a sage — a wise man — but had no more power than a " stump orator" of our own times. Occasionally the office of sachem was held by females, who by hereditary means, or by a reputa- tion for superior wisdom, acquired an influence over a tribe. Such instances, however, were rare, as squaws were generally considered inferior to the males. According to Thompson's History of Long Island, a squaw sachem was styled " sunk squa," which meant, probably that she was a " tip-top" woman.
The military leaders or chiefs had no more real authority. If they were brave and cimning, and proved themselves com- petent to lead in attacks upon the enemy, they were obeyed and
• This was probably the case when the coontry was first discovered. In March, 1706-7, Nanisinoa, an Esopus sachem, sold land which was bounded on one side by the Delaware river ; but there is reason to beheve that the Delawares who subsequently acknowledged Teedyuscung as their king, denied the right of Nanisinos to sell this land. They declared that the people of Esopus and Minisink had defrauded them, •nd that the country almost to the Hudson was theirs.
THE LENNI LENAPB. fit
followed by the warriors of the tribe. Their authority was founded on public opinion, and when that was against them, they were impotent ; Ibut while it was largely in their favor, their power was despotic. Their whole system was democratic, -with- out any of those elements of permanency and strength which mark that form of government among more civilized races.
They had no written language, unless we may call their picture writings a written language. The more civilized tribes and na- tions had acquired wonderiful skill in recording important matters in this way ; but the zealous Christians who appropriated the golden idols of the Aztecs and Incas, destroyed the symbolic records of the temples, which were the depositaries of the scroUs whereon was traced much of the red man's history.
Among the Indians of the North, this method of preserving historical facts was but little resorted to. Traditions, however, were carefuUy related by the old to the young, and thus was brought down from generation to generation, a dim and some- what uncertain histoir of past events.
The Lenape of Sullivan, as well as other red men, had their stories of olden times, which the gray-haired elders related to their juniors, when the central fire of the lodge glowed bright and ^cheerily during the long evenings of winter. One of these traditions we wiU copy from Gordon's History of New Jersey.
" The Delawares relate, that many centuries a^o, their ances- tors dwelt far in the western wilds ; but emigratmg eastwardly, they anived, after many years peregrination, on the Nnmcesi Sipii (Mississippi,) or river of fish, where they encoimtered the Mengwe (Iroquois,) who had also come from a distant country, and had first approached the river, somewhat nearer its source. The spies of the Lenape reported, that the country on the east of the river was inhabited by a powei-ful nation, dwelling in large towns, erected upon their prmcipal rivers.
" This people were tell and robust ; some of them were said to be even of gigantic mould. They bore ttie name of AlUgewi, from which has been derived that of the Alleghany river and mountains. Their towns were defended by regular fortifications, vestiges of which are yet apparent, in greater or less preserva- tion. The Lenape, requesting permission to establish themselves in the vicinity, were refused; but obtained leave to pass the river, in order to seek a habitation farther to the eastward. But, whilst crossing the stream, the AUigewi, alarmed at their number, assailed and destroyed many who had reached the eastern shore, and threatened a Uke fate to the remainder, should they at- tempt the passage. Fired by this treachery, the Lenape eagerly accepted a proposition from the Mengwe, who had hitherto been spectators of their enteqjrise, to unite with them for the conquest of the country. A war of great duration was thus commenced.
bO HISTORY OF SUUJTAN COUNTY.
which -was prosecuted with great loss on both sides, and eventuated in the expulsion of the Alligewi, who fled from their ancient seats, by way of the Mississippi river, never to return. The devastated country was apportioned among the conquerors ; the Mengwe choosing their residence in the neighborhood of the great lakes, and the Lenape in the lands of the South.
" After some years, duiing which the conquei'ors hved together in much harmony, the hunters of the Lenape crossed the Alle- ghany moimtains, and discovered the great rivers, Susquehanna and Delaware. Exploiing the Skeyiclcby coimtiy, (New Jersey,) they reached the Hudson, to which they gave the name of Ma/iicanittuck. Upon their return to their nation, they described the country they had visited, as abounding in game, fmits, fish and fowl, and destitute of inhabitants. Concluding this to be the home destined for them by the Great Spirit, the tribe estab- Hshed themselves upon the foiu" gi-eat rivers, the Hudson, Delaware, Susquehanna and Potomac, making the Delaware, to which they gave the name of LenapeTviliittuck, (the river of the Lenape) the centre of their possessions.*
"They say, however, that aU of theii- nation who crossed the Mississippi did not reach this country ; and that a part remained west of the Xamoesi Sipu. They were finally divided into three gi-eat bodies ; the larger, one-half of the whole, settled on the Atlantic ; the other half was separated into two parts ; the sti'onger continued beyond the Mississippi, the other remained on its eastern bank.
" The Mengwe hovered for some time on the borders of the lakes, Tvith their canoes, in readiness to fly should the Alligewi retui-n. Having grown bolder, and their numbers increasing, they stretched themselves along the St. Lawrence, and became, on the north, near neiglibors to the Lenape tribes.
"The Mengwe and the Lenape, in the progi'ess of time, be- came enemies. The latter represent the former as treacherous and cruel, pursuing pertinaciously an insidious and destioictive policy toward their more generous neighbors. Dreading the power of the Lenape, the Mengwe resolved, by involving them in war with distant tribes, to reduce tlieu- strength. They com- mitted murders upon the members of one tribe, and induced the injured party to beUeve that they were perpetrated by the Del-
* Delaware bay and river were called bv the Indians, Marisqueton, Makeie- kitton, Makeiekkiskon, and Lenapewihittuck ;" by the Dutch, Zuvdt or South river, Charles river, and Nassau river ; and by the Swedes, New Swedoland alreAm.^'iordim's Odzeiteer. The English gave it the name of Delaware^ in honor of Lord De La Wmt.
W. L. Stone gives another Indian name for the Delaware— Maku-isk-kisknn.— Vide History vf Wyoiniiig.
THE LENNI LENAPE. 69
awares. Expeditions against the latter followed as a matter of course, and their hunters were surprised and slaughtered.
"Each nation or tribe had a particular mark upon its war- clubs, which, placed beside a murdered person, denoted the aggressor. The Mengwe perpetrated a murder in the Cherokee country, and left with the dead body a war-club bearing the insignia of the Lenape. The Cherokees, in revenge, fell suddenly upon the latter, and commenced a long and bloody war. The treachery of the Mengwe was at length discovered, and the Dela wares turned iipon them with the determination to extirpate them. They were the more strongly induced to take this reso- lution, as the cannibal propensities of the Mengwe had reduced them, in the estimation of the Delawares, below the rank of human beings.*
"Hitherto each tribe of the Mengwe had acted under the direction of its particular chiefs ; and, although the nation could not control the conduct of its members, it was made responsible for their outrages. Pressed by the Lenape, they resolved to form a confederation which might enable them better to con- centrate their forces in war, and to regulate theii- affairs in peace. Thannewago, an aged Mohawk, was the projector of this alliance. Under his auspices, five nations, the Mohawks, Oneidas, Onon- dagas, Cayugas, and Senecas, formed a species of republic, governed by the united councils of their aged and experienced sachems and chiefs. To these, a sixth nation, the Tuscaroras, was added, in 1712. This last originally dwelt in the western part of North Carolina ; but having formed a deep and general conspiracy to exterminate the whites, were driven from their country, and adopted by the Iroquois confederaey.f The bene- ficial effects of this system early displayed themselves. The Lenape were checked, and the Mengwe, whose warlilte disposi- tion soon famUiarized them with fire-arms, procured from the Dutch, were enabled, at the same time, to contend with them, to resist the French, who attempted the settlement of Canada, and to extend their conquests over a large portion of the country between the Atlantic and the Mississippi. But, being pressed hard by their new, they became desirous of reconciliation with with their old enemies ; and for this purpose, if the tradition of the Delawares be credited, they effected one of the most extra- ordinaiy strokes of poHcy which history has recorded.
" The mediators between the Lidian nations at war are the women. The men, however weary of the contest, hold it cow-
* The Iroquois or Mengwe Bometimoa ate the bodies of their prisoners.
IHeclewelder, IJ. N. Y. MM. Col., 55. The same charge has been made against the Algonquins, and that they drank their enemies' blood.— See History of Pontiao's War. t Smith's New York.
70 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
ardly and disgraceful to seek reconciliation. They deem it incon- sistent in a warrior, to speak of peace with bloody weapons in his hands. He must maintain a determined courage, and appear at all times as determined and willing to fight as at the com- mencement of hostilities. With such dispositions, Indian wars would be interminable, if the women did not interfere, and per- suade the combatants to bury the hatchet, and make peace with each other. Their prayers seldom failed of the desired effect.
" The function of the peace-maker was honorable and dignified^ and its assumption by a courageous and powerful nation could not be inglorious. This station the Mengwe urged upon the Lenape. ' They had reflected,' they said, ' upon the state of the Indian race, and were convinced that no means remained to preserve it, unless some magnanimous nation would assume the character of the woman. It could not be given to a weak and contemptible tribe; such would not be hstened to; but the Lenape and their allies, would at once possess influence and command respect.'
" The facts upon which these arguments were foimded, were known to the Delawares, and in a moment of blind confidence in the sincerity of the Iroquois, they acceded to the proposition, and assumed the petticoat. The ceremony of the metamor- phosis was performed with gi-eat rejoicmgs at Albany, in the presence of the Dutch, whom the Lenape charge with having conspii-ed with the Mengwe for theur destmction.
" Having thus disarmed the Delawares, the Iroquois assumed over them the rights of protection and command. But, still dreading their strength, they artfidly involved them again in war with the Cherokees, promised to fight their battles, led them into an ambush of their foes, and deserted them. The Delawares, at length, comprehended the treachery of then- arch enemy, and resolved to resume their arms, and being still superior in num- bers, to crush them. But it was too late. The Europeans were now making their way into the country in every dii'ection, and gave ample employment to the astonished Lenape.
" The Mengwe deny these macliinations. They aver that they conquered the Delawares by force of arms, and made them a subject people.* And, although they are unable to detail the ciicumstances of this conquest, it is more rational to suppose it true, than that a brave, numerous and warlike nation should have voluntaiily suft'ered themselves to be disarmed and enslaved by a shallow artifice ; or that, discovering the fraud practiced upon them, they should unresistingly have submitted to its con- sequences. This conquest was not an empty acquisition to the Mengwe. They claimed dominion over all the lands occupied
* LoesiDg says that the Lenni Lenape were conquered by the Iroquois in 1650.
THE LENNI LENAPE. 71
by the Delawares, and, in many instances, their claims were distinctly acknowledged. Parties of the Five Nations occasionally occupied the Lenape country, and wandered over it, at all times, at their pleasure.*
" Whatever credit may be due to the traditions of the Lenape relative to their migration from the West, there is strong evi- dence in support of their pretensions to be considered the source whence a great portion of the Indians of North America was derived."!
Competent judges have pronounced the language of the Del- awares or Lenni Lenape the most perfect of any Lidian tongue.:!: Eev. N. W. Jones, in an interestmg paper contributed to the "Collections of the Ulster Historical Society," says their " language is distinguished by great beauty, strength and flexi- bility. It has the power of compressing a whole sentence into a single word. This is done by taking the most important syllable of each word, and sometimes only single letters, and forming, according to the laws of euphony, a new word, express- ing a variety of ideas, each of wliich is known by its repre- sentative letter or syllable.
"The language of the Minsi differed somewhat from the southern Delawares ; but not enough to be classed as a sepa- rate dialect. It was a little broader, more guttural, and not quite so pleasant to the ear. They have left behind them as mementoes of their existence, names that they gave to moun- tains, streams and localities ; but these are, in many instances, so corrupted that it is dilficult to trace them back to then- Indian origin."
No people, ancient or modern, bestowed more beautiful names on water courses and valleys than the Lenape. Such localities afforded them the greatest pleasure, and therefore they gave them appellations which delight the ear, though it may be long accustomed to perfect euphony, and the most exact rules of rhythm. What words are noted for a sweeter cadence than Mahoning, Wyoming, Osiasing, Wyalusing, Moyamensing, Mamekoting, Shamoking, Mingwing, etc.? Such names dehght the ear as does the rich, sweet harmony of the hermit thrush. Their names of mountains on the other hand are rugged, mass- ive and angular, viz: Shawangimk, Mohunk, Cashiegtouck, Wacchung, Scimnemunk, etc.
Those who profess to be learned in such matters, assert that these and other Indian names have significations or meanings
♦ It is supposed that the Indians who attacked Hudson, when he visited the North Biver, were Iroquois.
t This tradition is borrowed by Gordon from Heckewelder. t Thompson's History of Long Island.
72 HISTORY OF SUUJVAK COUNTY.
which are descriptiye of the several objects to which they belong. This assertion is undoubtedly true ; but the signiilcations have, in a great majority of cases, been lost by the wliites, or have never been kno-mi by them. Some persons, to appear erudite, have invented translations of these names. Thus it has been said that " Shairan" is the Mohegan word for "white salt," and "gunk" for "rocks" or "piles of rocks." These definitions have been adopted by the authors of the " Historical Collections of New York," and also by the learned gentlemen who made a geological survey of the State, notwithstanding " Shawan' is the word of the Algonquins for "southern," and "gunk" or "unk," in the Lenape tongue means "elevation," "top," "up," "ex- alted," etc. Shawangunk should be translated Southern mount- ain.* [See Collections of the Ulster Historical Society.] It may be also said that "ing" or "ink"f generally terminates the names of valleys and streams. " Uck," however, is a suffix," many times, of the names of rivers which empty into the ocean, as the Algonquin name of the Hudson — Shattemuck or Mokicaniftuck ; — of the Delaware — LenapeiviMttuck : of other rivers — Sanga- tiick, Nawjatuck, etc.
No doulDt, many curious but unprofitable questions in regard to the significatiwi of Lenape names, would meet -n-ith satisfac- tory answers, if referred to some intelligent member of the Delaware tribe.
At an early day after the visit of Hudson to the river which bears his name, the Diitch estabhshed trading posts for the purpose of buying from the Indians their valuable furs and pel- tries. One of these posis was at the Manhattans, now New York ; another at Fort Oi-ange, now Albany ; and the third in importance at Sopes or Esopus, now Kingston. It is claimed that they commenced trading at the latter place as early as 1614. Considering the net- work of Indian paths which led to that point, their oi^erations there at so early a day, prove that they were influenced by their proverbial sagacity and good sense.
Between the years 1617 and 1620, it is said, they began to settle at Esopus, as weU as at some other places in New Jersey and New York. J
In 1626, Peter Minuit, the first Dutch governor, arrived, after which the work of colonization went on vigorously. The land occupied by the Hollanders was almost invariably purchased at a price and under circumstances which are considered moral by traders, although it must be confessed that the advantages were
• Shawnee means Southern people. [Hiet. Coll. of Ohio.
t The letters g and k are interchangeable in the Lenape tongue.
[Kev. N. W. Jones. X Gordon's New Jersey.
THE LENNI LENAPE. 73
all on one side. The Dutch did not resolve that the earth was the Lord's ; that he had confen-ed it on his people ; and that they were his people ; and then proceed to take the land from its heathen owners, peaceably or forcibly, as was practicable or necessary. They adopted a more jiidicious and humane mode. They bought the land of the savages, and paid, generally in trinkets and baubles, the least price for which they could get it. Both methods of acqiiii-ing territory amounted to the same thing in the end. The savage lost his possessions and became poor and impotent, while the strange race acquired wealth and dominion.
In 1631, the Dutch West India Company commenced a settle- ment on the Delaware at Lewis Creek, under David Pieterson de Vries, a director of the Company, having two years previously purchased the territory of the Lenape Indians — more than half a century anterior to Penn's famous purchase from the same race of people. After biiilding a trading-house and a fort, De Vries returned to Holland, leaving his infant colony in charge of Giles Osset. As an evidence that the region had been formally taken possession of by his countrymen, Osset caused the arms of the States-General to be painted on a plate of tin, which he posted on a column raised for that purpose. The natives re- garded the bright metal, with its mystic characters, as an object gi-eatly to be coveted, and one of tliem stole it. This act of the ignorant Lenape Osset considered an insult to his nation, and demanded redress so pertinaciously and energetically, that the Indians cut the head fr-om their offending brother, and deliveied it to Osset, who, shocked at what they had done, reprimanded them severely. Instead of hard words, they had no doubt ex- pected a substantial peace offering in the shape of wampum or trinkets. They consequently departed in a dissatisfied mood, and soon after, when the colonists were at work in their fields, murdered them one by one, greeting each as they came to him in a friendly manner. Osset, who had given the offense, was among the first who were massacred. ^
When De Vries returned in 1632, he foiind but the ashes of the dwellings, and the unburied remains of his fi-iends. As he was not in a situation to punish the murderere, he made a new treaty with them. The treacherous Lenape, notwithstanding this treaty, conspired to destroy him and those who accompa- nied him ; but, being warned by a squaw of their designs, he did not fall into the snare laid for him. He then made another treaty ; but in a short time left for Holland, with the colonists who came with him on his last voyage.
This, it should be remembered, is the white man's version. Perhaps, if the Lenape could have kept the record, they would have told of some things which have been omitted by the pale
74 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTT.
face. "We are more inclined to believe that the whde truth has not been handed down to us concerning these and other troubles with the Indians, because, in cases where we Icnow that strict and impartial justice marked the intercourse of the Europeans with the sons of the forest, and an intelligent ^dew was taken of their idiosyncrasies, the whites possessed their unbounded con- fidence and friendship.
Thus, the Swedes, who planted a colony in the Lenape coimtry, on the Delaware, in 1638, and who never wronged the natives, but treated them with Chi-istian charity and love, never had any difficulty with them.* The utmost harmony prevailed as long as the enlightened and just emigi-ants from Swedeland main- tained theii- ground. Gordon says, the Swedes "refrained from every species of injury to the natives, cultivated theii- favor by a just and Uberal commerce, supplying them -ndth articles suitable to their wants, and employed all fiiendly means to ^ia them to the Christian faith. The result of these measm-es was such as they should have produced. The savage was disarmed by respect and gratitude."
It does not appear, however, that these worthy men made much progress in converting the Delawares to Christianity. Grahame relates, that "the Indians sometimes attended the rehgious assembUes of the Swedes ; but with so Httle edification, that they expressed their amazement that one man should detain his tribe with such lengthened harangues, without ofleriag to entertain them \^'ith brandy." And AcreHus tells us that "the ire of the Indians on one occasion, was particularly directed against the pastor, who, speaking alone dm-iug di^^ine sei-vice, was supposed to exhort his audience to hostility against them." A speedy explanation quieted their suspicions.t
The Quakers claim that the pacific poHcy of the government of Pennsylvania for many years met -n-ith equal favor from the simple and savage Lenape. And the settlers of Miuisink — a mere handful of men, suiTounded by the Delawares, and wholly in their power, gave the Indians no cause for complaint, and enjoyed their friendship, until landsharks and unprincipled traders stripped the natives of theii- possessions.
Penn's celebrated purchase of the Lenape, in 1682, however, was no "new thing under the sun." The people of New York and New Jersey were as careful to extinguish the Indian titles to lands as the Proprietors of Pennsylvania, and they exercised
* It ii supposed by &ome, that the Swedes explored the Delaware, as far as Cochecton, and were the first white men who visited this county. The cortlial triendghip main* tained by them with the Indians renders the supposition quite plausible.
t All authors agree, that the Swedes complained more of the mosquitoes than the savages, and that they were driven from one of their forts by these bloodthirsty and remorseless insects. [See Gordon's History of New Jersey, p. 14.
THB LENNI LENAPE, 75
this care long before Penn owned an acre of land in America. In 1682, laws were in force in both New York and New Jersey, under which no man could acquire real estate as long as the native title was not extinguished by purchase or treaty. ' Tis true, dishonest men evaded the intention of the laws of those colonies ; and so they did under the Quaker government of Penn- sylvania. Penn himseK did not pay the Lenape a tithe of a tithe of what their lands were actually worth. It has been said by the admirers of the Quakers, that they Uved at peace with the Lenape from 1682 to 1755, in consequence of their superior honesty. Tlie Lenape were atjmice u>ith all the ivorld during that time, and when war oroke out in 1755, their complaints against the Proprietors of Pennsylvania were exceedingly bitter. The Quakers had a true Puritanical appreciation of their own right- eous dealings with the Indians, and magnified tiieir own merits accordingly. Such is history stripped of its ornaments, and in plain drab !
