AMERICAS HOUS€ICeePING
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AMERICA'S HOUSEKEEPING BOOK
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America s Housekeeping Book
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NEW YORK HFRAID TRIBUNE HOME INSTITUTE
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C/iar/es Scrtone/s Sons • New York
Copyright, 1941, by CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS
Printed in the United States of America
All rights reserved. No pari of this book may be reproduced in any form icilhout the permission of Charles Scribncr's Sons
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Introduction
BY MRS. WILLIAM BROWN MELONEY
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This book is unique. Research has shown that America's House- keeping BooI{ is the only one of its kind, the first ever pubHshed which is a complete manual for the housewife.
Divided into three parts, carefully indexed and cross-indexed, America's HouseJ^eepirig Boo1{ tells how to organize a home, what the most modern housekeeping methods are, and it gives a careful analysis of the operation and maintenance of the home. A quick glance through the chapter headings will confirm this statement.
New as it is, this book has really been fifteen years in the mak- ing. For more than a decade and a half housekeepers have written or telephoned to the Herald Tribune Home Institute for help with problems for which no authoritative books held the answers. Gradually the Institute has answered many questions which called for long and difficult research. In the process of finding the solu- tions to some questions, the Institute turned up more and more information of vital interest to the homemaker, and the files on this phase of the Institute work steadily grew.
For instance, from the frantic question of a housekeeper who wanted to know how to save a valuable rug on which some one had spilled a bottle of green ink, came the research which un-
INTRODUCTION
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covered the fact that the treatment varied w^idely for different kinds of ink and for different varieties of rugs and carpets. The greater part of a w^hole chapter of this book grew out of that first question about a bottle of green ink.
The entire staff of the Herald Tribune Home Institute and many of its Advisory Council (also compilers of Americas CooJ{ BaoIO have labored on this work for several years, and more than one hundred specialists in various fields have been called on for their expert technical knowledge in order to bring this informa- tion up to date. The questions of hundreds of housekeepers sent to the Institute have guided us in assembling the contents of this book, and many have contributed practical suggestions.
Miss Eloise Davison, director of the Herald Tribune Home Institute, was the outstanding specialist in home economics to develop this book and to organize the endless detail and gather the more than one thousand facts which make this book indispen- sable in every modern home. Miss Davison, who was the director of a department in the Division of Home Economics in Iowa State College and also was on the staff of Ohio State University in the College of Home Economics, has carried on unusual research covering household equipment and home management.
America's Housekeeping Boo]{ is the last word of experts on the easiest and most efficient way to do your housekeeping job, the best way to manage our most vital industry— the American home.
VI
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
The value of this book is derived from the many authorities who assisted in its preparation. Credit is here acknowledged to Demetria Taylor who did much of the final preparation of the manuscript; to Jean Joyce, Margaret Jane Suydam and Dorothy Ducas of the Home Institute Staff, each of whom was directly responsible for certain sec- tions of the book; to Mr. William Zerbe, also of the staff, for photo- graphs; to Mr. Carsten Grande for drawings; and to Elizabeth Stone Macdonald who assisted with some of the original planning.
We are especially grateful for the invaluable cooperation of the mem- bers of our consulting staff who read and criticized the manuscript: Doctor Lillian M. Gilbreih, Doctor Edna Noble White, Doctor Benja- min R. Andrews and Doctor Flora Rose; and also for special help on the manuscript which was given by Olive Settles, Lydia Ray Balderston, Maud Wilson, Dorothy Wells, Jessie Stanton, Joan Rock, Marjoric Workman, Doctor Amey Watson, S. Agnes Donham and J. L. Suydam.
Valuable assistance was also received from the members or from the headquarters staff of the following associations: American Gas Asso- ciation; American Institute of Laundering; American Medical Associa- tion; American Red Cross; American Society of Heating and Ventilat- ing Engineers; American Walnut Association; American Washer and Ironer Association; Association of Cotton Textile Merchants of N. Y.; Better Business Bureau of N. Y.; Better Fabrics Testing Bureau; Cleanliness Institute; Cotton Textile Institute, Inc.; Edison Electric Institute; Furniture Education Institute; Institute of Carpet Manu- facturers; Mahogany Association, Inc.; Marble Industry Employers Association; Movers Warehouse Men's Association of Greater N. Y., Inc.; National Adequate Wiring Bureau; National Association of Bedding Manufacturers; National Association of Disinfectant and Insecticide Manufacturers; National Association of Dyers and Cleaners;
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
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National Electrical Manufacturers Association; National Paint, Varnish and Lacquer Association; National Pest Control Association, Inc.; National Safety Council; New York Board of Fire Underwriters; Plumbing and Heating Industries Bureau; Rubber Manufacturers Association; Tanners' Council; Tile Manufacturers Association; Un- derwriters' Laboratories; Vacuum Cleaner Manufacturers Association; Wallpaper Institute; and Water Services Laboratories, Inc.
We are deeply grateful to the following companies who made ma- terial available to us: Aluminum Company of America; Aluminum Cooking Utensil Company; Aluminum Goods Manufacturing Com- pany; Armstrong Cork Products Company; Bendix Home Appliances, Inc.; Bissell Carpet Sweeper Company; Black, Starr & Gorham, Inc.; Brooklyn Union Gas Company; E. L. Bruce Company; Cannon Mills; Certain-teed Products Corporation; Chase Brass & Copper Company; Compton Advertising, Inc.; Congoleum-Nairn, Inc.; Con- solidated Edison Company; Consolidated Laundries Corporation; Copeland and Thompson, Inc.; Corning Glass Works; Donahue and Coe; Frigidaire Division, General Motors Corporation; Fuller Brush Company; General Electric Company; Gorham Company; Griswold Manufacturing Company; Hardman, Peck & Company; The Hoover Company; Household Finance Corporation; Imperial Paper and Color Corporation; International Looms, Inc.; International Nickel Com- pany; International Silver Company; S. C. Johnson and Son, Inc.; Kenwood Mills; Lenox China Company; Lever Brothers Corporation; Lincoln Warehouse Corporation; R. H. Macy & Co.; Manhattan Storage and Warehouse Company; Manning Bowman Company; Byron G. Moon Co., Inc.; Moore Enameling and Manufacturing Com- pany; Morgan and Brothers; J. L. Murphy, Inc.; Nashua Manufactur- ing Company; The Palmer Brothers Company; Pendleton Dudley & Associates; Proctor and Gamble Company; Reed and Barton; Revere Copper and Brass, Inc.; William A. Rogers Ltd.; Servel, Inc.; Simmons Bed Company; Singer Sewing Machine Company; Society for Savings; Syracuse China Company; Richard E. Thibaut, Inc.; Tile
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
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Tex Company; United Wall Paj^cr Factories, Inc.; Waring Corpora- tion; Wellington Sears Company; Westinghouse Electric & Manu- facturing Company.
We also appreciate the excellent help from the U. S. Department of Agriculture Bureau of Entomology; the Entomolog)' Department of Purdue University; N. Y. State College of Home Economics, Cornell University; and the Bedding Division of the New York State Depart- ment of Labor.
Credit is due the following for photographs which they generously loaned us for use in this book: Good Housekeeping Magazine; Mc- Call's Magazine; B. Altman & Company; Anthracite Industries, Inc.; Consolidated Edison Company; Crane Company; Darnell Corpora- tion; F. M. Demarest; Easy Washing Machine Company; The Electric Fuse Manufacturers Guild; Emerson Electric and Manufacturing Company; Frigidaire Division, General Motors Corporation; General Electric Company; Hoover Company; Imperial Pa{">er and Color Corporation; Kitchen Maid Sales Company; Kopper's Company; Lewis & Conger; Manhattan Storage and Warehouse Company; Na- tional Association of Disiafectant and Insecticide Manufacturers; Ozite Carpet Cushion Company; Pittsburgh Equitable Meter Com- pany; Singer Sewing Machine Company; and Westinghouse Electric and Manufacturing Company.
Eloise Davison
Director of the Herald Tribune Home Institute
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Contents
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Part I ORGANIZATION OF THE HOME
I. WHEN YOU HUNT A HOME
What to look for when you rent an apartment, buy a house, buy a house to remodel.
II. BUDGETING YOUR TIME
Benefits of a schedule— Necessary daily activities- Necessary weekly activities— Skeleton housework schedule— Checking up on the schedule.
III. CONVENIENT KITCHENS 15
The three work centers— Floor plans of four types of kitchens— Breakfast nooks or snack bars— The butler's pantry— Storage problems— Working areas —Lighting and wiring— Ventilation— Finishes and surfaces— Garbage disposal— Paper in the kitchen— The kitchen and the family— The business center- Check chart for a convenient kitchen.
IV. PLANNED SPACE FOR LAUNDERING 38
The laundry room— The kitchen-laundry— The laundry-sewing room— The kitchen-utility room- Height of working surfaces— Lighting and ventila- tion-Finishes and surfaces.
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CONTENTS
V. A PLACE TO SEW 44
Large and small equipment— Storing the equip- ment—The sewing cabinet— A sewing unit in the living room.
VL CHILDREN'S ROOMS 49
The baby's room— A room for small children— Fur- niture that grows— Well-planned closets— Storage space for toys— Bookshelves— A room for the ado- lescent child— Lighting.
VIL SPECIAL STORAGE PROBLEMS 62
Linen closets— Clothes closets— Bureau drawers- Sports equipment— Garage space— Rustic garden furniture— Miscellaneous problems.
VIII. MONEY MANAGEMENT 71
Saving by the reward system— The tentative budget —A suggested budget form— A "pattern" for mak- ing a budget— Installment buying— Average expen- ditures of American families— Borrowing money.
IX. HOME SAFETY 87
Fires : their causes, how to avoid them, and what to do if one occurs— Falls— Burns and scalds— Poisons and their antidotes— Asphyxiation— Smoke explo- sions—Electric shock— Cuts and wounds— Firearms —Protecting children— Handling tools— First aid— The home medicine cabinet— Miscellaneous neces- sities—Home nursing.
X. HOUSEHOLD EMPLOYEES 109
Present problems and solutions— Choosing an em- ployee—A sample working agreement between em- ployer and employee— Schedules— The training {:>e- riod— Training an efficient cook— Teaching her to serve, to clean, to launder, to care for children- Miscellaneous problems— Part-time help— Trained help.
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CONTENTS
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Part II HOUSEKEEPING METHODS
Section One: CARE OF THE HOUSE
XI. TOOLS FOR HOUSECLEANING TASKS 131
Use and care of tools— The vacuum cleaner— The carpet sweeper— Hand applicators for floor wax— Brooms— Mops— Brushes— Dusting and polishing cloths— Cellulose sp<^jnges— Rubber gloves— Storage of cleaning equipment— The cleaning basket.
XII. FLOORS 143
Floor wa.xes and how to use them— Finishes for wood floors: shellac, varnishes, gloss lacquers, pene- trating finishes or oils, floor oil, paint— Unfinished wood floors— Linoleum and composition floors- Clay tile, slate, marble, terrazzo and cement floors.
XIII. WALLS, CEILINGS AND WOODWORK 157
Dusting walls— Painted walls: how to wash— Wall- paper: non-washable and washable— Repairing dam- age to wallpai-K^r- Other types of wall coverings and materials— Ceilings- Woodwork: painted, waxed, varnished— Sjx^cial problems.
XIV. WINDOWS AND WINDOW FITTINGS 169
Windows: how tcj clean— Shades— Venetian blinds —Wood-slat or bamboo porch shades— Valences or cornice boards— Screens— Awnings— Glass curtains and draperies.
XV. RUGS AND CARPETS 173
Precautions concerning care and cleaning— Pile rugs -Oriental rugs— Various other kinds of rugs— Stair carpeting- Scatter rugs— Fringe- Rug cushions- Removing stains from rugs and carpets.
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CONTENTS
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XVI. CARE OF FURNITURE 184
Finished wood furniture: dusting, polishing, wash- ing, rubbing, special care, removing blemishes and spots— Upholstered furniture: shampooing, remov- ing spots and stains— Leather upholstery— Other types of furniture.
XVII. SPECIAL CLEANING PROBLEMS 196
Mirrors— Pictures— Lighting fixtures— Lamp bases —Lamp shades— Sun lamps— Telephones— Pianos— Books— Book bindings— Fireplaces— Radiators— Hot air registers.
XVIII. CARE OF METALS 208
Aluminum— Brass— Bronze— Chromium— Copper- Iron— Monel— Nickel— Pewter— Silver— Steel— Tin- Zinc.
XIX. DISHWASHING 217
By hand and by electric dishwasher— Care of glass- ware—Care of dishes— Care of cooking utensils- Care of cutlery — Care of woodenware— Care of dishcloths and dish towels.
Section Two: HOUSECLEANING 226
Daily cleaning— Weekly cleaning— Seasonal house- cleaning— Living room— Dining room— Bedroom : bed frames, springs, mattresses and pillows, bed- ding, how to make a bed, the baby's room— Bath- room: bathtub and washbowl, toilet bowl, metal fixtures, care of drain traps, shower stalls, shower curtains, hampers— Halls and stairs — Kitchen: re- frigerators, ranges, sinks, garbage cans.
Section Three: LAUNDERING
XX. LAUNDRY EQUIPMENT, WATER SOFTENERS
AND SOAPS 255
Structural equipment, portable major equipment, small equipment— Water softeners— Soaps.
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CONTENTS
XXI. WASHING METHODS 261
Procedure for household cottons and linens— In a washer— By hand— Rinsing— Bluing— Bleaching— Starching— Basic starch- Freshening fabrics— Ex- tracting water— Drying— Sprinkling— Care of wash- ing machine.
XXII. IRONING PROCEDURES 272
By hand— By machine— Flatwork— Curtains— Wear- ing apparel— Trimmings— Velvet and pile fabrics— Pressing— Care of ironing equipment.
XXIII. SPECIAL LAUNDERING PROBLEMS 281
Types of rayons— Silks and rayons— Fabrics with special finishes— Elastic yarn— Specialty fabrics- Colored or printed cottons and linens— Fugitive colors— Velvets, velveteens and corduroy— Woolen garments— Men's washable suits— Foundation gar- ments—Silk or nylon stockings— Washable gloves- Lace— Veils— Baby's wardrobe— Diapers-Crib sheets and pads— Turkish towels— Infected handkerchiefs —Mattress pads— Blankets— Bedspreads— Comfort- ers—Quilts— Slip covers — Curtains — Draperies- Washable rugs— Tinting and dyeing.
XXIV. PROFESSIONAL LAUNDERING AND DRY CLEANING 306
Modern power laundry— Modern dry-cleaning plant.
XXV. SPOTS AND STAINS 312
Procedure— Equipment— Chart of reagents— Formu- las for reagents— Methods of removing spots and stains— Rings: cause, prevention and cure— Alpha- betical table for stain removal.
Section Four: THH DECORATOR'S TOUCH 326
Slip covers— Curtains and drajicries- Dressing table frou frou— Headboards and bolsters— Monogram- med bed linens— Gay tablecloths and napkins- Tufted rugs.
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CONTENTS
Section Five: CONTROL OF HOUSEHOLD PESTS 345
Insecticides: sprays, powders, poison bait, fumi- gants, safety precautions— Pest control firms and their reliability— Alphabetical list of pests for iden- tification and control— Special moth-proofing and fumigating of furniture and closets— Moth-proof storage— Chart of pests grouped according to where they may be found.
Section Six: SMALL ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT 387
Mixers— Roasters and ovens— Coflfee makers— Waf- fle bakers— Table grills— Toasters— Care of cords and plugs— Cost of operating.
Section Seven: MOVING DAY 39^
Planning— How to pack— Storing furniture— Clos- ing the house for the summer— Closing the house for the winter.
Part III
OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE OF THE HOME
Section Eight: THE HOUSE ITSELF
XXVI. HEATING AND AIR CONDITIONING 413
Kinds of central heating systems— Care of the heat- ing system— Controls for heating systems— How to use fuels— Coal and coke— Table of anthracite sizes —Table of coal hardness— Table of coke varieties— Coke— Startmg coal and coke fires— How to tell if the fire is right— Storage of coal— Disposal of ashes —Oil— Gas— Ways to save fuel— Improvements and additions— Table of relative humidity in room- How to tell when something goes wrong— Hot water for the home— Care and cleaning of hot-water heaters— Space heating— Care of chimneys.
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451
CONTENTS
XXVII. PLUMHINC;
Plumbing pipes— Table of required sizes for drain pipes— How to drain a system for winter— Water softening systems— Neutralizcrs— Plumbing fixtures —Ten don'ts for plumbing fixture care— Bathroom planning— Plumbing troubles and their cure.
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503
XXVIII. THE UTILITIES
Electrical theory— Measurement of electric power and its cost— Typical wattage consumed by various electrical appliances— Figuring operating costs of electrical equipment— Adequate wiring standards Safety factor in electrical work— Electrical repairs- Care of electrical equipment— Gas: its availability- Measurement of gas— Service, repairs and safety- Water supply: the water itself and its sources- Pumping equipment— Water treatment— Sewage disposal— Telephones— Location of telephones— Sav- ing time in use of the telephone.
XXIX. LIGHTING
How much light is desirable?— Light conditioning —Some dos and don'ts— Good lighting, room by room— Built-in lighting efifects.
Section Nine: REPAIRS THE AMATEUR CAN MAKE XXX. TOOLS FOR TINKERING
Table of essential tools for every home— Table of supplementary tools— Table of miscellaneous neces- sities.
XXXI. DOORS AND WINDOWS
Common troubles with doors: simple repairs- Windows: simple repairs- Window shades— Com- mon troubles with Venetian blinds.
XXXII. REFINISHING AND REPAIRING FURNITURE 537 Removing the old finish— Preparing the w(X)d for a new finish— Finishing methods— Shellac method- Varnish method— Staining— "Pickling" furniture- Painting furniture— Structural repairs— Reupholster- ing.
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517
528
CONTENTS
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XXXIII. MISCELLANEOUS TINKERING JOBS 55i
Screens-Storm sash-Weatherstripping— How to put up shelves, hooks, bars, and racks.
XXXIV. PAINT 558
What is paint ?-Kinds of paint-Preparation of the surface-Thinning-Changing colors-Styhng with color— Drying times and number of coats— How to paint-Don'ts for amateur painters-Painting ecjuip- ment— Special products connected with painting- Special waterproofing problems-Financing a paint job.
INDEX 577
XVlll
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Illustrations
PAGE
W/ien worl{ is carefitUy planned, there is alirays tvore time for
family fun 1 1
.-/ tail storage cabinet for pots ami pans lo
Shallow shelves provide convenient storage for canned foods 19
A tall cabinet with adjustable racf{s provides ideal storage space
for pots and pans in
Stepped shelves for storing small containers 21
"See-through" shelves maf{e it easy to locate the pacf{age you need 21
Convenient cutlery racf{ 22
A partitioned sliding tray in a deep drawer 22
A deep drawer fitted with a racl{ for shallow pans and covers 23
Compact convenient storage space for pots and pans is part of a
modern range 21
Cupboards with vertical partitions for trays 23
Ventilated vegetable bins near the sinl{ 24
Several satisfactory racl{s which l{eep cutlery in good condition 25
--/ built-tn mixer "garage" protects the mixer from dust 26
A pull-out lap table is a great convenience 28
An electric ventilating fan above a kjtchen window 29
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ILLUSTRATIONS
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PAGE
A child's urge to help mother should be gratified as often as
possible 33
A well organized planning center is important to every home- ma /{er 34
Concealed in cabinets, laundry equipment in the hjtchen is out of
the way when not in use 4^
A rac\ J{eeps spools of thread in order and easily available 44
An attractive cabinet which is sewing cabinet and occasional table 46
A sewing unit which occupies one wall of a living room: an open door reveals dress form, ironing board, and iron, a cover for unfinished garments and a vacuum cleaner; another door re- veals a folding cutting table; a series of drawers for small equipment, patterns, etc. 47
The chairs encourage correct posture, the table is fust right, and the tipless well-built ste pi adder helps a child to climb into his bed 51
A closet with adjustable clothes poles for the growing child 54
An ingenious piece of furniture which provides plenty of play
space as well as storage space 55
A modern cabinet scaled to a young child's height and adapted
to his needs 57
A bookcase for young children 59
A cupboard worl{-space arrangement for teen-age boys 60
A closet designed for a feminine wardrobe 65
Shallow shelves are best for linen storage 65
A closet designed for a masculine wardrobe 65
A convenient closet for storing sports equipment 68
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ILLUSTRATIONS
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PACE
A hiidi^et based on the reward system can be a road map to your
heart's desire 73
A sturdy step-stool with wide base and broad treads 97
Turn handles of pots and pans away from edge of range to pre- vent accidents 98
A basl{et to hold supplies for cleaning room by room 135
A cellulose sponge mop with a long handle and a two-compart- ment pail for floor washing 135
A pail with a tray top which holds cleaning supplies 135
Cleaning equipment stored compactly and coni/eniently in a
corner wall space 138
Wall space, plus one shelf and one drawer in another location,
proi/ides for minimum cleaning equipment 138
An ideal cleaning closet can be constructed according to this plan 139
L <c a special dough-type cleaner on a non-washable wallpaper 159
Use a cellulose sponge or soft cloth to wash a painted wall 159
Use the racuum cleaner attachment to dust high moldings 159
A soft wall brush f{eeps painted walls free from dust 171
The Venetian blind brush saves time by cleaning several slats at
once 171
Washable shades scrubbed with mild soap lather and a cellulose
sponge 171
Good rugs deserve good rug cushions 174
Run the vacuum cleaner diagonally across a small rug and off
the edge 174
Same rug, same bed after six months of use with different casters 175
Mal{e a stiff dry soap lather for shampooing upholstery 191
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ILLUSTRATIONS
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PAGE
Use the flat tool attachment of the vacuum cleaner for deep
crevices in upholstered furniture 191
Use a soft brush to dust carved wood furniture 191
Dust boohj with the soft brush attachment of the vacuum cleaner 199
Silk^ lampshades may be washed in mild soap suds if the fabric is sewed to the frame
Brush the cods of exposed radiators with a downward stroke
Stacl^ washed dishes in the drainer and rinse with hot water
The dishwasher should be loaded carefully
A tray in the dishwasher holds silver in the correct position 221
Baby's "woolies" should be dried on frames 291
Gloves, sockj and sweaters of wool dried on frames to l{eep their
original size and shape 291
A curtain frame with ruler-like markings for stretching curtains to their original measurements
Boiling water, poured from a height, removes fruit stains
The "pad method" for spot removal
The "bowl method" for spot removal
Place an absorbent pad under the spot when sponging with clean- ing fluid
Measuring a chair for a slip cover Attaching the zipper closing on a slip cover Steps in making a slip cover An organdy dressing table skirt Decorator tricks with headboards
xxii
ILLUSTRATIONS
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PAGE
A luxurious twine rug is easy and inexpensive to make 343
Siherfish, blacky widow spider, and bedbug 353
Termites, cockroaches, bufjalo beetle, and clothes moth 359
Steps in fumigating upholstered furniture 372~373
Steps in fumigating a closet 377
Keep a file of manufacturer's guarantees 388
A strip of oilcloth pockets for direction booklets 388
Remove crumbs from waffle grids tvith a stiff wire brush 393
Use a soft brush to remove crumbs from the toaster 395
A strip of outlets in the preparation center 396
Barrels and boxes should be carefully labelled when moving 401
Fine china should be packed and unpacked by the employees of
the moving company 401
Moving companies can supply cartons for standard size mattresses 403
Wardrobes of this type transport your clothing easily 405
The fuel bed of hand-fired chestnut anthracite burning properly 429
The way the fuel bed of hand-fired coke should not look 4^9
The way the fuel bed of hand-fired coke should look 429
Diagram showing how an attic fan draws air through and out
of a house 441
Six typical bathroom floor plans 46:5
A typical electric meter used in home installations 474
A typical gas meter used in home installations 474
The modern fuse panel, flush mounted on the ^//c/rfn wall 479
Steps in replacing a cord in an appliance plug 485
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ILLUSTRATIONS
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PAGE
A "footcandle" is the unit used in measuring light 504
The light meter measures intensity of light in "jootcandles" 504
A ceiling fixture above the ironing board casts unshadowed
diffused light on the wor\ 507
An I. E. S. study lamp sheds diffused light of correct intensity on
"home wor/{" 511
Torchieres provide indirect lighting in a dining alcove 513
Good lighting in a bedroom 513
Good lighting in the l{itchen is essential 515
How to pull out a nail 517
How to use a screwdriver 517
How to use a saw 517
A well equipped wor\ bench for the man of the house 518
Necessary tools can be stored compactly in a small space 519
A heavy wrench, a hammer and how to hold it, a hatchet, and an
adjustable wrench 520
Frequently used tools 521
Section of a door showing the latch and latch plate 530
Ward and bolt 532
A broken table leg can be mended with a dowel 544
A well organized paint storage cabinet 573
XXIV
PART I
ORGANIZATION OF THE HOME
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CHAPTER I
WHEN YOU HUNT A HOME
The house you live in, whether it is small or spacious, affects the kind of living you will do in it. Careful selection of the physical home —an apartment, a new house or a house you buy to remodel— is a primary job of setting up housekeeping. Let analysis of your habits and taste guide you in choosing your home. Don't try to "keep up with the Joneses" by selecting a neighborhood where families on the whole have a larger income than your own. Rather, choose a locality where your .neighbors will have comparable incomes and interests.
What to Look for When You Rent an Apartment
(Take this check list with you when you are house-hunting.)
1. An apartment that suits the taste of your husband and yourself:
Its location in the part of town where you have friends.
Its accessibility to transportation to your husband's place
of business.
Its size— big enough so you don't get in each other's way,
not so big that housekeeping becomes a burden.
Its personality— up-to-date, charming, cosy or spacious- depending on what you feel expresses you.
2. An apartment costing no more than 25 per cent of your total in- come, including all fixed charges which can't be changed during the period of the lease:
Gas
Electricity
Telephone service
Commutation costs
3. A lease which is ncjt Kmj long — one year, preferably- so you won't be tied up before you are sure you wish to stay longer.
4. Absence of "front," unless there are special business or social
WHEN YOU HUNT A HOME
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reasons for it. Ornate house lobbies and brass-buttoned doormen do not make a home.
5. The essentials of a good floor plan, including:
Cross-ventilation in every room.
Sunlight where desirable, as in children's rooms, dining
room and kitchen. If possible, in living room.
Convenient dining space, where table can be set without
disorganizing whole living room.
Privacy of sleeping quarters, so they can be shut ofl from
rest of the rooms when necessary.
Ample closets for husband's, wife's and children's things
to be separately stored.
Storage space for trunks, suitcases, linens, blankets, win- ter clothes.
Provision for delivery service at or near kitchen.
Efficient kitchen with cupboards and work spaces suited
to your own requirements.
Adequate wall spaces for furniture. (Get room dimen- sions and make a diagram to scale. Locate all your pieces of furniture on the diagram before signing the lease.)
Enough well-spaced convenience outlets in each room
(page 480).
Space for easy entertaining.
What to Look for When You Buy a House
1. A neighborhood in which you will want to live for many years: Accessible to stores, church, schools.
Populated by the kind of people you want for your
friends and your children's friends.
Convenient to your husband's place 'of business.
Showing signs of growth as a residential community.
2. A price which will not mean too heavy a burden of payment over too long a period of time. Don't forget to include all the fixed charges :
Interest and amortization of the mortgage
Taxes
Insurance
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
Fuel tur hcjusc heating
Water and its heating
Upkeep ot car it used for daily transportation
Gas
Electricity
Telephone
Commutation
Minimum repairs
5. Good construction:
You will be wise to have expert advice on this, for much
construction detail is hidden behind finished walls and floors. Get an architect, for' a nominal fee, to look over a house you are considering; he will give you a reliable opinion as to its soundness.
4. An architectural style which is not "faddy" or in bad taste, which looks well on its site and mingles well with the houses near it.
5. A house which can expand as your family grows and its inter- ests widen :
Is there an attic which can be made into a room or
rooms .''
Is there space to put on an addition later?
Can the basement be made into a recreation or work
room ? Is there outdoor play space for children?
6. A floor plan providing the essentials of gracious living:
Not too many stairs to be climbed each day.
Front entrance separate from living rooms.
Rear entrance into hall, not kitchen.
No passageway through bedrooms to get to other bed- rooms or bath.
Sheltered access from garage to house.
See essentials of a good floor plan under "What to look-for
when you rent an apartment," page 4.
7. Adequate heating:
Check to determine whether adequate circulation of heat
in winter is prcnided for ct'cry room.
WHEN YOU HUNT A HOME
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Get your local fuel dealer's estimate of cost of heating
the house with fuel already provided; check this figure against the cost of new equipment and/or another fuel, taking into consideration a long-term heating plan, be- fore you make changes.
Check costs involved if you change to automatic fueling
by means of oil burner, coal stoker or gas burner which takes the drudgery out of heating problems.
Note availability and delivery cost of new fuel and find
out what must be done about regular servicing or ash disposal.
Plan for adequate storage facilities for fuel.
8. Garbage disposal:
Method
Cost, if any
9. Good plumbing:
Check whether the water supply is safe and adequate.
Make sure plumbing is installed according to local health
and building regulations.
Find out if plumbing noises have been eliminated.
Downstairs lavatory if possible.
10. Modern electric wiring:
Have your electrician check on the number of circuits
and size of wire in the house; standards of adequate wir- ing have improved with the increase in use of electrical appliances.
Check to determine number of convenience outlets wher- ever lamps, vacuum cleaner, radios, toasters, etc., may be used.
11. Sound walls, floors and ceilings:
Inspect the condition of the surfaces of the rooms to see
if any repairs must be made before redecorating.
What to Look for When You Buy a House to Remodel
I. A house shell— foundations, walls and roof— requiring very little structural change— style of architecture in good taste, not "faddy":
6
WHAT TO LOOK FOR
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Visit the house on a rainy clay, if you can, to sec if roof
leaks or cellar is wet.
Have an expert go over the structure to check on con- dition of weight-bearing partitions, rafters, sills and old chimneys.
Have an expert check for evidence of dry-rot or termite
infestation.
Remember a coat of paint works wonders if the surface
it covers is in good condition.
2. A house large enough to allow for sufficient number of rooms within the original walls. Addition of whole wings is more costly than repartitioning the existing interior.
3. A house which can be "oriented" to take advantage of sunlight and air:
Consider, before you begin, if there will be sunlight and
cross-ventilation where you want it, when you remove or add partitions.
Don't forget ventilation in cellars and attics.
4. Room arrangements which can be changed easily for a better floor
plan :
End of a hall which can be made into a bathroom.
Large kitchen which can be made into kitchen and
breakfast nook.
Two small rooms which can be thrown into one.
Wall space between rooms where closets can be made.
Walls which can take a dining or greenhouse bay to give
additional space.
Large bedro<jms into which extra baths can be built.
Attics which can be insulated and made into rooms.
5. Wall and floor surfaces which can be modernized bv new mate- rials such as:
Wall canvas to cover cracked plaster walls.
Prefinished wallboards in color or wood-graining, some
of which insulate as well as decorate.
Plastic paints which adhere to old surfaces and allow
textured effects.
Stock mouldings and wainscotings, door frames, etc.
WHEN YOU HUNT A HOME
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Easily laid floor linoleum, asphalt or cork tile, rubber tile
or sheeting, prefabricated floor boards and parquet blocks.
Glass brick insets or partitions where light is at a
premium.
6. Condition of plumbing, if any:
Figure in the cost of installing a private water supply
and sewage-disposal system, if the house is in the country.
7. Condition of heating plant, if any. (See Adequate Heating, page 5, this chapter.)
8. Availability of utilities:
It is costly to add electricity if the power lines are not
already on the road. Check up on cost of cooking with bottled gas, electricity
or kerosene, if the house is not on a city gas or electric line.
9. Check points under "What to Look for When You Buy a House" (pages 4-6, this chapter).
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CHAPTER II
BUDGETING YOUR TIME
Housekeeping is a real job— a job that needs to be planned carefully if one would avoid becoming a slave to housework or have free time tor social activities and outside interests.
The easiest way to plan housework is to make a schedule which as- signs each household task to the particular day— or perhaps even the particular hour— when it can be done most quickly and conveniently.
The benefits of such a schedule are many:
1. It relieves the uncertainty and nervous strain of "never knowing when you'll get things done."
2. It allows more things to be done in a given length of time.
3. It allows planning for leisure pleasures with the comfortable, con- fident feeling that housework need not be neglected.
4. It allows planning the work of a part-time or full-time helper, so that endless repetition of orders is avoided and more satisfactory assistance for the money spent is obtained.
In short, when a schedule has been followed until it becomes sec- ond nature, you run your house; it doesn't run you.
How to go about making a schedule? First write down the jobs that need to be done every day. Next write down the tasks that need to be done on a particular day of the week. Then make a simple chart, and write down each job at the day and hour when it is most convenient to work it in.
We can help establish individual schedules by setting up a skeleton plan which can be added to or altered according to specific needs. The lists on page 10 are a start toward making a reasonable plan for scheduling daily and weekly activities.
No two homes are exactly alike, and different conditions afTcct the work schedule. If there is a small baby, the whole household schedule must be built around the schedule which the doctor prescribes for the baby, and more often than not there is very little time left for house- work, particularly if household help is not employed. A recent study showed that the care of a new baby takes 5 hours and 41 minutes
\ContinttC(i on page i^\
BUDGETING YOUR TIME
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NECESSARY DAILY ACTIVITIES
A. Food planning, table setting and food preparation.
Cooking and serving break- fast, lunch and dinner Washing dishes Kitchen clean-up (page 253)
B. Child care.
Bathing and dressing Feeding
Exercise and fresh air Special training Recreation and companion- ship
C. Light cleaning and straighten- ing of rooms.
D. Special.
Correspondence Sewing and mending Personal laundry Personal care (better schedule exercise too, if you need it) Gardening
Keeping accounts (page 71) Care of pets ChaufTeuring for family
E. Rest, recreation and reading.
NECESSARY WEEKLY ACTIVITIES
A. Thorough cleaning of rooms (page 227).
B. Meal planning and marketing (frequency depends on storage
space and food-buying hab- its).