From the first, the Dutch supplied the Iroquois confeder- ates with arms, which led to the supremacy of the latter over the Lenape and other tribes. It was a master-stroke of policy^ and was adopted to the fullest extent at a later period by the Enghsh. By securing the good-will and rendering the power of the Six Nations invincible, the natives of the interior became a bulwark against the French, and a scourge to the Lenape of the fi-ontier. From this cause alone, the Lenape were reduced by the haughty and pampered Iroquois to the condition of squaws, and were compelled to wear the metaphorical petticoat. They could not withstand the muskets of the Mengwe on the one side, while they were assailed by the whites on the other.
They were a brave, proud and haughty race when assailed by foes ; but as affectionate and loving as children in the absence of wrong or the suspicion of it. For ages they had gloried in then- exploits while waging war with the Iroquois ; consequently when the Dutch at Fort Orange (Albany) fui-nished the Mo- hawks with fire-arms, and refused to treat the Minsis at Fort Amsterdam (New York) in the same manner, the latter con- sidered it an insult to their nation, and a sufiicient cause of war. , Hence, when Thomas Chambers and others removed fi-om Reusselaers^vyck to Esopus in 1652, they were driven off by the Wampings, or, as the Dutch called them, Waranawankongs. These settlers returned, however, in 1657, and at first were immolested.* Soon, however, under the influence of rum, the natives became quarrelsome, and killed one of the settlers, burned the buildings of another, and forced others to plough
* Ruttenber's History of Newburgh. In 1656, we find on Tan der Donk's Map of New Netlierland, the district lying between Murderer's creek and Esopus marked at the territory of the Waranawankongs.
7b HISTORY OF SL'LIJV.XJS' COrSTY.
their (the Indians') cultivated lauds. In consequence of these irregularities, Governor Stujvesant visited Esoiras with a num- ber of soldiers, and summoned the chiefs before him. A treaty of peace was patched up, and a grant of land acqiiired by the Dutch fi-om the original owners. But the peace was of short duration ; for the Governor's presence was again necessary in the succeeding year, (1658,) when he demanded all the Esopus lands which had been explored by the Dutch. These lands were much prized by the natives of Esopus, as they were well adapted to their moSe of cultivation ; hence it is not surprising that the chiefs refused to part with them, and retired from the conference. The sttu'dy Governor, however, took possession of the lands, and built a fort to hold them. This maddened the red men, and theii- rage was rendered furious soon after by a wanton and causeless outrage. A number of Indians had completed a job of husking com for Thomas Chambers, when they asked for and obtained a quantity of brandy. A carouse followed, dm-ing which some Dutchmen murdered one of the drunken Indians, and wounded two others. This cowardly act was fol- lowed by the war-whoop, and the investment of the settlement by over foiu- huudi-ed dusky wan-iors, who destroyed the houses, bams and crops of the whites, and took eight or ten prisoners, who were biimed at the stake. The Governor was once more sent for, and came with an aimed force. At his approach, the red men fled to the woods, where they were not followed in consequence of heavy rains. However, through Mohegan and TVapping chiefs, a truce was eifected.
In the spring of 1660, hostilities were renewed vigorously. An Indian castle at "Wiltmeet was plnBdered and destroyed, and sev- eral savages made prisoners. The Indians then sued for peace and proposed to exchange prisoners, Refusing to listen to their overtures, Stuyvesant, to tenify them still more, sent several captive chiefs, who were in his hands, to Ciu-aooa, as slaves. Hostilities continued. The Dutch forces swept the adjacent country, and penetrating the district of the Papagonks, took their castle, and slew Preumanaker, the oldest and best of then- chiefs, who was too old to flee with his people. " What do you here, dogs?" he asked defiantly, as he aimed an arrow at the soldiers, with hands trembling from age. He was seized and disarmed, and being too infirm to foUow the pai-ty on foot, was subsequently killed with his own tomahawk.
The clans now held a councU, and Sewackenamo, the Esopus chief, asked the wishes of the assemblage. " We wiU fight no more," replied the warriors. "We wish to plant in peace, and live in quiet," said the squaws. "We will kill no more hogs and fowls," answered the yoimg men. The wish for peace being general, the Esopus chief visited the Hackinsacks, who were
THE LENNI LENAPE. 77
friends of the Dutch, aud through them once more sued for peace. Stuvvesaut again met the chiefs at Esopus, again made an extravagant demand for huid, and this time his demand was acceded to. During the negotiations, the Indians asked that then- eushived chiefs sliould be restored ; but, as they had be- come the chattels of Dutchmen in a far-olf colony, Stuyvesant rephed that they must be considered dead. Although deeply grieved at this answer, the chiefs agi-eed to the treaty, and de- parted.*
Three years of peace followed. The Indians carried out the terms of the treaty until the Dutch began to trespass on their lands at Hurley, where they built a village which they caUed Niew Dorp or village, on lauds outside the gi-ant made in 1660. Threats of vengeance were again muttered, which were quickly followed by what is known as the second Esopus war, the his- tory of which we will now give.
To be more certain of success, the Esopus clans endeavored to get the Wappings of Dutchess, and the Manassing clans to join them, and succeeded partially. While plotting to destroy the Dutch of Esopus, they covered their designs with the mask of fi-ieudship, and only two days preceding the attack on Wiltwick and the Niew Dorp, luUed the suspicions of ihe whites with propositions for a new treaty.
On the 7th of June, 1663, 9 Wappings, 30 Manassings and about 160 of the Esopus Indians, entered the two villages, in the forenoon, from different points, brmging with them small quantities of maize and beans, Avhich they carried to everjr quarter of the villages, under pretense of selling them. In this manner they hoped that they could seize a favorable moment, and exterminate the unsuspecting settlers.
After they had been in Kingston about fifteen minutes, some people on horseback rode into the village furiously, exclaiming, " The Inthans have destroyed the New Village !" (Hurley). On hearing this, the savages immediately fired their guns, and then commenced hewing down the villagers with axes and tomahawks. They also continued to fire upon them fi-om various quarters.
The village was set on fire on the windward side, aud soon a disastrous conflagration was in prospect, when, the wind provi- dentially changed, and the progress of the flames was arrested. Houses were plundered, and women and children taken prisoners aaid hurried beyond the village gates.
There were not at the time seventy-five able-bodied men Hving in Kingston, aud a large portion of them were at work on their farms beyond the limits of the village. Those who were there, though a majority of tliem had neither guns nor side-arms, were
* We haTe quoted largely from Ruttenbei's HiBtoiy of Newburgh.
78 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
soon rallied by Captain Thomas Chambers, (who was suffering from a wound,) and the savages, although numbering at least four to one, were driven away.
In the evening, when all had come in from their farms, and the refugees from Hurley had arrived, it was found that only sixty-nine efficient men could be mustered.
In this affair the savages killed, in Kingston, 12 men, 4 women, and 2 children ; at Hurley, 3 men — total, 21.* At Kingston, they took 5 women and 5 children prisoners ; and at Hurley, 1 man, 8 women and 26 children — total, 45. In Kingston, 8 men were wounded, one of whom died from his wounds, and 12 houses were biunt. The "New Village" was entirely destroyed, except one uncovered bam.
The blow was a terrible one to the settlers, and was deeply felt, and amply avenged. Well might Hermanns Blom, the first Dutch clergyman of Esopus, exclaim: "O! my bowels! my bowels! I am pained at my heart! for the dead lay as sheaves behind the mower."
On the 16th of the same month, an unimportant skirmish took place on the road fi-om Kingston to Rondout, in which one white man was killed and six wounded. After this, the Indians at no time made a stand; but were hunted Hke wild beasts by soldiers sent from Manhattan (New York). These soldiers were under the command of Captain Martin Kregier, and were accompanied by some Long Island Indians. The force emploj'ed, including the Esoi^ias volunteers, numbered about 275. Scoiiting parties were sent out in every direction in which it was supposed hostUe Indians could be found. The savages were killed, taken captive, or pursued from mountain to mountain. Their crops and food were destroyed, and their wigwams burned. Some of these ex- peditions extended into the hmits of SuUivan, as we shall see in a future page.
Among the prisoners captured by the Indians at Hurley, was Catharine Blanchan, the wife of Lewis Du Bois. She and' three other females were taken to the wigwams of their captors, on the Shawangunk or Assinink creek, 51 stream which forms a part of the eastern boundary of the town of Mamakating. From an Indian prisoner, Mr. Du Bois learned that by following "the first Big "Water, to where another Big Water emptied into it ; then the second to where a third Big Water was met ; and then the last to a certain landmark, he would find the captives." These Big Waters were the Rondout, the Walldll and the Shawangunk or Assinink.
Mr. Du Bois speedily induced several of his friends to join
THE LENNI LENAPE. 79
him in an attempt to rescue his wife and her companions. They followed the direction of the savage, and found that he had given a correct description of the route. They pressed onward eagerly and anxiously, Du Bois in advance of the others. He yerj nearly fell a victim to his impetuosity. As they were ascending the Shawangunk, he discovered an Indian secreted behind a tree in the act of firing upon him. The arrow, luckily, missed its mark, when Du Bois instantly sprang upon the savage, and slew him with his sword. Soon after they came in sight of the objects of their search.
The conduct of the savages had led the captives to behev© that they were to be put to death — burnt at the stake — a fate which very few, if any women, have met at the hands of the red man. While the Indians were piling fagots, these truly Chris- tian ladies, it is said, in view of the terrible death which they beheved awaited them, sang the 137th Psalm in the Keformed Dutch Church Collection,* which we copy here as probably the first Christian song heard on the banks of the Shawangunk :t
By Babel's stream the captives sate, And wept for Zion's hapless fate : Useless their harps on wUlows himg. While foes required a sacred song.
With taunting voice and scornful eye, " Sing us a song of heaven," they cry : " While foes deride our God, and King, How can we tune our harps or sing?
" If Zion's woes our hearts forget. Or cease to mourn for Israel's fate, Let useful skill our hands forsake ; Our hearts with hopeless sorrow break.
" Thou, ruin'd Salem, to our eyes Each day, in sad remembrance rise ! Should we e'er cease to feel thy wrongs, Lost be our joys, and mute our tongues!
" Kemember, Lord, proud Edom's sons, Who cried, exulting at our groans. While Salem trembled at her base, ' Ease them : her deep foundations rase.' "
» Marot's French Psalma. We have substituted a translation of the original.
t The foaiB of these excellent Christian ladies were baseless. The aborigines never bui-ued female prisoners at the stake, or made them the rlctims of lust, except under the cover of mai-riage.
OU HISTORY OF SULLIA-iN COUNTT.
Wliile thus they sang, the moiu-ners view'd Their foes by Cyrus' arm subdued, And saw his glory rise, who spread Their sti-eets, aud fields, -with hosts of deai
Pleas'd, they foresaw the blest deo'ee, That set theu- tribes from bondage free ; Eenew'd the temple, and restor'd The sacred worship of the Lord.
Tradition says the savages were charmed with the music, and delayed the execution of the singers while they Ustened. But deHverance was at hand. A panic seized the red men. They discovered the whites, and fled for the mountains. The captives, at first, not knowiug the cause of alarm, ran after them. But soon tliey heard behind them the .shouting of well-known voices, and turning, they flew to the aims of their husbands.
After spending the night at the camping-gi-ound of the In- dians, where they rendered themselves comfortable by a good fii-e made -v^ith the fagots gathered by the Indians, the party returned to then- homes.*
During this expedition, Mr. Du Bois discovered the great richness of the valley of the "Walkill ; and thi-ee year's afterwards he and eleven others bought of the native proprietors 144 square miles of the fat lands of that region, for which they obtained a patent.
On the 26th of July, 162 Dutchmen, 41 Long Island Indians, and 7 negi'oes left Kingston to attack the savages at their fort,, about 30 miles distant, "mostly" in a south-west direction. They had as guide a woman who had been a prisoner of the savages, and took ■ft'ith them two pieces of cannon, and two wagons. Each man was proA-ided ^dth two pounds of hard bread and one-haK of a soft loaf, two pounds of pork and one- half of a Dutch cheese. Theu- progi'ess was slow, as they were obhged to bridge the streams, and haul theu- camion and wagons up and down the mountains with ropes. On the second day, they found it necessary to leave the cannon, when within "a short mile" of the fort. They intended to surprise the enemy in the latter ; but fovuid it abandoned, and succeeded in ttddng but one red-skin — a squaw.
The next foi-enoon, guided by the squaw, they sent 140 men to hunt tlie Lidians on the mountains ; but finding it impossible to overtake or surprise sluj, they ret»irn6d, and for two days and a half the whole party employed themselves in destroying the
THE LENNI LENAPE. 81
growing crops and the old maize of the Indians. The latter was stored in pits. Over 200 acres of corn, and more than 100 pits of com and beans were rendered worthless by the invaders. The savages witnessed these operations from the neighboring hills and mountains, but made no resistance.
On the 31st, the fort and all the houses of the Indians were burned, after which the party retui-ned to Kingston. It is sup- posed that this fort was on the head-waters of the Kerhonkson.
After this expedition, the savages proceeded to build a new fort, thirty-six miles south-south-west from Kingston, and prob- ably on the Shawangunk or Assinink, in the town of Mama- kating.* To this foi-t Captain Kregier resolved to foUow them, and on the 3d of September he marched for it with fifty-five men and an Indian guide of the Wapping tribe. After marching two days, he came to their first maize field, where he discovered two squaws and a Dutch woman gathering corn. He says in his journal:
"As the creek lay between us and the cornfield, though we would fain have the woman, it was impossible to ford the stream without being seen and then discovered. We therefore adopted the resolution to avoid the cornfield and the road, and tmned into the woods so as not to be seen. About 2 o'clock in the afternoon we came within sight of their fort, which we discovered on a lofty plain. Divided our forces in two — Lieutenant Cowen- hoven and I led the right wing, and Lieutenant Stilwil and En- sign Nilssen the left wing. Proceeded in this disposition along the hill so as not to be seen, and in order to come right under the fort ; but as it was somewhat level on the left side of the fort, and the soldiers were seen by a squaw who was piling wood there, and who sent forth a terrible scream, which was heard by the Indians who were standing and working near the fort, we instantly feU upon them. The Indians nished thi'ough the fort towards their houses, which stood about a stone's throw fi-om the fort, in order to secure their- arms, and thus hastily picked up a few guns and bows and arrows ; but we were so hot at their heels that they were forced to leave many of them behind. We kept up a sharp fire on them, and pursued them so closely that they leaped into the creek which ran in fi'ont of the lower part of their maize land. On reaching the opposite side of the kill, they courageously returned our fire, which we sent back, so that we were obhged to send a party aci'oss to dislodge them.
"In this attack the Indians lost theii- chief, named Papequan- aeken, fourteen other wan-iors, four women and three childi'en, whom we saw lying both on this and the other side of the creek ;
the supposition that the new fort waB in the iowa of
OZ HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
but probably many more were wounded when rushing from the fort to tlie hoiises, when we did give them a brave charge. On our side, three were killed and six wounded, and we have recov- ered twenty-three Christian prisoners out of their hands. We have also taken thirteen of them prisoners, both men and women, besides an old man who accompanied us about half an hoiu', but would not go farther. We took him aside and gave him his lad meal. A captive Indian child died on the way, so that eleven of them still remain our prisoners."
The enemy being defeated, a council of war was held by the officers, and the question submitted whether they should destroy the maize of the savages. As they had six wounded men ancl but five horses, it was necessary to carry one of the wounded on a litter with gi-eat trouble. More might be injured while cutting and spoihng the com, whose removal would cause much incon- venience, and therefore it was resolved that the maize should not be cut at that time.
The houses were found to contain a large quantity of bear, ellc and deer skins, notassin, blankets and other things highly prized by the Indians, inchiding kettles, twenty-five gtms, twenty pounds of powder, considerable wampum, etc. "A sloop could have been filled with them ;" but as no such vessel ever had ascended the Shawangiink, the Dutchmen took with them what they could conveniently carry, and destroyed the remainder.
Captain Kregier says, "the fort was a perfect square, with one row of paHsades set all round, being about fifteen feet above, and three feet under gi-ound. They had already completed two angles of stout palisades, aU of them almost as thick as a man's body, ha-ving two rows of port-holes, one above the other ; and they were busy at the third angle. These angles were con- structed so solid and strong as not to be excelled by Christians."
Until the previous night, the prisoners had been concealed every evening in the woods — each time in a difterent place — where they were kept until morning. But on the day before the attack, a Mohawk had visited the savages, and advised them to let the captives remain in the fort at night, as the Dutch could not come so far without being discovered. The advice was fol- lowed ; but the result proved that it was not good for the Indians.
Nothing remarkable occun-ed during the homeward jouniey, except the murder of the old Indian, and the death of the pa- poose. The body of the latter was thrown into a creek.
The route to this fort is described as " somewhat stony and hiUy; but the road (an Indian one) for the greater part good."
On the 2d of October, Captain Kregier \isited this fort again, with 108 whites and 46 Marseping Indians. He found five large pits near the fort into which the Esopus Indians had cast their
THE LENNI LENAPE. 83
dead. The wolves had dug up and devoured some of the car- casses. Near the creek were four other pits full of dead Indians, and further on were the unburied remains of three men, a sqiiaw and a child, which had been almost entirely devoured by crows and wolves.
A party of Dutchmen and Indians were immediately sent twelve miles in a south-westerly direction, where it was supposed some Indians would be found. This party must have peneti-ated Mamakating valley, at a point south of Wurtsborough, and very near the territory of the Manassings. Nothing was found there except some wigwams which had been a long time deserted.
The fort of the Indians and their com and wigwams were all destroyed. About two days were spent in the work of demoli- tion. The part}' then returned without having seen an enemy.* The Indians who were located here must have been numerous.
This virtually terminated the war. The savages knowoi as Esopus Indians were completely cowed. Their principal war- riors were slain — their wigwams burned — and every ounce of food which the Dutchmen could lay their hands upon, was de- stroyed. Starvation and an inclement winter were before them, and the ruthless and merciless Dutch soldiers everywhere at their heels.
A truce followed in December. The savages, destitute of food and shelter, except what was given them by the Manas- sings and other friendly clans, must have suffered" much during the ensuing winter. Probably more perished from destitution before peace was secured than by the snaphance carbines of the Dutchmen.
In May, 1864, they sued for peace, and made a treaty of friendship. t It was never broken by the Esopus clans, which in time became extinct by vices which they learned from the whites, and by absorption into other Lenape tribes.
On the 3d of the follo-«-ing September, New Amsterdam passed fi-om its Dutch filers to the hands of the EngUsh, and became the royal colony of New York, with NicoUs, its conqueror, as Oovernor. Governor NicoUs, soon after he came into power, made a treaty witli the " original people" of Ulster and Sullivan, a copy of M'hich may be found in the Historical Collections of the former county.
* Doctunentary History of New York, t liOasing's United States.
«i HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
TEEATY
Between Colonel Richard Nicolls, Governor of New York, and the Esopus Indians, 1665.
[From the oiiginal in the Ulster County Clerk's Office.]
"An Agreement made between Richard NicoUs, Esq., Governor under his Boyall Highnesse, the Dulce of Yorke, and the Sa- chems and People called the Sopes Indyans.
" That no Act of Hostillity shall at any time bee committed on either part, or if any damage shall happen to bee done by either party, to the Corne, Cattle, Horses, Hoggs, Houses, or any other Goods whatsoever, of the other party, full satisfaction shall be given upon demand for the same.
" That if any Christian shall wilfully kill an Indyan, or any Indyan a Chi-istian, hee shall bee put to death. And the said Sachems do promise on their parts, to bring any such Indyan to ye Officer in charge at the Sopiis, to receive his punishment there.
"That a convenient House shall bee built where the said In- dyans may at any time Lodge without the Ports of said To^-ne, in which House ye Indyans are to leave their Armes, and may come without molestason, to Sell or Buy what they please from the Chi'istiaus.
"That in Case any Christian should kiU an Indyan, or any Indyan a Christian, the Pease shall not bee broaken, or any Re- venge taken, before Satisfaction is demanded by the one party, and refused by the other, allo-n-ing a competent time for the apprehending of the Offender, in which Case ye Indyans are to
Sve Hostage, till ye Offender is brought to Punishm't, the said ostage (wUl be ivdl Treated and suffer) no other Pimishment, but Imprisonment.
" That the said Sachems and their Subjects now present, do for and in the names of themselves and their heires forever, give. Grant, Alienate, and confirme all their Eight and Interest, Claime or demand, to a certame ParceU of Land, Ij-ing and being to the West and South "West, of a certjiine Creeke or River called by the name of Kahanksen, and so up to the head thereof, where the old Fort was. And so with a direct Line fi-om thence, through the woods, and Crosse the Meadowes, to tlie Great Hill, lying and being to the West, or South West, which Great Hill is
THE LENNI LENAPE. 85
to bee the true "West, or Southwest Bounds of the said Lands, and the said Creeke called Kahanksen, the North, or North East Bounds of the said Lands herein mentioned to bee given, granted and confirmed, unto the said Richard Nicolls, Goremor under his Royall Highnesse the Duke of Yorke, or his Assignes, by the said Sachems and their Subjects forever, to hold and Enjoy the same as his free Land and Possession, against any clayme hereafter to be made by the said Sachems, or their Sub- jects, or any their heires and Successors. In token of the afore- said Agreem't, the said Sachems do dehver two Small Sticks ; and in confirmation thereof, do deliver two more small Sticks, to the said Richard Nicolls, And in the name of the Indyans their Subjects, and of the Subjects do dehver two other roimd Small Sticks, in token of their assent to the said Agi-eoment, And the said Richard Nicolls does dehver (as a present) to their Sachems, three laced Redd Coates.
" The said Sachems doth Engage to come once every yeare, and bring some of their young People, to Acknowledge every part of this Agi-eemenfin the Sopes, to the end that it may be kept in perpetual memory.
"That all past Injuryes are buiyed and forgotten on both
" That the yoimg Sachem called Wingeesinoe, hath Liberty for three yeares, to Plant upon a Small neck of Land over against a Small Creeke Choughkawokanoe, unless the said young Sachem bee warned off by order to remove, and give place to such Chris- tians, as shall have Order from the said Richard NicoUs, or liis Assignes, to plant there, at which time, the said young Sachem is to receive a blankett, by way of Courtosie, and to remove to the other side of the Creeke without delay, or Clayming any future interest thereupon.
" In consideration of the premises, the said Richard Nicolls doth faither give, and pay to the said Sachems, and their Sub- jects, forty Blanketts, Twenty Pounds of Powder, Twenty Knives, Six Kettles, Twelve Barrs of Lead, which Paym't we acknowledM to have rec'd in full satisfaccon for the Premisses, And do biude our selves, our heires and Successors for ever, to pforme every part of this Agreement, -without any fraud or reservason of minde. And further. That we will maintaine and Justifie the said Richard NicoUs, or his Assigns, in the fuU peacable Possession of the said Tract of Land, Roaltyes and Priviledges for ever, against any nation of Indyans whatsoever, pretending right to the same ; In testimony whereof, wee have sett our markes, to two several
Ob fflSTORY OF SXILLIVAN COUNTY.
wi-itings, the one to remaine in the hands of the Sopes Sachems, the other upon Record at New Yorke, this 7th day of October^
1665. ElCHAKD NlCOLLS.
Sachims :
Jeremias Van Renslaer, The mark of Onackatin X PprLip PiETERsoN ScHUYLER, The mark of Waposhequiqua K Robert Nedh.vm, The mark of Sewakonama X
S. Salisbury, The m^-k of Shewatim X
Edw. Sackvile.
" Indian "Witnesses of the
Esopiis Young men :
r Pepunckhais 'X
mi 1 £ I Robin Cinnailan X a Pekoct Sachem,
The mark of-, j,j^^^^^^^^^^^
[ Byavackus X
" Sep. 25, 1669 There ajDpeared the second and thii-d Sachems above names and owned their marks :
Witness : Mechdcoah, his mark X ."
For several years, the sachems and young men of the tribe appeared occasionally at Esopus to renew and confii-m the treaty.
In 1706-7, Nanisinos, the jDrincipal sachem of the Esopus In- dians sold the territory covered by the Hardenbergh Patent, as will more fiiUy appear in another chapter.
At the breaking out of "the French and Indian war," the Lenni Lenape were a degi'aded people. They had lost the manly and entei-prising spirit of the brave and energetic men who had led then- ancestors from the far West, through blood and fire. In the figui-ative language of the Indians, their legs Avere shortened. They were women. The tomahawk was taken from them. A hoe was placed in their hands. They were poiuiders of samp, and not warriors. Plumes of the war eagle were not for them. Tliey were slaves.
For many years, their conquerors had grown more and more exacting. At first they were permitted by the Mengwe to liold or sell their lands.* But now the Six Nations claimed the ab- solute ownership of all the territory they occupied, and sold it to the whites at their pleasure. If the Lenape complained of the conduct of the colonists in regard to land aft'au-s, the}- were rudely ordered by the Mengwe not to meddle in such matters,
* All the lands of Orange, Sullivan and Ulsttr counties were purchased of the Lenap* and not of the Iroquois.
THE LENNI LENAPB — FRENCH WAB. 87
as they no longer had a right in the soil. 'Tis true, the whites generally paid them for lands as well as the dominant Indian race ; but the Mengwe always received the largest price. The latter, too, were generally employed to assist the white man in battle. They were his especial favorites, and their claims to superiority over the Lenape acknowledged in council and in war.
As early as 1724, a portion of the Lenape, with a few of their kindi-ed of the Shawanee tribe, removed from then- ancient seats on the Delaware and Susquehanna to Ohio.* There they con- tinued their intercourse with EugHsh traders ; and there, too, they met the French, and became more intimately associated with certain Algonquin tribes which had become proteges and aUies of the polished and cunning Gauls. The French, with those seductive apphances for which they are famous, endeavored to win the new-comers to their interests. They welcomed them in the most cortlial and kind manner — professed an ardent de- sire to promote their welfare and happiness, and proceeded to plant in their minds the seeds of distrust and discontent.
The Frenchmen told them that the Enghsh and the Mengwe were tlie authors of all theii- misfortunes ; that the one bound them in chains, while the other robbed them ; that they should be fi-eed from the domination of those who claimed them as slaves, and from the fi-auds of the British traders; that they were strong and brave, and worthy to follow the war-path ; and that if they would fight under the French banner, they would regain then- ancient renown and freedom.
The Lenape could boast of nothing except the exploits of their ancestors, in times so remote that tradition pointed to them with a very misty and uncertain finger ; but the memory of a glorious past was cherished by them ; and a people with a histoiy of which they are proud, are not hopelessly debased. Tlieir forefathers had conquered and destroyed magnificent cities, and expelled fi'oni their strongholds a mighty race. And why should not the great deeds of the olden time be re-enacted by the descendants of heroes?
The simple-hearted Lenape listened to the words of the de- sigjiing Gauls and repeated what they had heard to the Algon- quins of the Susquehanna and the Delaware, where they magnified the prowess, kindness and generosity of their new friends, and thus won some to, and prepossessed others in favor of the French. A new era was dawning in the history of the Lenape — an era of carnage and blood. Ninety years of peace with the pale faces were to be followed by a ferocious war, which lasted, with here and there a short intermission, for forty years.
t Doc. Hist, of New York.
88 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
Soon controversies began in regard to titles to lands and frauds in the exchange of other property. In these controver- sies, Teedyuscimg* the principal sachem of tlie Lenape, took part with a pertinacity which terminated only -ssith his tragical death in 1763. He was a sagacious ruler, and a devoted friend of his people, whose cause he advocated under the most dis- couraging circumstances.
About 1740, the Lenape's complaints concerning the sales of their lands began to attract attention. They asserted that the EngHsh did not sometimes pay them all they had agreed to; that they generally took possession of twice as much as they bought ; and that where they compHed with the letter of their agreements, the/overreached the natives in a very reprehensible manner. One of their modes of obtaining a larger tract of land than the Lenape intended to convey is noticed in Lossing's Field Book of the Revolution. They conveyed a territory to the "Proprietors of Pennsylvania," the boundaries of which were to extend a certain distance on the Delaware or Great Pishkill river, and as far back, in a north-west direction, as a man could travel in a day and a half. The Indians no doubt intended that the dej^th of the tract should be about fifty miles — the distance a man would usually walk in the time specified; but the purchasers employed the best pedestrians in the colonies, who did not stop by the way even to eat while running the Hne! The expiration of the "day and a half" found them eighty-six miles in the interior ! The Indians were very indignant at the manner in which the "Proprietors" had overreached them, and boldly charged them with deception and dishonesty.f
The " Proprietors" claimed that they had become the o'WTiers of the lands within the Forks of the Delaware. They alleged that the Lenape had sold that region soon after the great pur- chase of William Penn, and that the Lidians were frdly paid for it. To this the latter demun-ed, and Teedyuscung could never be induced to admit that the sale was vahd, or that his people had received a stipulated consideration for the land. In 1742, the "Proprietors" succeeded in haAang the case laid before the Six Nations, who, after hearing the parties, decided that the dis- puted territory could not be sold by the Lenape, as they were a conquered people, who had lost their right in the soU, which, if it did not belong to the straight-coated Quakera, was the prop- erty of the Mengwe. The Lenape, being women, M'ere severely censured for meddling in land affairs, and were ordered to do so no more. They were directed to remove from the Forks of the
* Sassoon was king of the Lenapo tribes in 1718. Ta-de-me (Query : Tammany ?) was tlie immediate predeceBsor of Teedyuscung. t Tom Quick and the Pioneers.
THE LENNI LENAPE — FEENCH WAR. 89
Delaware, and go to Wyoming and Juniata, and hunt west of the Blue HiUs.
They removed accordingly; but renewed their complaints, and pressed their claims to the lands in question for more than twenty years, as we shall see in subsequent pages.
Soon the white settlers began to crowd the Algonquins of the Susquehanna; and when the former, in 1754, began to survey lands which they claimed to own in that vaUey, some of the Indians removed to Ohio, and joined their brethren who had become attached to the French, while others, under a chief named Shecaleny, destroj^ed several houses at Shamoldn, and compelled the surveyor to leave.
The great purchase made by Pennsylvania of the Onondaga council in 1755, and the erection of a fort on the Susquehanna, caused still more uneasiness among the Lenape. Even a portion of the Mengwe were dissatisfied, particiilarly those who lived in the vicinity of the French posts on the Ohio.
From constant nursing, the sores of the Lenape became greatly enlarged. They commenced by alleging that they had been wi'onged in regard to the Forks of the Delaware ; but they finally came to the conclusion that they continued to be the true owners of the country almost to the Hudson river, in New York and New Jerse}', and also of Bethlehem and the lands west of it. They also declared that the whites had spoiled their hunting- grounds ; that they destroyed the deer with iron traps ; and that the traders of Minisink ahvaj'S made the Indians drunk when they took their, peltries there, and cheated them wliile they wex-e intoxicated. They even re-opened wounds which had been closed for a quarter of a century. Among other grievances, they cited the death of Weequehelah, a Lenape sachem, who was executed in 1728, for actual murder, and who had had a legal trial. He was an Indian of great note, and resided on the Delaware river, where he had an extensive farm, with cattle, horses and negi-oes, and raised large ci-ops of wheat. His house was well provided with Enghsh furniture, and his taste was much above that of his race. He frequently dined with governors and other great men, and behaved well ; but getting into a contro- versy with a white man (Captain John Leonard) about the title to a swamp, he assassinated Leonard, while the latter was walk- ing in his garden.* Although Weequelielah had conformed generally to the customs of civihzed life, he was still a savage.
Another giievance of which the Lenape complained was, that the colonists never employed them in war. The Mengwe was always found by the side of the pale face in the hour of danger, and shared his perils and his triumphs ; but the Lenape was
* Smith's New Jersey.
90 HISTORY OF SUIilVAN COUNTY.
left to pine at home with women and cliildi-en. The Mengwe's dogs were more honored by the English than the most brave and noble members of an ancient people — the progenitors of many nations. This was most gaUing to the pride and self- respect of the Lenape, especially when it was presented to them, in an odious light by deceitful Frenchmen and theii- agents.
It is not sui^jrising, therefore, that some of the eastern Dela- wares and their confederates, the Shawanees, when hostilities commenced between France and England, seemed anxious to- take the field against the French; and that they threatened^ that, if not thus employed, they would unite -with the enemy. If their desire to enlist under the EngUsh flag had been gi-atified at this time, a dii'eful calamity would have been averted. But the apphcation of the Lenape and their menaces were aUke dis- regarded. 'Tis true, the government and people of Pennsylvania had endeavored to secure the good will of the Delawares by loading two of their chiefs, Shingas and Captain Jacobs, with favors ; but the intrigues of the French — their newly-awakened love of war — their thirst for blood and plunder,, and a long list of real or supposed grievances which were unredressed, oven-uled aU other considerations. Shingas and Jacobs openly espoused the cause of the French, and were among those who carried the tomahawk and fii-e into the frontier settlements. Their conduct greatly exasperated the Pennsylvanians, who, with the approba- tion of the Governor, offered seven hundred dollars for their heads.
After the defeat of General Braddock, on the banks of the Monongahela, in July, 1755, the Shawanees and the Lenape uuburied the bloody hatchet, and hurled it against the fi-ontier settlements of the colonists. That defeat, so discreditable to the mihtary prowess and skill of the soldiers of Great Britain, entii-ely destroyed the influence of the Enghsh with those tribes.
The first blow was felt on the western lines of Virginia and Maryland. The enemies of the Quaker government of Pennsyl- vania alleged that that colony at fii'st would do nothing to pro- tect their neighbors of Virginia and Maryland, and that the disciples of Fox adhered firmly to their principles of peace until theii- own hearth-stones were stained with blood, when they caused the war to be prosecuted with energy. However this may be, Pennsylvania soon felt the dire effects of savage feroc- ity. Cumberland county became a prey to the infuriated Lenape and Shawanees ; their barbarities were rapiiUy extended to the Susquehanna, and from thence to Berks and Northampton counties, and across the Delaware into New Jersey. Their scalping parties even visited the settlements east of the Shawan-
THE LENNI LENAPE — FRENCH WAE. 91
gunk mountains, and the stations of the peaceful Moravians, who had always treated them with the greatest kiudness, were not spared.
The condition of the border was indeed deplorable. A letter from the Union Iron Works, New Jersey, dated December 20, 1755, says; "The barbarous and bloody scene, which is now open in the uj^per part of Northampton county, is the most lamentable that has ever appeared. There may he seen horror and desolation ; populous settlements deserted — villages laid in ashes — men, women and cliildren cruelly mangled and massa- cred— some found in the woods, very nauseous, for want of interment — and some hacked, and covered aU over with wounds." In this letter was a Ust of seventy-eight persons killed ; and more than forty settlements burned.
A letter fi-om Easton, of the 25th of the same month, states that "the country, all above this town, for fifty miles, is mostly evacuated and iiiined. The people have, chiefly, fled into the Jerseys. Many of them have threshed out theu- corn, and carried it oft', with their cattle and best household goods, but a vast deal is left to the enemy. Many offered haU' their personal effects, to save the rest ; but could not obtain assistance enough in time to remove them. The enemy made but few prisoners ; murdering almost all that fell into their hands, of all ages, and both sexes. AU business is at an end ; and the few remaining, starv- ing inhabitants, in this town, are quite dejected and dispii'ited."*
The whites by a long period of peace with their savage neigh- bors, had become tmfitted for a war with them, and seemed at first stupefied by the horrors which surrounded them, and incapable of defense. Small parties of Indians lurked in the vicinity of undefended homesteads, and pounced fi-om the forest at favorable moments upon their victims, murdering them, and frequently consuming their bodies in their burning houses. After their fearful work was consummated, they would as suddenly disappear in the wilderness, carrying with them their booty and their prisoners, and leaving but few traces by which they could be tracked to their coverts, even when the whites were daring enough to pursue them.
At this time there were settlements on the Neversink river for ten miles from its mouth. These, in common with all others equally exposed, had their fuU share of peril and sorrow. Through wise forethought, the women and children were removed to Rochester, and other places which were deemed more secure than the region in the vicinity of the Neversink and the Delaware. Several block-houses were built for the protection of those inhab- itants who remained.
• Gordon's History of New Jersey.
92 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
On one occasion, three men, who were gathering grain, were sui-prised by the enemy and killed.
At another time, the savages attempted to take one of the block -houses, supposing it was occupied by women only; but several soldiers were unexpectedly m it. A desperate fight ensued. A number of the soldiers were killed; the survivors, however, compelled the Indians to retire.
A little son of Mr. WestfaU was taken prisoner by the Lenape, and remained with his captors imtil after the Revolutionary war, when, hearing that his father was dead, and that he was heir to part of the estate, he returned — disposed of his property, and returned to savage life, notwithstanding the efforts of his mother and others to induce him to remain with them.
The upper block-house on the Neversink was attacked — taken and burnt, with the neighboring buildings, and the occupants — principally soldiers — killed, mth a single exception.*
Among those slain by the Lenape at this time, was Thomas Quick, senior, of Upper Smithfield, or Milford, in the county of Northampton (now Pike). His demise was attended by circum- stances so aggi-avated, that his son Thomas Quick, junior, devoted his whole life to revenging his death. A detailed acount of the doings of this famous "Indian Slayer" will be given in other chapters.
One of the pioneers who settled west of the Delaware, was a man named Amos Carter, who, a short time before the war, removed from Cornwall, in Connecticut, and located with his family on a branch of the Lackawaxen, near the site of the well- known Carter House of the present time. Here he made a log- cabin, and tilled a few acres of land, which he had cleared. Carter's family consisted of himself, his wife and three children. Like a majority of the people of Connecticut, he was industrious and thrifty. As soon as his land woiJd warrant the purchase of cattle, and he had accumulated enough to pay for them, he resolved to keep a yoke of oxen and two or three cows, and went to Minisink to buy them. While he was absent fi-om home for this puqiose, Mrs. Carter had occasion to go to their garden, where she was suddenly confronted by a number of savages, painted according to their manner when engaged in war. She became pallid as they approached, and did not attempt to escape. She knew that escape was hoi^eless, and hoped that, if she sulv mitted quietly, they woitld spare her life. Vain hope ! She was immediately tomahawked, and laid lifeless at their feet. Her scalp was torn from her head, and her dead body left on the si^ot where she was miu'dered. They then plundered the house,
* Eager'B Histoty of Orange County.
THE LENNI LENAPE— FRENCH WAR. 93
and set fii-e to it ; after which they left the neighborhood, taking with them the chilchen.
When Carter returned, instead of the joj' of his family at the acquisition he had made, he witnessed a scene which caused hia heart to bleed, and filled his soul with htroic courage and an unconquerable desire for retribution. His wife, who had been an imcomplaining sharer of what he had endured in the wilder- ness, was a mutilated corpse before him ; his home, which had been made pl-easant by theii- joint labors, was in ashes ; and his children — the children of his murdered wife— were in the power of her merciless destroyers.
As soon as possible. Carter ralUed a few of his nearest neigh- bors, with whom he pursued the Indians. The latter, bemg encumbered with booty, traveled slowly ; while the whites, with nothing but their rifles, and a small supply of provisions, fol- lowed with rapidity. After a fatiguing march, during which Carter continually urged forward his fiiends, the savages were overtaken and attacked. In the fight which ensued, he exhibited the most obstinate and determined bravery.
The whites soon found that the enemy was too numerous for them, and were compelled to retreat. Carter, however. Defused to fall back, and when last seen by his fiiends, he was standing with his back agaiast a tree, defending himself against some half a dozen Indians, who seemed determined to take him ahve, and reserve him for torture ; but it is probable that they killed him there. He was never heard of afterwards.