C. Laundering.
Washing
Ironing
(Or sending to professional
laundry and checking when
returned)
D. Special child care.
Medical or dental Shampooing Shopping Special lessons School affairs
E. Special.
Silver cleaning (page 213) Closet cleaning Care of clothing
Sewing and mending
Pressing
Sending to dry cleaner Special baking Shopping Personal care
F. Rest and recreation.
Club work
Sports
Exercise
Theatre, concerts, movies,
etc. Reading
G. Entertaining.
10
When work is carefully planned, there is always more time tor tamily tun.
BUDGETING YOUR TIME
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Skeleton Housework Schedule for Weekdays
Monday
Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
Friday
Saturday*
Early Morning
Preparing and serving breakfast
Forenoon
General pick- up. Light cleaning of rooms (pages 230-253)
Washingt i f done at home; if not, send laundr>' out
Marketing! or ironingt
Specific jobs such as sil- ver polish- ing, shop- ping, sewing or so m e- thing to be carried on throughout the day
Thor clea of r (pag 230-
DUgh
ning 3oms es 253)
Thor clea of r
(pag
230-
Mark
ing§
3Ugh
ning
3oms
es
-253)
et-
Special food prep- aration for week- end
Noon
Preparing foods for lunch and dinner
Lunch, Dishes, Cleaning up kitchen
_
Early Afternoon (until 2)
Finish wash- ingt
Finish iron-
Put away
ironing Marketing! if
not done in
morning
'
\
>
'
Late
Afternoon
Rest, Relaxa- tion, Corre- spondence, Reading, Personal care, etc.
Final dinner preparation
Early
Washing dishes
Evening
• Careful planning may keep your Saturday free for recreation.
t Many homemakers still prefer to wash on Monday; others find Tuesday more convenient: and some prefer to stretch the work over the entire week.
} If washing is done on Tuesday, ironing is put forward to Wednesday.
§ The bulk of marketinK should be done on a day when local stores oflfer special prices. Often Friday and Saturday are bargain days.
12
CHECKING UP ON THE SCHEDULE
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I Continued from puge yj
every clay. But after all, baby's well-being is of far more importance than any other phase of housekeeping, and if some other work has to be neglected or done less thoroughly, this state of atlairs should be accepted philosophically.
Young children, children of school age, an invalid or elderly per- son to be cared for all necessitate special adjustments in work schedules. If one or more household helpers are employed, their work schedules must dovetail with the homemaker's.
After trying conscientiously to follow a schedule for a week or more, it is time to check up. If the day seems crowded, and if it is difficult to do all the work that is scheduled for a given day, there may be a remedy. Here are a few questions that may get to the root of the trouble-
1. Have you tried to do too much on one day? If so, move one or two tasks to less crowded days.
2. Do you know the one best way to accomplish a given task.'' (Part II of this book will help you.)
3. Do you collect all the materials, ingredients or pieces of equip- ment that you need for a specific job before you begin? This always saves time and steps.
4. Are your housekeeping tools and materials efficient, easy to use, and in good condition? Poor tools slow down work. For example:
(a) Is your sink too high or too low for comfort? (page 27).
(^) Is your cleaning equipment right for the jobs to be done? (page 140).
(r) Is your vacuum cleaner or carpet sweeper kept emptied and ready for use? (page 132).
{d) Are your knives sharp? (page 224).
5. Is the place where each job is to be done arranged conveniently?
{a) Is your kitchen arranged for "one-handed" work? (page 20).
(Jb) Is kitchen equipment stored at the place where it is used? (page 16).
(c) Is the lighting adequate for the work? (page 28).
13
BUDGETING YOUR TIME
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{d) Are beds set away from the walls so that you can make them
easily ? {e) Is your cleaning closet orderly and well arranged (page 137)
so that you can get things in and out easily?
6. Do you take too long to do a specific job?
Keep a record of the time it takes to do ordinary tasks like dish- washing and bedmaking. If it seems overlong, see if you cannot find short cuts which not only speed up the work, but do it more efficiently. Study the job, study the working conditions and study the right methods. Skill and speed can be acquired through practice.
7. Are your standards of housekeeping too high? For instance: {a) Are you too tired at night to enjoy your family?
{b) Do you have time to play with the children? (c) Do you consider silver polishing more important than a pic- nic? Couldn't the polishing wait until tomorrow?
14
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CHAPTER III
CONVENIENT KITCHENS
Did you ever keep a record of the number of hours you spend in the kitchen each day? If so, you undoubtedly found that the total was high because so many household activities are carried on in this one room. How important it is, then, to make the kitchen a pleasant and efficient place in which to work.
Perhaps your kitchen is awkwardly arranged and inconvenient in many ways. Perhaps you have felt that this condition must be endured because improvements would cost so much. But we believe that if you keep your own kitchen in mind as you read this chapter, you may find many ways to improve it at little or no expense. Sometimes familiarity causes blind spots which prevent our seeing things that an- other person can instantly point out to us.
In planning a new kitchen, or in attempting to make your present kitchen more convenient, first consider the three main jobs that are carried on in this room:
1. Preparation of food
2. C(X)king
3. Cleaning up
Each of these three jobs needs a work center of its own, a section of the kitchen devoted to one particular job, where all equipment and supplies needed in carrying out that job are kept together. For ex- ample, the sink is the main piece of ecjuipment in the cleaning-up cen- ter, and all supplies and small equipment that are needed in dish- washing, vegetable preparation, etc., should be stored in this center, and they should be stored so conveniently that no waste motions or steps arc necessary in order to get at them.
Then, too, all three centers are so closely interrelated that they should be co-ordinated in (jrder to save steps. The sink, for instance, is used for certain steps in food preparation as well as for clearing up, so that it should be near the food preparation center.
Check the work centers in your own kitchen against the lists that follow. See whether all necessary supplies and equipment are properly located; sec whether you can reach everything without taking an
15
CONVENIENT KITCHENS
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extra step, and find out how many things are far away or out of easy reach.
The food storage and preparation center should include:
1. Storage space for perishable foods (refrigerator)
2. Storage space for staple foods (kitchen cabinets)
3. Storage space for all tools and utensils used in food preparation: Measuring cups and spoons Graters
Mixing bowls Teaspoons for tasting
Electric mixer Mixing spoons
Egg beater Cutlery and rack
Flour' sifter Knife sharpener
Pastry board and rolling pin Shears
Pastry blender Cutters
Strainer Vegetable masher
Food chopper Can, jar and bottle openers
Fruit juicer Rubber plate scraper (for scrap- ing batter from mixing bowl)
4. Storage space for baking and roasting equipment: Casseroles, custard cups, ramekins. Cookie sheets
etc. Pie pans
Muffin pans Roasting pan and trivet
Cake pans Utility tray Cake racks
5. Storage space for baked goods
6. Storage space for recipes Card file Often-used cook books
7. A clip at eye level on the cabinet to hold a recipe card while it is in use, and a rack to hold an open cook book
8. Work space
For mixing For serving cold foods
The cooking and serving center should include the following:
l6
THE THREE WORK CENTERS
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1. The range
2. Flat surface to receive hot dishes and for "dishing up"
3. Storage space for all tools and utensils used first at the range:
CofTee maker (if coffee is made Frying pans
with boiling water) Dutch oven
Cooking thermometers Deep-fat frying kettle and basket
Heat-proof glass measuring cups Saucepans and covers
for measuring hot liquids Double boiler
Measuring spoons Kettles
Teapot Ladles, spatula, turner, fork
4. Storage space for platters, vegetable dishes, etc.
5. Storage space for pot holders
6. Storage space for condiments used for seasoning foods as they cook
7. Storage space for tea and cofTee
8. A "pass-through" or windowlike opening to the dining room saves steps in setting and clearing the table and in serving.
The clearing-up center should include:
1. The sink or dishwasher sink with two drainboards, or one drain- board and counter space
2. Storage space for all supplies needed for dishwashing (list, page 218)
3. Storage space for kitchen linens
4. Garbage container (if sink is not equipped with a mechanical garbage grinder)
5. Waste basket
6. Roll of paper towels
7. Storage space at sink for tools and utensils used to prepare food:
CofTee maker and coffee (if cofTee Colander
is started with cold water) Paring knife
Measuring cup and set of measur- Vegetable brush
ing sjxxjns Tea kettle (optional)
17
CONVENIENT KITCHENS
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8. Storage space for vases, flower holders, etc.
9. Towel rack or electric towel dryer
10. Storage space for china, glass and silver in daily use, unless kept in the dining room
The three centers should not be widely separated from each other, and should be grouped, if possible, in such a way that work progresses in logical sequence through the following steps: delivery, storage, preparation, cooking, and serving. The range and serving center should be adjacent to the dining room door or "pass-through," if any, so that there will be no delay and no extra steps involved in getting hot dishes to the dining room.
The ideal kitchen has a small area of floor space and a large amount of free wall space. Several floor plans can be adapted easily for con- venient routing of kitchen work:
1. The U-shaped kjtchen is usually a fairly small almost square room with available wall space on three sides and the door to the dining room or living room in the other wall.
2. The L-shaped hjtchen provides space along two walls for the three work centers. It is often possible to make use of this plan to convert a large rambling kitchen into a convenient work shop, utilizing the re- maining space for i) a breakfast nook, or 2) a small laundry, or 3) play space for children, or 4) a business center for the homemaker (page 34), or 5) a study center for older children, according to the needs of the particular family.
3. The 2-wall or corridor \itchen can be extremely convenient to work in because it is step-saving in its compactness. However, if there is a door at either end, it resembles a passageway and is apt to be used as one unless you insist on your rights as director of traffic. Ideally there should be only one door in a kitchen of this type.
4. The i-wall or Pullman hjtchen is often found in apartments, small houses, summer camps, etc. In a kitchen of this type, lack of storage space is the major problem.
Breakfast Nooks or Snack Bars
Many families eat at least one meal a day in the kitchen— usually breakfast— and all families count among their members at least one ''ice-box raider" who forages at bedtime. It is always fun to visit the kitchen for a snack after a late party or the movies, and, when the homemaker is alone at noon, it is much easier for her to eat lunch in the kitchen. Definitely, then, there is a trend toward eating in the
18
I'butoyraphs by Lazarnick and H. I. H'tlliams
Left: A tall storage cabinet for pots aiul pans has an interior arrangeniciu which uses hooks, shelves and racks and provides a hic tor trays, shallow pans and cake racks in the base.
Center: Shallow shelves at the food preparation center provide comenicnt storage for canned foods.
Right: Another tall cabinet, located near the range, and htted with adjustable racks and movable ho<jks firovides ideal storage space tor pots and pans. The covers are filed in the lower part of the cabinet.
CONVENIENT KITCHENS
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kitchen, and modern architects are providing breakfast nooks, snack bars, or a planned area in a large kitchen in recognition of this trend.
Too often the alloted space is a bit on the cramped side, particularly if the furniture is built-in. Keep an eye on this, if plans are being drawn up, and be sure there is room for a comfortable distance be- tween the table and the chairs or benches. There should be a clearance of 1 8 to 20 inches between the edge of the table and the back of the chair when a person is seated at the table.
Good lighting is essential. A recessed central fixture or indirect lighting may be used (page 508).
Electrical table equipment is used most often in a breakfast nook, and a cupboard or shelves should be provided for storing it. China used for breakfast service may be kept here also, as well as table mats, runners or small tablecloths and napkins.
The Butler's Pantry
In large homes the butler's pantry relieves the kitchen of some of its chores. It is usually equipped with a second refrigerator, a sink or dish- washing-sink, working surfaces and storage space. Cold foods are served from the pantry, and dishes, glass and silver are washed and stored there. Table linen is often stored in this location too. And if desired, part of the pantry is easily transformed into a bar, where the necessary supplies for mixing drinks can be kept at hand.
Storage Problems
The storage area at each of the three work centers should be planned for greatest convenience. Shelves, drawers and cupboards, for example, are often too deep to be efficient. Minor changes often can bring about major conveniences. Try to store each piece of equipment so that it can be reached and lifted with one hand. For example, it is much more convenient to stack bowls of the saine size together, rather than to nesf bowls of different sizes. Unlike utensils should never be stacked. Like things should be stored with like, and things used most often should be easiest to reach. Table tops should be kept cleared for action, and not used to store canisters, etc.
Shelves should be adjustable. The supports can be clamped into perforated metal strips or grooved wood scrips. Cleats or brackets can also be used to hold the shelves.
Narrow shelves, just deep enough to hold one row of utensils or packaged goods, are an incentive to orderliness, and save time and tempers usually lost in groping.
20
Photographs by Patricia Hall and li'illiam H. Zcrhc
Top: Stepped shelves for storing small containers do away u itli clutter and contusion at the preparation center.
Bottom: "See-through" shelves make it easy to locate the package you need.
CONVENIENT KITCHENS
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Deep cupboards can be equipped with sliding shelves which pull oul and bring the contents into view.
High shelves should be reserved for articles that are seldom used. Re- member that the "reach" of an average woman does not exceed 72 inches.
Stepped-shelves (see illustration, page 21) increase available storage
Photographs by Patricia Hall and William H. Zerbe
Left: Convenient cutlery rack.
Right: A partitioned sliding tray doubles the storage space in a deep drawer.
space, and make it possible to arrange small packages or utensils so that they are easy to see and to get at. They are a great help in doing away with clutter and confusion.
Some shelf space for canned goods should be located at the food preparation center.
Partitions in shallow drawers segregate small tools and make them easily accessible. There is no need for such partitions to be deeper than Yi to 1 inch. Wood or metal strips make the most satisfactory partitions.
Cupboards may have areas divided with upright partitions to provide convenient storage space for trays, racks, cutting boards and other objects which are usually difficult to store (see illustration, page 23). Sliding horizontal partitions, with a cut-out section in the center front which acts as a pull, are also convenient, and both ty^ies greatly increase available storage space.
22
I'hotoyraphs by li'iUiam H. Zcrbc
Top: A deep drawer fitted with a rack provides easy storage for shallow
pans and covers. Bottom left: Compact convenient storage space for pots and pans is part of
a mcxicrn range. Bottom right: Cupboards with vertical partitions provide a convenient filing
system for trays.
CONVENIENT KITCHENS
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Sliding trays for deep drawers provide "double decker" storage that does away with groping (see illustration, page 22).
Deep drawers lined with removable metal or porcelain insets make efficient flour and sugar bins. Covers, fastened to the inside of the
Photograph by William H. Zerbe
Ventilated vegetable bins should be located near the sink for greatest convenience.
cabinet, remain behind when the drawer is pulled out, or lift up when the drawer is opened, and protect the contents from dust when the drawer is closed.
Racl{s solve many storage problems. If a rack is fastened to a cabinet door, it must be narrower than the door, and fastened far enough from the front edge of the door to allow the door to close. There must be enough free space inside the cabinet to provide for the rack when the door is closed. Shelves can be made narrower to provide such space.
24
t'UutoijTafhs by i'atruia UaU and H \iiiam H. /.crbc
Cutlery should not be stored haphazardly. Here are several satisfactory racks which keep blades in good condition and prevent cut fingers.
CONVENIENT KITCHENS
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If built-in storage space is scarce, racks may be hung on free wall space to accommodate covers for pots and pans and other awkward pieces of equipment.
Knives should be kept in a rack which is either fastened to the wall, or fitted in a shallow drawer (see illustration, page 25).
Portable or built-in ventilated vegetable bins should be located at or near the sink (see illustration, page 24).
l'li<iio(iiupli iiy I'aliuia Hull
A built-in mixer "garage" protects the mixer from dust, but keeps it within easy reach.
Space for storing paper bags, wrapping paper, waxed paper, string and scissors is essential.
A built-in "garage" for the electric mixer, located at the food prepara- tion center, is a desirable feature (see illustration above). The floor of the "garage" should be flush with the working surface, to do away with lifting, or the flcK^r can be designed to pull out or swing out, to bring the mixer within easy reach. Shelves for mixer attachments should be located just above the "garage" or beside it.
26
COMFORTABLE WORKING AREAS
Working Areas
A seemingly unim[X)rtant dciail like the wrong height of a working surface can collect a high tt)ll in discomfort and excess expenditure of energy. Did you know that it requires four and one-half times as much energy to work at a table or sink that is too low as it does to work at one of correct height?*
No one height is correct for every one. For example, a woman 62 inches tall could not work comfortably at a table that was high enough for a woman 67 inches tall. Other factors, such as length of arms and length of waist, also affect correct working heights for surfaces. How- ever, you can easily determine the height that will be best for you in the following wayf: stand erect in front of your kitchen cabinet or work table. Hold your arms flexed with the palms of your hands ex- tended over the working surface. If they rest on this surface as you stand erect, the table is of the correct height for you (don't stoop or bend). If the surface is 2 inches below the palms of your hands, it should be raised that much, etc. The height of the floor of your sink should be the same as the height of the table. Comfortable heights vary from ip-Yi to 36 inches. If it is impossible to raise the sink, raise the dishpan in- stead, by using a wooden rack.
The right-hand drainboard of the sink, where soiled dishes are stacked, should be 32 to 36 inches long and 24 inches wide. The left- hand drainboard, which holds the dish drainer, should be at least 20 inches long and 24 inches wide.
The working surface at the food preparation center should be tjS to (^ inches long and 22 to 27 inches deep. A pull-out pastry board, located at this point, should be 24 to 30 inches wide.
Toe space 3 inches high and ^'2 ^^^ ■^ inches deep should be provided at the base of the kitchen cabinets.
There should be a clearance of 15 to i(S inches between the working surface and the cabinet above. Shelves in this upper cabinet need be only 12 to 14 inches deep.
A lap-table, which is really a pull-out board, provides a place where it is {xjssible to sit comfortably while preparing vegetables and other foods (see illustration, page 2H). It should be placed 25 inches above the floor and should be 30 inches wide, so that it can hold two bowls or saucepans safely. The seat of the chair should be 14 to 17 inches from the floor.
The passageways which separate work centers or which provide
'Planning the Efficient Kitchen. Extension Bulletin 217, Extension Service, State Col- lege of Washington.
\The Hume Kitchen. Massachusetts Slate College Extension Service.
27
CONVENIENT KITCHENS
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A pull-out lap table is a great convenience and finds many uses in the kitchen as an extra working surface.
clearance in front of the sink, range and refrigerator should be wide enough for safety and convenience* :
Space between two opposite work centers— 48 inches
Width of passage past sink, range and preparation center— 36 inches
Space in front of sink— 27 inches
Space in front of refrigerator— 32 inches (this allows for a 2-inch
safety margin when the door is open) Space in front of range— 36 inches (this allows for room to pass when
the oven door is open)
Lighting and Wiring
Good lighting is essential in the chief workroom, because there are tasks to be done at hours of the day and during seasons of the year when we have to depend on artificial light.
There must be a ceiling fixture equipped with a 100-150 watt bulb,
'Planning the Kitchen, by Maud Wilson. Oregon Agricultural Experiment Station, Oregon State College, Station Circular 131.
28
LIGHTING — VENTILATION
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to provide general illumination lor the room. This general lighting should provide a 5 to 10 foot-candle rating (page 505). In addition, each work center must l)e well lighted and these auxiliary lights should be controlled by switches near at hand. The foot-candle rating (page 505) at each center should be 10 to 20.
Soffit lighting above or on both sides of the sink is most satisfactory. Recessed tubular lighting or shaded bulbs to throw light on work sur- faces can be installed on the underside of cabinets located above work surfaces.
Lights inside cabinets are a great convenience, and can be installed so that opening or closing the cabinet door controls them.
An electric refrigerator should be controlled by a separate wiring circuit, if possible. All switches and circuits should be planned carefully to insure a high enough voltage for efficient operation of all electrical appliances (page 477). At least one double convenience outlet should be located at the food preparation center, and another should be in- stalled in the breakfast nook (page 20).
Photograph
An electric ventilating fan above a kitchen window draws out cooking odors and brings in fresh air.
Ventilation
It is, of course, extremely important to provide good ventilation for the kitchen. Heat and cooking odors should be drawn out, and fresh outside air brought in.
29
CONVENIENT KITCHENS
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Cross ventilation, provided by windows on two walls, is ideal. The top of the windows should reach to within i foot of the ceiling in order to ventilate the upper third of the room, where steam, odors and smoke linger. If cross ventilation is impossible, because of the location of win- dows, a transom above a door will help to keep the air fresh, if the door is opjxjsite one of the windows. A Dutch door, which allows the upper half to be opened, also helps to provide cross ventilation, if it is opposite a window.
An electric ventilating fan, installed in the upper section of one of the windows, or on the outside wall, will bring in fresh air and draw out heat and cooking odors (see illustration, page 29).
A ventilating fan or hood over the range will draw off steam and cooking odors.
A portable electric fan, placed opposite an open window, is an aid to air circulation in hot weather, and adds greatly to kitchen comfort.
Finishes and Surfaces
Walls, floors and working surfaces in a kitchen should be durable, easy to care for and attractive. You will find a description of various types on pages 31 and 143-167, and from them you can select the finish you prefer.
Walls, Ceiling and Woodwork
Walls should be washable, of course. On pages 157-167 you will find many kinds of wall finishes discussed in detail. You can select any type that falls within your budget from among the ones that can be washed most easily. The ceiling and woodwork should also have a washable finish. Walls, ceiling and woodwork should all be light in color so that the surfaces will reflect light. Ivory, cream, yellow, light green, blue, or gray are among the most popular kitchen colors. Do not select an intense color or one that is too vivid, as you may tire of it quickly. You can step up the color scheme by using dashes of vivid harmonizing or contrasting color in curtains and other accessories.
Floors
Kitchen floors get hard usage and the floor covering should be able to take it without showing wear for a reasonably long time. It should also be easy to clean.
The discussion of various types of floor coverings on pages 143-156 will guide you in making a wise choice. A plain, dark color is a poor
30
FLOORS — WORK SURFACES
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selection for a kitchen floor, because it shows up footprints, dust and watcrniarks. A marbleized or jas[>c pattern in a medium color, or a small pattern in many soft colors, will prove most satisfactory for the kitchen floor. It should, of course, harmonize with walls and wood- work. Other notes of color in the kitchen may be keyed to the floor ccjvering.
Work Surfaces
Work surfaces in the kitchen must be easy to keep clean. Linoleum, com[K)sition materials, pressed wood, stain-resistant jxjrcelain enamel, monel metal, stainless steel, plastic material and hard wcxjd such as maple, are all satisfactory. Joinings should be water-tight.
If wood (not pressed wood) is used, it should be given a preliminary treatment which will preserve its beauty. If it has been varnished or shellacked, the old finish must be scrajxd off. The surface is then treated with hot boiled linseed oil and rubbed down with fine steel wool. The next day repeat the oil and steel-wool treatment. The third day repeat again. The surface is now ready to stand hard wear without marring.
Linoleum and composition work surfaces may be waxed to preserve them, Lic]uid, paste, self-polishing or hard wax such as that used on automobiles, may be applied. Lic]uid and paste wax must be rubbed to a hard finish.
For directicjns as to the care of stainless steel or monel metal, see pages 212 and 215.
Plastic material needs only mild soap and water to keep it clean and in good condition.
The care of porcelain enamel is discussed on page 245.
Garbage Disposal
Your community's regulations concerning garbage disposal should be understood and followed carefully. In some communities, for exam- ple, paper must be kept separate from other garbage. Sometimes the town or city arranges for garbage collection, sometimes other arrange- ments must be made with a private contractor, at your own expense, lioard of Health rules must always be observed.
The garbage container in the kitchen should be kept clean and free from odor (page 252). An outside garbage container should be cleaned thoroughly each time it is emptied. The method for cleaning is prac- tically the same as for the smaller container kept indoors (page 252).
If your sink is equipped with an electrically ojxrrated garbage grinder,
31
CONVENIENT KITCHENS
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you will have only tin cans and papers to dispose of in other ways. Manufacturers' directions for the operation and care of the grinder should be followed exactly.
Paper in the Kitchen
Paper has come to be a helpful ally in kitchen work. Absorbent paper towels, for example, can be used not only for drying the hands, but for wiping greasy pans, draining fried foods and other tasks.
Waxed paper, cellophane and aluminum foil are used to wrap foods to be stored in the refrigerator or carried to a picnic or to school or work. Then there are waxed-paper pan liners, already cut to fit standard-size cake pans.
Parchment paper finds many uses in the cookery field, and now we have parchment dish cloths and scouring cloths that are durable and non-absorbent. They can be washed out and used several times before they wear out.
Shelf paper is now available with a glazed finish that can be wiped of? when soiled. Shelf edgings in gay patterns, made of paper, fluted cellophane or plastic, add a festive note to cupboard shelves.
Paper place mats, napkins and doilies in an amazing variety of excel- lent designs not only cut down on laundry work but give a bright accent to breakfast room or snack bar. Some place mats are moisture- proof and may be wiped off and used several times.
The Kitchen and the Family
Years ago the kitchen was looked on as the logical center for many social activities, and today we are swinging back toward this point of view. Just as we swung from the too large kitchen to one that was too small, and then to a happy medium, so we have swung from a kitchen that was a social center to one in which there was barely room for work, and no room at all for play, and now to a room where coopera- tive work or play is possible.
Small children are always intrigued by the work that is done in the kitchen. Almost invariably they want to "help," and if this urge is understood and valued, the children will find tremendous satisfaction in cooperative work, besides feeling "wanted," which is important to happy family relationships. Then, too, the educational value of guided cooperative work is an important factor in child training.
The pull-out lap board (page 28), if one is provided, makes a splen- did work surface for a child. Or sturdy steps may make it possible for him to reach a higher counter or table.
32
WHEN THE CHILD WANTS TO HELP
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Hhotoyraph by //. Armstrong Rc/h,,-
A child's urge to help mother sliould be gratified as often as possible even though work is slowed up a little.
A low cujiboard should be reserved for toys or special cooking equip- ment that the children use. One end of the kitchen, away from dan- gerous areas near the range, can sometimes be reserved as play space. In this way, work or play goes happily on while muther is busy with her own multiple tasks.
Naturally such an arrangement may cut down on actual efficiency in the kitchen, but when real values are contrasted, it is easy to see how greatly the gain in child training and companionship outweighs any loss in cut-and-dried efficiency.
33
CONVENIENT KITCHENS
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If possible, there should be one corner in the kitchen that is provided with a comfortable chair, where one can snatch a few moments' rest now and again between chores. There is much to be said for the old- fashioned rocker that once was standard kitchen equipment!
rii.iui.narh l-y A. F. Sozio
A well organized planning center is important to every homemaker.
The Business Center
The kitchen is one logical location for the homemaker's "office," which need not occupy much space if it is well planned.
Every homemaker needs a desk of some description, where accounts can be kept, shopping lists made out, recipes copied and quiet planning accomplished. Files of bills and receipts, manufacturers' direction bcjoklets, guarantees, etc., should be located here, as well as reference books on homemaking problems.
A calendar is a necessity in this business center, and a small radio and extension telephone might well be part of the equipment. A bulletin board to keep the family posted as to each person's where- abouts, to hold reminders for the forgetful ones, to hold order lists, and to give news of general interest, may be hung on the wall.
34
A CHKCK CHART
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Check Chart for a Truly Convenient Kitchen
(If your kitchen is [x.'rfcci in its arrangement, every question will be answered by "Yes.")
I. Is Each Work Center Planned as an Ensemble?
I. The food prcpuratton center
Near the table or main work surface is there
a cupboard for staple food supplies?
a refrigerator for storing perishables.'
storage space for mixing and baking equi[)-
mcnt ?
storage space for spcx)ns, knives, etc.?
Is this food preparation center
near the range?
ncjt over 4 feet from clean-up center?
2. The sinli^ and clean-up center Near the sink is there
* a cabinet for soap, cleansers, scouring supplies?
a drawer for dish towels, cloths?
a rack for dish towels, cloths?
a garbage can or electrical garbage grinder?
a storage space for vegetable brushes and par- ing knives, used at sink?
a place for colanders and cofTee makers?
a storage space for vegetables?
Is this clean-up center
near the china cupboard?
not over 4 feet from food preparation center?
3. The range and serving center
Is there a fiat surface near the range on which to set hot dishes for serving?
Is there space near the range for storing pots, pans and equipment used first at range?
II. Are thi. Working Surfaces the Correct Hek.mt.''
1. .\re the main working surfaces— table, cabinet
top, etc.— of correct height for comfort ?
2. Is jJoor of sink the same height as table top?
35
CONVENIENT KITCHENS
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III, Are the Working Surfaces Big Enough?
(The following dimensions have been shown by many tests, to be the minimum amounts required for working conveniently in a kitchen.)
1. Is there a right-hand sin\ drainboard , at least 32
to ^6 inches long and 24 inches, wide ?
2. Is there a left-hand sin\ drainboard, at least 20
inches long and 24 inches wide?
3. Is the working surface or table top where food is mixed and prepared at least 36 inches long and
22 inches wide?
IV. Is There Enough Convenient Storage Space?
1. Does each cupboard clear the working surface beneath it by at least 15 inches?
2. Are the shelves adjustable?
3. Are the shelves only 12 to 14 inches deep?
(If deeper, can you make stepped shelves to help you reach things easily without groping behind other objects?)
4. Is there space to put up additional shelves and racks ?
5. Is the equipment used most often placed where it is easiest to reach?
6. Is the refrigerator big enough for your family's needs ?
7. Is there "toe room" at least 3 inches high and 3V2 to 4 inches deep at the base of the sink or any cabinet in front of which you stand to work?
V. Is There Room to Work In?
1. Is there a clear space of 27 inches in front of the sink?
2. Is there a clear space of 32 inches in front of the refrigerator, to allow easy clearance for door?
3. Is there a clear space of 36 inches in front of the
range ?
36
A CHECK CHART
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VI. Is 1 IIHJ<E (iooi) LlCIIT, W'lKlNC, VENTILATION?
1. Is there one good ceiling fixture equipjKtl with
a i(x>-i5o wMtt biilh?
2. Is there extra hght
at the range?
at the sink?
at the food preparation center ?
3. Is there at least one double convenience outlet
near the food preparation center ?
4. Is there at least one double convenience outlet
in the breakfast nook?
5. Is there cross ventilation to allow cooking odors
to escape?
6. Is there a ventilating fan or hood over the range
for drawing oil kitchen odors?
7. Is there at least one window?
VII. Are Floor and Wall Finishes of the Correct Materials?
I. Is the floor of linoleum or other composition material
that is easy on the feet and easy to clean?
that is in rrcx)d condition?
2. Is the wall finish tlurable and easy to clean?
3. Is the wall material such that extra shelves, racks, etc., can be fastened to it?
4. Is the woodwork painted with hard finish wash- able paint ?
VIII. Are the Work Surfaces
in good Cf)ndition? easy to clean?
IX. Is the Kitchen Safe from Traffic Congestion?
Are there doors at one end of the kitchen or a back entry to prevent people tracking through the main work part of the kitchen every time they go in or out ?*
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CHAPTER IV
PLANNED SPACE FOR LAUNDERING
Some laundry work is done in every type of home, even though more and more famihes are letting the modern power laundry take over the greater part of the job.
The amount of laundry done at home dictates the amount of space that should be given over to washing and ironing equipment. For example, if there are several children in the family, and if the greater part of the laundry is done at home, it is not an extravagance to devote an entire room to this work. On the other hand, if laundering is done only once a week, and if the total amount is small, it is not always practical to equip a whole room for this purpose alone. It is often possible to plan a combination room, part of which is devoted to laundering. Such plans are discussed farther on in this section.
The Laundry Room
If we devote an entire room to the work of laundering, where should it be located? For many years architects seemed to believe that the basement was the correct location. Recently the trend has been toward a room on the first floor. Which is better.''
If the basement room is dry, clean, well lighted, well ventilated and cheerful, it can be an agreeable place to work. Then too, it is usually less expensive to install laundry equipment in the basement than on the first floor. However, a basement laundry will not be as convenient as one on the first floor, where it is easier to keep an eye on the chil- dren, answer the doorbell or telephone and perhaps catch up with kitchen work while the washer is operating.
Easy access to the drying yard is essential'if clothes are dried out of doors. A sloping ramp, instead of stairs, from the basement laundry to the yard makes it easier to carry clothes in and out. The first floor laundry should be directly accessible to the yard.
A window looking out on the yard where the children play makes it possible to keep an eye on them while you are in the laundry. If the room is large enough, provide enclosed play space at one end for the toddlers, away from the hazards of equipment and hot water.
38
A SPECIAL ROOM FOR LAUNDERINCJ
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The laundry room divides itself into three or four work centers- three if no indoor drier is provided.
I. Sorting and stain removal center
At this center the soiled clothes are received and sorted. If there is a clothes chute, it should empty into a ventilated bin at this location. A counter, with shelves or cupboards above and space for bins on casters or baskets below, makes sorting easier. The counter surface should be smooth and easy to clean. Any of the materials suggested for kitchen work surfaces (page ^i) are satisfactory.
If the wash is not large it may be sorted into piles on the counter, but if it is extensive, you will need bins or baskets to hold the sorted clothes.
A well-stocked mending basket, equipped with needles, thread, thimble, buttons, snaps, hooks and eyes, iron-on mending tape, etc., should be kept in one of the cupboards over the counter (page 261).
Spots and stains must be removed before clothes are washed, so all stain removal materials (page 314) are kept at this center.
Clothes are sprinkled at this center, unless additional counter space is provided at the finishing center, so the sprinkling device is stored here also.
A small table stove with one or two burners or elements should be located here. Starch and a large saucepan to cook it in are stored nearby, together with a tea kettle, large bowl or dishpan, measuring cup and stirring spoon.
2. Washing center
This center is built around the water supply. The laundry trays (we used to call them "set" tubs or stationary tubs) are here and the washer is nearby, where it can be wheeled into position easily. Double trays are an added convenience. Often the trays are set against the wall, but sometimes it is even more convenient to place them in the center of the room.
Soaps, bleaches, bluing, water-softening compounds (page 256), a measuring cup and measuring spoons should be stored near at hand, to save steps.
A floor drain is necessary unless the water from the washer can be pumped into the trays, and it is advisable to install a drain anyway, because some spillage is bound to occur.
A rack or low table on casters to raise the clothes basket to a con- venient height which eliminates stooping and lifting is essential.
A soft brush, and a thermometer to check the temperature of the water are kej)t at this center.