The childi'en were subsequently recovered, and placed under the guardianship of their fiiends in Cornwall.*
Citizens of New Jersey were the first to arouse from the stupefaction of despaii-. Colonel John Anderson, of Sussex county, at the head of four hundred men, scoured the country, marched to tlie defense of Easton, and pui'sued the enemy, with- out, however, overtaking them. The New Jersey battaUion was recalled from the North by the Governor — troops were raised by him in aU parts of the proviuce, and ten thousand pounds were voted him for the pubUc defense.
During the ensuing winter, the enemy continued to hang on the frontiei-s. A chain of forts and block-houses was erected along the base of the Kittauniug mountains fi'om the east-branch of the Delaware (the Neversink) to the Maryland line, which were garrisoned by fifteen hundi-ed volunteers and drafted mihtia, imder Washington. During this period. Doctor Benjamin Franklin made his first and only mihtary campaign. He re- ceived the appointment of Colonel, and, after a short experience,
* Tom Quick and the Pioneers.
94 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
became satisfied that he was unfitted for military operations, and retired from the camp for ever.*
In the spring of 1756, the Sis Nations interposed, at the re- quest of Sir William Johnson, and for a time promised a cessation of hostilities on the part of those tribes which were subject to them. But a treaty of peace, or a promise to refrain from hos- tihties, seems to have been binding only on those Lenape and Shawanees who made it. The great bodies of those tribes re- mained dissatisfied or hostile, and sought every safe opportunity to continue to commit outrages.
This iutei-position of the Mengwe probably led Sfr WiUiam Johnson to abandon a project he had in contemplation of attack- ing the Lenape and their aUies at the Great Swamp, forty miles W. S. W. from Cochecton, with an overwhelming force," drawn from New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania, and of building a fort at Cochecton. Some four or five hundred Indians rendez- voused in this swamp, and it was believed that many scalping pai-ties had proceeded from it.
In Jidy, 1756, Sir WiUiam Johnson succeeded in having a conference with the chief of the Shawanees, and Teedyuscung, the king of the Lenape. Deputies from the Mengwe were present, and also a gi-eat number of Hudson River Indians, who were Lenape, and had remained attached to the Colonies during the war. The latter, by close association with the whites, had become worthless vagabonds — of no importance, except as nuisances, in peace or war.
At this conference the Shawanee chief boldly denied that his tribe, except those living on the Ohio, had engaged in hostihties against the Colonies, and promised that he would use his influ- ence to win the western Shawanees from the French.
Teedyuscung acknowledged that some of his people had joined the French and western Lenape in ther late hostihties ; but that the message sent by Sfr William to them by Mengwe messengere, and what had since occuiTed, had opened their eyes, and caused them to lay down the hatchet. He expressed sorrow for what had passed, and asked pardon with apparent sincerity. He de- clared that he would become an ally of the English ; that he would retiu-n all English prisoners held by his people ; and that his tribe woiild join the English and Meng^ve against the French at any time and anywhere. As an evidence of sincerity, he and the Shawanee chiel both accepted the war belt, and danced to" the war song with extraordinarv fervor.
Sir William Johnson concluded the conference by taking the petticoat or name of woman from the Lenape, and in the name of the British Icing and the Colonial authorities, promised to use
* Gordon's History of New .Terii-y.
THE LENNI LENAPE — FlIENCH WAE. 95
liis influence with the Mengwe to follow his example. The deputies of the latter pledged themselves to second him, and to press upon their constituents the necessity of making the Lenape freemen ; but nothing further was done in the matter.*
How much of deception was practiced on either side at this •conference, we wiU not pretend to say; but this we know; Notwithstanding Teedyuscung's promises and apparent humiUa- tion, the borders were not freed from the assaults of the Indians, and Teedyuscung's influence with the Lenape and other Algon- quin tribes continued to increase until he became the agent and advocate of a gi-eat number of them. It is probable that he wished to screen the Indians who Hved near the white settle- ments from punishment. If this was his object, he succeeded, for a time at least.
It was estimated that, by September of this year, one thousand men, women and children had been slain by the Indians, or canied into captivity. Property to an immense amount had been destroyed, and the peacefid pursuits of civihzed life were suspended in the frontier towns and settlements.
Notwithstanding the treaty with Teedyuscung, a terrible chastisement was in store for the Lenape who lived on the Al- leghany river. On the 8th of the following September, Colonel John Armstrong, of Pennsylvania, with a sufficient force, attacked the savages in their den, at Kittanning. Their principal chiefs -were killed, their families slaughtered, their town reduced to ashes, their crops destroyed, and their spirit humbled.
This was a species of warfare to which the Lenape had not been subjected since the attack of the Dutch in 1663. It was nearly as effectual at this time as it was then. Such of them as survived the carnage at Kittanning, and were of that vicinity, fled into the temtory occupied by the French, and thus had the French forts and garrisons between them and the EngHsh, while others began to see the beauties of peace. But the country was still exposed to the inroads of the French and western Indians, in which it is now known that some of the Lenape of Pennsyl- vania participated! Scalping parties penetrated to within thirty miles of Philadelphia, and continued to spread terror through the border settlements untU the French power in Ganada was destroyed. The pioneers west and east of the Shawangunk were not exempt from these visits.
Two brothers named Coleman occupied a log-house, a short distance south-east of the present village of Burlingham, with their wives and seven children. On a Sunday afternoon, one of the brothers went into the woods to search for a span of horses which had strayed there. While he was busy looking for the
• Documentary History of New York.
»0 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
lost animals, he was surprised by a party of six or eight In- dians, who lay in ambush, and who shot and scalped him. They then proceeded to the house, where the other brother was vmwell and in bed. They carefully surrounded it, and foimd that they could shoot the sick man through a crevice between the logs. The first intimation the family had of the presence- of the unseen foe, was the startling report of fire-arms in their midst, and the belching flame of gunpowder fi'om the walls of their humble dwelling. The sick man was instantly killed, and the next moment the painted demons burst into the house — dragged the quivering coi-pse fi-om the bed to the door, and tore away the scalp with savage exultation, while the ten-or- stricken women and children gazed on the scene, paralyzed with horror, and expecting instant death. They were spared, however, and made captives.
One of the women had recently been confined, and had a child about two weeks old. Being yet weak and unable to walk, she was placed astride of an old horse, and her feet were tied under his belly with a rope. They then gave her the child^ which she carried in her arms.
After setting fii-e to the buildings, the savages hunied away in a north-westerly direction over the Shawangunk mountain. The babe soon became restless and cried, when the Indians in- formed the poor mother that she must keep it quiet, or they would kill it. Of course, she exerted herself to the utmost, to soothe it ; but in the end it would not cease its plaintive wail- ings ; when one of the demons, no doubt fearing that the noise it made might reveal their whereabouts, tore it firom the arms of its mother, seized it by the heels, knocked its brains out against a tree, before her eyes, and threw its body as far from the path as his strength permitted. How Httle do the mothers of SuUivan at the present day know of the perils and suffering of the women who first came to this region with their loved ones ! Who can. estimate the grief of this woman, when she saw her little one thus murdered, and its body left to be torn to pieces and devoured by wild beasts?
The party reached Mamakating Valley a httle after dusk, where they waited a short time for the moon to appear. They then resumed their journey, and traveled during the remainder of the night, and the greater part of the next day.
The journey through the night was gloomy and feai'ful. The little childi'en, after the brutal murder of the babe, dared make no complaints. "With pallid and ghost-like features, and sore and weary feet, they pursued the uncertain path before them, sometimes falling over obstructions in the way, when an invol- untaiy and haK-suppressed cry would escape theii- Ups ; some- times stai-tled almost to fi'euzy by the howl of a wolf or the
THE LENNI LENAPE — FRENCH WAR. 97
shriek of a panther; and all the time fearful that their savage captors would fall upon them and kill them.
When morning at last came, they suffered less from terror; but being exhausted and foot-sore from their journey through the night, and being conipelled to go forward at an accelerated pace, their sufferings continued to increase through the day.
The report that the brothers Coleman had been killed by the savages, and their wives and children carried away, soon spread through the neighboring settlements, and before Monday morning a considerable number of brave and generous-hearted men were assembled at the scene of the tragedy. All were armed with rifles and hunting-knives, and all could use their weapons effect- ually when necessary ; for in those days, a man who was not a sure shot, and who could not engage in a rough-and-tumble fight with wild beasts, was not considered worthy of very much respect. As soon as day-light appeared, they commenced searching for the trail of the marauders, and soon struck it. No time was lost in making preparations for pursuit or in discussing the results which might foUow. It was enough for them to know that two of their friends had been miirdered by a savage foe, and that several helpless women and children were in the power of the savages. To rescue the captives and punish the Indians was a spontaneous impulse of their hearts, and they at once set off' in pursuit.
The pursuers had but little difficulty in tracking the retreat- ing foe, the impressions made by the feet of the horse being quite distinct in the pathway. Their horror and indignation may be imagined when they discovered the brutal manner in which the babe had been destroyed ; and they pressed forward with greater speed, and with vengeance written on every brow. It is probable that, if they could then have met the savages, their hearts would have been steeled against mercy.
So rapidly did they ti-avel that, towards night, they were close upon the Indians. Through means with which we are not ac- quainted, this fact became known to the latter, while the whites were ignorant of it. They were then probably on the ** Barrens" of one of the Delaware river towns. The Indians were not in good condition for a fight, and probably knew that the others outnumbered them. Finding that they were in a place where, for some distance, the horse's hoofs would make no impression on the soil, they turned suddenly from the path, and secreted themselves in a thicket, with their prisoners.
The half-dead captives suspected at once that succor was near. Their suspicions were confirmed when it was made known to them they would suffer instant death, if they made tlie least noise. Soon they heard the voices of their friends, as the latter hastened onward in the trail over which the captives and their
S8 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUKTY.
captors had just passed. Nearer and nearer came the would-be deliverers. The ver}' tones of this or that neighbor could be distinguished. But the poor children and their mothers did not dare look in the direction from which the friendly sounds came. Every savage held in his hand a weapon ^-ith which to dash out their brains if an alarm wa,s made, and every eye of the red men gleamed with deadly determination.
The pursuers were directly opposite the covert in which the prisoners were concealed. They passed on — on — on. Oh ! that they would discover that the path had been abandoned by the Indians ! Eager ears listened for a word that would indicate that the white men had discovered that those they were seeking had not gone that way. But no. The voices died away — away — until they were lost to the aching ears of the distressed moth- ers and their children. Hope died within them.
The whites followed the path until they discovered that the Indians had left it. They then searched for new traces of the fugitives ; but finding none, they returned home by another route.
After the whites had passed, Mrs. Coleman, for the first time, was taken fi-om the horse, on which she had been tied for twen- ty-four hours. The party remained in their place of concealment until the next morning, when they resumed their journey, after placing the bereaved mother once more in her former position.
From Sunday afternoon until Tuesday forenoon, they were withoiit a morsel of food. The Indians had brought nothing to «at with them, and were afraid to fire their guns ; fearing that, by doing so, they would lead the whites to discover them. 8ut on Tuesday forenoon, they shot a deer, and after that did not «uiFer from hunger. Duiiiig their journey, they came twice to large streams of water, (the Neversink and the Delaware.) In crossing these, the savages drove the horse, with Mrs. Coleman on his back, in advance of the others, to measure the depth. They then followed on foot The fear of being submerged in the water, by the falling of the horse, or by coming to some unexpected channel, would have been greater, if the be- reaved mother had not already witnessed so many shocking spectacles, that her senses had become in a measure deadened to what was passing. We«k from her recent iUness, having had "sorrows on sorrows multiplied," and being exhausted by the rough and toilsome journey, she submitted passively to what- ever was in store for her.
After Tuesday morning they traveled slowly, and continued to proceed leisurely towards their wigwams until Wednesday or Thursday evening, when their journey tenninated. The clan to which they belonged were located from forty to fifty miles be- yond the Delaware river. Mrs. Coleman was here taken from the horse for the last time.
THE LENNI LENATE — MIENCH WAR. 99
Their journeys over monntains, through valleys and across rapid rivers was at an end ; but not their sufferings. After the customary rejoicings at the safe return of the warriors and their success, a large fire was made, and the children were stripped naked, and then comiielled to run around the fire, the savages following them with whips, which they apphed to their naked bothes without mercy. When the children screamed with pain and aflright, then- tormentors would exliibit the greatest pleasure, and yell and laugh until the woods rang with hideous mirth. In this cruel amusement, the embryo braves of the clan partici- pated.
While this was going on, it seemed as if the sick woman's heart would break. Her cup of sorrow could contain no more. Powerless to do the screaming children any good, and unable longer to witness their sufferings, secretly she stole away into the woods to die. Half fi-enzied, she fled as fast as her feeble limbs would carry her, resolved to find some distant and quiet pkce where the cruel Indians would not find her, and where she could breathe away her life, and witness no more horrors.
As she tottered' away through the woods, she discovered a light in the distance, and by an impulse for which she could not account, she resolved to go to it, still not caring whether she 'Mved or died. Here she found an old squaw, who occupied a wigwam alone. This squaw had Uved amongst white people and could speak the English language. She was partially civ- ilized, and was known to the Indians as Peter Nell.* To her Mrs. Coleman related her pitiable story. Peter Nell's woman's heart was touched. She received her white sister kindly, and making a bed of leaves and bear skins, told her to rest in peace, and tljat the Indians should not harm her.
While Mrs. Coleman was reposing on this primitive but com- fortable couch, the squaw made her some venison-soup after the manner of the white people. This proved to be very refresbing to the sick and exhausted captive. The latter remained with the good Indian woman for a considerable time, and until her health was completely restored, when the squaw assisted her in returning to her friends in Orange county.
^Vhat became of the other captives is not known. It was reported many years afterwards that two or three of them escaped ; but of this there is no certainty.
The greater part of the foregoing naiTative was derived from Mrs. Coleman, who related the particulars to an uncle of our informant.t This uncle was one of the party who went in pur- isuit of the savages.
* Petronella — a name probably given her in baptism by the Moiaviana. t The venorable Rev. Samuel Pelton, of Thompson, His son, Luther Pelton, com- Jnitted the facts to paper at ouf request.
100 BISTORT OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
After the aiFair at Kittanning, Teedytiscung was present and was the chosen and loved advocate of his own, and many other Algonquin tribes, at several conferences with the whites. The Lenape regarded him as their champion in all cases where sagacity and abihty were necessary.
He seems to have been successful with the people of New Jersey. He laid his grievances before commissioners of that colony in 1756. The Assembly of New Jereey, in consequence, passed stringent laws to guard the Indians against abuses, and appropriated sixteen hundred pounds to the purchase of Indian claims; "one-half to be expended for a settlement, for such Indians as resided south of the Earitan, where they might dwell, and the remainder to be apphed to the purchase of any latent claims of non-residents." In Febmary, 1758, the Indians exe- cuted a formal release of their claims in New Jersey, except those of the Miuisinks and Pomptons, in the northern parts of the province, which included some part of the territory of Sulli- van county covered by the "Jersey claim."
During this year some famihes Hving on the Walpack were massacred by the savages.
After these inroads, and towards the close of the summer. Governor Bernard, through Teedyuscung, summoned the Minsi and Pompton clans, who had joined the enemy, to meet him at Burlington. The leading men of these tribes attended the council. An Ii-oquois chief was also present.* This chief as- sumed a very aiTogant bearing toward the Lenape. Benjamin, who was the spokesman of the Minsi, held a belt in his hand, but dehvered what he had to say whilst sitting, not being per- mitted to stand untU the Mengwe had been heard. The latter denied that the Lenape had the right to make a treaty, as they were subjects of the Six Nations, and at his request, the confer- ence was adjourned to a gi-eat council of Indian tribes which subsequently took place at Easton.t The Minsi, Wappings, etc., however, held a special conference with Governor Bernard soon after, at which, for one thousand doUars, they sold all their title to lands in New Jersey. After this, New Jersey had no more trouble with these tribes.
TeedjTiscung's efforts to obtain redress for the alleged wrongs inflicted on his people in regard to the forks of the Delaware, and other lauds on both sides of that river, were renewed in 1757. In July of that year, he attended a conference at Easton, where he labored to have all ilifferences referred to the King of Great Britain; with copies of aU the deeds and wi-itings by which the whites held those lands. This conference was held
• Gordons History of New Jersey. t Smith's New Jersey.
THE LENNI LENAPE— FEENCH WAR. 101
on the part of the whites, by Mr. George Croghan, who was deputed by Sir William Johnson for that purpose, and by Deputy Governor Denny, of Pennsylvania, and several commissioners appointed by the Assembly of that province.
At the opening of the conference, Teedyuscung understood that Mr. Croghan had full power to act, and declared himself well pleased with his appointment, and willing to submit his complaints to the arbitrament of Mr. C. ; but when he requested that the deeds of the Proprietors should be produced, read and examined, that it might be seen what Indians had sold the lands, and the extent of the purchases, he was told that Sir "William Johnson was the person before whom such matters should be laid. Teedyuscung indignantly refused to go before Johnson, and a stormy scene ensued.
Sir William Johnson resided with the haughty Mengwe, who had so grievously insulted his people in 1742, and compelled them to abandon a region to wliich the Lenape were attached by all the ties which can bind the savage heart. Sir William was the friend and ally of the proud and treacherous confederacy wliich had done such fatal injury to his people, and he had labored many years to enrich and strengthen the Mengwe. In the eyes of the Lenape king, he would not be an impartial um- pire. At the seat of the baronet, too, Teedviiscung would be surrounded by enemies who would not hesitate to assassinate him, if he succeeded in securing the right of his tribe to the land in dispute. His refusal, under such circumstances, was alike creditable to his sagacity and patriotism.
The deeds, however, were produced, when Teedyuscung alleged that, in some cases, they were given by persons who had no right to sell ; in others, that greater quantities of land had been taken possession of than were granted ; and in another, that the Pro- prietors had forged a deed, and made an alteration of the courses agreed on. His allegations were of a very grave character, and, if true, the Proprietors were vile criminals. He was sincere in making them, no doubt ; and they were giiiltless of any moral offense greater than that of makiiig bargains with the Indians, by which the latter parted with more property than they intended to sell. The white man's parchment covered what the Lenape supposed they had never alienated. Hence the bold and indig- nant charge of the dusky monarch.
Notwithstanding Teedyuscung refused to go before Sir Wil- liam Johnson, he proposed that copies of the deeds should be send to him for transmission to the Enghsh monarch ; but caused his own clerk to forward copies to the Speaker of the Pennsyl- vania Assembly, with a request to forward them to His Britannic Majesty. Teedyuscung no doubt hoped to checkmate Sir William in this manner, if he proved unfaithful. Johnson
1021 HISTORY OF SULLIVAS COUNTY.
professed to be indignant at the conduct of the red diplomatist, and the Quakers who had won his confidence, and thought it advisable to "press his mediation" no fuither. However, he transmitted copies of the conference, which the smooth and sleek Quakers neglected to do.
After the surrender of Fort William Henry to the French, ia August, 1757, the frontier inhabitants of Orange and Ulster became much alarmed. The enemy had a large army and a formidable ti-ain of artillery. Encouraged by their recent suc- cess, it was supposed that the French would peneti'ate farther into the country, and thus cause the Indians to be more active and bold ia theii- attacks on the pioneers. These feais were not groimdless. The savages penetrated these counties, and killed some of the people who hved there. On appUcation fi-om the inhabitants, a ]me of block-houses was built along the fi-ontier of Orange and Ulster, and troops were posted there by order of the Earl of Loudon.
In October of this year, a few Lenape who lived on the Del- aware river were engaged in an affair in which several wliites lost their lives. About thirty hostile Cayugas and Seuecas set out on an expedition against the people of Ulster, and were met by the Oquaga Indians, who held a council with them on the- 5th of the month, and persuaded all except nine Cayugas to turn, back. These latter proceeded to the Delaware river, where- they induced aU the braves whom they could influence to join^ them. On the l'2th they made their appearance at the house of Peter Jan, who Uved in the south-western part of the settled portion of Rochester, a town which at that time included con- siderable of the territory of Sullivan. Two privates of Colonel A. Hasbrouck's regiment, who were posted in the neighborhood as scouts, were killed, as well as one of Jan's daughters. Jan and his two sons, who were at work iu a field, escaped. Another private soldier was in the house, where there happened to be several loaded guns. With these he determined to defend himself to the last, as well as Jan's wife and two remaining daughters. The brave feUow fought so well that the savages retired fi-om the immediate vicinity, when he escorted the mother and children to the house of Captain Brodhead, who lived a mile distant. The enemy then returned and burned Jan's house.
The next night, Colonel Hasbrouck's forces marched in pm-suit of the marauders ; but failed to discover them.
There is not on record an account of a successful search for hostile Indians in the wilds of Sullivan, except when they desired to be found. The labyrinthine chanacter of our rhododendron' thickets was so very favorable to concealment, that the enemy could not be tracked, and tie whites could not pursue them, except when they traveled in well-defined paths..
THE LENNI LENAPE— FRENCH WAR. 103^
In the fall of 1758, a conference was held with the Mengwe and Lenape tribes, at which Teedvnscung again repeated the complaints of the Algonquin Indians for whom he was the agent. But little was done, however, except to restore to the Meugwe a large tract of land which they sold to Pennsylvania in 1754,, at Albany, and for which they had been paid. This jDurchase had caused much discontent among the Six Nations, who were propitiated by the EngUsh on all occasions. Equal liberality was never displayed toward the Lenape.
In tlie summer of 1759, the case of the Lenape was laid before the Kmg's Privy Council for Plantation Affairs, when the whole matter was referred back to Sir WiUiam Johnson, who was directed to summon all the parties, and, after a hearing, ta transmit his proceedings, with his opinion of what should be done, to the Commissioners for Trade and Plantations, to be laid before the King. But Teedyuscung could not be induced to go before that gentleman, as he believed that Sir WUliam would decide against him. He continued to confide in the Governor and people of Pennsylvania, and they could not or would not afford him relief.
We have not noticed all the treaties of peace made between the English and the Lenape and other Indians, during the French war, for obvious reasons.
The conquest of Canada by the English, and its cession to the British crown by France, did not give our frontier settle- ments entire immunity fi-om savage outrage, as will appear from the death of Teedyuscung, and the events which foKowed on the Delaware river, and in other localities.
In the spriug of 1763, Pontiac, an eloquent and sagacious Ottawa sachem and chief, drew several of the Algonquin tribes and some of the Mengwe, into a conspiracy to turn back the tide of emigration. A portion of the western Lenape became his allies ; but it does not appear that Teedyuscung was involved in the outbreak, although it is more than probable that his sympathies were strongly enlisted on the side of Pontiac. His influence, too, and his dissatisfaction in regard to the sale of the lands of his tribe, made him a dangerous neighbor to the colonists. His death was a desirable event, and it soon took place under very singular circumstances ; but in a manner which shows that it was either accidental, or that it was procured by the Mengwe, the old enemies and oppressors of his people.
Tradition says that the Mengwe had become jealous of his power and popularity, afnd resolved to destroy him. In the fall of 1763, a party of warriors of that confederacy came to his
104 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
dwelling on a pretended visit of friendship.* During their visit his caliin was burned, at night, and his dead body was found in the ashes. The news of the tragedy brought large numbers of his subjects to the scene of disaster, when the Mengwe artfully led them to believe that the whites of the vicinity were the au- thors of the disaster. They were in a mood to give credit to the words of their visitors, and at once flew to arms to avenge the death of their beloved sachem. Before another sunset thirty whites were slain by the infuriated Lenape, and about two hun- dred and fifty others were fugitives in the wilderness, most of whom returned to their former homes in Connecticut. During the evening after the massacre, their houses were burned.
Here we should pause to do honor to Teed}iiscung, the greatest niler of the native Indians of Sulhvan. Before he was chosen king, he had resided within the territory of the Minsi tiibe — was an Indian of the Delaware, and acknowledged as his sachem Ta-de-me, of whom so Uttle is known; but whom the author believes to be identical with Tamanend or Tammany.t
Ta-de-me was treacherously murdered by hostile Indians from the North-west. A general council of the Delaware clans was then held, which chose Teedjniscrmg chief sachem, and he was inducted into office according to the ancient ceremonies of the Lenajje.J He was then residing at Gnadenhutten, where the Moravians had estabhshed a settlement of Christian natives; but immediately removed to Wyoming, which had become the principal seat of his people. He was nominally a Christian ; his squaw was a devout and pious disciple of Zinzendorf. According to Laskiel, he was baptized in 1750, when he received the name of Gideon. He had previoiisly been known to the Enghsh as Honest John. The same writer says his baptism was delayed some time, because of his wavering disposition. But ha^•ing been once present when the sacrament was administered, he said to one of the brethren: "I am distressed that the time is not yet come that I shall be baptized and cleansed in the blood of Christ." Being asked how he felt during the baptism, he answered: "I cannot describe it; but I wept and trembled."
* LoBsing's Field Book of the Revolution.
t There is much confusion in the orthography of Indian names of the last century, Dutcli, English, Swedish and other writers spell Lenape words in so many ways that soiiit tmu-s it is almost mipossible to decide which is right, and eveu to recognize the Batne word as given to us by each of them. Tammany ruled between 1720 and 1750, and was a devoted friend ot' the Enghsh colonists. After the election of Teedyuscung, the Indians who had been ruled by Tammany loved their white neighbors, and manv of them had embraced the Chiistian religion. The period in which Ta-dc-me and Tammany reigned is the same ; their characters are not dissimilar, so far as we know anythiug'of them, and there ia no greater difference between the names Tammany and Ta-de-me than there is between many other Indian names handed down to us by igno- rant clerks and careless authors.
We give this note more to incite inquiry than for any other purpose.
J Stone's History of Wyoming.
THE LENNI LENAPE — FRENCH WAR. 105
He then spoke to the missionaries in a very iinreserved manner, saying tliat he had been a very bad man all his hfe ; that he had no power to resist evil ; and that he had never before been so desiroiis to be delivered from sin, and to be made a partaker of our Lord's grace, and added: "O that I were baptized, and cleansed ia his blood!" He evinced this fervor ever afterward; but caused his pious teachers much anxiety because he never could feel assured that he was an accepted follower of Clirist. His lack of hope was always manifest. He had a higher con- ception of Christianity than white rulers. He beheved that it was the gospel of simplicity, mercy, purity and peace. As a statesman he was compelled to resort to craft, barbarity, subtlety and bloodshed. After his career as a diplomatist and wan-ior, he was heard to say: "As to externals, I possess every thing m plenty ; but riches are of no use to me, for I have a troubled conscience. I stiU remember weU what it is to feel peace in the heart; but I have now lost aU." In this despondent state of mind he died. It is said that to his other moral delinquencies he added an occasional intemperate indulgence in fire-water.
He has been described as a " lusty, raw-boned man, haughty, and very desirous of respect and command."* He could be as witty as he was proud. A low feUow named McNabb met him at Stroudsburg, and accosted him with, "Well, cousin, how do you do?" " Cousin, covisin !" repeated the haughty chief, "how do you make that out?" "Oh! we are all cousins fi'om Adam." " Ah ! then, I am glad it is no nearer !" was the cutting reply.f
As an orator, he was bold, strong, wonderfully exphcit, and always chaste. He shot directly at his mark, and always hit it. He uttered no nonsense about chains and belts. There was no circumlocution in his utterances ; biTt there was plenty of Machi- aveHsm when the safety and welfare of his people needed it. He could form treaties of peace, and " dance with extraordinai-y fervor"! to render them binding, when he foimd it necessaiy to save his fiontier subjects fi'om chastisement. At the same time he would permit the Delawares of the Ohio to pass through his towns to destroy the pale faces ; but claimed that he and the exposed clans were not responsible for the outrages of the marauders.
Wliat we know of him comes principally fi-om his enemies. We must judge him by what he accomphshed rather than by the representations of those who suifered thi-ough his acts, or were jealous of his power and fame. He found his people di- vided, impotent and enslaved — derided and despised by their
• Major Parsons, seoretarj' of the conference of 1756. t Stone's Wyoming. t Sir William Johnson.
106 HISTORY OF SULLIV.\N COUNTY.
masters, the pampered Mengwe, and debauched and robbed by the colonists. From lack of unity, the}- enjoyed no more con- sideration than a thousand Uttle rivulets meanderiug through as many channels. A deer could diink from one of them, and consume it. He made them all run in one channel, and thus gave them force and volume. Thenceforth they were bee and formidable, and an outrage on one of his people was felt and resented by the entire nation. He infused into them patriotism ; inspired them with a common purpose ; compressed the yielding sand into the adamantine rock.
At the time of his death, he was the acknowledged ruler of no less than ten considerable Lenape tribes, and had forced the arrogant Iroquois to acknowledge them through him as their peers.* In time, had he not been assassinated by his enemies, he would have been acknowledged the gi-eatest aboriginal states- man of the continent.
After his death, and the scenes which followed in his own neighborhood, his fi-iends resolved to attack Cochecton, and without delay proceeded to the Delaware river by the way of the Lackawaxen, hoping, no doubt, to hem in the inhabitants of that settlement. The savages, however, forgot one avenue of escape.
Cochecton was then reached by two routes. One of these was through the valley of the Delaware from Minisink — the other was an Indian path through Neversink, Eocklaud, etc., to the mouth of the CaUicoon. The latter was not often followed by the whites, who found the way by Minisink the most convenient. If the savages had sent a party across the county from the mouth of the Lackawaxen, to intercept those who attempted to escape by the northern route, the settlers of Cochecton would have been exterminated. But they chd not.
Cochecton at that time contained about thirty log-houses and a block-house. A wi-iter named Chapman says it also contained a gi'ist-miU and a saw-mill.
Several families had settled at the mouth of the Ten Mile river. These the Indians sui-prised and slaughtered. Not a person escaped. The houses, bams, etc., were burned, and everything valuable destroyed, except the bare fields. All the whites who Hved between the Lackawaxen and Cushetunk or Calkins' creek shared the same fate.
Besides women and children, there were but three men in the vicinity of the block-house — Moses Thomas Ist, a Mr. Witters
• A council was held at Eaeton in 1758, with the Six Nations, Delaware's and other Indians, at which Teedjuscung assumed a conspicuous position as a condnctor of the diecnssions. The Iroquois were disposed for & time to be oifeuded — reviving a^aiu their old claims of superiority. But the Delaware chit- f was not in a humor to Yield the distinction he had already acquired, and sustained himself throughout "with cloqence and dignity. fW- L- Stone,
THE LENNI LENAPE — FRENCH WAR 107
and a Mi-. Willis. The block-house was ou the Peuu.sylvania shore, on the lands of Thomas, and was well supphed ^-itli guns and ammunition.
Willis had a log-house and clearing at Narrowsburgh, and had removed his family to the block-house for safety. Ou the morning of the attack, he sent his two sons to winnow some buckwheat at his clearing. They soon returned, and reported that a large party of Indians were coming up the river. The boys were not always truthful, and were somewhat lazy. Con- sequently their report was doubted, and the three men stax-ted down the river to reconnoiter, the father of the lads lirst telling them that tliej^ wovdd be punished if they had concocted tlie story to get rid of work. In the meantime, the women and childi'en took refuge in the block-house, or got ready- to flee there at a moment's warning.
The three men had proceeded about half a mile, when they discovered the savages in a turnip-field, on a knoll, where they were eating turnips. When the Indians were first seen by Thomas and his fi-iends, the pajties were within gunshot of each other. The Lenape fii-ed instantly. Thomas fell Ufeless, and Willis was so badly wounded that he was soon overtaken by the yeUing fiends, and slain. Witters escaped, and with the women and children was soon in the block-house. . - Witters was faithful, brave and versatile. He could have fled to the mountains and escaped with but little fui-ther risk to himself ; but he chose to remain with the widows and children of his murdered neighbors, and defend them, and, if necessary, die with them. He at once sent a lad to the neighborhood north of him, to advise the iahabitants of approaching danger, and procure assistance. Th« name of this lad was Moses Thomas 2d. Subsequently he was killed by a tory at the battle in High- land. Those to whom he was sent at once fled to the woods, and proceeded by the noi-them route to Esopus.
Witters also sent two boys — EUas Thomas and Jacob Denny — ^to Minisink, for aid. Neither of these lads was 11 years old.
The Indians approached the block-house cautiously. They evidently feared that it contained a considerable force. Before they came near it. Witters had succeeded in inspiiing the women with courage to such a degree, that each one was watching for an opportunity to shoot the savages. No time was lost iu uea- less lamentation for the dead, who lay mutilated, mangled and bleeding, almost within sight of the wooden fortification. The hvea of their helpless little ones, under God, depended upon them, and, women as they were, they were equal to the emergency.
As the savages approached under cover of the river hank, Witters, by changing the sound of his voice, made them believe
108 HISTOEY OF SXJLLIYAN COUNTY.
there were several officers in the block-house, engaged in ar- ranging the defense, giving orders to their men, etc., and he was such a capital mimic that, with aU their acuteness of ear, they did not discover the truth.
The Indians were completely deceived by him, and remained behind their natural breastwork, the river bank, during the day, where they kept iip a war of words with the besieged.
As night approached, "Witters began to fear that the assailants would set file to some hay which was stacked beside the block- house, and thus bum his stronghold. His fear was not baseless. The savages were waiting for that purpose, and made the attempt as soon as they supposed it was dark enough. Witters saw the Indian who was detailed for that purjiose, as the latter cautiously crawled toward the hay, when the savage was shot and killed. This intimidated the others to such a degi-ee, that, as soon as they could recover the dead body, and bury it, they hastUy set fire to the undefended buildings of the neighborhood, and then retreated toward the Susquehanna by the way of the Cushetunk.
Those whites who fled by the northern route toward Esopus had a "sorry time." They became bewildered in the forest, and wandered they knew not whither. Soon hunger was added to their sufferings. Though well supphod vnth guns, they did not shoot any animal or bird for food, as the report might lead to their discovery and massacre by the Indians. Silently and stealthily they wandered throiigh the woods, feeding ujion their dogs, reptiles, etc., and sleeping upon the cold ground without covering. Finally they found a ti'ail which led to a settlement, where they were kindly received.
EUas Thomas and Jacob Denny reached Minisink in safety, and a sufficient number of men at once went to Cochecton ui canoes, where they were joyfully received. The dead bodies of Thomas and Willis were bm-ied, and preparations made to re- move the hving to Minisink. Soon all was ready for departure, when an unexpected difficulty arose. It was found that there was room ia the canoes for all the party except ©ne, and that one must be left behiad ! Amongst those rescued was an idiot girl and her mother, and it was soon decided that the gii'l should be abandoned. A heart-rending scene ensued. The poor mother wished to remain with her unfortunate child, but was compelled to get into a canoe by force, where she covered her head with her apron, and moaned bitterly as she was borne away, whUo her icliot child uttered inarticulate cries on the shore. The girl's bones were subsequently found near the block-house and buried.
THE LENNT LENAPE — FIIENCH WAR. 109
A few years since, her remains, and those of Moses Thomas 1st, were uncovered by the action of the river. They were gathered by Moses Thomas 3d, and once more committed to the earth.*
These and other outrages of the Indians were followed by acts of equal, if not greater atrocity on the part of the whites, some of wlaich shoiild damn their perpetrators with everlasting infamy. We will give the particulars of but one of these dis- graceful tragedies.
A few quiet, inofiensive Indians lived at Canestoga, in Penn- sylvania, where they and their ancestors had dwelt for more than a century. Their forefathers were among those who had welcomed William Penn, and they had never made war on the whites. Biit some white miscreants, who were known as "Pax- ton boys," held them responsible for the bad deeds of other red men, and resolved to destroy them.
In the month of November following the attack on Cochecton, the white savages of Paxton fell upon the Indians of Canestoga, and murdered fourteen men, women and childi-en. The others (fifteen or twenty in number) lied to Lancaster, where they were locked up, for safety, in the jail. Hither the "boys" pm-sued them, took possession of the prison, and butchered every soul of themit The following is taken from a letter of a person who visited the jail after the massacre :
« * * * J j-j^jj ijj^Q ^jjg prison-yard, and there, O what a horrid sight presented itself to my view ! Near the back-door of the prison lay an old Indian and his squaw, particularly well known and esteemed by the people of the town, on account of his placid and friendly conduct. His name was Will Sock. Across him and his squaw lay two children of about the age of three years, whose heads were spUt with the tomahawk, and their scalps all taken off. Towards the middle of the jail-yard, along the west side of the wall, lay an Indian, whom I particu- larly noticed to have been shot in the breast; his legs were chopped with the tomahawk, his hands cut off, and finally a rifle-ball discharged ia his mouth : so that his head was blown to atoms, and the brauis were splashed against, and yet hanging to the wall, for three or four feet around. * * * * In this manner lay the whole of them, men, women and children, spread about the prison-yard: shot — scalped — hacked — and cut to pieces."
We might devote many more paragraphs to the ancient race that once owned our hills and valleys. We cordd give a detailed account of the employment of a Mengwe army, in 17G4, by Sir William Johnson, to crush the Lenape and the Shawanees — of
• Tom Qnick and the Pioneers, t Brownell'fl Indian Races.
110 , HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
the efforts of that gentleman to make peace with them in 1765 — but our chapter on the Indians of Sulhvan akeady exceeds its proper proportions, and we must hasten to a conclusion of the subject.
In 1768, the Mengwe confederacy conveyed to the whites all of the ancient territory of the Lenape, and some that belonged to themselves, receiving for it ten thousand four hiiudred and sixty pounds, seven shillings and three jjence, and a "valuable present of the several articles in use amo^g Indians."
In 1774, but about 300 fighting men of the Lenape family were in the pro\'ince of New York below Albany. They were remnants of the Long Island ti-ibes, the Wappings of Dutchess, the Esopus, Papagonks, etc., of Ulster, and a few others. Most of them professed Clmstianity, and conformed to the customs of the whites. The gi-eat body of the Lenape had removed toward the setthig sun.*
In this year an old Lenape chief named Bald Eagle was causelessly murdered, scalped and set adiift in his canoe — a fair specimen of deeds which had occurred between the whites and the Delawares from the outbreak in 1755, notwithstanding a great number of treaties of peace. In October, 1774, the battle at Point Pleasant took place, in which one thousand Al- gonqiiins and western Mengwe, under Logan and Cornstalk, fought with desperate bravery, but were defeated. A peace soon followed, which was regarded as binding by both races for a short time.
At the breaking-out of the Revolutionary war, the Minsi tribe of the Lenape nation, under the celebrated chief, Captain Pipe, enlisted on the side of the British king, while the Unamis and the Unalachtgoes, led by Koguethagechton, or Captain ~\Miite Eyes, were inchned to peace and neutrahty. The sympathies of some of the latter were in favor of the Colonies. This led to a di'\'ision of the Lenape, which, to a certain extent, remains to the present day. Two hundred of the Minsi ai'e now separated from the Delawares, and are known as Mimsees. White Eyes died in the -ninter of 1779-80, of small-pox — an unfortunate event for the revolutionists, as it enabled Captain Pipe to influence a great number of Lenape, who then joined his standard.
The hostile Lenape took a prominent part in all the gi'eat battles of the Revolution in which the Algonquin tribes were engaged, and were second to none in those traits which the red men regard as heroic.
The Algonquin tribes at this period became more closely allied, generally, than at any time since the country hud been visited by Europeans. They made war — not by sending out
• Documentaiy Historj' of New York.
THE LENNI LENAPK — EEVOLUTIONAKY WAR. Ill
more scalping parties — but by combiniag a thousand or more warriors in a body — and, in this manner performed deeds which showed that they were equal to the Mengwe, and proved that their former weakness was caused by a lack of unity and concert among their clans, tribes and nations.