39
PLANNED SPACE FOR LAUNDERING
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3. Drying center
This may be the back yard, if you Hve in a neighborhood where the air is not contaminated by soot or smoke or acid gases. Or it may be a gas or electric drier, a tumbler-drier or an overhead drier in the laundry room.
4. Finishing center
Located at this center are the ironing board, electric hand iron, the ironer, if any, and a clothesrack.
The Room as a Whole
The centers should be arranged in logical sequence so that the work progresses through sorting, washing, drying and ironing with as few steps as possible.
The Kitchen-Laundry
If a laundry room is not necessary, because of the amount of washing and ironing done at home, or if it is impossible to devote a whole room to the work of laundering, a compromise can be reached by using the kitchen for this work.
If the kitchen is large, it is often possible to arrange it so that one end of the room is left free for laundry equipment. This arrangement is important because soiled clothing should be kept away from food and equipment used for cooking. The kitchens in many small houses and nearly all apartments are equipped with a sink and laundry tray combination. The tray should be reserved for laundry use only, for sanitary reasons, and the washing machine and washing supplies should be stored nearby, if possible. A kitchen table on casters, which can be wheeled over to the sink and used to hold the clothesbasket, is convenient.
Often it is easier to iron in the dinette or dining alcove than in the kitchen proper. If so, a built-in ironing board can be installed, if desired.
If space is limited, it is possible to select laundry equipment that can be stored in a minimum amount of space. For example, the automatic washer is admirably suited to kitchen installation, because it is so de- signed that it requires only a small amount of space. Some ironers are equipped with covers and can be used as a kitchen table when closed.
A new space-saving washer has recently come on the market, that will also be an answer for many a house or apartment that has no separate laundry facilities. This square washer is designed particularly
40
THE KITCHEN-LAUNDRY
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Conccalctl in cabinets, laundry equipment in the kitchen is out ot the way when not in use.
for use in the kitchen and can be stored in a very small space. It is smaller than the ordinary machine, taking but four pounds of clothes at one time. This is, of course, a fair-sized load, particularly for the family that sends the sheets, bath towels and heavier things to the laundry. Adjustable legs make it easy to lower the washer so that its full height is only twenty-four inches. Lowered this way it will fit under the sink or even under the washstand in the bathroom. It can be raised, by means of an easy turning crank, to the convenient work-
41
PLANNED SPACE FOR LAUNDERING
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ing height. Adequate provision has been made for filUng and empty- ing the tub without Hfting water. This washer can be equipped with an attachable ironer. Only one motor is used to activate washer, wringer and ironer. The wringer and ironer are interchangeable. In the base of the machine good space is provided for storing the wringer. The rotary ironer that can be bought separately is designed with a keen understanding of storage convenience. A heavy sc]uare-cornered frame acts as a base on which the ironer rests in an upright position, taking up no more storage room in a closet than a vacuum cleaner. Other ironers also may be stored in a closet where they are easily ac- cessible, but out of the way when not in use.
The completely automatic washer is equally at home in a laundry or in a kitchen. It is compact, good-looking and carries the clothes through washing, rinsing and damp-drying with no fuss or bother.
The Laundry-Sewing Room
We like to call this combination room a "clothery," because all the operations for the care and maintenance of clothing are carried on within the four walls of one pleasant, comfortable and attractive room. It is one solution to the problem of making a given room as useful as possible, and it may even house the water heater and heating plant as well as the sewing machine. Such a room has three work centers: the sorting and washing center; the drying and ironing center; the sewing and repair center. The placement of these centers, in relation to each other, is largely a matter of floor plan, for while each bears a definite relationship to the other, the work carried on at each center is independent to a certain degree.
The sewing cabinet illustrated on page 47 could be used as the sewing center in the clothery, if desired.
The Kitchen-Utility Room
If the floor plan of the house will permit, a utility room housing laundry equipment and adjoining the kitchen is convenient. Folding doors make it possible to throw the two rooms into one.
Heights of Working Surfaces
The top edge of the laundry trays (tubs) should be 7 to 8 inches above the correct work table height (page 27).
The surface of the ironing board should be i inch lower than cor- rect work table height (31 to 34 inches from the floor).
42
LIGHTING — WASHABLE SURFACES
Lighting and Ventilation
GcKjcl natural light is perhaps more important in the laundry than artificial light, because laundry work is almost always done during the daytime hours. If the laundry is dark, however, the same sort of light- ing as that suggested fcjr the kitchen should be provided (page 28), with general illumination and auxiliary light at each work center. A "daylight" bulb to light the sorting counter shows up spots and stains and does not distort colors.
Several double convenience outlets shouKl be installed in the laundry, at elbow height, to plug in the washer, ironer, electric hand iron, etc. See page 102 for precautions concerning the use of electrical equip- ment in the laundry.
Ventilation is of utmost importance in the laundry, and can be ob- tained in the same ways as those suggested for the kitchen (page 29).
Finishes and Surfaces
The walls of the laundry should be light in color, easy to keep clean, and moisture-resistant. A study of the various types of washable walls discussed on pages 157-167, and special damp-proof paints (page 574) will undoubtedly help you to select a suitable and attractive finish. The woodwork should have a washable finish also.
It is essential that the laundry floor be easy to clean, and resistant to moisture. It should not be slippery when it is wet. Among the floor coverings discussed on pages 14:;-! 55 you will find several that are suitable for installation in the laundry. From among these you can s>.l(.ct the type best suited to your own needs and budget.
4^
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CHAPTER V
A PLACE TO SEW
Whether sewing is a hobby, a necessity, or a minor irritation, it usually has to be done. Even the most confirmed needle-haters will admit that it is easier and pleasanter to sew in a place set aside for the purpose, where everything necessary to the job is assembled.
The woman who loves to sew and who makes clothes for herself and her children will need plenty of space to work in— perhaps a whole room. The woman who reaches for a needle only when im- pelled by necessity may need only an orderly kit or, at the most, a sewing table.
Much sewing is really creative and in order to enjoy this form of creative expression, details should be organized. But all too often we rush over the entire house in an attempt to locate that spool of orange silk and a paper of needles when an emergency arises.
If tools and equipment are all located in one convenient place, the saving in time and steps is really amazing. First of all, we must con- sider the equipment itself. The following list includes everything a
I'ltotoipaph by Patricia Hall
A rack which can be hung on the wall or on the door of a cabinet keeps spools of thread in order and easily available.
44
SEWING EQUIPMENT
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home dressmaker will require. The items that are marked with an asterisk (*) comprise the minimum equipment that is necessary no matter how little sewing is done:
Large Equipment
Cutting board or table
Sewing machine and attachments
Dress form
Full-length mirror
Ironing board
Electric hand iron
Small Equipment
*Needles, *thread, *dressmakcr pins, *thimble, *snaps, *hooks and
eyes, slide fasteners, buttons, etc. *Scissors
Pinking shears
Darning "egg"
Tracing wheel
Patterns and fashion magazines
Materials, trimmings, bindings
Scrap bag
Tailor's chalk *Tape measure, ruler and yardstick or hem gauge
The next problem is to select a location, where this equipment can be kept. Sewing is seldom an everyday job, and for this reason it is preferable to store the equipment compactly, yet in such a way that it is readily accessible. Even if an entire room is devoted to sewing, it is desirable to have a closet or cabinet where orderly storage is possible. On page 47 you will find such storage space illustrated. You will see that a cabinet of this type would not detract at all from the appearance of a living room, dining room, guest room, play room or laundry (see clothery, page 42), and modern sewing machines have become attrac- tive pieces of furniture. Or you may prefer a fxjrtable sewing machine which can be stored when it is not in use.
In general the following storage facilities should be provided in a sewing cabinet:
1. Open shelves for magazines, boxes, etc.
2. A shallow drawer for spools of threatl.
3. A deeper drawer in which patterns may be filed. A tab attached
45
A PLACE TO SEW
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to each pattern makes identification easy. The tab may be marked "Apron," "Play suit," or "Shp," etc., and the patterns filed alpha- betically.
4. Drawer space for scraps of material, garments ready to be mended or altered, new materials, etc.
5. A rod or hook for dress hangers on which to hang garments that are in process of construction.
Pholoyraphs by William H. Zerbc
This attractive cabinet plays a dual role as a sewing cabinet and as an occasional table.
6. Space for the sewing machine, if necessary.
7. Extra shelves for additional sewing equipment or for other storage.
8. Space for a dress form if one is used.
9. Space for ironing board.
A card table makes a convenient work surface when one is sitting down to baste, pin or cut small pieces. The surface should be 21" to 25" above the floor. If much dressmaking is done, a long work surface for pinning and cutting patterns must be provided. A long table that can be folded and stored away between uses is most convenient. A board 40" wide and 72" long, covered with oilcloth may either be attached
46
Ihis sewing unit occupies one wall ot a living room. The tabic at the lower left is the electric sewing machine.
I ppcT left: The open door reveals dress lorin. ironing lx)aril and iron, a cover
tor uiitinishcd garments and a vacuum cleaner to pick up threads. Upper right: Anotiier door reveals a folding cutting table. Lower right: A scries ot drawers for small equipment, patterns, etc.
A PLACE TO SEW
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to the wall by hinges, or be designed with folding legs. An excellent folding-cutting board made of composition material which is not marred by scissors or pins is now on the market. This board can be placed on any flat surface steady enough to support it. An inexpensive unpainted gate-leg table makes a good cutting table. It may be finished in any of the ways suggested on pages 538-542. The cutting surface should be 35 '/2 inches above the floor for a woman of average height,
A comfortable straight chair or bench of correct height will do away with stooping and make sewing more pleasurable.
It is a good plan to keep a second ironing board in the sewing room, and as excellent boards cost very little, this is entirely possible. A sleeve board and a sleeve cushion are helpful also. Pressing cloths, a sponge and basin may be kept in the sewing room if desired. The electric hand iron can be carried to the sewing room when it is needed, unless it is possible to keep a second one there.
Trays or shallow drawers in which supplies for hand sewing are stored should be portable for greatest convenience.
Good light is essential for sewing. The sewing machine should be placed so that light from the window will come from behind and over the left shoulder of the worker. Many sewing machines are equipped with an attached electric light. If yours is not, a light at- tachment may be purchased. If sewing is done in the evening, ade- quate illumination must be provided (page 505).
A small sewing kit makes it possible to carry sewing to the porch or garden, or to any room in the house where you may wish to work. And the smart business woman makes room in a desk drawer for a compact sewing kit which will take care of mending emergencies.
48
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CHAPTER VI
CHILDREN'S ROOMS
A child is an individual, a little person with distinct characteristics and with needs and desires of his own. That statement may seem so obvious that you wonder why it was written. Nevertheless the child's status as an individual is often overlooked in many ways.
Would you be comfortable in a world of giants, if you had to use their huge furniture and try to adapt yourself to the resulting discom- fort and difficulty? Would you make any serious attempt to keep your clothing and personal belongings in order if you couldn't reach hooks or shelves without climbing on something.'' Would you like it if your rights as an individual were overruled by grown-ups who rifled your desk or who failed to provide any place you could really call your own.' But many children are subjected to similar handicaps by well- meaning adults who simply haven't thought of the child and his world in this light.
Ideally children should have a room of their own, from babyhood on, keyed to their needs and planned for their enjoyment.
The Baby's Room
It is a real temptation to transform the room that is waiting for baby's arrival into a bower of lace and ribbon. However, if the mother- to-be is going to do all or most of her own w-ork soon after she gets home from the hospital, we beg her to restrain this impulse.
Rigorous standards of cleanliness, essential to baby's well-being, are much easier to maintain in an uncluttered room. But this does not mean that the baby's room must be bare and desolate. Crisp washable cur- tains are colorful and charming, and windows where they are hung really don't need draperies. Furniture finished with washable paint is fresh and attractive as well as easy to keep clean, while furniture in a natural wood finish is also appropriate and beautiful. If the crib is painted, the paint should have a vegetable base, because babies who are teething often bite the edge of the crib. A non-slippery floor with one or two small washable rugs is more in keeping with the general daintiness of the room than one completely carpeted, and far simpler to maintain.
49
CHILDREN'S ROOMS
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With a comfortable chair for mother, and a few suitable pictures for decoration the room is complete and attractive.
A Room for Small Children
Two small children of opposite sex may share the same room until they are five or six years old, but of course each child should have his own bed. As they grow older their interests and needs are too widely divergent for peace and amity if they continue to share the same room. Two children of the same sex may occupy the same room as long as is necessary. If the room is used for both sleep and play, it should be reasonably large.
Children's play should not be continually hampered by admonitions to be careful of the furnishings. Rather, the furnishings should be of a type that can stand hard usage without getting shabby and worn too quickly.
Walls should have an attractive washable finish (pages 157-166). Many manufacturers have designed washable wall coverings especially for children's rooms. Woodwork should be washable too (page 167).
Floors should be easy to clean. A deep pile rug has no place in a child's room. Linoleum, composition tile, or felt base floor covering are all suitable and easy to keep in good condition. Washable scatter rugs may be used if desired.
Furniture should be adapted to the growing child, and will be dis- cussed at greater length further on in this chapter. Other furnishings, such as curtains, slip covers and any necessary accessories should be easy to launder or clean, yet gay and interesting. If a child is three and a half years old or older, he might like to choose the material for cur- tains, etc., from among several samples.
The whole room should be cheerful, light and airy— a place for the child to regard as his own domain, where he can be busy, comfortable and happy in surroundings that are suited to his own requirements.
Furniture That Grows
In this day of scientific wonders who is surprised by furniture that grows? Today furniture that fits the child and is adapted to his size and expanding needs is as important to his development as are the right kinds of shoes, clothes and foods. It is a part of the plan to help children to grow up into self-dependent, responsible, resourceful per- sons.
If you haven't seen the new ty[">e of furniture for children that is designed to grow as they grow, you'll be interested to know about it.
50
FURNITURE THAT (.ROWS
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The chairs encourage correct jwsture, tlie table is just right in height tor comfort, and the tipless, well-built steplatlder helps a child to climb into his iK-d all by himself.
First, there are chairs that develop as the child develops. They have slanting seats and well proportioned backs to encourage correct pos- ture. For very young children, the arms act as a protecting framework; but, as the chair is adjusted inch by inch in height to adapt its "baby features" to young independents six and seven years old, these arms "grow" into the framework. This is done by a very simple screw adjustment, made with a small screw driver or even a dime— so easy a process that it encourages parents to keep the chair adjusted to the right height for comfort. The simplicity and variety of the designs of these chairs make them fit well into any room in the house, as well as the nursery.
Another chair worth considcratif)n is one equip|XHl with a small training table, useful when children arc learning to feed themselves, and which can be used from the tune the baby sits up until he is hvc or six years old. Many mothers prefer this to a high chair for the baby's first chair. It deserves special considcraion if a child is inclined to be timid
51
CHILDREN'S ROOMS
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in a high chair, for it is low, sturdy and comfortable. When sitting in it the child has his feet flat on the floor, so there is no reason for fear. The chair is very steady and with its well-spread legs it cannot be overturned easily. It locks firmly to the table when the two are used together.
Chests and dressing tables low at first, so that even a very small child may get out and put back his own clothing, may be heightened by either a low or high foundation section. Thus they can "grow" into a chest-on-chest of just the right height, or a dressing table with a sub- stantial base compartment to give added inches. A mirror placed over a small desk makes it a dressing table with good drawer space down the side, very suitable for a little child's room. Later on it may be converted into a fairly sizeable desk which can serve faithfully for many years.
The attention paid to the beds in this furniture development is espe- cially noteworthy. The crib with high sides is a well-constructed bed and safe for two good reasons: First, because the sides are high enough to keep even the investigative child carefully corralled, and all the ad- justments for lowering or raising the sides are well out of reach of pry- ing fingers. Second, because the mattress and springs are so constructed that the bed does not sag and allow the child to get into uncomfortable, unhealthy positions.
The junior beds have low side rails for safety yet look very grown up. The rails can be removed easily when the child gets beyond the age when they are needed. Junior beds may be converted to full-size beds later on by replacing short side rails with full-length ones which are available from the manufacturer. This adaptability offers a distinct advantage over discarding the whole bed, even though standard springs and mattresses may need to be provided for the lengthened beds.
A junior bed can be converted into a double decker by placing one twin bed on top of another. This combination intrigues some children very much. The fact that the design of the bed makes it possible for two to be used as twin beds or a double decker gives it added useful- ness, A sturdy ladder is available with the double decker.
In the photograph on page 51 you will notice a stepladder. It is a tip- less, well-built step-stool on which a child can climb, all by himself, into the junior bed with side boards. It is extremely useful in the bathroom, tor with it he may climb up to the washstand or even on the toilet all by himself and with no danger of tipping.
A firm pressed wood base which is raised slightly from the floor is a desirable feature in a play pen, particularly where houses are draughty. Modern pens not only fold for easy storage, but have rollers which make them easy to transport from one room to another. So care-
52
THE WELL-PLANNED CLOSET
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fully calculated arc the sjXKings of the spindles that there is no danger whatever of the baby's head getting caught between them.
Careful thought has been given the construction of all these pieces of furniture in so far as sturdiness, smoothness, easy care and com- fortable use are concerned. Handles are designed so that children may both reach and hold them comfortably. All of the finishes are durable and— what is even more important— safe. There are no sharp corners. Drawers are checked so that they cannot be pulled out to drop on a child as he puts his possessions away or gets them out.
The fact that the cribs are rattle-proof will warrant the appreciation of many a parent. Edges are smooth and all metal fittings rust-proof.
Eurniture that has been developed with scientific care, that grows and adjusts to your child's increasing powers and needs, is becoming indispensable in homes really concerned about well-developed, re- sponsible young people.
If it is not possible to invest in several pieces of this furniture, neces- sary adjustments in height can be made by some one in the family who is handy with tools. Tables and chairs can be raised with gliders, casters or lifts, and chests or bookshelves made higher by setting them on a simply constructed solid foundation.
Children Like Company
Children often like to join the rest of the family instead of staying in their own room by themselves. Because cooperative work and play are all-important, definite provision should be made for child centers in family living rooms. A table, chairs, and shelves for toys and games can be assembled inexpensively, particularly if unfinished furniture is chosen, and finished at home (pages 538-542).
Storage
A well-planned closet can take care of toys as well as clothes, and will help instill habits of neatness, selection and self-reliance.
The fixtures should be scaled to the child's height, but made flex- ible, if possible, so that they can be used throughout his growing years. In the closet shown in the drawing on page 54, clothes poles are made adjustable by means of two thin strips of wood with circular notches about 9" apart, and screwed to the side walls. As birthdays come and go rods may be adjusted easily to accommodate additional inches. The lowest notches arc about 30" from the floor so that even a small child may choose what to wear. You can govern this somewhat by hanging his dress-up clothes on the higher rod.
53
CHILDREN'S ROOMS
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Doubling up on hanging space gives you room for a storage unit, like the one illustrated below. Reserve the upper drawer for sweaters and other stretchy garments that get out of shape on hangers. Your child won't mind putting his knitted things away in their own drawer;
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In this closet, described on pages 53-55, clothes poles are adjustable so that they can accommodate additional inches as the child grows.
and he'll even like hanging up his hats because they belong on the flexible hat stands above, which are so fascinating to operate.
The bottom drawer, which is really a storage box, is 15" deep, mounted on casters, and easily pulled out into the room by its rope
54
STORAGE SPACE FOR TOYS
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This ingenious piece of furniture provides plenty of play space as well as storage space, while occupying a relatively small floor area.
hancilc. Place favorite books within easy reach on top of the drawers, and he'll feel that the closet is really his kingdom.
1 he little cuphoard overhead is intended for out-of-season coats. Here they hang, always in press, and ready for change in the weather.
Shoes are perhaps most easily managed by small folk in an ample shoe bag hung low on the door. And a few low hooks are useful, also.
Toys may be stored all by themselves on shelves that are easy for small children to reach. "Pick-up-and-put-away" is not easily taught to children if places to put things are small or scarce.
Dolls and small toys heajxrd on a toy closet floor are often a problem. If no regular provisions can be made, there are several excellent "make- shifts" which cost little except in ingenuity. One solution is a shoe -bag
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arrangement tacked low on the closet door within easy reach of the child. Attach three rows of deep pockets to a piece of cretonne 20 inches by 48 inches. Make three pockets 8 inches by 12 inches for the top and bottom row, to hold dolls and stuffed animals. Make two large pockets 12 inches square for the middle row. These pockets provide plenty of room for extra doll dresses or larger toys.
Sturdy wooden ginger-ale boxes can be converted into excellent storage space for toys. The boxes, which you can get at the grocer's, are firmly made, metal-stripped and equipped with convenient hand- holds at either end. Sandpaper and steel wool give them a safe smooth surface; bright enamel paint makes them fit attractively into the nursery color scheme.
Piled two or three high in a row along the nursery wall, these boxes become a roomy useful cupboard where even the smallest children can keep their toys. Horizontal plywood shelves resting on four screws can be added to some of the boxes, to hold flat nursery books and small toys.
When the nursery age is past, these boxes can be mounted indi- vidually on non-scratching casters to provide a movable bin for large blocks, construction toys, trains and tracks. The smooth hand-holds provide an easy grip and the bins roll freely, making it easy for older children to get their toys or to put them away. Casters placed only at one end, with wooden blocks at the other, assure steadiness while the box is in use.
More of these boxes, left over from nursery days, find ready use as back-yard building material and easily portable containers for sand and other outdoor toys.
Big outdoor playthings are frequently the most difficult to stow away neatly. One solution is to make a door in the coping of lattice work under the back stoop. Wagons or tricycles can then be rolled inside.
A clutter of roller skates, bats and balls on the back porch is both hazardous and unsightly. A simple remedy is to place a wide shallow box just inside the back cellar window. The box runs the length of the window and is fastened with brackets to the cellar wall. It can be reached easily from outside, by even the smallest child, merely by push- ing open the window sash. Jump ropes, balls, skates, bats and other small play paraphernalia are put away there just before the children come in from outdoors.
Books present another storage problem in a child's room. Boys and girls who are fortunate enough to have books of their own should also have the right kind of shelves to keep them on, yet a child's room is rarely equipped with broad, deep bookshelves. Here are two kinds which can be made at home for very little money.
56
THK RIGHT KIND OF BOOKSHELVES
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Designed by Joseph Aronson, Inc.
This modern cabinet is scaled to a young child's height and adapted to his needs.
For a child's large picture books, shelves need to be deep. It is best to make the lowest shelf the tallest one, so that later on it can accom- modate reference books. An ideal arrangement is to make the shelves 12 inches from front to back in this bookcase, with a lower shelf high enough for a 15-inch book when it is standing up. At one end, place two upright divisions 6 inches apart to supply leaning posts for some of the thinnest books. The shelf above this one should be 12 inches high to hold the smaller books.
At the end, opposite the leaning posts, divide this upper shelf into two shelves 6 inches deep and 14 inches wide. These hold scrapbooks, a supply of paper, blunt scissfjrs, paste and pencils, all of which should be part of any juvenile library.
Above these shelves a backboard 12 inches high can be hung. If you wish, the three exposed edges of this backboard can be finished with moulding. Six inches from its top at each end place a screw eye. When small round white clastic has been stretched between these
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CHILDREN'S ROOMS
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eyes, there is a place for an open book, leaned against the backboard, kept open by the elastic. The book won't be stepped on, its back won't be broken. One or several books may be placed there at the same time for the pure pleasure of their young owner. Or the pictures every child cuts out and keeps can be pasted against the backboard or simply secured behind the elastic.
Paint the bookcases black or a dark blue or green outside, so that scuff marks won't show, and use a bright color inside. Light green, a sunny yellow or a light blue will make a good background for the books. These shelves can be any length you wish, depending on the room and the number of books (see picture, page 59).
For the mother who must also be carpenter and does not know how to build bookshelves, there is still another solution— also a very inex- pensive one. Stand three orange crates on end, fasten them together, cover with oilcloth. Use dark oilcloth on the outside, and a light cheerful color inside. Glue or tack the oilcloth everywhere except at the front edges. All the front edges can be studded with rows of col- ored thumbtacks or brass-headed nails.
On the top, fasten shelf brackets at each end. These may be enam- elled to match the shelves or left as they are. Stretch a double length of the round elastic across the back, fastening it at ,the center of the bracket. Still another single piece should go across the top. This means that a book can be supported by slipping it between the double lengih, and the book can lean against the upper one. Find bright-colored boxes to hold scissors, paste and pencils, or paint cigar boxes to hold these small articles.
A bulletin board of cork or plaster board, hung low enough to be within easy reach, provides a place where children can display pic- tures they draw or cut out or work they bring home from school, and is a never failing center of interest.
Bookshelves in a child's room do more than house his books and pictures. They keep youngsters from growing up with the idea that any home can be lived in happily without books or a place to put them.
When there are two or more children whose possessions are kept in the same room, squabbles can be prevented by identifying the storage space belonging to each child, with a special mark. One nursery school we know uses decalcomanias for this purpose, with very attractive results— a flower for Mary, an animal for John. Another school paints the inside of each "cubby" a different cok)r, because a child identifies a color as his own even more readily than a picture. This idea is easy to follow at home and makes the children's room colorful and bright. This same system can be used to train a young child in orderly habits
58
A SPACE OF HIS OWN
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A bookcase ior young children, descrilxid on page 57.
by marking storage space with a picture of the article which belongs there. This works out nicely in the case of bureau drawers. For example, a picture of gloves pasted in the space alloted to gloves, a picture of socks in their allotted space, etc., will guide the child in putting away his own clothing and establish good habits of neat- ness. But don't expect too much of them. Little children don't put their own things away readily, so, at the end of a long day, be ready to offer generous help.
A Room for the Adolescent Child
A child of adolescent age needs, more than ever, a room of his own, where collections and hobbies can have free rein. If provision is made tor them, these hobbies need not lead to disorder or confusion.
The cupboard and work space shown in the drawing on page 60 solved the problem of how to make two teen-age boys share one room and like it. A long shelf built in three sections forms the top of three closed-in cupboards, which provide ample storage space for all kinds of paraphernalia, even to baseball bats and tennis rackets. The shelf
59
CHILDREN'S ROOMS
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Drawing by Effa Brown
This cupboard work-space arrangement for teen-age boys is described on pages 59-60.
is double, so that the upper part folds back, and forms three separate tables. Above the middle cabinet is a set of closed-in pigeonholes for writing materials, letters and papers. Open bookshelves are built above the pigeonholes and on either side of the cupboards.
Children of this age resent prying, but appreciate real interest. A certain amount of privacy is their right, and desks and bureau drawers should be their own private property. If, up to this age, they have had education in orderliness, good habits should be firmly established by now, and they can be depended upon to keep storage space in good condition. Diaries, scrapbooks, correspondence, collections, should not be subjected to inspection except by invitation. Doubtless such invita- tions will be freely extended to understanding parents who have built up a feeling of confidence in their children.
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PRIVACY FOR THE ADOLESCENT
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The furnishings and decorations ot dieir own rooms lake on a new interest for children in their early teens. No boy wants a "sissy" room all done up in frilly curtains and furbelows. But girls lake a real delight in such fripjK-rics. And children of either sex will take better care of a room ihat they have had a share in planning.
Lighting
Good lighting is essential for work and play. You will find a full discussion of this subject on pages 503-516.
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CHAPTER VII
SPECIAL STORAGE PROBLEMS
Storage space that is both adequate and convenient contributes a great deal to comfortable living. Energy is saved and order is pre- served in a house or apartment that is provided v^ith plenty of well- planned closet space. A wholesome respect for the personal rights of others is the natural result of having a place to keep personal posses- sions. A feeling for order and a sense of responsibility in keeping clothes and accessories in good condition are developed also.
Cluttered rooms, where toys, sports equipment, magazines, sewing paraphernalia, and odd pieces of wearing apparel are tumbled about in confusion, are no incentive to family peace. Time is wasted in hunting for misplaced articles, and the wear and tear on nerves can- not be discounted.
The size of the family and the ages, needs and interests of the whole group should be taken into consideration when storage space is planned or redesigned.
It is easier, of course, to do this planning when a house is still in the blue-print stage, or even sooner. Cost is a factor in planning storage space for a new house. One large closet is less expensive than several small ones, and if such a closet is carefully planned and subdivided it can be made convenient. Attic space and the basement, if it is dry, provide additional storage space.
A thoughtful survey of a house already in existence can lead to many ideas for additional or more convenient storage space. Spaces under the stairs, in corners, above doors, in the basement, attic or garage can be utilized to good advantage. Closets can be made much more convenient through the addition of shelves, racks, drawers and par- titions, at very little expense.
Labels and lists do away with opening several boxes, chests or trunks to locate a needed article. Periodic stock-taking and clearing out prevent accumulations of articles that are no longer needed or wanted.
In general, all articles in frequent use should be stored near the place where they are used and where they are easily accessible with- out reaching or stooping. It should not be necessary to grope behind
62
LINEN CLOSET
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other articles to lincl the one that is wanieil. Storage units should be (>lannecl in relation to the size and shape ot the articles to be stored in order to avoid waste space.
Closets can be beautiful as well as useful. The art of closet deco- ration has taken great strides during the past few years, and many stores and sjxxialty shops have a department devoted to closet fittings and decorations. Some even olTcr the services of a "closeteer" who is an expert in planning closet arrangements and decorations! There are gadgets and decorative materials within the range of almost every budget. Whether you shop in the "five and ten" or in an exclusive decorating establishment, you can find matching closet accessories which make you proud to open the door of every closet in your home. However, no gadgets can compensate for inadequate space.
Linen Storage
.\lmost every new house or modern apartment is equipped with a linen closet, but very often the size and depth of the shelves bear no relation whatever to the size and shape of the linens themselves. Furthermore, one unit for linen storage is seldom adequate and unless it is centrally located, many steps are necessary to take out or put away all the difTerent articles that are used in various rooms. Even with careful planning overcrowding is almost unavoidable.
Ideally, linen storage should be provided in several locations. Table linens should be kept in the dining room or close by; towels, wash cloths and bathmats belong in the bathroom. Dish towels, dishcloths and cloths for washing up should be kept in the kitchen; bed linen and bedding are convenient to get at if they are kept in a hall that is adjacent to the bedrooms.
If decentralized linen storage of this kind cannot be obtained, two linen closets can be adapted conveniently in relation to their use. The bedroom and bathroom linen can be stored in a closet in a hall which connects with these rooms, and the dining-room and kitchen linens in a closet near both rcK)ms.
If you arc designing a linen clfiset, you should know the average dimensions of f(jlded linens* in order to plan shelves that are convenient in size and depth. The dimensions for folded linens are given on the next page.
A drop-leaf or pull-out shelf for sorting is a convenience that deserves consideration. Shallow, tray-like drawers for table mats and doilies keep these linens free of creases and wrinkles. Deep shelves at the top to accommodate drop-front boxes in which blankets, quilts and seldom
• .irchitrctural Record.
63
SPECIAL STORAGE PROBLEMS
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Dimensions for Folded Linens 8-10 large bath towels 1 / // t » „ ,
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3 pillows, 2 to 2 2 X I 4 to I O X I
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used linens are stored should be provided. (For moth-preventive stor- age of blankets and quilts see page 376.)
If the outer edge of each shelf is labelled it is easy to keep order and to locate the needed articles at a glance. At least one manufacturer of sheets and pillowcases has attached permanent tab labels indicating the size of each so that it is not necessary to take down and unfold several sheets in order to find one of correct size. Labels that can be ironed on instead of sewed on are a convenience.
It is wise to keep a permanent record of linen purchases. List the date of purchase and the brand name for each item and, finally, next to it, the date of discard. In this way, you can keep track of "best buys" as a guide to future buying.
Clothes Closets
Under ideal conditions each member of the family should have a clothes closet of his own, adec]uate in size and adapted to individual needs and requirements. In addition, a hall closet for outer garments can be shared by the whole family. If too few closets have been built in, it is possible to build one of fiber board, provided there is con- venient wall space available. Portable closets, made of various mate- rials, are available in department stores and can be both attractive and convenient.
Clothes closets should have good ventilation. A window in the closet provides the best ventilation. If a window is not possible, there should be slits in the door. If garments are hung a few inches apart, air will circulate between them to good advantage.
Good lighting is essential. If there is a window in the closet, or if the
64
SPECIAL STORAGE PROBLEMS
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closet is shallow, enough daylight is admitted. Artificial light should be provided by a shaded bulb in the closet. If possible the light should switch off automatically when the door is closed.
Walls and floors should have a washable finish (pages 143-167). The floor of a closet should never be used for storage.
Garment bags, hat boxes and drop-front boxes protect seldom-used clothing from dust. If these are made of transparent material the contents are visible, which is a decided advantage. Garment bags are made in various lengths, intended for blouses, skirts, fur scarves and daytime or evening dresses. Shoulder covers made of cellophane or transparent cloth also help to keep garments from getting dusty.
Auxiliary equipment in the closet makes for good order. Shoes can be kept on a slanting shelf equipped with a heel-rest, in a shoe cabinet or in a bag with pockets, as preferred. Hat stands, tie racks, belt racks, trouser racks and shallow drawers for accessories are all convenient and make these articles of clothing readily accessible.
Hangers are made in a variety of materials ranging in cost from a few pennies to several dollars, and can be selected to match or har- monize with the other closet accessories.
A clothes closet to be used by one person should be at least 2 2" deep and 3' long. A better size is 3' deep and 5^ long. Shallow closets with double doors are becoming increasingly popular. The rod for hangers should be placed from 5' 6" to 6' i" above the floor and 12" out from the wall. About 3" of the length of the rod should be allowed for i garment on a hanger. Space should be provided for storage of garments not in use as well as for those which are being worn currently.
In order to utilize space effectively, it is advisable to know how much room to allow for specific fittings and garments:
Hanger— 16" to 20" wide (allow an additional 2" to 3" for space occupied
by the garment on the hanger) Garment bag— 63" to 69" from tip of hook to bottom of bag; 23" wide Women's dresses— 4' 6" to 5' 6" clearance from floor Man's top coat— 4' to 5" clearance from floor Man's suit (trousers and coat on i hanger) — :;' to 3' 6" clearance from
floor Woman's suit (coat and skirt on i hanger)— 3' 6" to 4^6" clearance from
floor Man's hat— 12" x 12" x 8" Woman's hat— 12" x 14" x 12"
66
CLOTHES CLOSETS— HUR FA U DRAWERS
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There should Ix- a clearance ot about 3 inches between the clothes and rod and the first shelf above it. The next shelf should be 10 to 12 inches above the first. Any shelf higher than 72 inches above room floor is difficult to reach and should be used for "dead" storage.
Children's Closets are discussed on page 53.
Bureau Drawers
Often the most orderly person backslides when it comes to bureau drawers. Undoubtedly this can be blamed partially on the design of the drawers, because functional design has not yet made an im- pression in this field. Most bureau drawers are simply yawning caverns in which articles are flung willy nilly.
It is {X)ssible to improve the situation by installing partitions and by using attractive boxes for smaller articles and accessories. Unless these boxes are transparent they should be neatly labelled. Boxes without lids are more convenient if the articles kept in them are in constant or frequent use. Transparent envelope cases for lingerie, gloves and handkerchiefs keep these articles spotless and unmussed. A lowly, partitioned knife box frcjm the "dime store" can be painted .uid made attractive enough to be used for orderly storage of the assorted trinkets that usually cause confusion in a drawer.
Chests of drawers for closets have been designed by experts to store all types of wearing apparel without any wasted space.
Paper for lining bureau drawers is available in several widths and in charming pastel colors or white. Certain varieties are treated .so that they can be cleaned with a damp cloth. Other washable ma- terials especially intended for lining bureau drawers are to be found in a variety of patterns and colors.
Bureau drawers are not satisfactory for storing articles against moth damage (page 376).
Sports Equipment
Every spring women who have active, athletic families face the problem of finding safe storage space for winter's skates and skis. And every fall, canoe paddles, fishing tackle, ball bats and tennis racquets must be put away.
Although these are the family's most cherished possessions they are often tucked away in the backs of closets to tangle up with clothes; or put in the garage where almost anything may happen to them .ind frequently does.
67
SPECIAL STORAGE PROBLEMS
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Unless you have a special closet for sjx)rts equipment, a shallow built- in cupboard is an excellent solution to his problem, or, if you are so
Draiviny by Effa Bruicn
This convenient closet for storing sports equipment is described on pages 67-69.
fortunate as to have an unused door between two rooms in your house, you have the makings of a permanent and accessible storage closet for much of y(jur sports equipment, in and out of season.
To build this closet, which is illustrated above, close up one side by removing the door frame and inserting a piece of wall board flush with the plaster. Fill in the cracks carefully and paper or paint to match the rest of the room.
Leave the door and frame intact on the other side (of course the
68
SPORTS EQUIPMENT — GARDEN FURNITURE
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door swings oul) and you will have acquired a shallow closet. Al- though it is only tour to six inches deep, with careful planning it will serve your purpose nicely.
Divide the wall space according to the things you have to store. Then attach narrow strips of wood to the wall board wherever you will need to drive nails or screws. Or by resting these strips on little wooden blocks fastened to the door frame, the strips need only to be tacked to the wall board to be fully secure.
Reserve one side, up and down, for long articles such as skis, canoe paddles and fishing rods. For the paddles fasten clamp holders— the flexible kind that you use for your brooms and mops — on the aforementioned strip of wood. Skis and fishing tackle may be held in place with a strap arrangement.
In the lower half of the remaining space make a frame to hold ball bats, and above it hang little boxed shelves for balls— tennis, base- ball and ping-pong, as well as ping-pong paddles. Hang tennis rackets above in some more of the flexible clamp-type holders.
Perhaps you will have to make some provisions for skates, or hockey sticks and shin guards. But whatever your problem, it's a matter of dividing up the space you have so that there is a proper place for everything. Then chances are that everything will stay in its proper place.
Garage Space
Racks for overhead storage in a garage accommodate screens, awn- ings, folding chairs and other awkward articles which are used only during certain seasons. The space beneath the rack can be utilized for storage of garden tools.
Rustic Garden Furniture
Unfortunately rustic furniture is attractive to woodboring insects, and must be protected against their ravages during the season of the year when it is not in use. First of all it should be stored in a dry, unheated place, such as a shed or attic.
When the furniture is stored the legs may be painted with creosote and the furniture wrapped in canvas or tar paper and placed on a sheet of galvanized iron or tin which is bent upward around the edges for a distance of alxiut 6 inches. A coat of varnish applied to the furniture each season is a protection against both weather damage and insect damage, while it is in use.
69
SPECIAL STORAGE PROBLEMS
Miscellaneous Problems
1. Extra storage space in the bathroom
A good spot for an overhead cupboard is in the space above a recessed tub in the bathroom. As this recess is usually five to six feet long, with about twelve inches between shower curtain rod and the ceiling, you can install a very commodious cupboard. This will care nicely for reserve supplies of soap, tissue and drugs.
If you have no shower or one which is rarely used, a cabinet built of ordinary lumber will be satisfactory. But the excessive steam from a shower may cause warping of plain wood. Therefore it is best to make the cabinets over a shower of plywood which has been put together with waterproof glue. Metal cabinets, bought in ready-fabri- cated units, will not warp and are an excellent way to provide cabinet space in bathrooms that are very steamy.
2. Games, playing cards, etc.
Shallow, enclosed shelves may be built in the living room or play room to keep games and cards in order and out of sight when not in use.
3. Phonograph records
Expensive, precious records should be kept in albums or specially designed cabinets, safe from harm. Currently popular dance records that are in constant demand may be kept in open racks, but their paper jackets should not be thrown away. Unless these jackets are put on again after the records are used, dust or careless handling may scratch the records severely.
4. Sheet music
Portfolios keep sheet music in good condition, and if the portfolios are labelled it is always easy to find the music you want.
70
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C H A P 1 E R V I I I
MONEY MANAGEMENT
For years biulgct cxjx-rts constructed tight little percentage patterns, based on various income levels, and told us that we must somehow sc|uccze our budget into one of them. The conscientious among us tried, and tried hard, to make the pattern fit, but as soon as one column of figures was pushed into place, another column bulged out and spoiled everything. Family friction increased whenever the budget failed to balance, and nerves grew tense to the breaking point iluring fruitless searches for a missing fifty cents.
Recent years have clarified the situation somewhat. Even the ex- perts agree that a pattern is only a guide and that every budget is an uidividual problem to be worked out by the family. But only a very few of them have been wise enough to realize that most "standard" budgets are worked out backward, starting with the necessities of shelter, operating expenses, food and clothing and ending with a "sav- ings" account. But the wise ones have realized that money must be spent before it is any good to us. All that isn't spent for present needs is set aside for future spending. And so they start with a future "spending account" that makes budgeting fun rather than hard work. The stern budgeteers of the past told you that you must "save" for death, sickness, accidents, hard times and other catastrophes that might befall you, denying by indirection that virtue is its own reward. The cheerful budgeteers of today advise you to put aside money to be spent later on for some definite thing that you want and need, and to build the rest of the budget, including a "back log" or "emer- gency" fund, around this sum. A budget of this sort can be a road map marking the way to your heart's desire.
Ihe reward can be big or little, ranging from a new set of dishes to a car or a house. You may decide to make a five-year plan or a one-month plan, depending on the goal. The imfx)rtant thing is that a reward is in view. This reward should be of interest to the whole family, of cf)urse, and a council should be called to decide on some- thing that the majority are eager to have.
Cjct the family together and list everything that everybody wants: the clothing items each one needs; new e(]uipment for kitchen and
MONEY MANAGEMENT
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laundry and tools for work bench or garden or garage; household furnishings for living room, dining room and bedroom, whether re- pair of old or purchase of new; a rug, a picture or a musical instru- ment; and then personal needs— for games at home and sports out- side, for recreation, for arts and crafts, for reading, music, plays and movies. Of high importance are books, magazines and lectures that will aid father in his vocation and mother in her homemaking. When the lists are made, discuss them in a breezy family round table and choose the most important items to try to secure month by month for next year. Many will have to be deferred, but why miss the thrill of thinking that it would be nice to have this or that sometime; and that we will have it too! Such goals are good for family ambition. Some things desired can be made at home; free books and magazines are awaiting us at libraries, free lectures and music are available for the asking or the arranging of a committee to provide them which we might help establish. Once the goal is established, set the date for achievement, and plan to put aside a certain sum each week or month until the reward is won.
Now you are ready to construct the rest of your spending plan, in order to find the ways and means to save the reward fund. You may find so many small "leaks" after a month or so of budgeting that the reward fund will accumulate more rapidly than you had hoped.
The next step is to set down the amount of all fixed expenses, which, for the time being at least, cannot be altered. These expenses include rent, or interest on a mortgage, taxes, commutation to business, pay- ments on indebtedness, contributions toward the support of relatives, insurance payments of all kinds, church pledges, club or organization dues, etc.
If the total amount spent for fixed expenses makes it impossible to save for the reward fund, look carefully for ways in which these ex- penses can be cut.
Once the budget is set up, it is wise to deposit 1/12 the total of fixed expenses each month or 1/52 each week, either in the general checking account, a special checking account, or a special savings account, so that the money will be on hand when it is needed. It is also helpful to list the dates on which any commitments are due.
Flexible expenses come up for consideration next. These are more fun to work with because if extravagances show up, they can be dealt with at once. Food, clothing, all expenses connected with running the house, and the cost of items usually listed under "advancement" or "development" belong in columns under this main heading.
If the income is small, food costs loom large in proportion. Some-
72
SAVING BY PLANNING
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Pliotoijraph 6j' Ji. Ariustruny Huberts
A budget based on the reward system can be a road map to your heart'c tiesire.
times when the family is large the entire budget must be built around this item. Even when the family is small the cost of food is often disproportionate. Time spent in planning usually results in money saved. If menus are planned and written down several days ahead, marketing will be easier and less costly. You will find it possible to take advantage of "week-end specials," to plan for left-overs, and to provide for more variety in the meals you serve to your family. Cook- ing ability is a big help in cutting food costs, because inexpensive ffxjds, skillfully prepared, often top higher-priced foods in flavor, health value and "appetite appeal."
It helps also occasionally to keep a detailed food record for a couple of weeks or a month with separate totals for cost of cereal ftxjds; truits and vegetables; meats, fish and eggs; milk and cheese; and in a final class, fats, sugar and miscellaneous items. On a modest income, in order to get a balanced diet, not far from 1/5 of the food money should go for each of these five groups, namely: cereal foods; fruits and vegetables; meals, [v.\\ and eggs; milk and cheese; and fats, sugars and miscellaneous. A simple f(M)d cheik htr a family with children
73
MONEY MANAGEMENT
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is to spend as much for milk as for fruits and vegetables; and to spend as much for milk as for meats. There is also the fundamental milk rule to use a quart a day for children and a pint a day for adults. Another useful food check is of one's total food cost, which will vary from about 25 cents per person per day to 50 cents per person per day; to do this, find the monthly food bill and divide it by 30 or y for the daily food cost and this again by the number of persons in the family. If in a family with children the daily food cost per person is 25 cents or thereabouts, one cannot do much better than that at a minimum cost; 40 cents per person per day should represent a moder- ate cost for food; and 50 cents per person per day a liberal cost.
What will clothing cost? In a wage -earner's family, the wife's clothing may cost about $70; the husband's nearer $100, and the chil- dren's from 5525 to $60 each; but older-teen and working young people's, more of course than their parents'. On a $2400 family income the mother's and the father's clothing may each be about $100, hers per- haps a little more than his; on a $3600 income they will each have $150 or more and hers will be definitely the larger. Yet every wife knows the importance of her husband's appearance being suitable to his vocational position; and every mother knows that children involve sacrifice of parental outlays in dress or other items.
However, many factors affect the amount that must be spent for clothing— climate, activities, interests and social or business obligations, all are involved. A list of a year's needs should be made for each member of the family, and the items on hand checked off. It is often necessary to look ahead two or three years in order to plan wisely for a major purchase such as a winter coat. An estimate of the cost of items to be purchased can then be made. Actual expenditures depend upon your ability to compare quality and price, to watch for sales at reliable stores, to read labels and to follow directions for care. If you know the best methods for laundering (pages 255-305), mending and pressing (page 279), you can prolong the useful life of clothes.
Now get your bills together and see how much you pay for gas, electricity, fuel, ice, water, telephone, laundry, garbage collection, household help, repairs, replacements, household supplies and home furnishings. Are you amazed at the present cost of running your house? Which items seem too high? Can you cut them? Don't sac- rifice good lighting, but don't keep lights on in empty rooms. Learn to operate your kitchen range and electrical appliances economically. Keep track of telephone calls so that you won't exceed the limit unless absolutely necessary. Operate your heating plant efficiently (pages 413- 445). Buy furnishings with an eye to wearing qualities and clean-
74
THE TENTATIVE BUDGET
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ability. Don't waste water by letting faucets drip. As you sec, there are many ways to cut ojX'rating costs if you are determined to do so.
Now for another main heading of our budget— advancement or development. Under this heading come health, recreation, pocket money, personal care, automobile expenses, gifts, contributions and etlucation. Under health we list medical and dental care and drugs. Regular visits to your physician and dentist are chea{>er than emer- gency measures necessitated by neglect. The Chinese pay their doctors to keep them well, and this seems to be the best idea of all. Hospital insurance, costing two to three pennies a day, is a wise investment for every family, even though they may never need it. And meeting bills caused by illness, through membership in an insurance associa- tion, is a method which is now becoming available.
Recreation almost deserves to be listed under health, so essential is it to well-being and happiness. It is not at all necessary to be extravagant in order to have fun, but neither is it wise to be stingy to the point of starvation. Magazines, newspapers, books and circu- lating-library fees all come under the head of education, as do fees for professional associations, school expenses, etc.
Another column of your tentative budget lists savings and invest- ments. Figures for payments on property (exclusive of interest), annuities, endowment policies, life insurance, stocks and bonds, de- posits in the savings bank and your reward fund are entered in this column.
Some families whose incomes boast a small surplus, or who can "manage" to reserve a few dollars over and above expenses, like to build up a separate bank account as an emergency reserve or "balance wheel." This account should never be drawn upon for minor emer- gencies or to make up deficits. Authorities recommend that $500- $1000 be built up and maintained in this account.
One dollar a week seems a minimum amount to save, and as in- come increases one should save up to one dollar in every ten dollars earned or more; these savings should go part into life insurance and part into the "balance wheel" account. How much life insurance.'* For a family of two, enough insurance to pay bills in case of the husband's death, and to provide a temporary income for the wife- say a $5000 ordinary life policy type costing $Mo-$ioo a year. When a child is expected and for every additional dependent in the family another policy should be taken out in temporary-term life insurance of $1000 to S5000 or more, costing only Sio a year for $1000, and car- ried until the child reaches majority. Most teachers look forward to
[Continued on page y8\
75
Month of.
Income
Source Anit
Total
Payment on Debts
Items Amt
Total
Savings
Items
Reward Fund Annuity or
Endowment Life Insurance Mortgage
Principal Investments Bank Deposits Other
Total
Amt.
Shelter
Operating Expenses
Food
Items
Rent or
Mortgage Interest
Taxes
Insurance
Improvements
Repairs
Transportation to Business
Other
Total
Amt.
Taxes
Item.'^
Income State Federal
Other (F.xcept .^uto and Real Fstate)
Total
.\mt.
76
items
Electricity
Oas
Fuel
Telephone
(iarbage
Collection Water Ice
Service
Repairs
Furiii.-lii.igs
I louselioiJ Supplies
Laundry Other
Amt.
Total
Special Expenses
Items
Total
Amt.
Items
.\mt.
Total
Suggested
19
CU)thing
New
Item:
Total
Amt.
Clothing Upkeep
rt Items Amt.
Total
General
Automobile Advancement
Items Ami
Total
Health
« Items Amt.
Total
I terns
Total
Amt.
Budget Form
Summary
|. Month ly
Shelter
Total
Operating;
K.xpenses
Ta.xes
Special E.xpenses
Food
Clothin>;
New
Upkeep
General
Automobile
Health
Advancement
Payment on
Debts
—
—
Total Expense
Cash on Hand
(first of this
month)
Income
—
Total
—
Deduct Total
Expense
—
Balance
—
Deduct Savings
—
Balance or
Cash on Hand
—
—
Comments
77
MONEY MANAGEMENT
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[Continued from page y^]
a pension, and are depositing annually 5 per cent of salary for it; through Social Security legislation, most workers anticipate old-age pensions; any family that does not have this old-age protection should devote 5 per cent or more of income to an old-age annuity secured from a life insurance company. Families that are buying their life insurance by weekly payments to a collector should transfer to a plan payable every three months, or once a year, at the company's office, thus increasing their insurance by half as much again at the same annual cost. In a few states it is possible to buy life insurance cheaply through savings banks. This type of insurance should be made legal in all states.
How are you going to keep your record? Choose a system that seems easiest to you. Insurance companies, finance companies, savings banks, state schools of home economics, and the home economics extension services all offer such systems. You will even find good budget record books in the five-and-ten-cent stores. On pages 76-77 is a record plan which can be entered in a large notebook.
Who keeps the budget? Some authorities say the man of the house should accept this responsibility. Others believe that the homemaker, who spends 85 cents out of every dollar, is the logical person to record expenditures. We believe that the choice should be made by the family, and that the one who takes most naturally to figures and records should keep the budget.
Don't make the mistake of imposing drastic regulations on every one in the family. It isn't reasonable to watch every penny with a feverish eye, and it certainly takes all the joy out of life. Each person should have pocket money, the amount gauged according to age and needs. Only the lump sum need be entered in the record, under "advancement" in a column headed "Personal Allowances." If some one chooses to spend only part of his pocket money and build a per- sonal reward fund with the balance, that is his affair. If another chooses to scatter every penny hither and yon, that is his business. But it should be clearly understood that pocket money must be made to last a specified length of time, and that no more will be forth- coming during that period.
When you begin to keep a record it is a good plan to set down your assets and liabilities in opposite columns. Under assets or prop- erty (what you ou/n), record the cash value of life insurance, the trade-in value of your car, cash in the savings bank, the balance in your checking account, the market value of stocks and bonds, the value of your. home, the value of home furnishings and cash on hand. Under liabilities or debts (what you ou^e), list the amount of mort-
78
"PATTERN" FOR MAKING A BUDGET
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^agcs, any balance due on loans or installment purchases, and bills due and unpaid. The sum of assets less the sum of liabilities is your net trorth, or what you have as a net balance. At the beginning of each "budget year," repeat this listing and watch the progress of your net worth. Does it grow larger each year, showing financial progress.? An inventory of house furnishings and their value should be kept in a safe place such as a safe-deposit box, and brought up to date each year. Insurance companies can usually supply you with a form for keeping this record. If a fire should destroy your property you could not de{-)end on memory to calculate your loss in order to make a report to the insurance company.
It would not be fair if we omitted a "pattern" for making a budget. But we must reiterate our insistence that this pattern is only a guide in round numbers and is not to be considered rigid or unyieldmg m any way:
Rent (if heat is included)— *25 per cent of income Rent (if heat must be supplied)— *20 per cent of income (If you are buying your home, or already own it, the "rent" is the total of interest on mortgage, taxes, insurance, upkeep and repairs which should not ordinarily exceed Vs to i/io of income. If payments on principal are included it may reach !4 to 1/5 of income.)
Clothes— 15 per cent of income Operating expenses— 10-15 per cent of income Food— 20-55 per cent of income (the smaller the income, the larger the percentage that must be spent for food)
Advancement— 15-20 per cent of income. Savings (other than life insurance) — 10 per cent of income Life insurance— the face of your policies should amount to 2 or more years' income
"Let's have a look at the record" is a familiar political cliche, but it has its place in family finances. If good management and wise buying have come before, it won't be a painful process and it will open your eyes to "leaks" in expenditures.
A study of consumer expenditures in the United States, made by the National Resources Committee, for the year 1935-36, contains a chart which gives the average expenditures of American families, by
•F'rovukil th.it in your community it is possible to provide safe shelter for your f.imily tor this amount.
79
MONEY MANAGEMENT
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income levels. We have selected the figures on four income levels, merely to show how money is spent, not necessarily how it should be spent! Savings are represented by the difference between money earned and money spent.
There never was a perfect budget, and there is a strong probability that there never will be. Mistakes will occur, and need not occasion any wailing or gnashing of teeth because such mistakes will prove helpful in setting up a better budget for next year. You will find that your income has taken on a surprising elasticity, and stretches much farther than before your budget was set up. And the reward system will bring you pleasure and profit.
Installment Buying
"Consumer credit" and "p^y out of income" are words that we hear with ever-increasing frequency. Buyers are urged, sometimes under high-pressure tactics, to have all the things they need and want through the magic of "a small down payment" and "easy monthly payments" thereafter.
It is tempting to think that your savings account, if you have one, need not be disturbed in order to enjoy a new radio. Or, if you have no reserve fund, it is equally tempting to think that the radio can be paid for out of income.
Remove yourself from the source of high-pressure talk long enough to do a little clear thinking and figuring.
Ask yourself, first of all, whether you really must have the desired object immediately, or whether you can wait while you systematically accumulate a "reward fund" to pay for it outright. If you have a savings account, figures will tell you whether you will actually save money if you pay the necessary amount from this account and then pay it back to the account in "easy payments" (minus the interest which installment payments cost). The chances are that you will find that you can wait to accumulate the money, or that it would be cheaper to pay cash.
Installment buying is justified when a real need exists. For example, if an old refrigerator cannot be depended on to maintain safe tem- peratures, and if there is a baby in the family, it would be wise to buy a new refrigerator (on the installment plan) immediately, to safe- guard the baby's health, rather than wait to accumulate the necessary amount. But a further question always is: what is the cheapest way to get credit when it is thus necessary?
The disadvantages of the ordinary installment plan are that it nar-
80
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MONEY MANAGEMENT
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rows the choice of merchandise and reduces the chance for comparative shopping or "good buys." It has one advantage in that it satisfies wants and needs in the present rather than in the future.
Therefore, before you are tempted too far, be sure that:
1. A real need exists.
2. You have made cost comparisons wherever possible.
3. You know how much interest you will have to pay.
4. You understand every word of the contract.
5. You can keep your promise to pay.
It is comforting to know that the great majority of firms that sell goods on the installment plan are ethical. But in self-protection, be sure before you sign.
So-called "add-on contracts" are unfair to the purchaser. This is the way such contracts work: Mr. Smith buys $150 worth of furniture and has 15 months in which to pay. After 12 months he buys another hundred dollars worth of furniture. If he reads his contract down to the last line of fine print, he will find that until this additional amount is paid he will not own the furniture he purchased in the first place. The wary buyer will therefore ask pertinent questions prior to signing for a second purchase before the first purchase is paid for in full.
Double-security contracts are, in the words of one expert, "particu- larly offensive." The double security is a wage assignment clause or a clause which constitutes a special claim against the purchaser's assets in the case of default. Be sure your contract does not contain a clause of this kind.
Deficiency judgments and payments are entirely legal and within the rights of the dealer. A buyer cannot return purchased goods be- fore they are completely paid for, and escape the consequences. Re- possession and resale cost the dealer money. For example, Mr. Jones buys a car for $600 and makes a down payment of $240. The balance is to be paid in 12 installments of $30 each. Mr. Jones finds, after making 3 payments totalling $90, that he cannot continue, and returns the car. He has paid a total of $330 to the dealer. The dealer resells the car for $270 but repossession had cost him S30. Thus he has made $240 by resale. The grand total is $570, but the original sale price was $600. Thus the dealer has a legal and enforceable claim against Mr. Jones for $30.
Read your contract carefully to see whether guarantees are waived. You may find that you agree to pay regardless of damage or unsatis-
82
INSTALLMENT BUY I NG — BORROWING
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factory performance. If the goods prove unsatisfactory it will be necessary to go to court and have the case examined on its merits. Waivers should be considered seriously, and you should be sure that the dealer is dependable and backs the goods he sells.
Contracts that are long, detailed and printed in part in small type are likely to contain "jokers." Read every word before you sign. Re- liable dealers usually submit brief, clearly worded contracts that set forth all details in terms that are easily understood.
The above facts point out that it is wiser to build up credit so that it will be possible to borrow funds at reasonable interest and pay cash to the dealer.
Borrowing Money
It is no disgrace to borrow money if a real need exists, and if the borrower is certain that he can pay it back. Of course only the amount necessary to meet the emergency should be borrowed.
The borrower should know four things before a contract is signed:
1. The total amount of money which must be paid back.
2. The amount of each installment and the intervals at which pay- ments are to be made.
3. The total cost of the loan (interest).
4. The terms of the contract.
There are many sources for loans and, in self-protection, the bor- rower should choose a company which operates under a state license or state regulation.
The company usually bases its willingness to lend money on two things:
1. The earning capacity of the borro\\'er.
2. Security, or proof that the loan will be repaid even though the borrower fails to carry out his promise.
(a) Stocl^s and bonds (Interest rate is low when quickly salable stocks and bonds are given as security. If the value declines, the borrower must make good the difference, or the lender may be obliged to sell the securities in order to avoid loss. It the stocks and bonds are thus sold at a profit, the borrower receives a refund.)
{b) Insurance policy (Amount of the loan depends on the cash
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value of the insurance. Life insurance companies and banks make loans on policies. The amount depends on the size of the policy, its kind and the years it has been in force. If the borrower dies before the loan is paid back, the company will deduct the amount remaining unpaid, plus interest, from the settlement value of the policy.)
(c) Chattel mortgage on automobile or other property.
{d) One or more *co-ma}{€rs.
It is important for a borrower to know the types of organizations which make loans:
1. Credit Unions: A group with a common interest, such as a lodge, a business or a community, joins in a cooperative plan to make small loans available to its members.
These unions are organized under state or federal laws. Members buy shares and pay an entrance fee. A profit is paid to shareholders.
The maximum interest rate is i to 1^/2 per cent per month on the unpaid balance of loans made to members. A co-maker is usually required to guarantee the loan, but sometimes a second mortgage on real estate or a chattel mortgage on home furnishings is ac- cepted as security.
2. Cooperative Bankj, Building and Loan Companies and Federal Loan Ban/{s: These organizations operate in much the same way as Credit Unions but are open to a wider clientele and are par- ticularly helpful if families wish to borrow in order to build. They also ofifer excellent plans for saving.
3. Commercial Ban\s: The Personal Loan Departments of commer- cial banks will make small loans which run for a period up to a year.
A co-maker or other security is required.
The borrower's application must be approved by the bank after enquiry.
The interest rate is governed by state laws and the bank's own policy. A service fee is sometimes charged. This fee and the in- terest are usually deducted in advance. A delinquency fee is charged if payments are not made regularly. Loans from a com- mercial bank are usually the cheapest and most satisfactory per- sonal credit, when available.
*\ co-maker is a person who guarantees your repayment and agrees to pay it himself it you default.
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4. Iniiustnal Bant{'<: This tyj>e of bank usually operates under the jurisdiction of the banking department of the state in which it is located.
An application is filled out by the borrower, and an investigation
is made by the bank.
A co-maker or other security is usually required.
Interest and the amount of the service fee are deducted in advance.
The amount of interest is governed by the banking laws of the state.
A delinquency fee is charged if payments are not made as promised.
5. Finance Companies: These companies specialize in loans to bor- rowers who have little or no security to ofTer, and interest rates are consequently higher.
One or two co-makers are usuall) required if other security such as a chattel mortgage cannot be arranged. These companies do not foreclose unless the borrower makes no effort to repay, or is attempt- ing to defraud. Finance companies operate under the Small Loan Law in states where this law is in force. (Unfortunately, legal super- vision is lacking in a number of states.) The borrower receives a printed or written statement which shows clearly the amount of the loan, the date it was made, the maturity date, the nature of the security and the rate of interest charged. When the loan is paid in full, all papers must be marked "paid" or "cancelled" and returned with any securities to the borrower. Charges cannot be deducted in advance on the unpaid balance. Under the Small Loan Law these companies are allowed to charge up to ^Yi per cent interest on the unpaid balance. The borrower has 12, 15 or 20 months to pay.
6. Pawnbrokers: A pledge of personal property such as jewelry or silverware must be delivered into the custody of the lender and held until the loan is repaid.
Most pawnbrokers operate under a city license, as only a few states have regulations for this type of lending. The amount of the loan is usually 50-70 per cent of the forced sale value of the property, and usually cannot be repaid in installments. The cost of the loan varies, and the borrower should know what this cost is before surrendering his property.
The pawn ticket should be read carefully before leaving the shop, to find out when the property will be sold if the loan is not paid.
7. Illegal Lenders: Any one who unwittingly borrows money from a "loan shark" is apt to sufTer heavy jxrnaltics in the form of hid-
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den charges, threats and huge fees if payments are dehnquent. Illegal lenders should be reported to a local Better Business Bureau, Welfare Agency, Legal Aid Society or prosecuting attorney. Un- scrupulous agencies are still operating in a number of states. You can get information about conditions in your state from the Pollak Foundation, Newton, Mass., or your local Better Business Bureau.
Precautions:
1. Try for credit first at a commercial bank.
2. Never deal with a company not licensed by the state and under state supervision. The license must be displayed in full view and carry the date of the year of issue.
3. Never sign a contract unless you clearly understand the terms.
4. Think carefully before you act as co-maker or sign a note for any one. Your signature makes you responsible for payment if the borrower defaults or becomes unable to pay. Can you afford to under- take this responsibility.''
5. If you wish advice, information is given by Better Business Bureaus, State Banking Departments, Legal Aid Societies, and Wel- fare Agencies.
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CHAPTER IX
HOME SAFETY
Home, to almost every one, is sanctuary— the one place where we find release from the cares and alTairs of the world, where we are pro- tected and safe from mishap and tragedy.
But is home really a safe place? Not according to statistics! Actually the total number of fatal accidents which occur in the home is about one third of the number of all fatal accidents. Non-fatal home accidents also reach a staggering total every year.
The encouraging note is that most of these accidents could be avoided. The Home Safety Committee of the National Safety Council has analyzed thousands of home accidents and found that they can be at- tributed to three major causes— carelessness, indilTerence to risk, and ignorance of danger.
There is no need to make ourselves nervous. This is the worst atti- tude to take, and one that will do no good to any one. Besides, nervous- ness is one of the reasons accidents happen. The constructive thing to do IS to make our own home a safe place to live in, through greater clhciency in home management. If each of us does this, the appalling total of home accidents will grow progressively less.
FIRES
Modern construction of houses resists fire, but it remains a major obligation for us to prevent fires by every means in our power. In order to do this intelligently, we must know the common causes of fire, and eliminate them from our homes.
Common Causes of Fires I. Rubbish
Never allow trash of any sort to accumulate in or around the house. If you cannot dispose of it immediately, put it in a metal can with a heavy metal cover until it can be burned or collected. When it is neces- sary to burn rubbish yourself, use an incinerator approved by the Underwriters' Laboratory. Never burn trash near the house, or on a windy day.
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Oily cloths, paint cloths and greasy dungarees or overalls are a menace. Never leave them in warm closets or folded and laid on a shelf. Keep cloths used for furniture polish or for painting jobs, in tightly covered metal boxes, and hang clothing in a well-ventilated place until laundered.
Newspapers have an innocent air, but if you leave them in heavy piles in a warm basement or attic, you are literally playing with fire, because a combination of dampness, heat and chemicals in the ink can start a blaze.
Holiday wrappings, crepe paper decorations, Christmas trees and greens should all be considered as rubbish once the festive occasion is over, and disposed of quickly.
2. Chimneys, Flues and Fireplaces
Neglect is often a cause of chimney fires. Yearly cleaning and in- spection (page 417) are essential as preventive measures.
All flues and pipes should be surrounded by fireproof material if they pass through wooden floors or partitions or are situated near them.
Cracked bricks, a defective hearth or fireplace opening are all fire hazards, and should be repaired as soon as noticed.
If resinous wood such as pine is burned in a fireplace, particular care should be given to soot accumulations which may catch fire easily.
Always use a fire screen to keep sparks or embers off rugs and floor and to protect clothing.
Never leave the house or retire for the night if there is a blazing fire in the fireplace. Wait until it burns down, or extinguish carefully with water and leave the fire screen in place.
Wood ashes from a fireplace or stove are extremely treacherous. They may look quite dead and still be hot enough to cause a fire. So dispose of them in a metal barrel.
3. Heating Systems and Space Heaters
Seasonal overhauling of the heating system (page 417) brings to light all defects such as rusted pipes, loose connections or cracks which are potential fire hazards. Faulty installation of a heating system is a source of danger, if you are in doubt, have an inspection made by a competent authority (page 417).
The base of a furnace should rest on cement, concrete or brick.
Never leave the house when a draft in furnace or stove is open.
Never use kerosene to kindle a fire.
Never put hot ashes into anything but a metal container.
Room heaters or space heaters should be set at least 18 inches from the wall to prevent any danger of overheating the wall. The flooring
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under iK)n-portablc heaters, such as a Frankhn stove, should be pro- tected bv sheet metal which is larger than the base of the stove and which extends at least 12 inches beyond the front of the stove.
4. Matches
In the hands of ih(jughiless persons or children, matches are always a hazard.
Safety matches which strike only on their own bo.x are preferable to the strike-anywhere type. Matches approved by the Underwriters' Laboratories do not throw ofT sparks when struck, and are treated to prevent afterglow. The hot heads will not drop ofT after use. Look for a statement of the Underwriters' Laboratories approval on the match box. All matches should be kept out of reach of children, and away from sources of heat.
Be sure a match is out before throwing it away. And never throw one into a waste basket, out or not.
Never light a match in a closet or garage— use a flashlight.
5. Careless Smo/{ing
Probably some persons in your family are smokers. If so, train them in the way they should go and eliminate them as fire hazards only uhen you are absolutely sure the training has taken eflect. And even then, keep a watchful eye on them.
Provide plenty of large ash trays and place them in strategic positions in each room. This is cheap insurance against the possibility of the waste basket being used. Ashtrays with a center holder for book matches are hazardous. If a lighted cigarette ignites the matches, severe burns may result. Before you empty ash trays be absolutely certain that no ends are smouldering.
Teach each smoker to place a burning cigarette correctly on the rim of an ashtray, burning end out, so that if it is forgotten the butt will fall on the tray and only ashes will fall on the table.
Be a complete martinet in forbidding every one to smoke in bed. Tell them you value their lives even if they apparently do not.