As the war of the Revolution progi-essed the animosity of the revolted colonists and those ti-ibes which were hostile to the patriots, increased in intensity. Barbarous cruelty and inhu- manity were not confined to either side. The white historian can relate with thriUing pathos the sufferings of his race at "Wyoming ; but what can exceed the horrors of the massacre of the peaceful, God-fearing Moravian Lenape of the Tuscarawas? These poor j^eople, under the preaching of Post, Heckewelder, Zeisberger and other pious missionaries, had abandoned hea- thenism, and embraced the faith that "the Great Being did not make men to destroy men, but to love and assist each other." They no longer gloried in those violent achievements which had been the highest ambition of their ancestors. As disciples of Jesus, they had become harmless as doves. They advised their red heathen neighbors not to engage in war, and when the white .settlements were in danger, gave timely warning. Provoked at their conduct, three hundred hostile savages, under Captain Pipe, and others, compelled them, by menaces and violence, to remove to the banks of the Sandusky, in the fall of 1781. During "the next February, wliUe suffering much from hunger, a portion of them received permission to return to the Tuscarawas, for the pui-pose of gathering the corn left on the stalk the preced- ing fall.
Several outrages about this time were perpetrated by hostile In- dians. This led one hundred white savages of the Monongahela, under Colonel Williamson, to commit a deed which blackens a page of American liistory. By the molest deception, they in- duced the peaceful Moravian Lenape of Tuscarawas, to the number of ninety, to accept their protection, and proceed -with them to Gnadenliutten, where they were treacherously fettered and thrown into prison. Then, by a vote, their captors resolved "to put them to death, and they were ordered to prepare to die! And nol:)ly did they meet their fate. They did not chant the ;savage de"ath-song which their ancestors had used at their last moments for a thousand years; they did not boast of bloody deeds on the war-path ; but they sang the beautiful hymns of the Christian, and said the prayers which had been taught them by devout Christian preachere. Their orisons awoke no sentiment of mercy in the hearts of their captors. "With gun, and spear, and tomahawk, and scalping-knife, the work of death progressed, till every man, woman and child was murdered,
112 HISTORY OF SXTLLIVAN OOUKTY.
except two boys, who escaped, as if by a miracle!"* Thesff* poor people — savages and children of blood at their bii'th, had embraced a rehgion of love and mercy, and died in accordance •with, the example and precepts of the Piiuce of Peace.
The pagan Lenape were never knoTvn to spare a captive who had been concerned in this inhuman massacre, or who was known by them as having been associated with Colonel Wil-
About three months after the massacre of the Moravian In- cbaus, an army under Colonel William Crawford marched against the Lenape and other Indians whose towns were on the San- dusky. Crawford was a man of good repute — the companion and fiiend of Washington, who had often visited him at his dwelling. Under Crawford, in this campaign, Colonel Williamson was subordinate. The expedition was a disastrous one. The savages, commanded by Pipe, Wingcnuug, and the infamous Simon Girty, defeated them with gi'^at slaugliter. Williamson escaped ; but Crawford was taken prisoner, and put to death. All the cruelties which savage ingenuity could invent were in- flicted on him. The following account of his death is related by Dr. Knight, a fellow prisoner who was sentenced to suffer a simihir fate, but escaped :
" When we went to the fire, the Colonel was sti-ipped naked, ordered to sit down by the fire, and then they beat him with sticks and their fists. Presently after I was treated in tlie same manner. Then they tied a rope to the foot of a post about fifteen feet high, bound the Colonel's hands behind his back, and fastened the rope to the hgature between his ^Tists. The rope was long enough for him to sit do^-n, or walk roimd the post once or twice, and return the same way. The Colonel then called to Girty, and asked if they intended to biu-n him ? Girty answered, yes. The Colonel said he would take it all patiently. Upon this, Captain Pipe made a speech to the Incbans, viz: about tliiity or forty men, and sixty or seventy squaws and boys.
" ^Vheu the speech was finished, they all yelled a hideous and hearty assent to what had been said. The Indian men then took up tlieii- guns and shot powdo- into the Colonel's body, from his feet as far up as his neck. I think that not less than thirty loads were iliacharged upon his naked body. They then crowded about him, and to the best of my observation, cut off^ his ears. Wlien the throng had dispersed a Httle, I saw the blood running from both sides of his head in consequence thereof.
"The fire was alx)ut six or seven yards from the post to which the Colonel was tied ; it was made of small liickory poles, burnt quite tlirough the middle, each end of the poles remaining about
THE LHNNI LENAPE — REVOLUTIONARY WAR. 113
six feet long. Three or four Indians by turns would take up, individually, one of these burning pieces of wood, and apply it to his naked body, akeady burnt black with the powder. These tormentors presented themselves on every side of him with the burning fagots and poles. Some of the squaws took broad boards, upon which they would carry a quantity of buruing coals and hot embers, and throw them on him, so that ui a short time he had nothing but coals of fire and hot ashes to walk upon.
"In the midst of these extreme tortures he called to Simon Girty, and begged of him to shoot him ; but Girty making no answer, he called to him again. Girty then, by way of derision, told the Colonel he had no gun, at the same tune turning about to an Indian who was behind him, laughed heartily, and by all his gestures seemed delighted at the horrid scene.
" Girty then came up to me and bade me prepare for death. He said, however, I was not to die at that place, but to be burnt at the Shawanee towns. He swore I need not expect to escape death, but should suffer it ia aU its extremities.
"Colonel Crawford, at this period of his sufferings, besought the Almighty to have mercy on his soul, spoke very low, and bore his torments with the most manly fortitude. He continued in all the extremities of pain for an hour and three-quarters or two houi"s longer, as near as I can judge, when at last, being almost exhausted, he lay down on his beUy ; they then scalped him, and repeatedly threw the scalp in my face, telling me, "that was my gi-eat captain." An old squaw (whose appearance- every way answered the ideas people entertain of the devil) got a board, took a parcel of coals and ashes, and laid them at his back and head, after he had been scalped ; he then raised him- seK ujDon his feet and began to walk round the post ; they next put a burning stick to him, as usual, but he seemed more insen- sible of pam than before.
" The Indian fellow who had me in charge, now took me away to Captain Pipe's house, about three-quartei's of a mile fi-om the place of the Colonel's execution. I was bound aU night, and thus prevented fi-om seeing the last of the horrid spectacle. Next morning the Indian untied me, painted me black, and we set off for the Shawanee town, which he told me was something less than forty miles distant fiom that place. We soon came to the spot where the Colonel had been burnt, as it was partly in our way. I saw his bones lying among the remains of the fire, almost burnt to ashes. I suppose, after he was dead, they laid his body on the fire. The Indian told me that was my big captain, and gave the scalp-halloo."
The close of the Eevolutionary war did not bring peace be- tween the citizens of the United States and the Indians who had fought for the British king. The Lenape and the tribes with
114 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
whom tliey were in alliance continued hostilities until the tei-rible chastisement inflicted on them by "Mad Anthony Wayne;" when, through the influence of Little Turtle, the celebrated chief of the Miamies, and Buckongahelas, the gi-eat war chief of the Lenape, a treaty of peace was effected, which was observed as binding for several years.
The Delawares, or Lenape, have since borne a conspicuous part in the wars bet«'een the whites and the red men. As they have not had a foothold on the territory of Sullivan since the war of the Revolution, it is not proper to pursue theu- historj- further.
■" Dark as the frost-nipped leaves that strew the ground, The Indian hunter here his shelter foimd ; Here cut his bow, and shaped his arrows true, Here built his wigwam and his bark canoe, Speared the quick salmon leaping up the fall. And slew the deer without the rifle-ball ; Here his young squaw her cradling tree would choose. Singing her chant to hush her swart pappoose ; Here stain her quiLLs, and string her trinkets rude. And weave her warrior's wampum in the wood."*
But they are no more seen on our hills or in our valleys. They have found a home ia the wilds of the far West, and for many years, not one of the "original people" has visited us.
The last Lenape who came within our borders was a poor, penniless wanderer, without a hat and in rags. He was last seen at BridgeviUe, where he was the sport of itUe and mischievou.s boys. WiUiam A. Eice, who was then an invaUd, with symptoms of pulmonary consumption, rescued him fi-om his tormentors, and gave him money, a hat, etc. The Indian received them thankfully, and, after gazing on his benefactor attentively for some time, left, never more to return.
This cu-ciimstance was nearly forgotten by Mr. Eice, when, several months aftei"wards, he received a letter from the Indian, in which he gave a minute description of Mr. Eice's complaint, with directions for its cui-e. The remedy proved a good one, and, by its use, Mr. Eice's health was restored.
The gi-ateful savage traveled fortj- miles from his home in the wilderness, to deposit his letter in a post-office.
Note. — The author has been misled in regard to the native name of the Esopus clans. They were not Wampings. When Hudson discovered the liver which bears his name, they were
THE IxENNI LENAPE. 115
TcnowTi as Sanhikans or Sankhikans. Subsequently they were styled "Wabings, Wappings and Opings. These clans occupied the coimtry from the Hudson to the west-branch of the Delaware. The northern bounds of the Hardenbergh patent continued in a straight hne to the Hudson, will give their ancient bounds in that direction, while the Earitan, in New Jersey, was their southern limit. The Catskill Indians and those who occupied the Highlands of the Hiidson, were sometimes called Warana- wankongs, and those at Esopus Waoranecks. The Wappiugs of Dutchess county were a colony of the Esopus Lenape. Wab- ing, Wapping and Oping, are the same word — the Lenape name of the opossum. This animal was probably the totem of oui- Indians. Sanhikan means "fire-worker," according to Hecke- welder, and probably had its origin in the custom of these savages, when hunting, of circling their himting-gi'ound with fire, and thus driving their game into a small compass. Hecke- welder says that Minsi, the name of the Wolf tribe of the Delaware Indians, is derived fi-om minissi, "which signifies a peninsula."
CHAPTEE rV.
THE TOWN OF BETHEL.
Tlie town of Bethel was erected from the teiritory of Lumber- land by an act of the Legislature, passed March 27, 1809. By law the new town was bounded as follows : North by the south line of Liberty ; east by the west line of Thompson ; south by a line commencing at a place on the Mongaup creek where the west line of Thompson is intersected by the south line of the Hai'denbergh patent; thence north eighty-one degi-ees west to the south-west corner of lot number eighteen, in the subdivision of said patent ; thence north, nine degiees east, to the north line of lot number seventy-one, in the subdivision of said lot number eighteen; thence westwardly along the north Une of said lot number seventy-one to the westwardly bounds of this State, at the Delaware river; thence northwardly by the westwardly bounds of this State to the said town of Liberty.
Within these bounds were the "present towns of Bethel, Co- checton and Delaware. The first town-meeting was held at the house of Wilham Brown, in March, 1810, when the following officers were elected : John Conklia, Supervisor ; Wilham Brown, Town Clerk ; Charles Irvine, John Lindsley and William Brown, Assessors ; Joseph Mitchell, Russell Hurd and Zalmon Hawley, Commissioners of Highways ; Ohver Calkins and John Lindsley, Overseers of the Poor; Norman Judson, Constable; Moses Calkin, Constable and Collector.
This town is on the water-shed between the Mongaup and the Delaware. WhUe the Mongaup and one of its branches wash its eastern boundary, no large stream nins through its territory, although there are several creeks which afi"ord sufficient water-power for manufacturing purposes. Of these we may note Wliite Lake brook, the west-branch of the Mongaup,* and Black Lake brook.
The lakes of Bethel are remarkable for beauty and an abun- dance of fish.
For many years White Lake has been a fasluonable summer resoi-t. Its name was bi'stowed in consequence of its white,
* Jonas Oregory aBsurcd iih tlmt ono of tho aboriginal names of this stream wa» Uiu-gaa-pock-a, and that on an old map in his poBseBsiou it was so designated.
11161
THE TOWN OF BETHEL.
117
sandy shores and bottom, and the brilliancy of its waters. Kaii-ne-ong-ga, its supposed Indian appellation, occurs first in the writings of Alfrecf B. Street, and is said to be descriptive of the shape of the lake, which somewhat resembles the out- stretched Avings of a bird.
Black Lake is about two miles south of White Lake. As its name indicates, its water is of a dark hue. Its outlet is of con- siderable magnitude, and unites with the Mongaup. No other sheet of water in Sullivan has been more famous for pike than this. Anglers have been known to take from it half a barrel of these fish in a single day.
Lake Superior and Chestnut Ridge pond, like those already noticed, are centrally located. The name of the first originated in local pride, and the appellation of the other ex2:)lainR its origin. Wells' pond is so called from an early settler, and Indian Field, because the aborigines had cultivated land in its vicinity. Both are in the south part of the town. Mallory, in the west, also commemorates a pioneer; while the names of Pleasant pond, Horseshoe pond, and Birch Ridge pond, three small lakes in the northern section, explain their own origin.
The surface of this town is rolling and uneven ; but there is no elevation in it which may be termed a mountain. Although lumbering and tanning have been important industries, it is em- phatically an agi-icultural to^vn, as wiU be more and more clearly manifest as its forests are destroyed.
POPULATION— VALUATION — ^TAXATION.
Year.
Popu- lation.
Assessed Value.
Town Charges.
Co. and State.
1810
737
«2109n
$130.15 458.38 797.15 544.41 546.51 501.88 627.99
$288 99
1820
1,096! 237;i83 1,192 128,347 1,483 145 849
476.53
1830
816 00
1840
510 65
1850
2,087 2,854 2,736
193,369 393,255 230,295
1,203.14 3147 44
I860
1870
7,382.31
Undoubtedly the first white men who visited Bethel were hunters and trappers. Its numerous lakes and small streams made it a favorite resort of the beaver, the most valuable of fur- bearing animals, and its forests even in recent days have been noted for noble game.
Several causes led to the settlement of Bethel. 1. John K. Beekman owned Great Lot 16 of the Hardenbergh patent, and knew that his lands would continue to be nearly worthless unless
118 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
they were improved. 2. The Sackett road was made across the territory. 3. The Newbiu-gh and Cochecton tiu-npike was chartered in 1801, and effectually opened the region through which it passed. 4. The land was of excellent quality.
The first who came for the pui-pose of locating here were Adam Pintler and his brother, from Sussex county. New Jersey. Their route was by the way of the Shiugleltill to the Moiigaup on the old ]\linisink and Cushetunk road. After crossing Wood's biTidge, they traveled on the west side of the stream until they reached Black Lake brook ; thence along the latter to the lake ; and from there to the farm now occupied by the Pintlers. They probably did not remain any longer than was necessary to build a cabin to shelter then- families, who remained in New Jersey. Tins was about the year 1798.
I When they moved to their new home, they traveled by the way of Mamakating Hollow, and then passed over the Sackett road as far as Nathan Kinne's, in the West Settlement of Thompson. Beyond this there was no road over which a loaded vehicle could be drawn, although the Sackett road was soon after (1800) cut through to Cochecton ; consequently the}' were imder the necessity of can-ying tlieir household goods and pro- visions on their backs from Kinne's to their residence west of White Lake. Back and forth, piece by piece, looking well to the line of marked trees — the job was tedious and hard to ac- comphsh ; but it was jjerformed at last, and it does not require a vivid imagination to appreciate the Pintlers' satisfaction when the final back-load was deposited on the puncheons of their bark-covered cabin. Here they were in the pathless woods, some half a dozen miles from a neighbor, twenty-five miles from a giist-miU or a doctor, and a still greater distance from a store of any kind. UutU a gi-ist-mill was built at White Lake, the Pintlers were obhged to carry the flour consumed by them from Mamakating Hollow on then- shoulders. Sweet must have been the bread made fiom that flour ! And when they were able to feed a cow on the grass of their newly cleared fields, and had milk and butter with their bread, how luxurious must have seemed then- food ! Especially was it relished (the sweet, brown rye-loaf) when it was accompanied with venison and maple- sugar or honey.
Previous to settling in Bethel, Adam Pintler had married a yoimg lady whose courage and fortitude rendered her a wife every way suitable to an existence in the woods. And it is our duty to record the fact that Eve, the wife of the first white man of the town, did not lead her Adam into trouble, and that, if he found Bethel a paradise, her foUy never caused his expulsion from it.
The Pintlers occupied their farm until 1804 without knowing
THE TOWN OF BETHEL. 119
■who possessed the fee simple. They then ascertained that it was owned by John K. Beekman, from whom they puichased it. George and Peter Pintler, descendants of the origmal settlere, still occnpy the place.*
After the Sackett road was opened from Mamakating Hollow to the Delaware, and the Newburgh and Cochecton Turnpike C<Mnpany was organized, several families moved into the town. They were principally from Orange county, the States of New Jersey and Connecticut, and fi-om the north of Ireland. They were generally of small pecuniary means ; but intelligent, hardy and industrious. . In addition to this, many of them had had the advantage of con-ect moral example and training in the older consmunities from wliich they had emigi-ated. In 1807, there were between thirty and forty famHies located within the present hmits of the town. The foUowing memoranda in regard to them, made by the late Jonas Gregory, show where they settled. They were furnished us in 1870, when Mr. Gregory's mind was still vigorous; nevertheless it is possible that he has omitted the names of a few early settlers :
" I came to Bethel fi'om Blooming Grove, Orange countv, New York, June 7, 1807. There were then at WliiteLake, William Peckt and family, a gi-ist-miU and saw-miU; Edward Austin, who had a tan-yard and shoe-shop ; Obadiah Tibbetts, Michael Dekay and sons, and Jesse Crocker, all of whom were fi-om Orange county; two families of Pintlers from New Jersey; one named Potter from the same State ; and one named Thurston, from Salisbury, Cormecticut.
"At Mongaup Valley were Aaron Heuras, J. Hfeuras, E. Blanchard, Adam Barmore, and the noted Colonel Michael Mudge.
"In Hurd Settlement were two families named Hurd, viz: Graham and Chauncey Hurd ; also David Jackson, Jehiel and Joseph Smith, Gilbert and Aljijah Mitchell, and Thody Abbott.
"In the woods between Hurds' and White Lake were the
famihes of Abner HoUister, Nathan Heacock, Carey and
Alexander Brown.
" The Hm-ds, Jacksons, HoUister, Heacock and Carey were from Connecticut.
"West of White Lake were John Cross, Alexander Rutledge and William Brown from Ireland.
"At Black Lake, Walter Knapp and family, from Cornwall, Orange cormty. Knapp had a saw-miU, or there was one there.
" There were also in the town John Sherwood and Matthias Fuller, from Connecticut.
* statement of Jonaa Gregory.
t William Peck was Beekman's miller, and acted as his agent.
120 HISTORY OF SDIXrVAN COUNTY.
"There were also some single men and others who did not become residents, and two or three families in Fulton Settlement.
"John K. Beekman was the owner of Great Lot No. 16, in the Southern Range of the Great Patent, and it was through his efforts that many of the settlers came. He built a grist-mill and saw-miU on the outlet of TMiite Lake— the first in the town — for the accommodation of the people ; and at one time at- tempted to establish a linen thread manufactory in connection with his mills. To do so he purchased very valuable machinery in Europe, which was captured by the British during the war of 1812, while on its way to New York. It has been said that he intended to send flax fi-om the sea-board to White Lake ; cause it to be made into thread there ; and then cart the thread back to tide-water. This may be so ; but a more reasonable hypoth- esis is, that he intended to encourage the gi'owing of the raw article in Bethel, where it was then raised as cheaply as in any other towm of the United States.
"A to^Ti-meeting at which a vote was taken on the question of separation from Lumberland, was held in March, 1808, at the house of David Canfield, at Rocky pond, about two miles from the mouth of Ten Mile river. The poUs were open thi-ee days. Not a stone was left unturned. Every one voted who had a legal right to do so, and some who had no right. One man was taken by Peck's team, who had not been fi-om Ireland more than seven or eight months, and his vote counted as much as any other man's.
" The first Justice's court ever held in the town was at Jesse Crocker's, before Ichabod Carmichael, Esq., of Lumberland. The parties were Adam Barmore and Thomas Smith. The suit was concerning a dog that was shot while in chase of a deer. Barmore and Smith were their o\^ti pettifoggers.
"When the Hurds* commenced logging, they put stones between the logs to keep them asunder, supposing that they would burn better in that way.
" Mudge got his title of Colonel in the following manner : A worthless fellow, whose name was McKelpan, got in jail at Kingston for debt. Mudge had business at Kingston, and while there went to see McKelpan, who was an old acquaintance. As Mudge looked into the prison, 'Hello!' says the other, 'how do you do. Colonel? I am so glad to see you, Colonel! How's aU the folks'?' Mudge had a secret love of titles, and to be thus dubbed a Colonel in the presence of strangers pleased him, and put him in the best of humors. This the cunning fellow knew, and took advantage of, by imploring the Colonel to be his surety.