6. Gasoline, Kerosene and Other Flammable Compounds
One pint of gasoline has the explosive potential of a pound of dyna- mite. Would you store dynamite in your house?
^'et daily the huge total of deaths and frightful injuries from explo- sions caused by gasoline, benzine or naphtha mounts.
Let us shout it from the housetops— never bring a drop of gasoline into your house! Never use it except to run your automobile. Banish appliances operated by gasoline— they are never safe.
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And if you are tempted to use gasoline, benzine or naphtha for home dry cleaning, believing it safe if you work out of doors, remember that friction can generate a spark. And that will be the end of all tempta- tion for you.
Kerosene, if treated with respect, is relatively safe. Modern kerosene ranges, hot-water systems and space heaters are designed for safe and efficient operation if installations are made correctly and if instructions for use and care are followed carefully. Look for the Underwriters' Laboratories approval seal on kerosene-burning appliances.
Kerosene lamps should have wide bases and preferably should be made of metal rather than glass, because of breakage hazards. Never let children carry such lamps, and never set them on an insecure surface or on a tablecloth which a child might pull oflf. Never place a lamp near curtains.
Never fill lamps or oil stoves while they are lighted or hot. Fill re- ceptacles by daylight, away from any open flame. Keep wicks trimmed and reservoirs and lamp chimneys clean. After lighting a lamp, don't leave it until you are sure the wick is properly adjusted so that it will not flare up.
Never use kerosene to kindle a fire.
7. Defective Wiring
Was the wiring in your home installed by an expert electrician, in accordance with the National Electrical Code? If you are not sure, have it checked. Inspection is necessary also, whenever you make any changes in wiring, in order to eliminate the danger of overloading the circuit.
Worn cords are a fire hazard and a shock hazard, and should be re- placed immediately. Make a frequent inspection of cords yourself. When you buy new cords, look for the label of the Underwriters' Lab- oratories—your assurance that the cord will wear well, and that it is safe as long as it is kept in good condition. Never nail extension cords to wall or floor. Keep cords away from radiators and heating pipes. Cords which are used in laundries and basements should have special waterproof covering.
Always grasp the plug, not the cord, when disconnecting any elec- trical device. Never bend or twist a connecting cord; this may break the fine wires inside. Hang cords over two wooden pegs or broad hooks about six inches apart.
Makeshift wiring should be outlawed. Instead of risking fire or shock by running long extension cords along the baseboard and under rugs, (;r connecting several appliances to one outlet by means of a multiple
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COMMON CAUSES OF FIRES
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plug, install additional outlets and house circuits. Wiring for radio installations should be done by an expert, just as house wiring is.
Fuses are safety devices. If one "blows" it means trouble in the form of an overload or short circuit. Don't replace it until you know what has caused the dilTiculty and have remedied it. Without fuses to warn of trouble, and to disconnect the circuit in case of trouble, the wires would become overheated and start a tire. Never try to restore the flow of current by using any makeshift or substitute for a fuse. This is a dangerous practice, as is using a larger fuse, because any such device will overload the wiring, and the chances are nine out of ten that the wires will overheat and start a fire. The fuse for a lighting circuit should not be larger than 15 amperes.
Be certain that your radio is properly grounded, and that the antenna is equipped with a well-grounded lightning arrester. Never attach the antenna to electric-light poles or over or under power lines. Radio wires which lead through walls or partitions must be encased in tubes of porcelain or rubber.
Many a fire has started because an electrical appliance has been left connected and forgotten. Make it an automatic reflex action to pull out the plug the moment you are through using an electrical appliance.
Electrical heating pads are great comforters, but for safety's sake look for the Underwriters' Laboratories Seal before you buy.
For information and suggestions concerning adequate wiring, see pages 477-482.
8. Fat Fires
Broilers that are not well designed or properly used may cause a fat fire. If one starts, turn ofT the heat at once, and throw salt, bicarbonate of soda or sand on the blaze, if a foam-type fire extinguisher is not at hand. Never try to put out a fat fire with water or flour. Water spreads the blaze and flour may explode.
Don't fill a deep fat frying kettle more than two-thirds full or the fat may spatter or boil over and blaze furiously, spreading fast. If this should happen, turn off the heat, and cover the kettle with a metal cover if you can do so at no risk to yourself. Use a foam-type fire ex- tinguisher, salt, bicarbonate of soda or sand to smother burning fat out- side the kettle.
If a fat fire gains headway, call th(: fire department.
9. Candles and Lamps
Candles give a lovely light, it's true, but don't take them up into the attic or into a closet to light your way. For this purpose a flashlight is not only more efficient but much safer. Keep lighted candles away
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from curtains or flimsy materials and out of sudden gusts of air.
Candlesticks should have a wide base, and the candles should be selected with care so that they fit firmly into the holder. A wobbly or top-heavy candle is a real menace. As an added precaution, hold the base of the candle over heat until it begins to melt, then press it firmly into the candlestick. Or better still, fit rubber collars (from the dime store) around the bases. Hurricane candle lamps are very much the fashion, and are much safer than naked candles.
Extinguish a candle before it burns down into the socket of the candlestick. Never use a candlestick made of combustible material such as celluloid.
Lampshades arc often made of material which ignites if overheated, therefore examine your lamps to be sure there is a generous space be- tween the shade and the lamp bulb. Shades on candles are a definite invitation to fire.
Be sure lamp bulbs are perfectly dry after cleaning before you replace them in their sockets (page 197).
10. Gas Leal{s
Act the moment you smell escaping gas, because your nose soon be- comes insensitive to this odor. Unless the source is obvious— an open jet on the range, for example— don't attempt to locate it yourself. Tele- phone the gas company at once.
Is it really necessary to say "never look for a leak with a lighted match or candle?" Even a flashlight is not absolutely safe, for under certain unusual circumstances, flashlight batteries can set off an explosion.
Local plumbers may not be competent gas fitters. Have any gas pip- ing installation done by experts. If you are in doubt about the present installation, have it inspected by a trained employee of the gas company.
11. Fireworkj
The fun of fireworks isn't worth the price so often paid in fires, in- juries, disfigurements and death. On the Fourth of July, take the chil- dren on a special pleasure jaunt, or to see a municipal display of fire- works from a safe distance. Keep fireworks out of your house and out of your children's hands.
12. Christmas Decorations and Lighting
Candles on the Christmas tree, cotton batting around its base, parcels in flimsy wrappings piled all around— and Disaster, one of the invited guests!
If you must light the tree, use electricity, choose lighting sets that are
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marked with the approval ol the Underwriters' Lalxiratories, and don't ttverload the circuit. Never, put paper shields over the lights.
Dry Christmas trees and wreaths are highly flammahlc and ignite easily. Get them out of the house soon after Christmas and he sure that they do not fall into the hands of youngsters who are looking for bon- fire fuel. Hand them to the garbage collector yourself, or sec that they arc safely burned.
I :;. Celluloid
Celluloid and similar compounds arc dangerous because they contain c\[ilosive elements and are flammable. It is not wise to buy toys, house- hold ornaments, toilet articles or other objects which are made of these materials. Such objects are ignited by heat and must be kept away from stoves, electric irons or curling irons, electric lights, etc. Never smoke while you are wearing glasses with flammable frames, or an eyeshade made of such material.
Fire Fighters
Many a disastrous fire could have been put out before it did much damage if a fire extinguisher had been near at hand. One should be kept in the kitchen, one in the basement and one in the upper hall, acces- sible from the bedrooms. It is a good idea to have one in the attic and one in the front hall downstairs, if possible. Of course you have one in the garage. There are several types of tire extinguishers, each type de- signed to put out a specific type of fire. Follow the manufacturer's direc- tions regarding purpose, installation, and use.
When you use an extinguisher, aim at the burning material itself, not at the flame. Be sure each member of the family understands how to operate the extinguisher. There's no time to study directions after a blaze starts.
;\utomatic sprinkler systems and fire alarms may now be installed in homes, and are splendid protection.
It is sometimes possible to have faucets on stair landings in the attic and basement, with short lengths of hose attached, ready to put out a blaze that starts in either place. A garden hose may be used for out- door fires.
Some fires can be beaten out by a broom, rug or coat.
It is possible to fireproof fabrics at home quite easily. Window cur- i.iins, draperies, ironing board covers, pot holders, rugs near fireplaces, children's clothes and hf)usc dresses can be safely treated with a firc- [iroofing solution which will not alTect color, appearance or "feel" of the
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fabric. Articles so treated are not lOO per cent fireproof, but are fire- resistant and char instead of blazing. The following formula, recom- mended by the Government, is cheap, stable, non-corrosive, non-caustic and non-poisonous:
Fireproofing Solution
Dissolve 7 ounces borax and 3 ounces boric acid in 2 quarts hot water. Dip dry article in solution until thoroughly wet. Wring out and dry. Or spray the solution on rugs, draperies, etc., with a common garden spray until thoroughly wet. If the fabric is water-resistant add enough soap to the solution to make suds. Articles must be retreated after each washing.
What to Do in Case of Fire
The House on Fire
1. First of all, keep your head and don't give way to panic.
2. Call the fire department instantly. If you telephone, say "Fire De- partment—Emergency," and stay at the telephone until you give the operator your address. If you turn in an alarm from an outside fire- alarm box, wait beside it to direct the firemen.
3. Never go into a room where there is a strong blaze.
4. Keep out of a smoke-filled room or basement.
5. If you smell smoke and qre trying to trace the fire, keep windows closed and shut doors after you. A draft will fan a smoldering fire into flames. Close all doors that will confine a blaze.
6. Never open a door without touching it to see if it feels hot. If so, don't open it; if not hot, open with extreme caution, bracing your foot against it. Otherwise pressure created by the fire may fling it open in your face, and make it impossible to slam it shut quickly.
Clothing on Fire
1. Never run.
2. Drop to the floor and wrap yourself in a rug, blanket, coat or any heavy covering at hand.
3. If nothing is at hand, roll slowly, and beat out the flames with your hands.
4. The person coming to your aid should use a fire extinguisher, water or sand to smother the flames.
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A Few Added Precautions
It is essential that every member of the family should know all means of escape in the event of fire.
Never jump from a window except as a last resort. If you cannot get out of the bedroom, tear sheets into strips, make a rope, fasten one end securely, and slide to the ground. Or, if you must jump, throw the mattress and bedding out of the window to break your fall.
Life before property is a cardinal rule.
ACCIDENTS IN THE HOME
Falls
Unaccountable as it may seem, this most easily preventable home accident heads the list. With a little forethought and care in doing away with obvious hazards, and a little less recklessness on our part, the huge toll of accidents due to bad falls could be greatly reduced. Let's take a look at our homes and see whether any of the following hazards are lurking there.
1. Floors
If floors are finished properly, they will not be slippery. Too much wax is the great oflender. A thin hard film which protects the floor is all that is necessary. If the wax smears when a piece of furniture is moved, or if footprints show, there is too much wax. Use only a small amount of wax, and if it is the type that requires polishing, rub it down to a hard finish. See page 143 for detailed directions for applying the various types of floor waxes.
Never leave objects lying in the middle of the floors.
2. Scatter Ri:gs
If you have placed a scatter rug at the head or foot of a stairway, anchor it or take it away at once. In other locations, place a pad of non-skid material under each rug, or fasten strips of thin rubber netting at least three inches wide on the edges, or paint the back of the rug with skid-proof material. The fasteners described on page 174 are also a safety measure.
3. Stairs
Hand rails are essential on all stairs, even short flights such as those leading to the back porch. All stairways should be well lighted and the lights should be controlled by switches located at the head and foot of
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the stairway. Gates or barriers should be placed at the head of the stairs when small children are on the second floor.
Never leave things on stairs or landings, with the idea of carrying them up or down later on. Some of the worst accidents are caused by tripping over such objects.
Don't go up or down stairs with your arms loaded.
Paint the top and bottom step of the stairs leading to the basement white or yellow for better visibility.
Repair stair treads that are broken or loose at once. Stair carpeting that is torn or loose is a definite hazard. Rubber treads or metal strips should be firmly tacked in place.
4. Windows, Balconies, Second Floor Porches
Be certain that screens in windows are in good repair and securely fastened. Children, and even grownups, sometimes lean against them.
All balconies and porches above the first floor should be guarded by sturdy railings.
5. Bathtubs
Every tub should be provided with a strong hand-hold to grasp when getting in or out. A second hand-hold on the wall is an additional pre- caution. Shower stalls need grasping rails also.
Make it a rule to be certain that the soap is in the soap dish before you start to get in or out of the tub.
The use of non-skid mats in bathtubs and shower stalls or on the floor beside the tub makes bathing a safer pleasure.
Never leave a small child alone in the bathtub or in the bathroom.
6. Step-Ladders vs. Chairs
When we spoke of recklessness at the beginning of the chapter, we had a vivid picture of all the makeshift arrangements used every day for climbing, in order to reach inaccessible shelves or to hang curtains or pictures.
Placing a pile of slippery magazines on a chair, which seems an easy way at the moment, may mean you'll never climb or reach for anything again.
A safe step-ladder that locks in position should be part of the equip- ment of every home. Sturdy step-stools with wide bases and broad treads are inexpensive insurance against broken bones.
Never use chairs, tables, boxes or books for climbing.
7. Sidetvall^s
Scatter ashes, sand or salt on icy walks. Remove wet leaves at once.
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A sturdy step-stool with wide bast and broad treads is good insurance against falls.
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8. Poor Lighting
There should be a wall switch at the side of every entrance to every room, so that lights can be switched on before entering. Groping through dark rooms has caused many a bad fall.
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Photograph by Patricia Hall
Turn handles of pots and pans away from the edge of the range to pre- vent accidents.
Burns and Scalds
I. Hot Liquids
Kettles filled with hot water or other liquid never should be left near the edge of any surface. It is easy to knock them ofl accidentally, with painful and sometimes serious results. Kettles, pails or tubs of hot water must never be left on the floor unguarded.
Handles of pots and pans should be turned inward when they are on top of the range or work surface, for the same reason.
Keep children out of the kitchen when you are handling hot liquids.
Use a bath thermometer for testing the temperature of bath water for a baby or an invalid. Your hand is not a safe guide.
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Scalding water in the shower or bath may cause severe burns. If the water heater operates automatically, set the control so that water from the hot-water tap is not at scalding temperature (140° F. or more). Test the temperature of bath or shower before getting in. A mixing valve on faucets and shower heads is a safety measure.
2. Steam
Steam from the teakettle spout may inflict a bad burn. Keep the spout turned inward. Take time to be careful when draining steaming foods, working near steaming kettles, or lifting off lids. Remove pot covers by lifting the far side first, so that steam will escape away from your face.
3. Hot Fats
Use a reasonably deep saucepan for deep-fat frying. and never fill it more than two-thirds full. If it has a handle, turn it toward the center of the top-stove surface, away from you. Be careful not to let any water or other liquid fall into the kettle of hot fat, or your hands or face may be burned with sputtering fat.
4. Matches
Keep matches out of reach of children.
Close the cover of "book matches" before you strike one or they may all flare at once, inflicting a painful burn or even setting your clothing on fire.
Strike all types of matches away from you.
Break used matches in two before throwing them away.
5. Other Hazards
Elsewhere we have spoken of the necessity for using a fireplace screen, and the menace of persons who smoke in bed.
Poisons
Germicides, cleaning reagents, insecticides, rat exterminators and other poisonous substances have no place in the family medicine cabinet, or in any easily accessible storage shelf. If there are children in the family, keep poisons on a high shelf, preferably under lock and key.
Label all bottles or jars containing poisonous materials "P O I S O N" in large clear letters. Make them identifiable even in the dark by large headed pins thrust into corks, or bells tied around bottle necks.
Never use insecticides or similar products when there is food around or where children and pets can get at them.
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Keep ammonia and substances for cleaning drains out of the reach of children.
Be thoroughly familiar with antidotes for poisons*; but in an emer- gency if you can't remember the antidote don't tak^e time to look^ it up. The important thing is to get rid of as much of the poison as pos- sible at once. This can be done by diluting, washing out and inducing vomiting. Make the victim drink quantities of one of the following liquids: soapsuds, salt water, baking soda water, dish water or milk. Call a doctor at once.
Strong Acids
(such as sulphuric, nitric, hydro- chloric or oxalic)
Strong Alkalies
(such as Ive, household ammonia or washing soda)
Nerve Depressing Drugs (such as "sleeping tablets" or other sedatives or opiates)
Suffocating Gases
(such as carbon monoxide or illuminating gas)
ANTIDOTE
Warm water every lo minutes. Milk or egg white or 1-2 ounces milk of niagnesia.
Warm water repeated frequently. Lemon juice or dilute vinegar or salt solution— I teaspoon in i glass of water every 10 minutes.
Induce vomiting by giving i table- spoon mustard in warm water or I teaspoon if)ecac. Repeat in 15 minutes. Artificial respiration if necessary. Apply dry heat. Black coffee. Keep patient awake and make him walk if possible.
Fresh air. Keep warm with blank- ets. Artificial respiration.
Food Poisoning
Never use a can of food if the can is bulged at either end. The bulge indicates gas formation inside the can, caused by spoilage.
Do not can meats, fish, potiltry or non-acid vegetables at home unless you use a steam-pressure cooker for processing. Fruits and tomatoes may be processed in a water bath or oven with safety.
Dry-Cleaning Hazards
If you are toying with the idea of saving money on cleaning bills by doing a little dry cleaning at home with gasoline, benzine or naphtha,
*Scc the .American Red Cross First .\id Te.xtbook for detailed information concerninj; antidotes for specific poisons that do not fall into the general grouping above.
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ASPHYXIATION — ELECTRIC SHOCK
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please spare a few minutes first to read page 89 of this book. It may save your life.
Non-flammable cleaning liquids such as carbon tetrachloride should be used only in small quantities, for spot removal (page 314)— and never for cleaning entire garments. The vapors are poisonous.
In other words, don't attempt any dry cleaning at home, ever!
Asphyxiation
Carbon monoxide is a deadly enemy to life that strikes quickly and without warning, because it has no noticeable odor. Defective pipe connections in the heating system, unvented gas heaters, space heaters other than electric, used in an unventilated room, gasoline engines, such as automobile engines, running in closed basements or garages, im- properly banked fires in ranges or furnaces (page 420), are all producers of this deadly gas.
Inspection at frequent intervals will reveal defects in pipe connections. Correct installations or a check of present installations will assure you that gas heaters are properly vented into a flue. But only you can see that rooms are adequately ventilated, that engines are not allowed to run in closed spaces, and that furnace fires are banked correctly (page 425).
Symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning are lassitude and weakness, dizziness and sometimes nausea and headache. If there is any reason for suspecting the presence of carbon monoxide when such symptoms occur, get into the fresh air at once.
Moth sprays which deposit a white frost-like film when they are sprayed on fabrics should be used in a well-ventilated room, as the fumes arc toxic.
Smoke Explosions
Painful injuries, often eye injuries, result from smoke explosions caused by improperly banked fires. Incomplete combustion and ac- cumulation of gas cause an explosion when the furnace door is opened in the morning. The same thing may happen if a fire in a coal range is not banked properly. On page 425 you will find directions for bank- ing a fire correctly and safely.
Electric Shock
The first rule in guarding against shock hazards in the home is to buy electrical equipment made by a reliable manufacturer and sold by a reputable dealer, such as your lighting company. In the long run this
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HOME SAFETY
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is true economy, for such appliances will not only give longer service, but safe service if you care for them properly, and keep them in good repair.
Remember that water conducts electricity. Never touch any electric cord or fixture while you are in the bathtub or shower or standing on a damp floor. Damp hands are dangerous— dry them thoroughly before handhng electrical equipment; you might touch an exposed part and get a shock.
Use porcelain lighting fixtures in the bathroom and laundry.
Portable electric devices such as space heaters or curling irons should be used with extreme caution in a bathroom, because water pipes and damp surfaces are excellent conductors of electricity. Built-in electric heaters are safe. If the floor is damp, or if you are touching some grounded object such as a stove, radiator, telephone, bathroom or sink fixture or pipes, don't touch an electric cord or fixture. Never touch two lamps, two switches, or a lamp and grounded metal at the same time.
Worn connecting cords are shock hazards (for repairs, see page 483). If an appliance cord sparks, have it repaired or replaced by a licensed electrician.
Old-fashioned open sockets are dangerous. Put screw-plugs into them and leave them there.
Shut off the current before you make any adjustments on electrical appliances.
Keep the laundry floor as dry as possible. As a safety measure, stand on a rubber mat or wooden rack while you work.
Cuts and Wounds
Injuries inflicted by cutting edges are all too frequent. Children's inquisitive fingers are often wounded when sharp-edged objects such as knives, scissors, razors, etc., are left within their reach.
Broken glass should be swept up carefully and emptied into a tin can. Stuff paper on top of the glass and push the top of the can down over it. Use dampened cotton batting to pick up tiny slivers safely.
Never throw discarded safety razor blades loosely into waste basket or garbage can. First put them in a closed container.
In using a knife, cut away from your hand, never toward it.
Use can openers that leave a smooth edge. Jagged edges left by old- fashioned openers can inflict a mean cut.
Wringers on washing machines have inflicted painful injuries to care- less persons. Dangling jabots, ribbons, etc., on a dress front, loose cuffs, even hair that is not pinned out of the way, may catch in the moving
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PROTECTING THE CHILDREN
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wringer with disastrous results. As you put clothes through the wringer, keep your hands at least a foot away from the rollers at all times. Modern wringers have safety releases, but presence of mind is rare when a person is suffering extreme pain. Keep children away from the wringer when the washer is connected.
Firearms
.All firearms should be unloaded, dismantled and locked in a strong chest with all ammunition. Never lean a loaded gun against a wall. Is it necessary to warn you to keep firearms out of reach of children?
Protecting the Children
Never leave small children alone in the house, even for a few minutes.
A baby's first impulse is to put any small object within reach into his mouth. Moral: Don't leave such objects lying around, and teach chil- dren old enough to understand not to put anything except food into their mouths.
Toys with sharp points or edges are taboo.
Keep electric fans on a high, solid shelf, out of the reach of children.
Place a gate or barrier at the head of the stairs when small children are on the second floor.
Children love to fly kites, and it is up to you to see that they indulge in this sport only in locations where there are no power lines nearby. A damp string leading from a kite in contact with a power line con- ducts electricity and causes shock. A still greater danger occurs when a kite becomes entangled and the child climbs a pole or tower to free it. He may come in contact with a live wire, or receive a slight shock which nevertheless startles him so that he loses his hold and falls.
Teach children never to play with electrical equipment, floor plugs or sockets.
Fireworks are discussed on page 92.
Never instill fear in your child's mind. Appeal instead to his intel- ligence and you will find ready response.
Handling of Tools for the House and Garden
Hang scythes and sickles, heads up, on a wall; never leave ihcm on the ground, or hanging in a tree. All tools not in use should be put away in racks, on shelves or hung up.
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HOME SAFETY
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Carry all cutting tools blade down. Always cut away from you in using a knife. Be very careful in using hatchets and axes.
Never use any substitute for a hammer. In driving nails, start the nail with a few light taps, then remove your hand before driving it in.
Never leave a hoe, rake or pitchfork lying or standing with the head pointing up.
First Aid
"Call the doctor" is the best advice we can give you, if an accident should occur.
Every household should have a copy of the American Red Cross First Aid Text Boof{, and should be familiar with the advice it contains concerning first aid in accidents, poisoning, etc. It will tell you- what to do until the doctor can get there. This little book costs less than a dollar at your local Red Cross Chapter.
"Prone-pressure" resuscitation* is something every one should know how to do. The Red Cross Manual explains and illustrates this pro- cedure. Learn it and practice it so that if ever it is up to you to save a life in this way; you won't be found wanting.
Enroll in a class in First Aid. You will find it worth the time and effort and it will be enjoyable too.
THE HOME MEDICINE CABINET
In all too many homes the medicine cabinet is sadly neglected. Old bottles and boxes of forgotten prescriptions are allowed to accumulate to the point of congestion. When some simple remedy is needed it cannot be found in the clutter, or perhaps it has been used and never replaced. And yet, if there is one spot in the house where order should be heaven's first law, it is in the medicine cabinet.
There are several don'ts which must be observed:
1. Don't keep dangerous poisons in the medicine cabinet.
2. Don't keep prescriptions which contain narcotics (codeine, opium or morphine) in the medicine cabinet.
:;. Don't save prescribed medicines after the need for them is over. Most drugs deteriorate with age and a prescription for a definite illness is not likly to be useful in the future.
The following materials and remedies should always be on hand. K-ecp any which are poisonous in a safe place (page 99).
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THE MEDICINE CABINET
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Medicines
Stimulant (for fainting or exhaustion) Aromatic spirits of ammonia (2 ounces) or ampules of aromatic spirits of ammonia.
Miscellaneous
Baking soda (sodium, bicarbonate)— to be used as a gargle or as a
remedy for mild indigestion ("sour stomach"). Common salt— to be used in solution as a gargle or as a dentifrice. Boric acid solution (K ounces)— to be used as an antiseptic or in mild
solution as an eye bath. Mineral oil or milk of magnesia— to be used as a mild laxative.
Disinfectants
Tincture of Iodine (POISON— see page 99)— for minor cuts. Paint on with cotton wrapped around toothpick or glass rod on bottle top. Do not bandage over iodine.
Boric acid powder (2 ounces), or in solution as above.
Rubbing alcohol (POISON— see page 99)— to be used only if recom- mended by the physician in charge.
Hydrogen Peroxide— use diluted with an equal amount of water as a cleansing wash for wounds. Use i part hydrogen ^Kroxide with- 3 parts water as a gargle.
Ointments V.ascline U.S.P. (i tube)— for skin abrasions, chafing or sunburn. Antiseptic emollient (i tube)— for superficial burns. Boric acid ointment (1 tube)— for skin abrasions.
First Aid Materials
3-inch sterile gauze squares (several).
Bandage (i package, 2 inches wide, sealed).
Absorbent cotton (sterile).
Safety pins.
Blunt scissors.
Sterile finger dressings (i package).
Sterile compress dressings for small curs (i package).
4\dhesivc tape (1 roll, 1 inch wide).
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MISCELLANEOUS NECESSITIES
Flashlight.
Clinical thermometer with case, or preferably two, one for taking tem- perature by mouth and one for temperature by rectum. If only one is kept on hand, a rectal thermometer is preferable because it is sometimes impossible to take a patient's temperature by mouth.
Wooden toothpicks (i box).
Teaspoon, measuring.
Medicine glass (graduated).
Medicine dropper.
Eye cup.
Drinking glass.
There are certain articles which are often needed in case of illness, but which are too large to be kept in the medicine cabinet. These things should be stored in a specific place where they can be found quickly in case of need: Heating pad or hot-water bottle .{do not apply heat unless the doctor
prescribes it, particularly in cases of oibdominal pain). Ice bag. Fountain syringe (2-quart capacity) with several nozzles of assorted
sizes. Bed pan
Atomizer for spraying nose and throat. Clean, soft linen and cotton cloth. Squares of soft flannel. Rubber sheet.
Headache remedies, laxatives and other proprietary medicines should not be used unless the doctor orders them. There have been serious results from overdoses of such remedies. Self-dosing is never recom- mended. A laxatiue should never be ta\en in cases of abdominal pain.
Now that we have checked the necessary items, what have you found besides these things, in your own medicine cabinet? Unlabelled bottles of medicine? Old prescriptions? Cosmetics? Empty bottles and boxes? Poisonous substances? Then have a general clearing out and restocking, and make a monthly check-up as part of your work schedule.
IF YOU MUST BE A NURSE
Most of us are habitual optimists, and as such we rarely plan ahead for illness, so that when it descends on some one in our family, we are quite unprepared.
Unless the illness is serious enough for hospitalization or the services
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HOME NURSING
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of a nurse, the homemaker must assume the considerable burden of caring for the patient.*
Disruption of the household and ovcr-faiigue need not result if we know some of the rules— rules which help us to face illness with the calm- resourcefulness so necessiiry and so seldom found.
System and" orderly procedure make caring for a sick person less of a burden. The doctor's orders and directions should be outlined in chart form. On this chart the proper time for giving each treatment or medicine is indicated. If the chart is checked each time medicine or treatment is given, it will be a valuable record for the doctor. House- work can be planned with the chart in mind. An alarm clock or timing clock will remind you when it is time for another dose of medicine.
When there is illness in the home, it will probably be necessary to get up about a half hour earlier than usual, so that the patient can be made comfortable and have his breakfast before the rest of the family.
After breakfast, the patient usually likes to rest or read before being made ready for the day. During this time the homemaker can take care of several pressing household duties such as menu planning, order- ing, and putting the rooms in order.
Then the patient's -room can be tidied, the patient given his bath and settled with whatever books, games or amusements are permitted. If he is well enough to enjoy a radio, be sure it is placed where it is easy for him to turn the controls.
If fruit juices are prescribed by the doctor, be sure that they are fresh and cold. If a generous supply is left at the bedside for "ad lib." drink- ing, set a container or bowl of ice cubes nearby so that the patient can add them to each glass of fruit juice. A wide-mouthed vacuum bottle will keep ice cubes from melting for a long time.
A bedside table or reading rack is essential to -the comfort of the patient. A bell within easy reach gives him the comfort of knowing that you can be summoned should he need anything.
The patient should have his lunch before the rest of the family is served. Afterward, while he is occupied with a visitor, or is taking a nap, you may take a well-earned, rest.
A late afternoon freshening up should be part of the patient's sched- ule, for at this time he is usually weary. A soothing alcohol rul>, if pre- scribed, a reviving toilette, and a straightening up of the bed and room do much for morale. And morale is important in getting well quickly.
•In every houschnkl there should be a copy of the book called Home Hygiene and Care of the Sick, which has been prepared and is sold by the American Red Cross at IfKal headquarters. This book is an excellent reference for any woman who suddenly must act as a nurse. If possible, enroll in a class in Home Hy>jicne and Care of the Sick.
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After supper, quiet is essential to the patient's welfare, and only soothing visitors should be permitted.
A refreshing wash before bedtime, and a final straightening of the bed, makes the patient comfortable, and after this is done he should be left quietly alone.
Administration of Medicine
Before we leave this subject, there are a few points concerning the administration of medicine which must be remembered :
1. Give medicine only in compliance with the doctor's orders, in the amount and at the time prescribed by him.
2. When measuring medicine, keep your mind fixed on what you are doing.
3. Follow this routine rigidly every time:
(a) Read the label on the bottle.
(b) Shake the bottle if the medicine is liquid, in order to mix the contents thoroughly.
(c) Remove the cork and place it upside down on table or shelf to keep it clean.
(d) Hold the medicine glass on a level with the eyes, and hold the bottle label uppermost to avoid soiling the label.
(<?) Pour out the dose, measuring exactly. (/) Wipe the bottle with clean facial tissues. (g) Replace the cork.
(h) Read the label on the bottle again, before giving the patient the medicine.
4. Pills and capsules should be presented to the patient on a saucer or in a teaspoon, never with your fingers.
5. Acids and medicine containing iron should be taken through a glass tube kept for this purpose exclusively.
6. Wash tubes and glasses at once after use and return them to their place in the medicine cabinet.
7. If a dose of medicine is omitted for any reason, give the regular dose at the next regular time. Never increase the dose.
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CHAPTER X
HOUSEHOLD EMPLOYEES
If you do all your own housework, or if your household employee is a "perfect jewel," if she cleans with an eye to the corners, cooks with economy and to the king's taste, is good with the children, and gen- erally keeps the machinery of the household well oiled and running smcjothly, the chances are that you have no need to read this chapter. And if she has been with you more than two years, and seems happy about the whole thing, you can defer your reading until she is lured away by wedding bells or inherited money.
Hut the truth is that such jewels are not born, but made. They almost always come to you in the rough, and must be cut and polished before they achieve real value. Polishing takes expert knowledge and plenty of time, patience and understanding. But the finished product is worth it, providing you have selected the rough gem with care.
Thus the recipe for success, to change the metaphor abruptly, begins like the old reci[:)c for rabbit stew: "First catch your rabbit." If you think this is easy, you are quite wrong, because it is still much more difficult to get— and keep— a really good household employee than it is to hire and retain a satisfactory employee in almost any other field. This is unhappily true even in times when there is a countrywide condition of unemployment.
Present Problems
The market for household employees is one of the biggest labor markets m the world, but it is unorganized, unstandardized and has the highest turnover that exists in any field today. A turnover as great as this is wasteful in any system of economy— wasteful for the employer, for the employee and for society as a whole. It can be blamed on four conditions: overwork, underpay, poor living conditions and social stigma. Unpleasant as it is, we must admit thai all these conditions are directly or indirectly attributable to us as employers.
It won't do any harm to look for a moment at the picture as it exists today in this country. The iq^o census showed that nearly 2,327,000 workers were in household employment. Women constituted qo.7 per cent of all household employees. Working hours range as high as 70-80
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HOUSEHOLD EMPLOYEES
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per week. The principle of clear-cut limited hours is scarcely yet rec- ognized in this field, yet in many states there is a law which limits women's work in factory or store to a 44- or a 40-hour week. Wages for household employees are higher in large cities and industrial areas than they are in towns and smaller cities, but on the whole the outlook is a shocking one. A countr)'-wide survey made by the U. S. Bureau of Employment Security in January, 1937, while resulting in rough figures only, showed that weekly wages for general workers "living in" averaged from S2.57 to S8.35. The lowest wages were paid in certain southeastern states and the highest in some of the New England states, in New York and on the west coast.
Generally speaking, wage and hour laws do not apply to domestic employees, but Wisconsin sets a minimum wage and the state of Washington a maximum of 60 hours. No social security is provided at present nor are household employees protected by workmen's com- pensation. Trade-union organization has made almost no headway in this field. Whatever bargaining power exists between ah employment agency and an employee is almost wholly on the side of the agency. The other side of the picture shows that many families with an income of $3000 and over employ household help, whereas few families with smaller incomes can afford to do so.
Solutions
Public-spirited organizations that are giving most of their time and thought to the problems connected with an adequate supply of com- petent and stable household employees all agree on certain general aspects. They realize that homemakers need helpers and that it is socially important that homes should have competent and reliable workers, as must the office, the store and the factory. In addition, there is a large labor supply of women who need and are seeking jobs. However, these women want and should have jobs that have a better economic and social status, and better living and working conditions than the average household employee has today. To attract the best kind of young women to work in our homes, household employment must be reorganized so that it offers inducement to both young men and young women to take training and become efficient in a vocation that offers both material gain and personal satisfaction. Since any reasonable person can understand this point of view, it is not hard to see why those who have studied the problem thoroughly feel that the first step in securing efficient well-trained household help is to make the household job more attractive and desirable.
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WHAT IS WRONG WITH CONDITIONS
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Reports that come to interested groups from girls who leave house- keeping jobs show clearly why household employment is unpopular. Wages are not paid regularly or on time. Girls who have made plans tor their time off are told summarily at the last minute they will have to change their day to suit their employer's convenience. Long hours of overtime frcc|ucntly have no compensation in cither extra wages or equal time otT on another day. Women who are good cooks and good with children may hear no praise for their virtues but much blame because they do not clean well.
InsulHcicnt food is a too frequent cause for complaint. When the parents are dining out, crackers, soup and fruit for the evening meal with the small children are frequently thought to be enough for the girl who has worked hard all day. In many homes the employee is e.xpected to share a room with a child. At the end of her working day she has no place to sit or read or visit with her friends.
That many conditions and attitudes must be changed if household employment is to become an attractive and dignified occupation, has been recognized for some time by a rapidly increasing and expanding number of persons throughout the United States. In 1928 the Women's Bureau of the United States Department of Agriculture, the National Board of the Young Women's Christian Association, and certain private organizations called a conference in Washington to discuss how house- hold employment could be improved as an occupation for women. Out of this conference there developed the National Council on Household Employment which has drawn up Proposals for a Voluntary Agree- ment in Household Employment, which are given here in part:
Worf^ing Agreenient: A definite written agreement between em- ployer and employee should be made at the time of employment. It may be signed or unsigned and should be subject to periodic review to meet changing conditions. Such an agreement is based on the fol- lowing considerations.
Duties: Regular duties shall be clearly defined, based on an analysis of the job to be done within the hour limit agreed upon. A high stand- ard of work shall be expected in return for good wages and satisfactory working conditions.
Hours: I. Actual wording hours shall be defined as hours of duty during which the employee is not free to follow her own pursuits.
2. Total actual u'orl{ing hours shall not exceed 60 hours within the week. A schedule of less than 60 hours is desirable.
Ill
HOUSEHOLD EMPLOYEES
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3. Time on call is that time when the employee is not free to leave the house, but may rest or follow her own pursuits, being available for emergencies. Two hours on call shall be equivalent to one hour of working time. Overtime may be adjusted by extra time off or extra payment on a per hour basis. Frequent overtime should be avoided.
4. Time off shall include two part-time days each week be- ginning not later than 2 p.m. on weekdays and immediately after the midday meal on Sundays, or one whole day each week, or its equivalent. In the 60-hour week some evenings will be free. Four out of eight holidays shall be given during the year and some adjustment made for church attendance. Free time shall be defined as hours when the em- ployee is free from all responsibility to the employer. Meal time cannot be considered an employee's free time if the telephone must be an- swered.
Vacation: One week with pay shall be given after one year of service, two weeks with pay after the second year.
Termination of Services: Notice of one week or one week's pay shall be given on termination of service by the employer— one week's notice by the employee.
Wages: For full-time employment the scale of wages will range from the minimum wage for the unskilled worker with a rising scale for increasing skill and experience. We (The National Council on House- hold Employment) urge fair and adequate wages based on the local Community Council on Household Employment wage scale or com- parable to that paid in the local industries. Payment should be made weekly or biweekly on the day due. If the employee wishes a monthly wage, 4^^ weeks should be calculated as one month.
Living Conditions: Comfortable living conditions include: (i) ade- quate food; (2) private room or one shared by another employee if necessary; (3) access to bath; (4) adequate heat and light; (5) a place to entertain friends.
The National Council also urges that local councils on household employment shall be organized and that these councils experiment with and include in their community-wide agreement the following:
1. Health certificates for employees in line with state laws for workers handling food.
2. Benefits of accident compensation to employee and employer and the relation of accident insurance to the state system of industrial accident compensation.
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ESTABLISHINC; BFTTHR CONDITIONS
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3. Sick leave.
4, Good equipment as a lime saver, and chosen in relation to skill ot workers.
As a result oi these recommendations made by the National Council on Household Employment ard other developments, local community councils are developing rapidly ni many communities throughout the United States and all wide-awake women are affiliating with these groups and helping in this nation-wide movement to improve this im- [lortant industry. These groups are developing along at least four dilTerent lines:
1. A training school for domestic employees.
2. A placement service for graduates.
3. A consultation service for employers, covering all types of household problems.
4. Discussion groups for members.
As the business executive of an im[K)rtant industry, you will want to strengthen this industry in your community by joining your local council, or organizing one if there is none yet developed.
Briefly, then, the responsibilities of employers in establishing better conditions in this particular labor market are: (1) to raise the status of a domestic employee to a position of dignity through decent wages, shorter hours and better working and living conditions, and (2) to establish a better relationship between employer and employee by raising the employee's morale through sympathetic guidance, apprecia- tion of work well done, and dignified and courteous treatment at all times, and (3) to maintain a smoothly run household through careful planning and explanation of work to be done.
On the other hand, the em[>loyer has the right to expect a good re- turn on her investment, and she should have a clear picture of what is to be expected from the superior employee.
The first step in engaging an employee is to recognize that even the best will not do all jobs equally well in the beginning, and to decide which jobs you feel are the most important in your home. Perhaps clean corners matter more to you than skillful cooking. Perhaps a "superb little dinner " competently served will make up for dust curls under the davenport. Perhaps you need above all other considerations, intelligent supervision of your children. If you can alTord only one helper, select her according to her ability and training in the things that matter most to you. You can take over some of the other respon- sibilities yourself and train her to do the rest as you wish it done.
"3
HOUSEHOLD EMPLOYEES
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Choosing a Household Employee
There are several ways to secure household employees. Of course you will want to interview a number of applicants so that your choice will not be limited. Keep in mind the fact that the placement of any type of worker has become a highly specialized service carried on by trained experts. You may wish to take advantage of a service of this kind, although you may prefer to choose your own employee.
First Source: When your husband needs a new stenographer, he may call a good business school and ask if there are any qualified graduates available. It is now possible for household employers who are busy to call a training school for household employees and ask if qualified grad- uates are available. The training school usually arranges for the em- ployer to interview several of its students at the school and helps to make the selection. The school also will help the homemaker to plan and schedule her work so that the principle of limited hours can be maintained in this field as it is in business. Training schools conducted by the Young Women's Christian Association and Boards of Educa- tion are extremely helpful as are those conducted by the Work Projects Administration and National Youth Administration.
Second Source: In every large community there is a branch of the state employment office which is making every effort to find jobs for qualified workers, and to find workers for desirable jobs. This office will be glad to take your order for a household employee. You will be asked many questions about the job you want done, but remember that this is done in order to fill your needs satisfactorily. If you wish a young woman under eighteen, the Junior Employment Service will send a representative into your home to help you understand the needs of the girl who will remain under their supervision. You will find such representatives very helpful.
Third Source: There are a great many private agencies under the Young Women's Christian Association and similar organizations. There are also commercial agencies some of which are thoroughly re- liable and successful. There are other commercial agencies which charge high fees to both the employer and the employee. It is necessary to discriminate among the-^e different agencies.
Fourth Source: Many employers find excellent household employees through personal contacts. Your postman or your grocer knows your community well and often understands your needs. There may be a household employee next door who has a sister or a friend looking for a job. Such personal contacts often afford the easiest and happiest way if) pick out new employees, especially if you yourself know what you
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INTERVIEWING THE EMPLOYEE
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want and understand how to select the employee who will best fit into your household.
Fifth Source: Newspaper adi'ertisements are a frequent source used for finding household employees— either by watching the advertise- ments put in by workers looking for a job or by inserting an advertise- ment of your own in a local paper.
A newspaper ad should be worded carefully to give a picture of the job you have to offer, if it is to attract the kind of employee you desire. For example: "General houseworker, full time, live in. Business couple, I child nursery school mornings, 5-room bungalow, plain cooking, heavy laundry sent out, private room. Telephone Bayville 7089 for appointment." By indicating the size of the family and of the house, the kind of cooking and laundry work required, whether the job is "live in" or not and if so whether the employee will have her own room, you will be saved the annoyance of interviewing applicants look- ing for another type of job.
You can save yourself time and the applicant carfare by a first inter- view on the phone. Find out the applicant's main qualifications, her experience and something of her references. If these seem satisfactory, arrange a time for a personal interview. Give her directions for reach- ing your home. It will be wise for you and only fair to the applicants to keep the position open until you have seen all with whom you have made appointments.
The employer should make the personal interview an informal and friendly chat. The applicant should be comfortably seated. During the interview the employer should learn about the applicant:
1. Her name, nationality, address and telephone number.
2. Her interest and abilities in the jobs you have decided are most important.
3. Her general attitude toward household employment.
4. Where she worked formerly, her attitude toward her former em- ployer, references.*
5. Her general health, whether she is susceptible to colds or other recurrent illness, and whether she is willing to have a health ex- amination made by a reputable, well-known physician of her own choice at your expense.
6. The hours she keeps.
•Never take references at their face value, but always check them as carefully a"; possible.
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7. Her personal characteristics, judged by general conversation nov related to the job and concerned with: Outside interests
How long she has lived in vicinity Church affiliation Responsibility toward her family Capacity for constructive contact with children Disposition Manner of speaking
It is only fair that you should give the applicant the following in- formation :
1. Size of house and family. (It is wise to have children and applicant meet and to show applicant through the house.)
2. Profession of employer, general home life, religion.
3. Type of work to be done and kind of equipment to do it with. Whether uniforms are provided or not. Schedule of work and responsibility expected of employee.
4. Hours required (daily and weekly), time ofif, overtime, special ad- justments for holidays, time for church, etc., and vacations.
5. Wages— whether maximum is paid or an increase cart be expected. Day or date on which payments will be made.
6. Rules on use of telephone and entertainment of friends.
7. Whether job is permanent or temporary. (Employer and employee should agree on a trial period.)
8. Status of employee in the home.
9. If employee is to live in, show her her toilet and bathing facilities and explain types of meals. These are all part of her pay.
When you have decided on the employee who best meets your needs and have checked her references, it is time to draw up an informal working agreement in writing which may be signed by both of you before she is employed (page iii). One such agreement which has proved successful in the home of a business couple with one child, is given here:
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THE INF.ORMAL WORKING AGREEMENT
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A Sample Working Agreement Between Household Employer and Employee
Stcitus of Employee in the Home. We consider your job of utmost im[>ortance to the happiness and welfare of our family. You will be given the same courtesy and respect that an olHce employee has in her job.
Duties. Your duties will be limited to cooking, serving, cleaning, light laundry, care of the child, answering the door and telephone. No heavy laundry is required. The care of the child will be your first duty when she is out of school and the parents are not at home. You will have no responsibility for her when the parents are at home.
Hours. You may have every Thursday oflf after i v.\i. until the fol- lowing morning and every Sunday after 3 p.m. If at any time it is neces- sary to request you to stay on duty on Thursday or Sunday afternoon you will be given equivalent free time on another day or paid extra for that time. You will be expected to stay in two evenings a week with the child when we are out, but you may entertain friends quietly on those occasions.
Breakfast is served every morning at o'clock.
Lunch is served for the child at o'clock.
Dinner is served every evening at o'clock.
You will be free in the evenings after the dinner dishes are done.
We shall work out a household schedule so that you may have some free time for yourself in the early afternoon.
Vacation. One week with pay shall be given you after one year of service, two weeks with pay after the second year.
Termination of Service. Notice of one week or one week's pay shall be given on termination of service. We request you to give us one week's notice if you wish to leave.
Wages. Wages totalling $ per month will be paid in 2 install-
ments on the I St and 15th of every month.
Uniforms. We furnish uniforms because they give greater dignity to your {X)sition. Those with short sleeves are worn during the day and those with long sleeves for serving dinner. Time for laundering uniforms is included in your work schedule.
Personal Appearance. Neat uniforms, clean fingernails, tidy hair and well cared for shoes and hose make you as well groomed as the woman in the office. We expect you to maintain these standards.
Your Room. We have tried to make your own room attractive and comfortable, and your privacy in it will be respected. It must be given the same routine daily and weekly care that you give the rest of the
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house. Time for this work is provided for in the housework schedule.
Entertaining Friends. You may entertain your women friends in your room. If you wish to entertain a beau, we can make satisfactory arrangements if you will tell me in advance.
HoHseworl^ Schedule. After you have become used to the house- hold we will make out a housework schedule together so that we shall both have a clear idea of what can be accomplished each day.
Criticism. Since no two people do things exactly alike, there may be times when we shall request you to do something differently from the way some one else has wanted you to do it. On the other hand, if you have suggestions about changes that seem desirable to you, we shall be glad to discuss them with you.
The suggestions of the National Council on Household Employment for a voluntary working agreement between employer and employee may be secured by writing to that organization in Haverford, Pa.
Schedules Again
Clearly and briefly worded work schedules worked out jointly by employer and employee are an invaluable help in maintaining a well- run home. Written schedules are best. However, any schedule that is too complicated, too rigid or too demanding will never be successful, particularly if the employee is expected to take care of the children in addition to her other work. Neither will a schedule work if the em- ployer or members of the family are in the habit of constantly inter- rupting it with other demands. And it is certainly unfair to find extra work for an employee who is able to get through her schedule with a little time left over, if she does the work well.
No one schedule can fit every home. The size of the house, the kind of furnishings, the number and ages of the family members, their interests and activities, and the amount of help, either from family members, from hired help or outside servants, all have to be considered in any work plan that can be made. The schedule for your own home must be worked out according to prevailing conditions.
An exchange of work is sometimes made between homemaker and helper, when special plans may be facilitated in this way. When a broad outline is used in partnership with detailed directions for jobs to be done, such as those on pages 230-254, the results are usually most satisfactory, particularly if the homemaker has spent enough time with the employee in the beginning, showing her how each type of work is most easily and tpickly done, and acquainting her with the equip- ment for cleaning, cooking, laundering, etc., which is available.
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TRAINING THE NEW EMPLOYEE
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Training Period
During this phase you are the teacher and it is a good idea to re- member that successful teachers are fair-minded, patient, courteous, cordial, friendly but not familiar, and never given to indiscriminate scolding, spoiling or overindulgence. They themselves are not free to indulge in displays of nerves or temper. They administer any justified reprimands cjuictly and in private. They encourage their pupils and show their appreciation of good work. And naturally they know how to do the work they expect their pupils to do, and can demonstrate by doing it, as well as explaining it clearly. They know that the battle is half won if they can create a desire for knowledge, and they realize the value of patient repetition in teaching— especially by showing, not by saying. The homemaker who can meet these standards is not the homemaker who wrings her hands and wails over "the servant prob- lem."
In addition to knowing how to do a job, you should know approxi- mately how long it takes or it will not be possible to plan a reasonable work schedule for your employee. Then, too, you must make allowance for the probability that she may not be able, at first, to accomphsh each job as rapidly as you can, because of lack of practice and unfamiliarity with your equipment. Also, different people work at different speeds.
On the first few days of her new job you should plan to stay at home. A new girl adjusts more quickly to your household if you are there to answer questions. Show her where things are kept, watch the way she does her work (as unobtrusively as possible), give her any necessary instructions (but beware of an overdose), and make a list of the jobs in which she shows lack of training. Set the time for a regular daily conference in which plans are made together, and problems concerning the management of the home are discussed. Never omit this conference.
Preface all criticism with praise for something she has done right. The training school and employment managers are unanimous in warning employers to be more careful about criticism. Many women, they say, who are the soul of tact with their families and friends, seem to think it is an unnecessary requirement in relations with the house- hold employee. Don't criticize the souffle during dinner or rush out immediately after and tell her bluntly that it was awful. Go to the kitchen after dinner and tell her that the dinner was very nice, but you think the soufHc needed a little lower temperature.
From this point on, training should progress gradually, taking first things first in their order of importance to you, until the polishing process is complete, and you have a "perfect jewel" of your own. Never
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relax standards, maintain the friendly dignity of the employer-employee relationship and never discuss your personal problems.
Cooking as You Like It
Since cooking plays such a large part in general housework, a dis- cussion of training in this art deserves considerable space. The follow- ing eight points cover the field adequately:
1. Teach your employee the 5 points that make good cooking easy: {a) Use tested recipes.
{h) Read them carefully,
(c) Measure ingredients accurately.
{ci) Control the temperature.
{e) Watch the time.
2. Consider the girl's education. How well does she read? This sounds simple, but her days in school may have been short. Have her read a recipe, then tell you what ingredients she'll need, what temperature is required and how long the product will cook. In this way you'll learn how much- help she needs in understanding a new recipe and you can also point out to her important features of a recipe to be considered before starting to follow it.
Check her arithmetic. If the roast weighs 4 pounds and should cook 20 minutes per pound, how long will it be in the oven? And how do you figure 80 minutes by the clock ? If dinner is to be served at 7, what time will she put it in? If these problems are complicated for her you'll need to leave written instructions on these points in the kitchen ever\ day until she learns. Be kind, go slow, and keep your sense of humor.
3. Giue her efficient equipment. Be sure that the recipes you give her are reliable. Make one cook book or one recipe file her standard. How is your measuring equipment? Fats and liquids are easily meas- ured in glass measuring cups. Measuring cups marked off clearly for fractional parts simplify the measurement of dry ingredients. Measur- ing spoons that are clipped together save searching through the kitchen drawer for the right one.
Modern ovens have temperature controls. If you've any doubt of the accuracy of yours, the home service department of the gas or electric company will be glad to check it for you. Oven thermometers can bo purchased for use in any oven without an automatic heat control. Meat
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thermometers are the most accurate means of getting the proper degree \)i donencss in meats. Thermometers for deep fat frying and sugar cookery are added insurance against failures for the amateur cook.
Kitchen clocks range from ordinary alarm clocks to those that are a part of the very modern stove. Have your employee understand that in cooking clock-watching very definitely is a part of the job.
Do your pots and pans fit your recipes? Neither you nor your em- ployee is encouraged by a thin flat cake baked in a pan too large tor it. A small quantity of food cooked in the bottom of a large pan is quickly burned, while too much food in a pan too small may boil over.
4. Put time and ternpa-ature charts up on the kitchen trail. Excellent charts are available that give the time and temperature necessary for the proper cooking of dillerent foodstufTs. Another one shows whether a vegetable is best cooked with much or little water, whether the pan should be covered or uncovered, and the approximate time needed to develop the flavor without losing the precious vitamins and minerals. Put these up by the kitchen stove in an easy to read location. But re- member that tabulated figures are hard to read and that the employee may be slower at reading than you are. Proportion charts for making white sauces, cooked breakfast cereals, and your favorite salad dressings can be copied from the cook book on your typewriter and pasted inside the door of the cupboard where ingredients for these recipes are stored.
5. Build the girl's confidence in herself. With efficient equipment and reliable sign fwsts, the next step is to establish her confidence in using and following them.
Start her on simple tasks first. As she succeeds in these, her confi- dence will grow.
Do you cut string beans and carrots crosswise or do you like your carrots in thin strips and your beans Frenched? Show her how to clean and cut vegetables to suit you, then tyjx the directions on cards and give them to her.
Salad arrangements are easy but important. Teach her these antl how to make your favorite dressings and then make salads her respon- sibility entirely. Cooking vegetables and cereals might come next, then meats and simple desserts.
.\ little praise goes a long way, a lot works wonders, and words from masculine lips help especially. But be sincere— don't overdo it.
(). Ma^e generous use of partly prepared foods on the market. Bis- cuits, pie crust, gingerbread, cakes, puddings and frozen dessert mix-
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tures are practically fool-proof and in honest truth many of them are just as good as— we dare not say better than— mother used to make. Using them gives the employee practice in manipulation and a "feel" for the proper texture of the different products before cooking. It's that "feel" of the dough or batter that has been the guide of many cooks to perfect products for ages.
7. Help her plan time and order of wor\ for each meal. After she is fairly confident about following separate recipes, getting everything in a meal ready to serve at the same time is the inexperienced cook's greatest trial. If you sit down with the girl and plan the order of work with her for a few meals, she will speedily lose her fear of a last-minute flurry.
While you are giving her this help, you can emphasize the impor- tance of assem.bling all the foods and equipment needed for any one recipe before starting to follow it. Again, show her what you mean.
Getting food ingredients together before she starts measuring elim- inates any chance of leaving one essential out— baking powder out of a cake, for instance. Having the equipment at hand insures smooth procedure in combining ingredients properly. If she learns to stack utensils and wipe off her work surfaces as she finishes each job, her kitchen will keep a semblance of order which makes last-minute serv- ing tasks much easier.
8. Give her everyday practice on company menus. One plan for the untrained cook is to get her to perfect herself in three dinner menus, labelling them A, B and C. By the time a guest has been entertained three times, weeks have elapsed since he has eaten dinner A. You can count on his having forgotten it and serve it again!
If your employee is well schooled in Dinners A, B and C, you can entertain your guests in the living room, quite happily secure in the knowledge that things will run smoothly in the kitchen. Your un- ruflled calm will be the envy of your friends who have not learned to teach their employees to take the full responsibility of meal preparation and service.
Teaching Her to Serve
Fine table service is appreciated equally by the employer and em- ployee. Serving courses are the most popular ones in the household training schools and many homemakers measure an employee's train- ing by the skill with which she serves a meal.
In the one-employee household, especially where there are children,
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serving should be reduced to its easiest terms. Simple menus, correctly served, are more satisfactory than elaborate dinners served by an ob- viously Hustered worker.
Learning to serve even in the simplest manner, however, is not easy for the completely untrained girl. Homemaking teachers say that it is hard to teach girls to serve quickly, quietly and without waste mo- tion. Deft service requires good muscular coordination and, like expert dancing, swimming, tennis and golf, is achieved only by practicing the right methods over and over. If your employee has had any experience or training at all in serving, let her serve her first meal the way that she is accustomed to doing it. You may want to request changes. Make mental notes of your corrections but don't give them to her until after dinner. Then go into the kitchen with a word of praise for food or service before you make your criticisms.
If she has never had any experience in serving, you may be wise to have a rehearsal with just you two. Set the table, for one. Tell her how you want food served and show her. Then sit down at the place and let her practice serving you. Keep your everyday service as nearly as {K)ssible what you expect for company. Daily practice will make her serene and sure when you have guests.
One woman of our acquaintance keeps a diagram of the place-settings for each course pasted on the kitchen side of the dining rocjm door. It is always in plain sight as reference and reminder. The same woman has photographs from magazines pasted on recipe file cards which show the employee exactly how a breakfast tray, tea table and after- dinner cofTee service should look.
Written instructions help some girls; others find them formidable, ^'ou'll have to judge your employee.
While teaching her service, be sure to impress her with the great importance of having the children's food look attractive when it is set before them. When one sees the sloppy, careless kitchen service some children endure, one does not wonder why they become feeding problems.
Teaching Her to Clean
Some women are orderly housekeepers but never get into the corners or worry about special care of woodwork and windows, armchairs and andirons. Others are so vigorous about cleaning things that they keep their houses in a fine state of disorder all the time. Obviously the happy medium is desirable but your employee may go to one extreme while you lean toward the other. You'll have to decide what your cleaning
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Standards arc. Then estimate the amount of time it takes to do each job, and remember that the employee may not do it as fast as you would yourself. Then you'll have some idea how much total time it takes to do the cleaning you require. Ask the girl to time herself and let you know whether she needs more or less time.
If she is quick, be careful not to penalize her by adding more work. Rather let her have that extra time for herself. Such consideration on your part will pay better dividends in her attitude toward her job than the extra work would be worth.
As in teaching her to cook and to launder, you'll get best results by showing her how you want things done if her own way does not suit you. Here again typewritten instructions are important.
The use of your particular kind of vacuum cleaner is most important. One business woman of our acquaintance gave her employee a new cleaner without a word of explanation. Two weeks later she thought to ask the girl how she liked the cleaner, Lydia's doubtful comment was, "Well, it shore do stir up the dust." Investigation revealed that the cleaner had been used without the bag attached!
Any girl will save time and do a more thorough cleaning job if she learns how to handle your cleaner and its attachments skillfully.
Sewing
Not much sewing should be expected of the general houseworker. This falls in the realm of personal service, and not housework. In an emergency, a button may be sewed on or a ripped seam mended, but if you insist on a great deal of sewing it is only fair that you take over other tasks of cleaning, cooking or laundering. If the employee is especially skilled in sewing such an exchange may be desirable.
Teaching Her to Launder
Any employment agency will tell you that it is usually easier to get and keep a household employee if you send your laundry out, or have a laundress come in. Some employees, however, are expert laundresses who have entered housework to get more steady employment. Experi- enced homemakers will tell you that if the employee does the washing and ironing, the homemaker must assume a major share of the other housekeeping jobs on laundry days.
In most homes there is light laundry to do occasionally. If you pro- vide the proper mild soap for your fine lingerie and other silks, rayons and woolens, you'll be sure that the soap won't harm them. Then
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you'll want to be sure that your employee knows the proper lemjiera- ture of the water for these fabrics (better buy her a thermometer), the proper methods of squeezing suds gently through them instead of too vigorous rubbing and wringing, the standards for proper rinsing and when to roll in a towel and when to hang things out to dry. She must understand the thermostat dial on your iron so that after fabrics have been washed carefully they will not be ruined in the ironing.
The only way to teach her these things is to go through the process with her, show her what you mean and then give her simple type- written instructions to follow on later occasions. Don't expect her to remember too much.
Clothes last longer and come cleaner if the laundress understands the use of difTcrcnt kinds of soap, when and what to blue and bleach, the effect of diflerent tem[>eratures of water and iron upon difTerent kinds of fabrics. You will find detailed directions for washing and ironing on pages 26i-:5()5, and with this help it should be easy to show your employee the right way to launder clothes.
Teaching Her Child Care
If care of your children is to be an im[X)rtant part of your maid's duties, you will want her to have good health, a good disposition, ability to meet emergencies without going to pieces, and a willingness to co- operate with your ideas of discipline.
The only way to be sure of her health is to. ask her to have a physical examination made by a reputable well-known doctor of her own choos- ing, and to pay for it yourself.
Her disposition may depend upon you. Underpaid, underappreciated and overworked employees will not be happy ones and may vent their frustration on your children.
Children very quickly reflect the attitude of the rest of the family toward an employee. If her discipline is to be effective, they must under- stand that she is a person of some consequence. Cive the employee a working idea of your methods of discipline and never disagree with her about her methods in front of the child. Have a conference later when the child is not present.
Employees whose emotion.d make-up is such th.it thev go to pieces in a crisis mav do much harm in frightening young children when calm reassurance is rccjuired. If she isn't able to overcome this fault, on the next occasion you'd better look for a more emotioiiallv stable employee.
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If your employee assumes most of the responsibility for the children don't expect too much else of her. She can't do everything. Careful research has determined that baby care with approved modern routine requires from 5 to 7 hours daily. The needs of pre-school children past the year-old mark are so unpredictable that it is almost impossible, as you yourself know, to follow a housekeeping schedule very closely.
If your employee is to assume care of a baby and has not had ex- perience before, you'll be wise to take her with you on your regular visits to the pediatrician. She'll feel her responsibility for carrying out the doctor's instructions more keenly if she hears him give them. Gov- ernment bulletins on infant care will be of much help to her.
Miscellaneous Problems
Should a household employee be allowed to smoke? During her rest hours, hours off duty and in her own room, yes. In the kitchen or on duty, no. If the helper does not "live in," a place should be pro- vided for her to change her clothes, rest and smoke if she wishes to do so.
Is it unser to employ a young girl or an older woman? This depends on you. Experience has proved that in general an older woman is more dependable and responsible, but usually likes to do things her own way and resents schedules, while a young girl must be trained by you at considerable cost in time, but will be agreeable about learning to do things your way. Beaux must be expected and it is only fair to provide a place where they may be entertained, with your express per- mission in advance each time.
How many uniforms are necessary? If you expect your employee to be well groomed at all times, she should be provided with four cotton uniforms for morning wear and at least two long-sleeved uniforms of silk, rayon or cotton broadcloth for afternoon wear and serving. A sheer apron, collars and cuffs and cap are worn with the long-sleeved uniform. In fairness to her, the uniforms should be well styled and comfortable. Low-heeled, comfortable shoes in good repair are re- quired, at her expense, but the employer provides the uniforms.
Part-Time Help
Many women seem to think that unless they hire help for at least a half-day it isn't worth while, either to them or the person employed. Yet the wise use of occasional help can provide a safety margin between normal housework fatigue and "overdoing." The overdoing is a costly
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PART-TIME HELP
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experience about which most housekeepers know altogether too much.
Every community offers part-time help possibilities. To be sure, it takes some looking around, some discouraging experiences, Ix^fore arriving at just the jxrsons who hi one's own situation. Yet with many women it means a great deal to be able to have some of the heaviest work done, without bankrupting the budget.
In one homemaker's exj:>erience, three different persons, used for short times for different types of work, have solved the part-time help problem very nicely. The first was an elderly Negro houseman who worked by the hour anywhere she wished to put him— washing floors, woodwork or windows, sweeping, dusting or moving furniture.
For dinner parties a second type of part-time help was found in- valuable—a girl who had been excellently trained for parties by her college home economics course and who would come to serve and clean up afterward. She would also come a little early to help with the last-minute cooking. With such a girl in the kitchen for two hours, one can be hostess throughout the meal instead of combined waitress- hostess, with conversation constantly interrupted by absences from the room.
A third type of help was a high school girl who came on washday. While the mistress of the house started the washing, the girl straight- ened the house and did the breakfast dishes. Then she hung up the clothes as they were washed and later ironed a few of the partially dried plain pieces. On a busy Monday even this much assistance was a great lift and cost only a small sum.
To locate these and other types of part-time help a home maker can call upon her local welfare boards which are always in touch with families whose different members want odd-job work, and the local college and high schools which often maintain a list of students who are anxious to make some spending money. Municipal employment agencies also carry names of persons available for part-time help. The careful selection and use of such help for special occasions repays the homemaker many times in peace of mind or relief from fatigue, and also provides employment where it is much needed. Of course wages by the hour for broken time should be somewhat higher than the hourly pay for a full day.
Trained Help
If you are too busy to spcml any time in training household heljx^rs, you are faced with a difficult problem unless you arc fortunate enough to have a training center in your community. At the present time there
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are many W. P. A. Training Centers in various sections of the country, which are doing a splendid job of thorough training. PubUc vocational schools are entering this field and the Y. W. C. A. also offers a training course for domestic workers in many cities. In some large cities private agencies specialize in this work, and employers may send their em- ployees to be trained for a reasonable fee.
If no training center has been established nearby, why not consider working toward this objective, as a worthy project for a club or com- munity group? With sufficient encouragement and backing, it should be comparatively easy to interest the local Board of Education in this idea, and to get such a training center established in your midst. This will be of real value to young unemployed men and women and it will also be of great help to the homemakers of your community who need trained and competent workers.
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PART II
HOUSEKEEPING METHODS
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SECTION ONE
Care of the House
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CHAPTER XI
TOOLS FOR HOUSECLEANING TASKS
Housecleaning can be brisk, efficient and stimulating, or it can be grim and time-consuming. Much depends on the tools at hand— the more efficient the tools, the faster the work. And of course the results will be better, too.
On pages 140-142 you will find a list of cleaning equipment and materials. Each essential item is starred— the rest can be added when the budget permits.
Cleaning tools are good servants only when they receive proper care. A vacuum cleaner lags on the job when the dust bag is clogged with dirt; a soiled duster or mop is little better than none at all; and a carpet sweeper can't pick up surface dirt if its brush is snarled with lint and hairs, if the dust pans are filled to overflowing, or if the bristles are worn too short to touch the carjxt. A few minutes a day spent in caring for equipment will pay good dividends in service.
The Vacuum Cleaner A. Use
1. Adjust the nozzle to rug or floor unless adjustment is automatic. To test for correct adjustment, place the cleaner on the rug with the handle in operating [x^sition. Turn on the motor. The rug should be lifted to the nozzle by suction and held there firmly. When an agitator type cleaner is used, the carpel or rug will vibrate if the nozzle is pro}X.'rly adjusted. This vibration can be felt if one's hand is placed on the carpet just in front of the nozzle.
2. Operate the cleaner slowly in a straight line, lengthwise of the rug.
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TOOLS FOR HOUSECLEANING TASKS
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Go over each section at least twice to remove embedded dirt and grit.
:;. Keep the cord out of the way, releasing only the length actually required, to avoid tangling with lamp cords, etc., and possible dam- age to the cleaner cord itself.
4. Familiarize yourself with the attachments and their uses. Once you discover how easy it is to attach them and how many tasks they make easy, there will be no danger of their becoming a poor investment through lack of use.
B. Care
1. Pick up pins, hairpins, tacks and any small sharp objects before using the vacuum cleaner. They may cut the belt of a motor-driven brush or agitator cleaner, or they may puncture the dust bag.
2. Empty the dust bag ajter each use (suction action is lessened by dirt in the bag). Shake the dirt into a deep waste basket lined with a paper bag, to avoid scattering dust. Every three months, turn the dust bag inside out, after emptying it, and brush the inside thor- oughly. Never wash the bag because this destroys the dust-proof finish. Certain manufacturers provide disposable paper liners for the dust bag. These are emptied after each use, and disposed of when worn. Five liners constitute a year's supply. They protect the cloth bag and do away with the necessity for cleaning it.
3. Remove the revolving cylinder and brushes, from a motor-driven brush cleaner once a week. Remove all threads and hairs.
4. Wind the cord loosely to avoid damaging the fine wires inside. Replace worn cords immediately (page 102). Turn ofif the current before pulling out the plug, or contacts may be burned.
5. Follow the manufacturer's directions for lubrication of motor- driven brush or agitator cleaners. Overlubrication is as harmful to the motor as lack of lubrication.
(). Replace the belt and brush of motor-driven brush or agitator clean- ers before they are badly worn.