• Graham Hurd at first lived in a cave, which is still known as the Rock Cabin. Richard P. Chilrix, of Nev( rsink, informs us that, when he was a lad, he visited Hurd SettlemiBt, and "put up" at this cave.
THE TOWN OF BETHEL. 121
"Mudge conM not say, no! to one who thus tickled his vanity. He gave his bond for $100 — the fellow was permitted to enjoy the liberty of the jail, commonly kno\\Ti as 'the limits,' the boimds of which did not hold him long ; for he ran away, and the Colonel had to pay the amount of the bond, which his friends persisted in terming his commission. Although he has been dead many years, he is yet remembered as Colonel Miidge.
"The first settlers came to the village of Bethel about the year 1802. They came on the Sackett road, which had been cut throiigh but a short time.
" One of the Pintlers carried flour on his back over this road, from Gumaer's grist-mill in Mamakating."
In January, 1870, there were, including Jonas Gregory, but six men in the town who were there in 1807. Most of the origi- nal famihes have disappeared — not even their names are now borne by residents of Bethel.
Jonas Gregory (1870) has a copy of "Webb's map of 1762, which shows that Tingley & Cox, Catharine Livingston, Philip Livingston, Cornelius Tiebout, John Aspinwall, WiUiam Alex- ander, Kobert Livingston and Christian Hartell were among the principal owners of lands in Great Lots 1 and 18. From this it seems that John Wenham sold these lots soon after the partition of 1749, by which he became their owner.
John Lindsley came to Bethel in 1805, and was the first practicing physician of Bethel. He was a gentleman of irre- proachable character — was elected Member ot Assembly in 1823 and 1829, and was the standing Supervisor of his town until he declined the office because he could no longer conscientiously act as a member of the To^vn Board of Excise. He removed to Indiana about the year 1835. While he was a resident of Bethel, he Uved at the A. HoUister place. Doctor A. A. Gillespie, one of his pupils, succeeded him, and is still practicing his profession. The professional life of the two, in Bethel, extends through a period of more than sixty-five years.
A man named Dewitt was one of the early preachers of the town. His meetings were held at the house of John Cross. Messrs. Greer, Fislv, McCauley, Hopkins, and others, also preached here in the primitive days of the settlement.
John Cross kept the first store, which was where (1870) George O. Frazer resides.
In 1807 and 1808 there was a school in Hurd Settlement kept by Joseph Smith, and another in the rear of P. J. Pintler's present residence, of which Thaddeus Judson was the teacher. Doctor Copeland, it is said, kept the fh'st school at Bethel, and G. P. Price at Mongaup Valley.
Abraham Pintler was the first white person who died in the town, Nat. Peck the second, and James Potter's wife the third.
122 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUSTT.
The first tavern was kept by Jesse Crocker. He was much liked, as his conduct was shaped ui accordance with the " square" rules of honesty and fair dealing. Mr. Crocker was the first Justice of the town.
The pioneers of Bethel were of a more thriving class of people than first comers generally are. As an evidence of this, we mention the fact that in half a dozen years after White Lake was settled, there were five fi-ame-houses ia the town. These were occupied by Messrs. Peck, Austin, Crocker, Judson and Cross.
The noi-th-east section was settled from 1805 to 1808, by the Fidtons, Zalmon Hawley, James Luckey, Joseph Pinckney, WUham Fraser, Stephen Northrup, and others. In 1808, there were nine families in that section.
According to the loose statements which usually characterize gazetteers, Catharine Fulton was the first white child bom in the town. "WTien she first saw the hght, there were not less than twenty famihes in the present Uniits of Bethel, some of whom had been there fi'om six to nine years. The priority of her bu-th is tnie as to Fulton Settlement only.*
This section was fi-om the fii'st very attractive. Those who occupied it were generally men of worth, who were contented with the good things witliiu their reach, and with stri^^ng for those things which concern the highest interests of the human family. They avoided broiling and contention, and were in- dustrious aijd fi-ugal.
Stephen Northriip was bom in Sahsbiiry, Connecticut, in 1780^ and died in Fulton Settlement in 1872. At the time of his de- cease, he was the last of the pioneers of his locahty. He came to Bethel in May, 1807, and after Aae\\iag the country, concluded to go back to his bkthplace. When he reached the Neversiok, he met Zalmon Hawley, one of his old neighbors, who was moving to Bethel with his family. Hawley was very glad to meet him ; but soiTy to learn that he was retui-niug. After a conversation concerning their afi'au-s, Northrup was led to alter his purpose once more, and again return to Fulton Settlement.
This meeting took place on the east side of the Neversink. The river was very much swollen by the spring raius. There was no bridge, and the foi'd was impassable : at least Hawley did not dare to put his oxen, cart, wife and childi'en in peril by attempting to cross in the usual manner. So he took the yoke from the necks of his cattle, and compelled them to s^^•im over a short distance fi-om the ford, where the water was smooth and deep. Then he unloaded his cart, took off its wheels aaid box, and conveyed or towed every thing to the opposite shore in or
THE TOWN OF BETHEL. 123
behind a log canoe ! The task was difficult and dangerous : but was safely performed, and the adventurers proceeded on their
They spent two days in traveling from the Neversink to the west-branch of the Mongaup. When they passed the latter, a heavy rain set in. Night was approaching, and they were in an almost trackless forest, far from human habitation. The dis- comfoi-ts of the day were bad enough ; but they werafar exceeded by the prospective miseries of the night. The first care of the men was for the yoimg mother and her two little childi-en. With an axe they made the frame of a diminutive tent, which they covered with blankets. In this, Mrs. Hawley and the little ones passed the dismal night, while the men fared as well as they could under the dripping trees.
On the third day they reached a dealing made by one of the Fidtons, where they found a deserted cabin. Into this Hawley moved. Having thus piloted his friends to their neM' home, Noi-thrup retiuTied to Connecticut, and three weeks later came back with his family. After occupying a temporary shelter for a few months, he moved to the place where he spent the re- mainder of his days. During the last fifty-six years of his life, his daily walk and conversation were in accord with the strict rules of the Presbyterian faith. He never soiight to oc- cupy a conspicuous position in this life ; but was content with what was far better: the discharge, honestly and earnestly, of those duties which give Hfe and beaiity to Christian society.
Joseph K. Northnip, a son of Stephen, was the first male child born in Fulton Settlement.
We have akeady alluded to William Brown, one of the pio- neer's of Bethel. He was a native of Ireland, and exhibited many of the traits of the "north-country" — traits which, if modified by a certain degree of mental culture, are apt to give a man prominence and weight in some communities, but which are repulsive to many gentle and refined people, and especially so to those whose gentility borders on the effeminate. Mr. Brown was a farmer, inn-keeper, surveyor and office-holder. On the organization of the town he was elected Clerk, and when the county was erected, he was made its Treasurer. He held the latter office until 1826, and was succeeded by Jesse Towner, of Thompson.
Mr. Brown believed that the opening of a great thoroughfare from Newburgh to Cochecton would soon add much to the population and business of the country through Avhich it passed. He came to Bethel before the road was located in that region, and bought a tract of land through which he was led to believe the turnpike would run. But he was disappointed. The hne was made to nin north of his purchase, and his aim in coming
124 HISTOKY OF SULLIVAN OOtTNTt.
to Bethel would be defeated unless he co\ild buy another tract through which the road would be built. TVTiile making arrange- ments to do so, Samuel F. Jones of Monticello learned Brown's intention, and determined to buj the land himself. The owner lived in Albany, and Jones started for that city by the way of Newburgh. At the latter place he expected to "take passage in a sloop to the State capital. After he left home the object of Jones' journey became public, and Brown determined promptly to reach Albany first by the overland route. He mounted his horse and proceeded to Kingston by the most direct roads. From Kingston he rode to Albany, at which place he arrived in advance of Jones. With the deed for the land in his pocket, Brown met his wily competitor in the streets of Albany and derided him in true "north-country" style.
The affair caused considerable amusement at the time, and it was reported that BronTi used his surveyor's compass to enable him to travel in a straight course from Bethel to Albany. Of course, this part of the story was a canard, as no horse could then cross the Catskill mountains, or pass through our tangled woods.
The late Matthew Brown was a son of Wilham, and inherited a full measure of the craft and cunning of his father.
William Brown was a slave-holder, and owned a black female chattel as late as 1828, when she became free under the laws of the State.
There is ground for belief that Rev. Thomas Greer, a Presby- terian clergyman of Minisink, Orange county, was the first minister of the gospel who visited the town of Bethel, where he preached as early as 1808, in the tavern kept by Jesse Crocker, which was nearly opposite the ground on which now stands the parsonage of the Covenanter or Reformed Presbyterian Church of White Lake.
Mr. Greer was a plain, earnest man, and did not highly value an elegant exterior, or seek respect and admiration by those polite artifices which mark the conduct of less worthy men. His deportment was quiet and unobtrusive. While pastor of the Westtown congregation, he loved to seek "jewels for his Master" in the by-ways of the wilderness country, and while thus engaged, bore the ills and discomforts of, a frontier-life without complaint. Cheerfully he forded our rivers, and hopefully he threaded our forest-paths, while seeking some settlement in the wilds ; for in the future he saw that the scene of his toil would be occupied by a numerous population, and that his laboi-s would inure to their benefit, as weU as promote the highest interests of those who had " wandered into a far country."
Previous to Mr. Greer's first visit to White Lake, some of the settlers had heard of him ; but none of them had ever seen him.
THE TOWN OF BETHEL. 125
He sent word to them that on a certain Sabbath he would "preach for them at Crocker's house," and the news was joyfully com- municated from the dwellers in one log-house to those of another, until every one far and near knew that he was coming. They were to have preaching again — a privilege which they had enjoyed in the older settlements, but which they had not antici- pated for many years after their removal to White Lake.
Mr. Greer reached Crocker's on Saturday ; and was surprised at finding quite a number of people collected there, who were evidently laboring under excitement, a circumstance which was owing to a trial before a Justice of the Peace, the Htigants being a couple of backwoodsmen who had a dispute about some trivial matter. Finding that no one recognized him, he concluded that he would not make himself known, until it was necessary to do so, and that he would quietly study the character of the people when they were unrestrained by the conciousness that the eyes of a clergyman were upon them. He soon found that the sins which predominate among men removed from the re- straints of older and larger communities, prevailed among the settlers of Bethel. Too many of those present were addicted to rum-drinking, profanity and kindred vices, the trial having brought together all the tiplers and tavern-loungers of that section of country. His pious soul was shocked at seeing God's image distorted and marred by inebriation; at hearing rude jests and blasphemous reviliugs come from mouths which shordd have uttered words of purity and praise ; at the violent buifetings administered by hands which should have been em- ployed in useful industry, or used in works of mercy and love ; and at other conduct which showed that this people needed admonition of "the wrath to come."
While he was gazing at the doings of the crowd, he attracted the attention of a man who was just drunk enough to discover that there was antagonism of some kind between the parson and himself. This man came up to Mr. G. and proposed to fight him ; but i' • latter mildly dechned, when the other, somewhat astonished, demanded to know whether he could fight — fighting probably being one of the accomphshments of that day. Mr. Greer repUed that he did not know ; that when he was young he had done something at it ; but that he feared he was then out of practice. The bellicose individual then knocked off Mr. Greer's hat, in order to aggravate him ; but he quietly picked it up and got away, much to the disgust of the other, who con- sidered, as did many others, that he had done all that could be expected to arouse the wrath of the stranger.
At night the drinking and profanity continued to a late hour. Mr. Greer, fatigued with his journey, and saddened by what he had witnessed, retired early, but not to rest. His bed was di-
lae
HISTORY OF SULLTVAN COUNTY.
rectly over the bar-room, and with his whispered evening-prayer were mingled the fumes of whisky and Jamaica mm, and the uproar of the revelers. To sleep was impossible as long as the carousing was kept up ; and the only recoui'se of the good man was to watch the stars through the roof, and to endeavor to possess his soul in patience.
About midnight, a tipsy individual came to the room where Mr. Greer was, and after undressing, reprimanded him for occu- pying more than half the bed. Without a murmur, he moved as far to one side as possible,* when his xmexpected bed-fellow laid down beside him, remarking that "it was a devil of a pretty place to put a gentleman (meaning himself) where the Lor& could look right downi upon him throiigh the roof!" The "gen- tleman," however, did not seem to suffer much by any such intrusion upon his privacy; for he was soon fast asleep, and snoring loudly, much to the annoyance of the poor missionary.
The whole night was a very unpleasant one to Mr. Greer. He did not get asleep until near morning, and was soon after aroused by his feUow-lodger, who complained that he was dry, and invited him to go down and take a drink. Mr. Greer begged to be excused, and said he would trv' to sleep a little more. The "gentleman" then dressed, and went in pursuit of something to moisten his tongue and throat.
Mr. Greer slept again ; but his slumber was brief. Soon after dayhght, the landlady began to biistle about the house. She had breakfast to prepare, and her household goods to put in order. It was necessary that every thing should appear deceit when the minister came. Finding that Mr. Greer was still in bed, and not inclined to get up, she was considerably vexed, and cried out to him, "Old man, you had better get out of that! We are going to have preaching here to-day by Mr. Greer, and must clean up the house !"
Of course, the " old man" abandoned his couch without fiuiher warning. After washing his face and hands, and combing his disordered locks in the open air, he took a short walk, and then had breakfast, when he felt much refreshed. While loitering around the premises, in reply to some inquu-y, he said that, "if they were to have preaching, he would stay, especially as he did not hke to travel on the Sabbath."
The necessary preparations were made for the meeting. Benches were extemporized — a table for the minister placed in the right position — the table covered with a clean linen cloth, upon which were laid a Bible and a volume of Hvimis and
Psalms, and the conduct of aU approached nearer and nearer » what was fit and proper for the day and the occasion. By-and-by, the people beo;an to assemble by ones, and twos
THE TOWN OF BETHEL, 127
somewhat disappointed when they learned that he had not. Many anxious glances were cast in the direction from which he was expected. The time for the opening exercises was near ; some who had come for worthy purposes, looked serious and downcast, thinking, perhaps, that their time on earth was rapidly shpping away, while they remained among those who were not with God's elect, and seriously asking themselves whether God woidd ever move them to forsake their sins, and Hve according to His laws. Others, who were more volatile, amused themselves in various ways. Among other things, it was proposed that one of the company should personate Mr. Greer, and he was accord- ingly installed as the preacher for the day, and proceeded to read a chapter fi-om the Bible.
The "old man," as they called Mr. Greer, during these per- formances, was a quiet spectator ; but when the appointed time came, he arose and said, "If you have no objection, / wiU be Mr. Greer." As no one objected, he proceeded with the service, took a text, and preached an excellent sermon, in which he told some very pertinent truths and gave them much wholesome advice, which we may beheve-was siuted to the capacity and habits of those who listened.
His hearers were greatly mortified at having treated "the old man" nidelj', and they made many apologies, all which he ac- cepted with his usual kindness and good nature.
The good people of Bethel never treated him with neglect afterwards ; biit we are soriy to say that he became unpopular at a subsequent period with the rigid professors of Presbyteri- •anism.
In the early settlement of our county, the Presbyterians and Baptists stniggled, each for their o^^ti communion, to obtain the vantage ground. Fierce and unj-ielding was the controversy concerning the lawfulness of "sprinkhug." In the bar-room and in the pulpit, at the logging-fi-ohc and at the prayer-meeting — anywhere and everywhere, when a few of the profane or the pious came together, the controversy was earned on — sometimes with good nature — sometimes angrily — always earnestly. It was not surprising, therefore, that, while some saw their way clear so far as the subject in dispute was concerned, others became confused and bewildered. Of the latter class were two rorestburgh converts. They were Presbyteiians ; but they would not enter the Church as members, except in the manner prescribed by the Baptists. And so Mr. Greer immersed them, like a good liberal soul, as he was. Both sprinkling and im- mersion were la^\-fiil in his eyes.
Many Presbyterians thought he yielded too much to the Baptists, and some imagined, probably, that he would desert
IZO HISTORY OF SULLTVAU COUNTY,
the Church of Calvin ; but he remained faithful to the Presby- terians as long as he lived.*
People who Uve in a new and sparsely settled region are ofteiu called upon to make considerable saci-ilices ia the cause of hu- manity and mercy, and however loose may be the ties which sometimes bind together such communities, but few jjersons thus situated refuse to freely give their time and means to reheve the distress of a neighbor. If his cabin takes lii-e fi'om the buiuing woods, they turn out and build another for him ; if he is from any cause unable to plant his newly cleared fields, or- gather his crops, they lend him a helj)iug hand ; indeed, if any misfortune befalls an upright and hard-working pioneer who is not himself a thoroughly selfish maai, other honest and laborious pioneei'S wiU fi'eely assume each his portion of the calamity.
Perhaps nothiug will so stir then- symjiathies as an alarm that a child is missuig or lost iu the woods. In 1810, nearly the entire population of Bethel consumed eight days in searching the ■wilderness for a Httle boy named John Glass, and did not cease to hunt for him until they relinquished all hope that he was hving.
The parents of this lad Hved near T^Tiite Lake. During the summer of the year mentioned, his mother sent him about a mile into the woods to carry dinner to some men who were en- gaged in chopping. He reached them safely, and started for home, after which he wandered fi-om the track which led to his father's house, and became hopelessly bewildered. He was not missed until eveniug, when the choppers retui'ned home -nithout him, and it was found that he had not reached the house pre- viously. Every parent may imagine the scene which then ensued — the distress of the mother, and the wild energy and activity of the father. The night was spent in giviug utterance to fi-antic misery by the one ; and in a fmitless search by the other, assisted by all who had heard of the cii-cumstauce. In the morning the news was spread far and wide, and all joined iu beating the swamps and thickets, and so contiaued to do fi-om day to day until they lost couiage and hope. No trace of the lost child was found, and every one believed that he hatl perished fi'om terror, himger and exposure, or had met with a more speedy and less fearful fate by being devoured by wild beasts, which then and there were known to be numerous and ferocious.
When young Glass left the path, he traveled almost directly from home. AVhen night overtook him, he laid down beside a fallen tree, weary, huugry and half crazed, and slept imtil morning. He then started again at random to find his way out of the woods. He thus continued to wander for ten days, with
* Vnbnl statement of Simron M. .Tordan.
J
THE TOWN OF BETHEL. 12&
nothing to eat except a few wild berries, and seeing no- living thing except an occasional beast or bird of the forest. One night, as he was in a fevered sleep, he was awakened by the bleating of a deer, and then heard the angry snarl and growl of a catamount, and knew that the ferocious animal was drinking, the blood of his harmless victim.
On the eleventh day of his wandering, he was a pitiable object. His body was emaciated and lacerated, his feet were sore and swollen, his clothing was in tatters, and he was so worn and exhausted that he could with difficulty stand up. He .would have soon laid down to die, when he heard a distant cow-bell. The sound gave him renewed life. He tottered forward in the direction from which it came, and discovered a clearing, in which were several cattle. It was near night. The animals, when they saw him, started slowly for home. With the utmost chffi- culty he followed them. Finally his strength so far failed that he was obliged to crawl upon his hands and knees. He con- tinued to do so until he saw the house of a person named Lair, who lived on the Oallicoon.
When Mrs. Lair went out to milk the cows, she discovered, the poor lost boy upon the ground near her door, and throwing down her pail, took him in her arms, and carried him into her dwelling. Notwithstanding she hved on the outskirts of civili- zation, and was unlearned and almost beyond the influence of Christianity, she had a good, motherly heart and a sound head. She treated the lost boy as kindly as if he had been her own son, and -with as good judgment as if she had been one of the regular faculty. She washed him, dressed his sores, and put him in a warm, soft bed, and then gave him nourishing food in small quantities. Soon he was able to tell his name and resi- dence. News of his escape was sent to his friends, who for two days had ceased to search for him, believing that he was dead.