7. Dust the motor housing and handle after each use.
8. Keep all attachments clean.
The Carpet Sweeper
A. Use
Run the carpet sweeper smoothly and quickly back and forth, over the surface of the rug or carpet, without using more pressure than is
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SWEEPERS — BROOMS
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necessaiy. Certain carpet sweepers have a brush control which adjusts automatically to rugs and carpets of varying thickness.
B. Caty
1. Empty the dust pan after each use. A clogged sweeper will not pick up dust and litter.
2. Take out the brush and clean it at least once a week. A matted tangled brush cannot sweep elficicntly. Cut threads, hair, etc., and remove them with a cleaning tool provided by the manufacturer, or a metal comb. If the bristles are sticky, clean them with carbon tetrachloride. Replace the brush when it is worn down.
3. Oil the sweeper according to the manufacturer's directions.
4. Dust the outside and handle after each use.
Hand Applicators for Floor Wax
A. Use
Smooth the wax on in a thin coat using straight even strokes, in one direction only.
B. Care
1. Wash immediately after each use before the wax hardens. (a) Use warm soapsuds to remove wax.
(h) Rinse in lukewarm water until water is clear.
(c) Dry at room temperature. Shake several times during drying.
2. Hang the applicator in the cleaning closet. Never allow the pad to rest on the floor.
Corn and Fiber Brooms
A. Use
Sweep evenly in one direction only, keeping the broom on the rug or carpet to avoid raising too much dust. Overlap the strokes.
B. Care
1. Always hang up a broom. Never let the bristles rest on the floor.
2. Dip fiber brooms (not corn brooms) in clear water once a week and hang up to dry. This prevents brittleness and curling.
3. Wash fiber brooms (not corn brooms) if badly soiled, in mild luke- warm soapsuds. Rinse thoroughly in clear lukewarm water and hang up to dry.
4. Dust corn brooms with a dry cloth after each use.
TOOLS FOR HOUSECLEANING TASKS
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Dust Mops
A. Use
Run the dust mop over the surface without raising it from the floor, in order to avoid scattering dust.
B. Care
1. Always hang up mops. Never let the heads rest on the floor.
2. Always clean a dust mop after each use. The best way is to use the suction tool attachment of the vacuum cleaner. If this is not possi- ble the mop should be shaken free of dust. If you live in the coun- try it is your privilege to shake the mop out of doors, but in cities and suburbs this is unfair to neighbors. Shake the mop into a large paper bag instead of out the window, (The practice of using a vacuum cleaner for a preliminary dusting of bare floors is a good one. When this is done, the dust mop never gets very dirty.)
3. Wash dust mops frequently in a pail or laundry tray.
{a) Use mild lukewarm suds. If the mop is very dirty wash it twice
or more, using fresh suds each time. {b) Rinse in lukewarm water until the water is clear, (c) Shake out thoroughly until flufify.
{d) Dry out of doors in warm weather or at room temperature. {e) Treated mops may be dipped in the solution used for making
treated dusters (page 136).
Wet Mops
1. String tnops should be washed in hot soapsuds, rinsed and shaken to separate strings. Dry in the sun if possible. Never put the mop away while it is wet or damp.
2. Sponge Rubber tnops: Wash the sponge in warm soapsuds, rinse thoroughly, replace in handle and remove excess water with the squeegee lever.
3. Cellulose Sponge mops: (see care of cellulose sponges, page 137).
Scrub Brushes
1. Wash in warm soapsuds after each use, until bristles are clean.
2. Rinse thoroughly in clear warm water.
3. Let dry, bristles down, at room temperature, or outdoors in the sun.
4. Never put away until completely dry.
134
M i//:um //. /.trhc and Patrnto Hall
Top: Make room in your cleaning cabinet tor a basket to hold the supplies you need in cleaning room by room.
Lower leh: A cellulose sponge mop with a long handle and a two-compart- ment pail make floor washing easy.
Lower right: This pail has a tray top which hoKIs cleaning supplies.
TOOLS FOR HOUSECLEANING TASKS
Hair or Nylon Brooms and Brushes
1. Wash in lukewarm suds made with mild soap.
2. Rinse thoroughly with clear lukewarm water.
3. Shake to remove excess water.
4. Hang up to dry.
5. Shake several times during drying.
6. Brush or comb bristles into original shape.
Note: Matted or crushed brushes can be renovated with a little patience. Wash them in the way described above. While they are wet use a coarse comb and untangle a few bristles at a time, beginning at the outer edge and working in toward the backing. Use a finer comb to restore original shape. Hang up to dry.
Dusting and Polishing Cloths
A. Use Gather the dust into the cloth to avoid scattering it.
H. Care
1. Dustcloths
(a) When soiled wash in warm soapsuds; rinse thoroughly in clear lukewarm water. Dry.
(b) Dip in lemon oil solution (below). Re-dry.
(c) Store in tightly covered metal box (page 88).
Treated Dusters I pint hot water ^ cup lemon oil
Combine hot water and lemon oil. Dip 4-5 cheesecloth squares (20" X 20") in solution. Press solution through cloth thoroughly. Scjueeze out all excess moisture. Dry thoroughly.
2. Polishing cloths
Wash after each use in warm soapsuds; rinse thoroughly in clear lukewarm water. Dry before putting away.
3. Chamois
Wash like chamois gloves (page 293).
136
STORING THE EQUIPMENT
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4. Floor cloths
Wash in hot soapsuds; rinse thoroughly in hot water. Use a good commercial chlorine bleach frequently, according to directions on the bottle. Dry out of doors if possible.
Cellulose Sponges
1. Wash after each use in warm soapsuds; rinse thoroughly; squeeze out excess water or put through wringer; do not twist.
2. These sponges may be sterilized in boiling water if necessary.
Rubber and Synthetic Rubber Gloves
1. Always have two pairs.
2. Never allow genuine rubber gloves to remain in cleaning fluid or acid or alkaline solutions longer than half an hour. At the end of this time, change to another pair to continue work.
3. Soak used gloves in tepid soapsuds 10-20 minutes; rinse thor- oughly in clear tepid water; hang up to dry. Sprinkle inside with talcum powder. Never put away until thoroughly dry.
4. Store genuine rubber gloves in a cool dark place.
5. The new synthetic rubber gloves are not affected by solutions that injure genuine rubber. They hold their shape and may be stored in any convenient place.
Storage of Cleaning Equipment
One item that is generally overlooked in both house plans and apart- ment layouts is space to store cleaning equipment. Notice that we do not even say "adequate" space, because in most cases there isn't even a minimum space provided for this specific purpose!
Mops and brooms behind doors, the vacuum cleaner in the hall closet, dusters and polishing cloths tucked away in odd corners— such haphazard storage is the general rule, even though it means hundreds of extra steps and a great deal of petty annoyance.
Perhaps you have always accepted this state of affairs, with definite irritation, to be sure, but have never actually given much thought to a satisfactory solution.
A careful scrutiny of floor and wall space will lead to ideas, no mat- ter how hopeless the situation may seem at first glance. On page 13S we illustrate what can be done if you can find wall space 29 inches wide and 7S' 4 inches high, plus one shelf and one drawer in another
137
TOOLS FOR HOUSECLEANING TASKS
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linr.^.ntj by El/a L>>.ii.,i
Left: Cleaning equipment can be stored compactly and conveniently in a
corner wall space. Right: This wall space, plus one shelf and one drawer in another location,
provides for minimum cleaning equipment.
IcKution. This is not ideal, but is a great improvement over half a dozen odd storage places.
If you can find a corner space, so much the better, as we have shown above. And on the next page we have designed an ideal storage closet for cleaning equipment which you may be able to build in other- wise unused space.
Often there is an extra clothes closet on the first floor which is used for haphazard storage, and which might well be transformed into an adequate cleaning closet. Shallow shelves down one side, a shelf run- ning the width of the closet within easy reach, clips for holding brooms,
138
THE IDEAL CLOSET FOR THE TOOLS
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Drawnii/ by Effa Bruicii
If unused space can be found, an ideal cleaning closet can be constructeii according to this plan.
mops, etc. on the remaining wall space, a shoe bag with pockets on the door, for holding dusters, floor space for the vacuum cleaner, carpet sweeper and pail— and you have an orderly, efficient cleaning closet. Of course problems vary, and it is possible that no one of our plans will work for you. However, if you can find any space at all, you can, with a little patience, work out a satisfactory storage place. First, col- lect all your cleaning tools and materials at the location you think ma\ do. Then, with the help of a second person and a piece of chalk, work out the best plan for utilizing every bit of wall and flcK)r space. First, set the tfx)ls that rec]uire floor space, such as the vacuum cleaner, carpet sweeper and pail, in [X)sition. Now collect the t(X)ls that are to be clipped to the wall— broom, dust mop, wax applicator, etc. Have your
139
TOOLS FOR HOUSECLEANING TASKS
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helper hold these in position while you outline them in chalk, which can be erased if you discover a better arrangement (our plans on pages 138 and 139 will give you ideas). Be sure to place the tools that are used most often in the most accessible positions.
An hour or so spent in planning and working out storage space will be remarkably worth your while, and you will wonder why you didn't do it long ago.
Cleaning Equipment
Large Equipment Where to Store
*Vacuum cleaner and attachments . . . Cleaning closet
Hand-type vacuum cleaner Cleaning closet
*Carpet sweeper Cleaning closet
*Applicator for floor wax Cleaning closet
Weighted floor polisher or electric polisher . Cleaning closet
Brooms, Mops, etc.
I soft bristle or hair broom .... Cleaning closet
*i corn or fiber broom Cleaning closet
*i dust mop Cleaning closet
*i wet mop (string, sponge rubber or cellulose
sponge) and 2-compartment pail . . Cleaning closet
*i scrub brush (long handle preferred) . . Cleaning closet
*i dust pan (long handle preferred) . . . Cleaning closet
I dust pan brush (long handle preferred) . Cleaning closet
Brushes
*Toilet bowl brush Bathroom
*Radiator brush (if not included with vacuum
cleaner attachments) Cleaning closet
*Whisk broom or upholstery brush . . . Cleaning closet
Small soft brush for cleaning ornate silverware Kitchen
Small soft brush for carved furniture, etc. . . Cleaning basket
Venetian blind brush Cleaning closet
Long-handled wall brush Cleaning closet
•Minimum Equipment.
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WHAT IS NEEDED
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Cloths, Sponges, etc. *2-4 treated dustcloths (page 136)
*6 cheesecloth squares (24" x 24") *2 flannel polishing cloths
I chamois
*3 cellulose sponges (for kitchen, bathroom and cleaning basket)
*2 floor cloths (for kitchen and bathroom) Cotton waste (this can be purchased at public garages or automobile supply shops) .
Rubber gloves
Small funnel
Polishes and Polishing Materials Furniture polish or lemon oil (essential if paste or liquid wax is not used on furniture)
*Wax (paste, liquid or self-polishing) Denatured alcohol (poison)
*Metal polish ....
*Silver polish .... Jeweller's rouge or rouge cloth
*Turpentine (flammable)
•Lemon oil .
•Linseed oil .
Soaps, Abrasives and Cleansers *Mild scouring powder or whiting •Ammonia (household) Water softener (page 256) . •Toilet bowl cleaner •Fuller's earth or other absorbent •Rottenstone
•Minimum Equipment.
141
Where to Store
Covered metal box in cleaning closet Cleaning closet Cleaning closet (if soiled with polish or wax, keep in covered metal box until washed) Cleaning closet
Kitchen, Bathroom and Cleaning basket Cleaning closet
Cleaning closet Cleaning basket Cleaning closet
Cleaning basket
Cleaning closet shelf
Cleaning closet shelf
Kitchen
Kitchen
Kitchen
Cleaning closet shelf
Cleaning closet shelf
Cleaning closet shelf
Cleaning basket
Kitchen
Kitchen
Bathroom
Cleaning closet shelf
Cleaning basket
TOOLS FOR HOUSECLEANING TASKS
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Soaps, Abrasives and C/(?fl«e/\f— (continued) W here to Store
*Carbon tetrachloride .... *Househol(d disinfectant *Mild soap (chips, flakes, beads, grains) *Paint cleaner (commercial or homemade, 167)
Leather cleaner
*Art gum eraser
Wall paper cleaner, dough-type or pad
Solution for cleaning glass .
. Cleaning basket Kitchen
page
Kitchen
Cleaning basket Cleaning basket Cleaning basket Cleaning basket Cleaning basket
Cleaning Basket
A small inexpensive open market basket with a handle makes an excellent cleaning basket which can be carried from room to room quite easily. We find that a box or basket measuring 12 inches long, 10 '/2 inches wide and 8 inches deep is large enough to hold the articles listed below.
A fitted oilcloth lining with pockets to hold small objects is easy to make, and helps to keep the basket in order.
With a cleaning basket, there will be no need for hurried trips back to the source of supply for forgotten items. Check the contents with the following list before you start your cleaning program.
Whisk broom or upholstery brush (for brushing draperies and
upholstery) Small soft brush (for dusting carving, etc.)
1 treated- dustcloth, page 136 (for daily dusting)
2 cheesecloth squares (for washing and drying woodwork) Cotton waste (for applying polishes and cleansers)
I flannel polishing cloth (for rubbing or polishing) I cellulose sponge (for w\ashing woodwork, walls, etc.) Art-gum eraser (for removing soiled spots from walls or from
lampshades) Wallpaper cleaner (dough-type or pad) Furniture polish or lemon oil or wax Mild scouring powder or whiting Paint cleaner (page 167) Carbon tetrachloride (4-ounce bottle) Oil of peppermint (page 188) Scissors
'Minimum Equi|)mcnt.
142
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C H . V P 1 E R XII
FLOORS
l-'rom the days when pioneer housekeepers scrubbed their unhn- ished wood floors to a gleaming whiteness, clean, well-cared-lor floors have been the pride of "good housekeepers." In those early days there was just one type of floor and one method of cleaning— sand or strong stnip, water and "elbow grease." Today there are many types of floors, and many finishes, and all of them require special care.
Beautiful floors need protection against wear, scratching and mar- ring. Small rugs, placed where the wear is most severe, are a protec- tion, as are the proper kind of furniture casters such as cushion glides or soft rubber ball-bearing casters.
Most of us do not realize how many kinds of floors and fl(X)rings exist, or that their care is further complicated by the finish which has been applied. Among wood floors alone, we must know whether the wood is hard or soft and whether the grain is closed or open, in order to select the proper finish. And we must know whether the finish is varnish, oil, paint, shellac, stain or wax in order to give it the proper care. In the case of factory-finished hardwood floorings, which are be- coming more and more popular, the manufacturer's directions for cleaning and maintenance should be followed. Other floorings include linoleum, felt base floor covering, composition tile, rubber tile and sheet rubber, clay tile, marble, terrazzo, slate and cement. Each one demands special treatment. You see that there can be no blind as- sumption that a floor is just a floor, if wc want it to have long life and lasting beauty.
FLOOR WAXES AND HOW TO USE THEM
Wax in its various forms is used as a finish for many types of floors.
Paste wax gives a mirror-like finish if projxrly used.
Apply it in a t/iin film with a lamb's-wool applicator or cheese- cloth pad. Too vnich wax smears and ma{es the fioor slippery.
Let it dry at least half an hour.
Polish until the surface is hard and lustrous, with an electric fl(K)r polisher, if possible. Polishing by hand, with a weighted polisher, is
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FLOORS
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somewhat tedious work. (In most cities of any size it is possible to rent an electric floor polishing machine.)
A second thin coat of paste wax increases the luster, and fine floors are often given three coats. Let each coat dry for half an hour and then polish to a hard surface before applying the next coat.
This type of wax builds up a beautiful finish over a period of years, if it is cared for properly.
Liquid wax is really paste wax with more solvent added. It is easier to apply than paste wax and the finish is the same as that produced by paste wax.
Apply it evenly in a thin coating with a lamb's-wool applicator or cheesecloth pad.
Let it dry at least half an hour.
Polish in the same way .as for paste wax, using one or more coats as desired.
Self-Polishing Waxes have a water base and are often called "water emulsion" waxes. This type of wax is extremely easy to use and dries to a good shiny finish without polishing. The wax film is thinner and not as hard as the film given by paste or liquid wax, and must be re- newed much more often.
Self-polishing wax is especially adapted to use on linoleum or kitchen floors and work surfaces. It should be used on wood floors only if the floor has been sealed with a waterproof finish such as a good varnish, shellac or paint, because otherwise the water base may raise the grain of the wood. This is the only type of wax which can be used on rubber tile, sheet rubber, or asphalt tile, because both paste and liquid waxes contain a solvent which is injurious to these floor coverings.
Apply in a thin film with an applicator or cheesecloth pad in long even strokes.
Allow to dry 20-30 minutes.
Care of Waxed Floors
Daily: Use an untreated dust mop. (Never use an oiled mop on waxed surfaces; it softens the wax and will leave an unabsorbed film of grease to catch dust.) Kitchen floors may need to be damp-mopped every day.
Weekly: Paste or Liquid Wax—Ktmo\t dust with vacuum cleaner or soft hair broom. Go over the floor with untreated mop if necessary. Self-Polishing Wax— Use a damp mop if necessary. Kitchen floors may require washing once a week or oftener. Washing directions are given below.
144
FLOOR WAXES
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Monthly: Paste or Liquid ir^/.v— Polish with weighted brush or electric floor polisher. Rewax spots which receive heavy wear, if necessary. Liquid wax is most useful for this work of patching. Self-Polishing Wax—li floor is soiled, wash with mop wrung out of warm mild soapsuds. Rinse with mop wrung out of clear warm water. When dry, apply fresh coat of wax, if necessary. To prevent excess accumu- lation of wax, scrub thoroughly between every two or three applications of self-polishing wax. When this is not done it may be necessary to use special cleaners to remove the old accumulation of wax.
Twice Yearly (or oftener if floor receives hard wear) : Paste or Liquid H^^jt— Rewax entire floor.
Special Care of Floors Treated with .Paste or Liquid Wax
Wipe up, at once, water spilled on floors waxed with paste or liquid wax or it will make white spots which will require rewaxing.
Remove soil spots with a cloth dampened lightly with turpentine or liquid wax. Rub on the spot until soil is removed. Allow to dry. Apply a new coat of wax. Allow to dry. Polish.
Scratches are treated like soil (above). Light scratches may disap- pear with polishing alone.
Removing an old wax finish is not necessary unless the floor has been badly treated. If floors are gummy from.cheap wax, or if they have been badly neglected or stained, the old finish must be removed.
Choose one of the prepared wax removers which does not present a fire hazard, or carbon tetrachloride to remove wax. (Be sure to work in a well-ventilated room when using carbon tetrachloride.) (If turpen- tine is used to remove wax, have the room well ventilated and be sure there is no open fire or flame. Turpentine is flammable.)
Apply with a soft clean cloth to a small area, and work until all wax is removed before starting on a new area. Wash floor with a cloth wrung out of mild soapsuds. Rinse with cloth wrung out of clear warm water. Use as little water as possible; wash and rinse a small area at a time. Let dry thoroughly. Rewax (page 144).
WOOD FLOORS
Among the hard woods used for floors are oak, maple, beech and birch. Soft woods are Southern pine and cypress, Douglas fir, redwood and Western larch, red cedar and hemlock.
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FLOORS
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Hardwood flooring is more expensive than soft wood, takes a bet- ter finish, wears uniformly and is more attractive in appearance.
Paste or Hquid wood fillers must always be used on open-grain wood fl(X)rs such as oak, but fillers should be applied by an expert for satis- factory results. Close-grain woods such as maple, beech, pine and fir do not require this preliminary treatment.
The care and proper maintenance of a wood floor depend entirely upon the finish that has been applied. If you know which type of finish has been used on your floors and understand its advantages and dis- advantages, you will be better able to give them the correct care that will insure longer life and better appearance.
Finishes for Wood Floors
Wax brings out the beauty of the grain in the wood, and may be applied to a floor which has been stained, painted, treated with a pene- trating finish (page 148), varnished, shellacked or lacquered. Before applying wax to a floor which has been oiled, scrub the floor to remove as much of the oil as possible. If this is done wax can be used success- fully.
The different types of floor wax and methods of application and care are discussed on pages 143-145.
Shellac
Shellac for wood floors is a popular finish with painters and land- lords because it dries so rapidly that the floor is not kept out of service longer than 24 hours.
This finish coats the surface but does not penetrate the wood. Only the very best grade should be used, applied in thin coats. Even the best grade will scratch, chip or wear away unless it is kept protected at all times with wax.
Shellac has less tendency to darken with age than varnish. Worn areas can rarely be patched without a spotted effect which is most unsatisfactory.
This finish should not be used on any type of flooring except wood, and in general it is the least satisfactory finish even for wood.
Care of Shellacl{ed Floors
If wax is used over shellac, see page 144.
Daily: Use an untreated dust mop.
Weel{ly: Sweep with hair broom or use vacuum cleaner. Dust with an untreated mop.
146
FINISHES FOR WOOD FLOORS
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special Care: Wipe up spilled water at once or it will leave white spots. Treat soiled or white spots with a cloth barely mois- tened with a solution of equal parts denatured alcohol (poison) and turpentine. This solution will also remove the top layer of the shellac, so use almost no pressure in rubbing.
Varnish
Varnis/i is a tougher finish than shellac, scratches less easily, and is more resistant to water damage. Even quick-drying varnishes require longer intervals between coats, and the floor must be kept out of service for several days. Care must be taken to prevent dust from settling on the surface during the drying period.
Varnish tends to darken with age, and the same difficulty is experi- enced with attempts to patch worn areas as with shellac.
Coating a varnished floor with wax (page 143) increases its dura- bility.
Varnish should be used only on wood flooring.
Care of Varnished Floors
If wax is used over varnish, see page 144.
Daily: Use an untreated dust mop.
Wee/{ly: (Same as above).
Occasional: Wash floors finished with waterproof varnish when necessary, using a mop wrung out of mild lukewarm suds. Rinse with mop wrung out of clear lukewarm water. Let floor dry thoroughly before walking on it. Wash floors finished with other types of varnish only when absolutely necessary, and then with great care. Wash, rinse and dry one small area before going on to the next.
Gloss Lacquers
Gloss Lacquers are durable and have good resistance against dam- age by heat or water. They are quick-drying and form a hard glossv finish that does not mar easily or become "checked" when exposed to extreme changes in temperature. Worn areas can be patched without showing.
This finish may be used satisfactorily on all types of wood flooring. It can be applied over shellac but not over varnish or paint as the solvents in the lacquer dissolve these finishes.
147
FLOORS
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Care of Lacquered Floors
If wax is used over lacquer, see page 144.
Daily: Use treated dust mop.
Weekly: Sweep with hair brush or use vacuum cleaner.
Occasional: Wash with mop wrung out of mild lukewarm soap- suds. Rinse with mop wrung out of clear lukewarm water.
Special Care: A fresh coat of lacquer may be applied without removing the old coating. Clean the old coating first. If wax has been used it must be removed before relacquering.
Penetrating Finishes or Seals
Penetrating Finishes or Seals which actually enter the wood and seal the pores are excellent to use on wood floors which are to be waxed. Applied by a professional, these finishes do not scratch with ordinary traffic, and may be patched if necessary, without detection. They can- not be applied over another type of finish. Two or three coats applied to a smooth clean floor produce a fine finish.
This type of finish is becoming increasingly popular for all kinds of wood floors. It is the only type recommended by the two hardwood flooring associations and by most hardwood flooring manufacturers.
The care of floors treated in this way is the same as for waxed floors of any type (page 144) .
Floor Oil
Floor oil is not a particularly satisfactory finish. The surface is "tacky" and dirt clings to it. Eventually the floor darkens until it is almost black. Before applying wax to a floor which has been oiled, scrub the floor to remove as much of the oil as possible.
Care of Oiled Floors
Use a lightly oiled mop. When soiled, scrub with mild soapsuds and rinse with a mop wrung out of clear water. Let dry thor- oughly. Apply a good grade of floor oil, according to the manu- facturer's directions. Let dry for at least 12 hours.
Paint
Paint is another finish which is really a coating, because it does not penetrate. Patching worn spots cannot be done without producing
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a sjiotted effect. Paint is seldom used on wocjd floors because it hides the beautiful grain of the wood.
The surface of a painted floor should be protected by a coat of wax (page 143) to increase its durability and ease of upkeep.
Cure of Painted Floors
If wax is used over paint, see page 144.
Daily: Sweep with hair broom or use vacuum cleaner. Dust with untreated mop.
Weef{ly: Go over floor with damp mop.
Special Care: Frequent washing with a mop wrung out of mild soapsuds, followed by rinsing with a mop wrung out of clear lukewarm water. Use very little water and wash and rinse a small area at a time. Never let water remain on the floor. Let floors dry thoroughly before walking on them.
Unfinished Wood Floors
Camps and summer cottages often have unfinished wood floors. Per- haps this is fitting in a "back-to-nature" atmosphere, but it doesn't make the housekeeper's life any easier. Soft wood that has not been treated is apt to splinter and chip, which makes the cleaning problem even more diflicult.
If you own the camp or cottage, we suggest that you apply a pro- tective finish. A penetrating finish (page 14S) plus wax is most satis- factory. Other finishes and their care are discussed on pages 146-148.
Care of Unfinished Wood Floors Daily: Sweep with a corn or fiber broom.
Weef^ly (if necessary) : Wash with a mop wrung out of warm water, mild soapsuds. Rinse with a mop wrung out of clear warm water. Do not use much water. Strong alkalis darken wood, so do not use washing soda, ammonia or similar cleaning agents.
Special Care: Spots and stains can be scrubbed away with a brush and scouring powder. Stubborn spots may require scrub- bing with pumice, sand or steel wool.
Bleaching: Use a good commercial chlorine bleach according to directions on the bottle.
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FLOORS
LINOLEUM AND COMPOSITION FLOORS
Linoleum
Resilient, comfortable underfoot, easy to care for and extremely good looking, linoleum has earned its popularity as a floor covering for every room in the house. It is made of oxidized oils and gums mixed with ground cork and wood flour and pressed on a fabric back, such as burlap, saturated felt, or, in the case of wall Hnoleum, a cotton back.
There are several types of linoleum, designed to meet varying needs, budgets and decorative plans.
Battleship and Plain Linoleum are solid color with no patterns. The color extends through to the backing.
Jaspe and Marbleized Linoleum are similar to plain except that they are multicolored with no regularity of pattern. These linoleums are inlaid and the variegated colors extend through to the backing, so that colors and pattern last throughout the life of the linoleum. The upkeep is easier than that of plain or battleship linoleum, because plain colors show up soil more than variegated colors do.
Inlaid Linoleum is made so the color in each part of the design extends separately, in sections, right through to the backing.
Printed Linoleu7n is thin-gauge plain linoleum pressed on burlap. The pattern is applied to the surface by printing or stamping with heavy oil paint. A coat of lacquer is applied at the factory. This is the least expensive type of linoleum and the pattern must be well pro- tected from wear by a wax finish or it will wear ofl.
Felt-Bacf^ Linoleuyn is a fairly new type. The generous top layer is inlaid linoleum mounted on a backing of felted fabric saturated with asphalt which, in the case of one type, is cushioned with a layer of rubber. An adhesive on the back makes installation easy, because it does away with the extra expense and time for laying a felt lining. No rollers or heavy tools are needed for this installation. While this type of linoleum is really a permanent flooring, it can be taken up easily by starting at one corner and puUinj;. A new layer of adhesive must be applied when it is reinstalled.
Care of All Types of Linoleuryj Floors
Paste, liquid or self-polishing waxes, described on pages 143-145, all are satisfactory finishes for linoleum floors. Self-polishing wax is the most practical choice for linoleum in the kitchen or other work- rooms, because it is so easy to apply and remove.
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Daily: Dust with an untreated mop. The areas near work sur- faces in the kitchen may need to be damp-mopped every day.
Weel{ly: Paste or Liquid li'^A-— Remove dust with vacuum cleaner or soft hair broom. Go over the floor with untreated mop if necessary. Selj-Polishitjg \Vax—\Jsc a damp mop if nec- essary. Kitchen floors may need to be washed once a week or oftener (see directions below).
Monthly: Paste or Liquid Wax— Vo\\s\\ with weighted brush or electric floor polisher. Rewax spots which receive heavy wear, if necessary. Liquid wax is easy to use for this patch- ing. Selj-Polishing Wax—\i floor is soiled, wash with .1 mop wrung out of warm mild soapsuds. Rinse with mop wrung out of clear warm water. When dry, rewax if nec- essary. To prevent excess accumulation of wax, scrub thor- oughly between every two or three applications of self- polishing wax. If this is not done, it may be necessary to use special cleaners to remove the old accumulation of wax.
Twice Yearly (or oftener if floor receives hard wear) : Paste or Liquid Wax— KcwdiX entire floor (page 143).
Special Care: Never use strong soaps because alkalis tend to soften linoleum. Harsh scouring powders may break through or scratch the sealed surface. Never flood the surface of lino- leum with water. Wash as directed for waxed floors (page 145). Linoleum is more often washed away than worn away. Do not use shellac, varnish or lacquer, because they will cause linoleum to discolor and will form unsightly ridges in traffic lanes and eventually crack. Equip furniture with cushion glides or soft rubber ball-bearing casters.
Composition Floors
Felt Base Floor Covering is made of rag telt saturated with asphalt, to which a surface of oil paint is applied. In one type the color goes through tf) the backing, increasing the wearing quality. Felt base floor coverings should never be called "linoleum" or confused with felt-back linoleum. Its care is the same as that of linoleum floors.
Asphalt Tile Floor Covering. .\s its name indicates, this flooring has an asphalt base. It is resilient, resistant to ordinary acids and
FLOORS
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alkalis, quiet, impervious to moisture, fire-resisiant, easily cleaned and long wearing if directions for care are followed.
Care of Asphalt Tile Flooring
Daily: Dust with untreated mop,
Wee/(ly: Sweep with hair broom or use vacuum- cleaner. Dust with untreated mop. Damp mop with mop wrung out of clear cold water, if necessary.
Monthly: Wash with mop wrung out of mild lukewarm suds, or use a special cleanser recommended by the manufacturer. Rinse with mop wrung out of clear lukewarm water. Dry with clean dry mop. Apply self-polishing wax or special finish recommended by the manufacturer.
Special Care: Do not use an oiled mop or any cleaner which con- tains oil, as oils attack asphalt. Avoid strong soaps or soap powders, harsh scouring powders or detergents. Paste or liquid wax should never be used, as they contain solvents which soften asphalt and cause colors to run. Equip fur- niture with glides or ball-bearing casters with wide soft rubber treads. Metal domes should be removed.
Rubber Tile and Sheet Rubber Flooring. This type of flooring may be used in living rooms or bedrooms, but is not recommended for kitchens, laundries or bathrooms, because oils, grease, soap and excess water are bad for rubber, softening it and causing it to swell. Rubber tile is resilient, durable if properly cared for, quiet and easy to clean.
Care of Rubber Tile and Sheet Rubber Flooring
Daily: Dust with untreated mop.
Weef{ly: Sweep with hair broom or use vacuum cleaner. Dust with untreated mop. Damp mop with mop wrung out of clear cold water if necessary.
Monthly: Wash with a cleaning solution recommended by the manufacturer. Rinse thoroughly with mop wrung out of clear cold water. Mop, rinse and dry a small area at a time. Never flood the floor with water. Apply self-polishing wax (page 144) or a finish approved by the manufacturer. Never use lacquer or varnish, or paste or liquid wax as finishes for this type of flooring (these waxes contain sol- vents which attack rubber).
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TILE AND SLATE FLOORS
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Composition Tile Flooring is a resilient floor tile made of plastic material comfioscd of resinous binders and fibers. It has a glaze resem- bling terra cotta and is non-absorbent, greaseproof, acid-resistant, impervious to .moisture and very durable. It comes in a wide range of colors, plain or marbleized. Stains are easily removed from it.
Care of Composition Tile
Daily: Dust with untreated mop.
Weef^ly: Damp mop with clear cold water.
Monthly: Wash with mop wrung out of lukewarm mild soapsuds or use the special cleaner recommended by the manu- facturer. Rinse with mop wrung out of clear lukewarm water. Dry. Apply self-polishing wax (page 144) or spe- cial finish recommended by the manufacturer.
Special Care: Do not use sweeping compounds, oil, waxes with a solvent Jjase or strong soaps and cleaners. Lacquer, shellac or varnish should never be applied. Furniture resting .on this flooring should be equipped with cushion glides or soft rubber ball-bearing casters.
CLAY TILE, SLATE, MARBLE, TERRAZZO AND CEMENT FLOORS
Clay or Ceramic Tile Flooring. This tile may be had in all colors, with a glazed or unglazed finish, and is both durable and decorative. It is used for flooring in residences, mainly in bathrooms, sun rooms and play rooms. It is also used for porch floors, walks and swimming pools. "Association Tile" is made by manufacturers who are members of the Tile Manufacturers' Association, and meets specifications of the Association and the U. S. Department of Commerce. It is packed in containers showing a grade seal.
Care of Clay or Ceramic Tile Flooring
Daily: Brush with hair broom. Do not use a dust mop, as this treatment is apt to deposit dirt in crevices between tiles.
Weel{ly: Glazed tile may be cleaned with a damp cloth. Extremely dirty areas on unglazed tile may be cleaned by scrubbing with steel wool, scouring powder and water.
Occasionally: Certain types of tiles, such as "quarries" and hand- made unglazed tiles, may be waxed if desired.
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Cautions: Never use an acid solution on glazed tile. Never use a mop because it is apt to leave dirty sediment in the crevices.
Removing Stains froni Unglazed Tile
1. All materials that might stain should be wiped up before they dry and harden.
2. Surface stains can sometimes be removed by scrubbing with a mild scouring powder or trisodium phosphate.
3. If a stain has penetrated deeply, a "poultice treatment" should be applied. Dissolve i part sodium citrate crystals (purchased at a drugstore) in 6 parts water. Measure. Add an equal volume of glycerine; mix well. Work in enough whiting to make a thick paste. Apply '/g-inch thick covering of this paste. Let dry. Remove. Repeat until stain disappears.
4. Paint stains may be removed with a special tile bleach (available at paint supply stores), following directions on the package. If you use paint remover, try it first on an inconspicuous part of the floor. Another treatment for stubborn paint stains is to moisten a thick pad of cloth or cotton with hydrogen peroxide and place over the stain. A second cloth, moistened with ammonia, is placed over the first. Let stand several hours and repeat if necessary. If the stain remains, alternate this treatment with an application of thick paste made by mixing i part trisodium phosphate, i part sodium perborate and 3 parts powdered talc with hot soap solu- tion. Cover the stain with this paste; let dry. Remove. Apply cloths as above. Repeat if necessary.