James Glass lived to be an old man. For many years he had a home with William Stewart. He never fully recovered fi'om the efl'ects of his adventures in the woods, and always needed the controlling influence of a mind more sound than his own.*"
About the year 1811, WilUam Gillespie removed from the city of New York to Bethel. Li conjunction with Josiah C. Hook,. Mr. Gillespie established a store at Wliite Lake — the second hi the town. Until his death, Mr. GUlespie was a highly respect- able resident of Bethel. In 18"20, he was elected a Member of Assembly from Ulster and Sullivan counties, and we beheve at one time was the candidate of his political j^arty for Eepresent- ative in Congress in opposition to Charles H. Kuggles ; l)ut was defeated. He was a Judge of the Court of Connuon Pleas for
* HunteiB of Sallivaii.
130 HI8T0KY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
nearly twenty years, and First Judge of the county from 1835 to 1844, when be became ineligible from age. He was also a Commissioner of Loans for several years, as well as a Euling Elder of the Associate Refonned Church. He was emphatically an honest man, and exhibited every trait of a devout and sincere Christian. His death was very sudden. On Sunday, May 28, 1849, he attended church as usual ; was taken ill on his retiu-n home, and died at 4 o'clock on Monday morning.
Mr. Hook, who was associated with Mr. Gillespie in business in the«early days of the town, was a gentleman of the old school — of lofty and pretentious bearing — ceremonious and hospitable. He was Supervisor of Bethel for several years. His old age was marked by misfortune. His pride was chastened by poverty. On the 20'th of Febmary, 1841, Edward, a much-loved son, was lost at sea by the capsizing of the schooner Thre^ Friend.s, while passing from St. Josejih's to Mobile, soon after which Mr. Hook removed from the town.
Jesse Crocker, the first tavern-keeper of Bethel, was a man •who enjoyed the respect and esteem of the public ; but he carried on a business which almost always brings sorrow and sufi'ering to the families of those who engage in it as well as to the families of their customers. If we doubted the doctrine of compensation for sin in this hfe as well as in the life to come, our doubts would be removed by studying the history of men who have been aptly styled retailers of liquid damnation. If they do not themselves become the victims of their own calling, they generally Hve to see some one as dear as their own souls reduced by it until he sinks below the level of a beast.
Nelson Crocker, a descendant of the old tavem-ki*eper, was equally noted for his love of hunting, his blasted life, and his tragic death. No hunting-party was complete without him. He knew every foot of the woods, and when he accompanied an expedition after game, his companions felt sure of success. Many interesting anecdotes could be told of his adventiires ; but the following, which we find in the "Hunters of Sullivan," must suffice :
" Crocker often hunted north-west of Big pond, in the \-icinity of 'Painter Swamp.' During the days of Joseph Peck, Paul Horton, WilUam Brown and Jared ^cott, this ground was as good for deer-hunting as any other, and where these animals were most numerous, panthers generaUy abounded. Nelson here found more of the last-named than he \*ished to see. Wliile on the outskirts of the swamp with his dog, he struck the trail of no less than seven panthers. The panther is gener- ally found singly, or at most in pairs. Why so many of them were here together is a matter of conjecture. It was probably the rutting season with them, and that there were six males in
» THE TOWN OF BETHEL. 131
pursuit of a single female. The fact that Nelsou found them unusuall}- ferocious eive.s color to this supposition.
" Crocker followed their tracks until he was hungi-v, when he sat down upon a log to eat his luncheon. This he di^-ided into two parcels, one of which he offered to his dog ; but the latter, instead sharing of his master's repast, showed his teeth and seemed to be bristling for a fight with an unseen enemy. Just as the hunter swallowed his last morsel, a large panther sprang by him like a flash, almost brushing his shoulder as it passed. Crocker caught up his old General Moigan rifle, and firing at random, saw the beast disappear unharmed. An instant after- wards his dog was fighting another feline monster at a little distance ; but the terrible claws of the panther were too much for the poor cur, which gave up the battle, and ran to his mas- ter for protection, while the panther fled. As Crocker was reloading, he saw another running toward him. He yelled at it, and it ran iip a tree. This one he fired at and killed. Al- most as soon as he could load his rifle again, he saw another, and succeeded in sending a bullet into it. Then the fright of his dog, which seemed to feel safe nowhere except between his feet, and the screaming of the panthers in almost every direc- tion, caused him to lose heart. He made up his mind that he had better get out of the swamp without unnecessary- delay. He ran for safer groiind, and while doing so, his hat was shoved from his head by the limbs of a bush. He did not stop to pick up his displaced head-gear ; but continued to run until he be- lieved he was oiit of danger.
" On the succeeding day. Nelson determined to revisit the scene of his adventure, and skin his game and recover his hat. While doing so he discovered a large male panther in the crotch of a tree, and fired at it. It fell ; but immediately ran up a sapling until it reached the top ; when the sapling bent with the weight of. the beast until its limbs reached the ground. As tlie panther came down, the dog, forgetting the rough usage of the previous day, stood ready for another battle. A brief struggle ensiied, with much snarling, yelping and flying of hair. The dog was speedily whipped, and fled toward his master, with his antago- mst close to his heels. Crocker's rifle was unloaded. He had no stomach for a hand-to-claw encounter, and very sensibly concluded that he would run too. A race then ensued in which the dog was ahead, the hunter next, with the panther in the rear, driving all before it. Nelson expected every instant to feel the weight and the talons of his pursuer upon his shoulders, and consequently made excellent time. Finding his rifle an encumbrance, he threw it away. This proved his salvation ; for the beast stopped a moment to smell it, and decide whether it should be torn to pieces. This enabled Nelson to get out of the
132 mSTOBY OF BUIiLIVAN COUNTy.
swamp before the panther could catch him, and it did not seetn disposed to follow him to the upland.
'"After waiting several houi'S, Crocker, armed with nothing but his hatchet and hunting-knife, started for his gun, and recovered it. After I'eloading, he endeavored to make his dog foUow the panther's track; but the cur had had enough of panther-hunting, and refused to stir an inch. They then went a few yards from the swamp, when the dog commenced howling. The panther answered with a loud squall, and repeated the challenge as it approached for another fight. The dog crouched close to the hunter's feet. Nelson, who had so recently fled ingloriously, because no glory could be won with an empty rifle in a fight with a panther, now cooUy awaited the approach of the ferocious monster. Soon the beast appeared. Nelson covered it with the muzzle ; but reserved his fii-e until the animal was within one boimd of him, when he sent a ball crashing into its brain.
"Without further adventure, he skinned the game he had shot during the two days, and returaed home. There are men yet hviug who saw the pelts of the panthers he shot in 'Painter Swamp.'
As we have ah-eady intimated, Nelson Crocker was of respect- able parentage. Alcoholic hquors were the bane of his hfe. A depraved appetite was rapidly sinking him in the social scale to the level of the vagrant and pauper. This he knew and deplored, as does almost every other poor drunkard who is passing down the incUned plane of decency to destraction. For twenty-five years, he frequently lost all control of himself, and continued in a state of beastly intoxication for days and weeks. Then would foUow a sober interval, and expressions of bitter regiet for his excesses. Sometimes he declared that death was preferable to a hfe of diTinkeu degi'adation. In the summer of 1843, when the total abstinence reform was potent, he joined the Temper- ance Society of Bethel, and for nearly three months successfully resisted the enemy of his life. Kind hands were extended to him — cheering smiles brightened the road to honor and useful- ness. But in an evil hour-, he joined Jacob Hunger and others of his old associates in a hunting-expedition, who took with them a supply of rum. After searching the woods for game, the party gathered at night in a hunter's hut in the woods. Here, as was their custom, they spent the evening merrily, and di-ank fi-eely, and here Crocker violated his pledge. A wild debauch of aVeeks duration followed. When Nelson awoke from it, it seemed to him tliat his last hope of a better life was lost ; that death was preferable to a life of shame and self-imposed abase- ment ; and so the old hunter, by shooting liimself , added the
THE TOWN OF BETHEL. 133
horrible oifense of self-murder to the comparative venalities of his life.
Bears still abound in Bethel, and when wounded or defending their young, are sufficiently ferocious to afford the hunter all the excitement he should desire. Under such circumstances, they do not hesitate to attack a man. Many have had battles with them ; but notwithstanding the great strength and weight of bears, and their tenacity of hfe, no one in Sullivan has been fatally injured by them.
In November, 1865, James F. Calbreath was hunting in a laurel swamp about three miles from White Lake. He was armed with a rifle and revolver, and had with him two or three good dogs. The' latter found a very large she-bear, and two well-gi'own cubs, and a noisy battle immediately ensued lietween the dam and dogs, while the young animals ran away, and were passing Mr. Calbreath, when a bullet from his rifle caused one of them to fall. He immediately reloaded, hoping to get a shot at the one with which his dogs were fighting ; but much to his surprise the one he had shot got upon its feet, and ran toward him in a rage. A second ball caused it to tumble over, squall- ing for help. The mother, hearing the signal of distress, rushed toward the spot, and crashed through the laurels. AVhen she came within sight, Mr. Calbreath attempted to shoot her with his revolver. It snapped. He tried again. The caps were worthless. What was to be done ? An unloaded rifle, a useless revolver, encompassed on every side by tangled laurels, and an enraged bear approaching and within twenty feet of him, did not afford a flattering prospect of longevity. With a vi^ad prospect of being crushed, torn to pieces, and devoured, he dropped his revolver, clubbed his rifle, and stood ready to de- Hver at least one stunning blow upon the head of his rapidly approaching enemy, when the dogs rushed up behind, and fast- ened their teeth into the hams of Mrs. Bruin. The effect was magical. She turned about in a fury to avenge the insult, ran after her assailants, and failing to reach them, went away, appar- ently forgetting her human foe altogether. Mr. Calbreath was thus left "master of the situation," and escaped uninjiired. Wliother he remained in the swamp long enough to skin his game, we cannot say; but of this we are certain, the young bear was taken from the woods by some one. It was very fat and weighed one hundred pounds.*
BusHVTLLE.— About the year 1850, Abial P. Bush, General Luther Bush, and other members of the same family, built a tannery at this place. The estabhshment brought disaster to them, as well as financial ruin to their successors and others.
* Sullivan County Bepablican.
134 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
In March, 1852, the Bushville post-office was estabhshed, of which Myron Graut was the first post-master.
MoNGAUP Valley. — Until l^i47, this place was knowTi as the Mongauji Mill — u grist-mill having been built by the T>i\nngsfnTi family at the point where the Newburgh and Cochecton turnpike crosses the Mongaup. Great Lot 15 was owned by that family, and finally passed to the chilcb-eu of John C. TUlotson, whose wife was a Li^^Ilgston. In 1807, five famihes were Hving in the valley or its neighborhood. Forty years later, there were but four dwelling-houses in the place, and about twenty-five in- habitants.
A new era then commenced. The magic rod of entei-prise touched the valley, and it awoke fi-om the sleep of ages. .The days of passive respectability were passed, and the wise spiiit of progi-ess ruled.
The Messrs. Iviersted Saw that Mongaup Valley possessed superior advantages for manufactuiing leather. In 1817, they purchased a site for a tannery and village. They also bought the hemlock-bark on ten thousand acres of land in Great Lot 15, and in 1848, with John W. Swann, a practical tanner, put up extensive buildings. The erection of one of the best-ordered and best-managed tanneries in the country was soon followed by the building of dweUiugs and places of business, which are second to none in the town. In 1859, a census was taken, when it was found that the place contained fifil iuhal)it;uits, of whom 365 were under 20 years of age. Of the residents, 177 were bom in the L'nited States, 167 in L'eland, and 20 elsewhere. 277 were Roman Cathohcs.*
The post-office at Mongaup Valley was established in 1848, when Wynkoop Kiersted was appoiated post-master.
The place has had two physicians. The second, Isaac Pm-dy, M. D., is stiU in practice, and the otlier, James W. Wells, M. D., died in 1858.
Mongaup Valley has had but one lawyer (Robert L. TUlotson), who found so httle to do that he joined the federal army during the gi-eat rebeUion, and died while serving his country. Robert L. TiUotson was of a genial and pleasant humor — an aristocrat by bii-th — a man of the people at heart. Ever bubbhng over with T^'it, he was yet chivalrous and punctUious. Unfortunately he was of convivial inclinations, and had not sufficient moral stamina to resist his morbid appetite — a fact which he himself deplored. He was a duellist withal. The following anecdote of him is authentic :
With a young gentleman named Anthon and other fiiends, TiUotson visited a fashionable restaurant in the city of New
* MSS. of Peter M. Lorgan.
IHB TOWN OP BETHEL. 135
York. While there, he believed that Anthon wilKnUy insulted him, and promptly challenged him. Anthou chose Bowie knives as weapons, and both proceeded with their seconds to a cele- brated duelling-gromid m Vu-ginia. TiUotson had been an adept in manly sports ; but was then partially disabled by paralysis. He knew that his antagonist could cut him to pieces in less than ten seconds ; yet he was determined to fight, and take the con- sequences. On the other hand, the physical disparity between the two was so great, that Anthon would have committed down- right murder by can-ying the afl'aii- to extremity. Therefore, when all was ready for a deadly encounter, Anthon tlirew away his weapon and apologized. The parties then became reconciled.
Black Lake. — This hamlet takes its name fiom the lake near which it is situated. A sole-leather tannery was established here by Strong & Mitchell. It was subsequently owned by Medad T. Morss, of Woodbourne.
Among the former residents of Bethel about whom we intended to make inquiries, are the following: EHas Sanford, Captain Asa Robinson, Eleazer Everard, Setli Whitlock, John Ramsey, Ai-chibald Coleman, Henry H. Crist, Robert McCrabbie, John Voorhes, Asahel HoUister, Abner Lyon, Charles Dekay, Lee Mitchell, Thomas Lyon, Captain Romar, John Coots, John Potts, Hugh Dunlap, and others. But we have ah'eady reached the hmits of the space we can devote to personal sketches in this chapter.
Bethel has been generally exempt fi-om prevailing diseases. This, however, has not prevented its people from indulging in panics on account of apprehended maladies. In July, 1832, when Asiatic cholera fiij-st visited the city of New York, they feared that it would sweep over the hills of SuUivan, and deci- mate Bethel. A Board of Health was organized, of which Josiah C. Hook was chairiaau, Nathan J. Sherwood secretary, Doctor John Lindsley health-officer, and J()hn Maffit, Nathan J. Sherwood and John Barhyte a committee to care for the sick. Not one of this self-sacrificmg committee ever saw a case of cholera.
The people who were so much terrified by ciiolera, were less apprehensive of the miasmatic diseases of the far West. In 1836, a few families removed fi-om the town to the State of Indiana, and during the first year of tlieir residence there eight individuals died. There were not as many deaths in Bethel during the same year.
Scarlet fever and diphtheria are the most fatal diseases which have visited the town. In the fall of 1861, the latter caused great mortality among children. In a single family (Philip S. Fulton's) no less than seven children died from it within a few weeks.
136 HISTORY OF SULLIVAN COUNTY.
"White Lake. — White Lake is a beautiful sheet of pure, clear water. It has been supposed that the Indians gave it the name of Kau-ne-ong-ga. That it was frequented by native tribes for the purpose of fishing is beyond doubt, as darts and other relics have been found on its shores. It is possible its waters have been stained with the blood of battle. But the trail of the red man of the forest has been lost to the memory of hving men, and the natural loveliness of the place which must have attracted even the rude savage, now occupies in cultured society the pen of the poet and the pencil of the artist.
This is the deepest lake in the couniy. By actual measure- ment James E. Munger found the northern end 80 feet deep, and the Narrows 70 feet deep. Until pike were put into the lake, it contained the largest trout in the world.* It is known that the brook-trout ( salmo fontinalis ) have carmine spots ; lake- trout (salmo confinis) have not. The White Lake trout had carmine spots. Charles Fenno Hoffman, an author of some celebrity, says he saw one, in the winter of 1832, taken fi-om White Lake which weighed 6 pounds. Louis Pyatt caught one in February-, 1843, which weighed 8 pounds and 14 ounces. Some. weeks later, a gentleman from Newburgh caught another weighing 7 pounds and 6 ounces. In the year 18-43, John B. Finlay employed an Indian to take black bass from Luke George and put them into White Lake, from which they have been dis- tributed to other lakes.
Fed by internal springs, the lake has no inlet ; but there is an outlet with water-power sufficient for two mills. In the year A. D. 1804, J. K. Beekman, residing in New York city, who' owned Great Lot 16 of the Hardenbergh Patent, sent his agent, Wil- liam Peck, to make improvements. Mr. Peck built a saw-mill and a grist-miU, and one or two other buildings at the outlet. The grist-mill was rebuilt in 1812, and machinery put in the basement for spinning flax. The business, which was conducted under the supervision of Alexander Starret, was closed in 1815.
In 1811, William Gillespie erected a store-house on the turn- pike, near the lake, and, as considerable travel had commenced by this time, a hotel was opened and kept by Doctor Lindsley. For many years a few summer-boarders fi-equented the place. In 1846, J. B. Finlay put up the first hotel for the sjiecial benefit of this class of people. It was kept by Simeon M. Jordan, George B. Wooldridge.t Stephen Sweet, and others. But the
* Since this was written, we have been informed by Seth Green, one of the Fish Comraisaiouers of this State, that George S. Page, of No. 10 Warren street, New York, caught a brook-trout in Maine, which weighed t-en pounds.
t Mv. Wooldridge was an ilUterate man, and jet a paid contributor of several Now York pubhcations. Among them was ihe Lmder stud Jioinier's LeOger. He was also a jvuti'gc of General Sickles. While in Washington, ho discovered the inlidelity of Sickles" wile, and gave Sickles the information which led to the murder of her seducer.
THE TOWN OF BETHEL. 137
Ijusiness was not remunerative until the Mansion House was built by a club of wealthy New Yorkers, who made an arrange- ment with David B. Kiune by which he ultimately became the owner. In 1866, George B. Wooldridge put up the Grove Hotel. Two years later Captain Waddell constructed a boarding-house called by the romantic name " Sunny Glade." At none of these houses are sold any intoxicating drinks. Napoleon B. Wool- dridge, of the Detective Pohce of New York, has lately finished a fine cottage residence, commanding a pleasing view of the lake. Harold Henwood, a wealthy gentleman from Jersey City, has purchased considerable land near the lake, and is improving the soil, and, it is understood, preparing to buUd extensively.
There are few persons in the Great Metropolis who spend their summer-months ia the country, who do not know and appreciate the attractive loveliness of this place ; so that it has become the resort of substantial men and their families every year. Mount Wilder rises south of the lake, and with gentle declivity recedes 800 feet from the shore, until it reaches a point more than 1,600 feet above the Hudson. From the Mansion House observatory the view is magnificent. It is still better from the other side of the eminence. FoUowing a winding road back of the residence of Napoleon B. Wooldridge, you find a look-out to suit the purpose. Slumbering beneath lies the lake, whose waters, when fanned by the breeze, wash a shore of pebbly white sand, and the blossoms of the rhododendron which fringe the margin, in their season, make the whole winding confines look Hke enchantment. When the surface of the lake is dotted with boats in gay colors, there is presented in the summer- months a sight which one never tires of seein». In the fore- ground, and near the shore, is Chester hill, on the top of which is a pDlared temple devoted to Freedom. Cape Henwood slopes down towards the Narrows, and trees of natural growth cast a grateful shade.
Away to the north. Mount Sherwood looms up into the serene heavens, from which the outline of prospect is scarcely inferior to that which gi-eets the eye of the dehghted traveler among the CatskiUs. A spur of the latter makes a show back of the Shan- daken hiUs. Then on the right "the smoky range" of the Shawangunk is lost in the glades and forests of Neversink. As the eye sweeps the distant landscape, it detects an almost un- broken chain of mountains lying round the whole Cyclopean circle. Everywhere sloping farms are framed in groves of nat- ural beauty ; but what most attracts attention is the lake itself. Here are not the bold configuration of Newburgh bay, and the richly laden vessels of commerce ; but there is more of the un- disturbed repose which is calculated to please those who relish retirement from the busy scenes of active life. To crown aU,
138 HISTORY OF 8TJLLIVAN COUNTY.
here is an atmosphere as healthy as any on the globe. Physi- cians frequently send invahds to recover health from its hfe- gi^-iug quahties. Instances of recovery almost incredible might be given : so that to those who wish to combine rare scenery with healthiness of chmate, a sojourn during the summer-months is des