Slate Tile Flooring requires the same type of care as terrazzo (page 155). Self-polishing wax may be applied as finish.
Marble Flooring is sometimes used in entrance halls, stairways and living rooms of private dwellings.
Care of Marble Floors
Daily: Dust with untreated mop.
Weel^ly: Washing is usually necessary to prevent cloudy film and discoloration caused by grease, dirt and dust. Dampen the floor and sprin+de with a mild scouring powder having a volcanic ash base.* Mop until clean. Rinse and wipe dry. Or use mild soapsuds made with white soap flakes and
•The trade name of one such scouring powder which has national distribution is "Wyandotte Cleanser."
MARHLF, TKRRAZZO, CKMENT FLOORS
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sufi water (page 256). Hard water and soap form an un- desirable coating on the marble. Bui? with soft woolen cloth, cotton waste or chamois.
Special Care: Do not use harsh abrasives which, destroy polish, or strong salt solutions, acids and caustic cleansers which at- tack marble.
Remot'ing Stains from Marble
1. Treat any stain promptly and persistently.
2. For most stains, use a poultice made of volcanic ash scouring [X)wder* and hot water, '74 -inch thick. Allow it to remain on the stain 48-72 hours. Dampen and remove with a wooden paddle. Repeat several times if necessary.
3. Ink stains should be covered with a pad saturated with ammonia or chlorine bleach and left for several hours. One manufacturer puts up special cleaners and stain removers for marble.
Terrazzo Flooring is used for sun porches, halls and main stair- ways. It is made by mixing a small percentage of cement with chips of marble ground down to make a smooth surface. Polishing at the factory produces a shiny appearance. Blocks of terrazzo are otien separated by metal strips which allow for expansion and contraction caused by changes in temperature, thus preventing cracks. These floors should not be washed for at least one week after installation.
Care of Terrazzo Floors
Daily: Dust with an untreated mop.
Weekjy: Brush with hair broom or use vacuum cleaner. Dust with untreated mop.
Monthly: Wash a small area at a time with a mop wrung out of mild lukewarm suds. Rinse with a mop wrung out of clear lukewarm water. Dry.
Cement (Concrete) Floors are most often found in the basement (jf private homes. The growing popularity of basement playrooms makes it necessary to keep this type of floor in good condition.
Finishing cement floors makes it easier to care for them ami keeps down dust. A special paint, especially intended for cement or concrete floors is most satisfactory.
•The trade n.imc of one such scourinj; powilcr which has national ihstribution is "U'yamlottc Cleanser."
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A hard wear-resistant surface may be applied instead of paint, if desired. The National Bureau of Standards recommends the follow- ing procedure:
Mix I gallon of sodium silicate (water glass) with 4 gallons of water. This makes enough solution to coat 1000 square feet once. The floor should be clean and thoroughly dry. Apply the solution with a mop or hair broom and let the floor dry for 24 hours. Scrub with clear water and let dry. Apply a second coat as above. Three or four coats produce a bright hard surface.
Care of Cement {Concrete) Floors
Unfinished: Wash periodically. Wet the floor first, then scrub with hot water and scouring powder. Rinse well. Do not use soap. Self-polishing wax (page 144) lessens dust problems and makes care easier.
Painted or Hard Finish: Apply self-polishing wax (page 144). For care, see page 144.
Removing Oil or Grease Stains from Cement. Scrub with a solu- tion of 4 ounces of trisodium phosphate to i gallon of hot water and scouring powder, using a stiff brush. Rinse well. If the stains are old, sprinkle with trisodium phosphate and moisten with a little water. Let stand at least a half hour, then scrub and rinse as above. Or mix whiting with enough of the trisodium phosphate solution to make a thick paste; cover the stained area with the paste, and leave until dry. Remove and rinse.
Plastic Magnesia Cement Floors. These floors contain magnesium oxychloride as the cementing agent. Self-polishing wax (page 144) may be used to protect the surface.
156
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CHAPTER XIII
WALLS, CEILINGS AND WOODWORK
In this day and age there is no need to put up with monotony of wall treatment. The vast variety of materials and finishes that are available makes possible a selection that will fit both needs and budgets in return for a little "shopping around" to get information and prices. Make your choice with an eye to ease of cleaning as well as to beauty, re- membering that each type of wall covering needs its own special type of care.
Dusting Walls
It is extremely important that walls be dusted regularly and often if more ditficult cleaning tasks are to be avoided. Walls that are neg- lected in this respect soon acquire a film of greasy dust that attracts and holds still more dust and which inevitably becomes embedded and difficult to remove.
The only exception to this rule occurs in the case of papered walls. In soft coal regions or industrial sections dusting papered walls is not advised, because soot will be grimed into the paper no matter what method of dusting is used. An annual cleaning with a dough-type cleaner is recommended.
In other regions where dust and cobwebs are the only problem, pa- pered walls may be dusted with the suction attachment of the vacuum cleaner.
There are three tools for dusting walls:
1. A soft wall brush of hair, nylon, lamb's wool, yarn or sponge rub- ber, with a long handle.
2. A fiber or corn broom covered with an "apron" of soft clean cloth, such as cotton flannel.
3. The dusting attachment of the vacuum cleaner (see illustration, page 159). If you have this attachment use it, by all means, because it eliminates any scattering of dust.
Work from the top down, giving special attention to high mouldings (page 16S). There is one exception to this rule: if cobwebs are present,
157
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whether they are spider webs or dust cobwebs, remove them with an upward lifting stroke to avoid streaking the walls. Cobwebs of any sort are sticky, and if they are pulled down against the wall they will leave a trail of dirt that is hard to remove.
Neglected radiators cause unsightly soil deposits on the surrounding walls. To avoid this, clean the radiators often, especially during the sea- son when they are in use (page 207). Radiator shields are helpful in preventing soil accumulations because they throw the air which passes around a radiator out into the room rather than allowing it to circulate up the wall.
PAINTED WALLS
If painted walls are dusted frequently they seldom need washing. When washing does become necessary, don't go ahead until you have washed a small area in some inconspicuous corner, to see what effect it has on the paint. If you know that the paint is washable and of good quality this precaution is not so important.
If the walls are lightly soiled, mild soap and water or the whiting cleaner below will clean them. Strong soaps, harsh scouring powder and powerful cleansing solutions must always be avoided. If the walls are heavily soiled try one of the following solutions (do not increase the proportion of the chemical, because too much will remove paint and is hard on the hands) :
1. Yi ounce trisodium phosphate to 2 gallons of warm water,
or
2. I teaspoon tetraphosphate compound (page 257) to i gallon of warm water.
or
3. Sodium hexametaphosphate compound (page 257), used according to manufacturer's directions.
Whiting Cleaner for Painted Walls
2 tablespoons white soap flakes 10 tablespoons lukewarm water
1 14 cups whiting
Dissolve soap flakes in water. Cool until jellied. Stir in whiting. Apply with damp cloth or sponge.
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Top left: Use a special dough-type cleaner on non-washable uallpa|x:r. Lower left: Use a cellulose sponge or soft cloth to wash a painted wall. Right: Use the vacuum cleaner attachment to dust high moldings.
How to Wash Painted Walls
Follow this procedure:
1. Dust thoroughly (page 157).
2. Start at the bottom and work up. (If warm water runs down over a soiled wall it will leave streaks that are almost imjMJssihle to remove, but if the wall has been washed first, no streaking results.)
3. Apply the chcjsen cleansing solution to a small area with a cellulose sponge or a soft cloth, using a circular motion. For textured or sculptured walls a stifT brush is more elTective than cloth or s|X)ngc.
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4. Rinse ihe clean area with clear soft water (page 256). Hard water may streak, cloud or spot the walls.
5. Wipe with turkish towelling wrung out of clear water, using an up-and-down stroke.
6. Wash a new area, always starting well within the cleaned area, to avoid streaking.
7. Some authorities recommend applying liquid or self-polishing wax to clean, dry painted walls, in order to restore luster and make future cleaning easier. A wax finish resists fingerprints and soil and consequently stays clean longer.
WALLPAPER
Never attempt to wash wallpaper unless you are sure that it is guaranteed washable. See page 157 for dusting instructions.
Non- Washable Wallpaper
Non-washable wallpaper may be cleaned with a special doughlike preparation or cleaning pad intended for this purpose. This is not easy and a good job requires time and patience.
1. Knead a portion of the cleaner until it is pliable.
2. Clean a strip at the top of the wall, next to the ceiling. Do not press or rub, merely wipe the surface. Fold the cleaner over as it becomes soiled.
3. Clean a strip from the top to the baseboard, using straight even strokes.
4. Repeat, starting within the cleaned strip each time.
5. Brush the walls and baseboards to remove any crumbs of cleaner that may cling to them.
Spots and stains are not easy to remove from non-washable paper. The following treatments are sometimes effective:
Grease Spots
1. If fresh, hold a clean white blotter over the stain and apply a warm (not hot) iron, moving the blotter as it takes up grease.
2. Stubborn grease spots often respond to a poultice treatment. Make a paste of Fuller's earth or commercial dry cleaning powder, and carbon tetrachloride. Apply thickly to the spot, and thin out at the edges beyond the soiled area. Let it remain until thoroughly dry. Wipe off carefully with a cloth dampened with carbon tetra- chloride. Repeat the treatment if necessary.
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Caution: It is wise to test this treatment on an inconspicuous area first, as certain pigments "bleed" when carbon tetrachloride is applied.
Crayon Marias
1. Dampen a clean soft cloth with carbon tetrachloride and sponge lightly. Do not rii-h. It is practically impossible to remove all traces of crayon marks, but repeated sponging. may lighten them so that they are almost invisible.
2. If a ring is left, apply a poultice of commercial dry cleaning powder and carbon tetrachloride. Let dry and brush off.
Smudge or Grime: Use dough-type wallpaper cleaner or art-gum eraser.
Food Stains
1. Brush off as much as possible.
2. If greasy, sponge with carbon tetrachloride.
3. Hot grease will penetrate any finish applied to the surface of wall- paper and cannot -be removed.
In{
1. Blot up surplus quickly, being careful not to spread stain.
2. Apply absorbent powder, brushing it off as fast as it takes up the ink. Repeat until no -more ink is taken up.
3. Ink eradicators or bleaches are apt to remove color from the de- sign, so apply very cautiously if at all.
Lacquer for Wallpaper
Perhaps- you live in a rented house or apartment where a misguided owner has papered the kitchen or -bathroom with non-washable wall- paper. Or perhaps there are small children in the family who may add a fingerprint or crayon design to wallpaper in other rooms. In these instances a coat of flat lacquer on the wallpaper will spare you much anguish.
1. Clean the walls thoroughly (page 160).
2. Apply two coats of gclatin-likc wallpaper size, with a stjft brush and as few strokes as possible. Allow, time for thorough drying be- tween coats.
3. Apply one or two coats of wallpaper lacquer. (This lacquer is llam- mable, so keep it away from any open flame and keep the can cov- ered when not in use.)
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Caution: Sometimes red or yellow colors "bleed" when lacquer is used. If either of these colors is present in the wallpaper, it is best to test the lacquer on an inconspicuous spot before going ahead.
These lacquers darken some papers slightly, although not enough to be objectionable, but once applied marks or spots can be erased or wiped off without damage.
Wax emulsion can also be used, and gives a result similar to lacquer.
Washable Wallpaper
Dough-type wall cleaners are recommended for washable wallpapers also. If the paper is carefully cleaned in this way it may be necessary to wash only such grimy spots as may remain. Be sure to use the par- ticular cleaner recommended by the manufacturer of the wallpaper if you have this information.
Wallpaper that is guaranteed washable may be washed in the fol- lowing manner:
1. Make suds with mild soap and cold water.
2. Wet an area somewhat larger than area to be washed, using clear cold water.
3. Apply suds sparingly to a small area with a sponge. Do not rub hard.
4. Rinse thoroughly with a sponge wrung out of clear cold water.
5. Wash another area, starting within the clean* area. Repeat. (Unless full sections of the wall are washed, the difference may be very noticeable because of the film of soil remaining on the unwashed areas.)
Caution: Avoid water-softening compounds, harsh soaps, alkalis and hot water.
Spots and stains are easier to remove from washable wallpaper than from non-washable, because soap and water can be used safely.
Crayon Mar\s: After sponging with carbon tetrachloride, wash with soap and water as above.
Grease Spots: Page 160,
Smudge or Grime: Page 161. If grimed areas remain, wash with soap and water, as above.
Fruit Stains: Wash first, as directed above. Let dry. If stain re- mains, sponge with denatured alcohol (poison); let dry. If the stain
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has not disappeared, carefully apply a 3 per cent scjluiiun ot hydrcjgen f^eroxide (too* much may change the color in the paper). Repeat the tiitire procedure if necessary.
1. Hloi up surplus quickly, being careful not to spread the ink.
2. Apply full-strength chlorine bleach sparingly by moistening a cloth and patting the spot gently. Do not rub.
:;. Wash with water after using bleach.
I\iint Stains: If fresh, remove with paint solvent.
Water Stains: Occasionally wallpaper becomes discolored with an ugly brown stain caused by water seepage around window casings and under eaves. One or two poultice treatments of Fuller's earth and solvent (page 160) will generally remove this type of stain. Let dry over- night. Scrape off loose powder. Remove any remaining powder with cloth or sponge dampened with cold water.
Cotrring Stains: If walls are badly spattered with some stain which is difficult to remove, such as ink or paint, it is possible to have a paint craftsman match the ground color of the paper with casein paint and paint over the spots with an artist's small paint brush.
Success in spot removal depends on- the kind of stain, the degree of penetration into the paper, and skill in cleaning.
Repairing Damage to Wallpaper
Small Tears
1. Apply paste carefully to torn edges with a small paint brush. Press back into place.
2. Hold clean white blotting paper over the repaired section and rub briskly until the paste holds.
Open Scums may be pasted back in the same manner.
Large Tears or Holes
1. Patch with matching paper left over from the original supply.
2. Tear the paper for the patch, do not cut it, because torn edges are mcrre inconspicuous and easier to work with.
3. Match the pattern as nearly as possible to the torn area.
4. Apply paste to the patch and place it over 'the tear or hole.
5. Hold clean white blotting paper over the patch antl rub briskly unlil the paste holds.
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Bidges or. "Air Bubbles": Pierce the bulge with a large needle, that has had paste applied- to the point. Flatten the paper and rub, as above. Or slit the bulge and apply paste with a small paint brush or medi- cine dropper.
Gloss-finish Wallpaper
These wallpapers have a faintly glossy finish which is less absorbent than that of other papers. This finish resists staining, and grease or grime can be wiped off easily. The method described on page 162 is used for washing this type of paper also.
OTHER TYPES OF WALL COVERINGS AND MATERIALS
Coated Fabric
Coated fabric for walls is obtainable in a wide variety of lovely colors and patterns from which it is possible to select a suitable design for any room- in the house.
Strong cotton cloth is coated with several layers of fine quality paint which is chemically treated to make it moisture-proof and washable. Dull or glossy finishes are available.
Now that improved methods have eliminated the shiny "oilcloth look" that these wall coverings once had, there is no need to limit their use to service rooms. This should be welcome news to those of us who despair of keeping walls immaculate with youngsters charging through the rooms, careless of their grimy fingers!
Colors and patterns will not wash off, and consequently wall cover- ings of this type may be kept clean and fresh over a long lifetime.
The method for washing follows:
1. Dust walls (page 157).
2. Wash a space as large as can be reached conveniently, using mild soapsuds.
3. Rinse with clear water to avoid streaking.
4. Wash another area starting within the clean area. Repeat.
5. Wax, if recommended -by manufacturer.
Grass Cloth
Fibers from honeysuckle bark or jute are bleached, then vat-dyed, woven, and attached to a backing of rice paper. The stencilled pattern is applied to the surface.
Beautiful color contrasts are made possible by using metallic or
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colored rice papers which show through the colored fibers. In very thin weaves hand-stencilled patterns' applied to the backing papers show through with great effectiveness.
Grass cloth w^ill coverings, properly installed, have a long life ex- pectancy. If they are stretched too tightly there is danger of cracking.
Frequent dusting (page 157) keeps this type of wall covering in good condition. Heavy soil or stains can be removed with a dough-type wallpaper cleaner (page 160). Grease spots can be removed with blot- ting paper and a warm iron (page 160).
Ceramic Tile and Porcelain-Enamelled Steel Tile
Walls of these materials are easy to clean. Wash them with a cellu- lose sponge and warm, mild soapsuds. Rinse with a 'sponge wrung out of clear warm water and dry with a soft cloth.
Structural Glass, Tempered Plate Glass and Glass Blocks
Clean in the same way as tile walls, above.
Linoleum, Cork and Composition Tile
For best results use the cleanser and finish recommended by the man- ufacturers. Mild soapsuds applied sparingly with a sponge will clean these types of walls. Rinse with a cloth or sponge wrung out of clear water. Dry thoroughly. Self-polishing wax may be used as a finish.
Moulded Plastic
Clean in the same way as tile walls, above.
Pressed Wood
The care of tempered pressed wcK)d walls which have a synthetic resin finish is quite simple. Regular dusting (page 157) and an oc- casional wiping off with a clean damp cloth are all that is required.
Gypsum and Insulation Boards
Gypsum wallboard contains materials from fireproof gypsum rock and can be obtained in a variety of finishes from a metal foil surface to simulated knotty jiine, American walnut or tile. The care of this type of wallbcjard is the same as for pressed wood, above. Liquid or self-polishing wax may be applied if richer finish is desired. Tile
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board with an enamelled finish can be washed with warm suds made with mild soap, rinsed and dried.
Insulation boards are now available in a wide range of colors, a silvery finish, or a plain finish which can be painted or varnished.
Insulation board with natural or special finishes should be dusted regularly. Follow manufacturer's directions for further care of special factory finishes. To remove heavy smudges from board with a natural finish, rub lightly with fine sandpaper. Grease spots should be sponged repeatedly with carbon tetrachloride until they disappear. Wood- veneered insulating board is finished with varnish or wax and is cared for like wood panelling.
Wood Panelling
The care of wood-panelled walls is much the same as the care of wood floors and furniture, and depends on the finish.
If waxed panelling becomes greatly soiled, remove the wax with additional liquid wax and apply a fresh coat of liquid or self-polishing wax.
If varnished or shellacked wood panelling becomes extremely soiled it may be cleaned with- furniture wash (page 187). Then apply the following polish:
Polish for Varnished or Shellacl{ed Surfaces
Yi cu{i turpentine i cup boiled linseed oil
I tablespoon vinegar Mix thoroughly. Apply like furniture polish (page 185).
Plywood Veneer with Synthetic Resin Finish
Walls of this material may be washed with a cellulose sponge or cloth wrung out of warm mild soapsuds. Rinse with a sponge wrung out of clear water and dry with a soft cloth.
CEILINGS
The care of ceilings depends on the way in which they are finished. Regular dusting is essential and the tools used for dusting walls may be used for ceilings also. If ceilings are high, be sure to choose a safe, sturdy stepladdcr or step stool to stand on.
Ceilings finished with calcimine or whitewash cannot be washed
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without removing the finish. Painted, papered and wood-panelled ceilings are cared for in the same way as walls finished in these ways (pages i5S-i6()).
Perforated acoustic tile ceilings, often installed in kitchens to deaden sound, are usually painted, and can be cleaned in the same manner as painted walls. Non-perforated unpainted acoustic material used in other rooms is kept clean by brushing, preferably with the brush attachment of the vacuum cleaner.
WOODWORK Painted Woodwork
Woodwork needs frequent attention to keep it free of fingermarks and soil. Washable high-gloss paint makes this work easy, since mild soap and water or mild scouring powder removes even heavy soil. Special paint cleaners or a weak solution of trisodium phosphate, sodium hexametaphosphate compound or tetraphosphate compound (page 257) can also be used.
Frequent dusting and wiping with a damp cloth do away with the need for frequent heavy cleaning. However, if heavy soil collects, use this paint cleaner:
Puitit Cleaner for Painted Woo'diforl^^ or Furniture
Yi cup white s(japtlakcs i cjuart hot water
' I cup whiting Dissolve soapflakes in hot water. Let cool until jellied. Stir in whit- ing. Apply with clean damp cKnh. Rinse with soft cloth wrung out of clear water. Dry.
Waxed Woodwork
Some authorities recommend the use ol liquid or self-polishing wax on painted woodwork, to preserve the surface and make cleaning easier. Wax may also be applied to woodwork which has a natural wooti finish. Frecjuent dry dusting and an occasional going over with a dampened cloth keeps waxed woodwork in gcK)d ccjndition. Oc- casionally the old wax finish should be remcned and a fresh coat applied. Warm soap and water will remove self-polishing wax, and liquid wax is easily removed by rubbing with a cloth dampened with more licjuid wax.
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Varnished Woodwork
Dust varnished woodwork with a treated duster (page 136) and go over it occasionally with a damp cloth. If the woodwork is extremely soiled, wash it with the furniture wash described on page 187, being careful not to soil the surrounding walls. Unless a dull finish is de- sired, polish with lemon oil or rottenstone and lemon oil mixed to the consistency of thin cream, again using care not to soil the wall.
Special Problems
Mouldings, door frames and baseboards should be dusted frequently with a brush or the brush attachment of the vacuum cleaner.
Cove mouldings prevent scarring by shoes, toys or furniture.
Carpet sweepers and vacuum cleaners should be equipped with rub- ber guards so that they won't scar or dent baseboards if they hit them accidentally.
Window sills and frames need constant care if they are to be kept from getting grimy. A coat of liquid, paste, or self-polishing wax makes this task easier.
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CHAPTER XIV
WINDOWS AND WINDOW FITTINGS
WINDOWS
A shining, crystal-clear window is a real source of pride. How long it will stay clear and sparkling is a moot question. The answer de- pends on the weather, the amount of dust and soot in the air, the number of times sticky little fingers are pressed against it, and so on.
But window cleaning isn't the messy tiresome job it used to be, and so no one minds doing it often, if necessary, to achieve that shining look.
No matter what method and materials you choose, one word of caution is necessary. Don't ever sit on the window sill to wash the outside of the window panes, and do not allow a household employee to. sit there either. With most windows it is possible to raise and lower the panes to get at the outside window without relinquishing a firm footing. If this isn't true of your windows, or if you live in an apart- ment building, then you must call in a professional window cleaner to wash the outside.
Liquid cleaners for windows may be purchased in bottles equipped with sprays and are extremely easy to use. The liquid is sprayed on and wiped ofT immediately with a clean soft lintless cloth. A second dry cloth is used for a final polish. Never work in direct sunlight— the window panes dry too quickly and are apt to look streaked.
The following solutions are also used for window cleaning: 2 tablespoons household ammonia to 2 quarts warm water, or 2 tablesjxjons vinegar to 2 quarts warm water, or I tablespoon borax to 2 quarts warm water, or I tablespoon kerosene to 2 quarts warm water, or Yz cup denatured alcohol (poison) to 2 quarts warm water
The last-mentioned solution is the best of the homcmatle mixtures to use if windows must be washed in freezing temperatures.
All these solutions are applied with a clean, soft lintless cloth or a cellulose or natural sponge. Wipe them ofT with a rubber squeegee,
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a clean damp chamois or soft dry cloth. To use a squeegee, hold it firmly against the pane and draw it down in a straight stroke. After each stroke, wipe the edge of the squeegee with a cloth or sponge.
Very fine scouring powder or whiting may be used for cleaning win- dows. Apply a light coating with a damp cloth or sponge. Wait until it is almost dry, then remove the coating with a soft, clean lintless cloth. If you wait. until it is thoroughly dry, the powder may settle on the window frame and necessitate dusting. In any case, when this method is used, do not give the room its final dusting until the win- dows are finished.
Paint or uarnish spatters on window panes are more easily removed when they are fresh. Use a cloth dampened with turpentine. Old spatters should be softened with turpentine or paint remover applied with a brush, then scraped off with a putty knife, or a safety-razor blade held in a handle. The latter may be purchased in the ten-cent store.
Putty smears are easily removed from window panes with house- hold ammonia.
WINDOW FITTINGS
Shades
Window shades should be dusted or vacuumed on both sides fre- quently. If you are replacing your shades, by all means purchase a type that is washable.
Non-washable shades may be cleaned like wallpaper (page 160) un- less they are allowed to get too heavily soiled.
Washable shades are made of Holland cloth, painted fabric or pyroxolin-impregnated cloth. Take down one shade at a time, dust it thoroughly and place it on a flat surface. Scrub it with a soft brush or sponge and mild thick soapsuds. Use water sparingly. Rinse off with a ckjth or sponge wrung out of clear water. Wipe dry. Turn the shade and wash the other side. Hang the shade at the window but do not roll it up until it is thoroughly dry.
Pyroxolin-impregnated shades faced with glazed chintz are deco- rative although not as practical as plain washable shades. The two materials are sewed together at the sides, top and bottom. The chintz side should be dusted and brushed frequently, as it is not washable. The backing may be washed in the same manner as all washable shades, being careful not to soak the chintz.
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VENETIAN RLINDS
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Left: A soft wall brush keeps painted walls free from tlust. 1 he Wnetiaii Mind brush saves time by cleaning several slats at once.
Right: Washable shades look like new after they have been scrubbed with mild soap lather and a cellulose sponge.
Venetian Blinds
Brushes of lamb's wool or soft bristles, divided into fingers, make it [xjssible to dust several slats at a time. The brushes are washable. When the slats become soiled they may be washed with a cloth wrung out of mild warm soapsuds or cleaned with a paint cleaner. Wipe olT soapsuds or cleaner with a cloth wrung out of clear warm water, and dry with a soft cloth. Smudges may often be removed with an ari-gum eraser.
Furniture wax may be applied to the slats of Venetian blinds to give them an easily cleaned protective finish.
Dust the tapes with a s(jft brush or the brush attachment of a vacuum cleaner. If the color is fast, the tapes may be shampooed like up- holsterv (page 190). Let the tape drv thoroughlv before rolling up the bhnd. '
Wood-Slat or Bamboo Porch Shades
The slats should be brushed olT several times during the season to kce[) them looking fresh. If washing is necessary a garden hose may be used. Do not roll up the shades until they are perfectly dry.
Valence or Cornice Boards
If the boards are made of polished or painted wood, clean them as you do furniture of these types (pages 1S5 and i(>4). If cloth-covered.
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brush frequently with the brush attachment of the vacuum cleaner. When the cloth becomes soiled, send it to a reliable dry-cleaning estab- lishment (page 309) if the fabric is not washable. If covered with wall- paper, follow directions on pages 160-162 for cleaning.
Screens
If screens require cleaning other than brushing during their brief season, they must be taken down and scrubbed with a brush and soap- suds. Use the garden hose for easy rinsing. Screens made of copper or bronze wires will not rust or corrode. Screens always should be cleaned in this fashion and thoroughly dried before being stored for the winter.
Awnings
Never leave awnings up all the year round. Awnings cannot be cleaned, but they can be repaired by professionals if they are torn or burned. If the awnings get wet, keep them down until thoroughly dry, to avoid mildew. If it starts to rain while awnings are raised, lower them as soon as possible. Dirty water may collect in the folds and cause stains.
Glass Curtains and Draperies
The laundering of washable glass curtains is discussed on pages 301 and 302. Directions for laundering washable draperies are given on pages 303-304.
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CHAPTER XV
RUGS AND CARPETS
A rug or carpet is a major investment and its purchase is usually carefully considered and planned for long in advance. When the time arrives for the actual purchase you shop for days, sometimes, to find the rug you have wanted for so long. Quite naturally, after spending so much time and money, you expect the rug to last for many years. If you have bought wisely and if you give it the care it deserves, you can be sure the rug will reward you with gcxDd service.
Dirt is the great enemy of rugs. There are three types of soil to be combated: surface littter, such as crumbs, lint, thread, sand, tracked-in dirt, etc.; all-over surface soil which is greasy; and grit. Of these three, grit does the most serious damage. If you allow embedded grit to remain in rugs they will soon be ruined, because the grit sifts down to the base of the nap and, when walked on, cuts off small pieces of the [>ile. The daily use of a carpet sweefXT, and weekly cleaning with a vacuum cleaner prevent grit from settling deeply into the rug. Clean carpets and rugs pay dividends in longer life.
Certain types of rugs are harder to care for than others and you should take this point into consideration in making a selection. Light colors naturally show spots and stains. Gradual accumulation of soil will darken and change the color. Areas where traffic is heavy are apt to change in color. Professional shampooing is needed much oftener when the rug is light colored. On the other hand, very dark, plain- colored rugs show dusty footprints. Patterned rugs or plain rugs in medium tones are, therefore, easier to care for. Rugs with heavy, dense pile will take hard usage. Carpets which cover the entire floor area make rooms seem larger but the professional cleaning of such carpets is expensive. All of these points should be considered in mak- ing a selection.
There arc several precautions which apply to the care of all types of rugs which, if heeded, will do away with the heartbreak of seeing an expensive rug wear out quickly, before your very eyes:
I. The floor on which a rug or carpet is to be laid shoultl be smooth and even. Rough, uneven floornig, loose boards, protruding nails
RUGS AND CARPETS
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Left: Good rugs deserve good rug cushions to lengthen their lives. Right: Run the vacuum cleaner diagonally across a small rug and off the edge, as shown.
or knots in the wood will wear holes or make unsightly ridges in the rug. Be sure the rug lies flat under furniture.
2. Rug cushions under rugs greatly increase their life expectancy and durability and make them seem luxuriously deep and soft underfoot. Cushions should be cut slightly smaller than the rug, to allow for spreading.
3. Rugs and carpets should be laid under tension, to avoid puckering. This is work for experts, not amateurs. Rust-proof tacks should be used for carpets. Large rugs can be "anchored" with special snap fasteners, similar to those used for fastening garments.
4. Lamp cords should never be run underneath rugs (page 90). If you feel that you must do this, however, special flat cords are avail- able which do not make ridges in the rug.
5. Broken casters ruin rugs. Smooth, round steel protectors with prongs to be driven into the wood should be used on all wooden chair legs. Move heavy pieces of furniture occasionally to prevent permanent indentations, and to distribute wear.
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TO PROLONG THE LIFE OF RUGS
Same rug, same bed, six months ot use, hut (.iifTercnt casters. See how the wrong type (left) has rumed the rug.
6. Never pull out tufts or /{/lots. It the twist on a few tufts loosen, making the rug look shaggy in that one spot, clip ofT the long ends with scissors, making them even with the rest. If tufts or knots arc pulled out, holes are left and an expensive expert repair job must be done.
7. Turn a large rug end for end every few months to distribute wear more evenly.
8. Never shal{e small rugs. Shaking breaks threads, loosens knots, frays fringe, damages backing and tears the binding.
9. Never hang large rugs over a line. This bends fibers at a sharp angle while they are forced to carry the weight of the entire rug. The fibers are badly strained and may even break.
10. Never heat rugs with a wire or rattan heater. Severe beating loosens tufts, knocks the sizing out of the back and softens the whole sup- |X)rting structure of the rug.
11. Never try to shampoo or dry-clean a large rug yourself. Thorough rinsing is an impossibility and a considerable amoinit of dirt soaks into the backing along wiih .1 residue ol so.ip. \'ery shortly an
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unpleasant rancid odor will become noticeable. When dry-cleaning preparations are used by amateurs on large rugs, some of the dirt is rubbed into the rug, and if all the chemicals do not evaporate they help to rot the fibers.
12. Cleaning large rugs is a job for experts. Be suspicious of "the cheapest rate in town" cleaners. It isn't cheap to have an expensive floor covering ruined by inexpert cleaning. Be certain the cleaning establishment you select is a member of the Rug Cleaners Institute of America. Inquire about the relative cost of having professional cleaners shampoo the rug on the floor, or at their establishment. Ask, also, whether there is an additional charge for re-laying the rug if it is taken away to be cleaned. Use the vacuum cleaner thoroughly on rugs before they are cleaned, to remove all loose dust and dirt.
13. Small rugs which cannot be immersed in water can be shampooed successfully at home, by using a commercial preparation according to directions or by following this procedure exactly:
(a) Clean rug thoroughly on both sides with vacuum cleaner.
(^) Add a few drops of ammonia to soap jelly (page 190). Whip jelly tostifT lather with tgg beater, until no liquid is left.
(c) Lay rug on table. Scrub a small area with stiff brush and lather, using a circular motion. Rinse with a cloth or sponge wrung out quite dry in clear lukewarm water, taking up all soiled lather. Rinse a second time in the same way. Go over the damp area with a dry cloth. Keep the rinse water clean.
{d) Starting within cleaned area, scrub and rinse another small area. Repeat until entire surface is clean.
(<f) Dry the rug indoors or in the shade. See page 304 for washing instructions for washable rugs.
14. Treat spots and stains at once. Blot up most stains with clean blotting paper immediately, being careful not to spread the stain. Then dilute the stain with an application of clear, cool water and blot again. For fresh grease and oil stains apply an absorbent (page 315) several times. Remove all traces of the absorbent with the vacuum cleaner. Then apply carbon tetrachloride. Stain re- moval is discussed in detail on pages 182-183.
15. Dry air shortens the life of rugs and carpets. It also allows mag- netic electricity to accumulate on the carpet sweeper. This elec- tricity acts on the particles of woolly fuzz cast up by new pile rugs during the shedding process (page 177) and gives the impression
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CARE OF PILE RUGS
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that the sweeper is either dropping dirt or faihng to pick it up. Humidifying devices (pages 436-439) or air conditioning (page 439) overcome dry air during the winter months and prolong the Hfe of all furnishings, including rugs.
16. Holes or tears in rugs caused by burns, moths or careless treatment should be repaired by an expert. G(kk1 rug<leaning establishments ofTer this service.
17. Moth prevention is discussed on page 379.
18. Scatter rugs that are not anchored may cause injuries from falls (page 95). Place non-skid pads under such rugs, or paint the back of the rugs with skid-proof material.
19. File all identifying labels and the manufacturer's instructions for cleaning and care, and refer to them frequently.
Pile Rugs
New pile rugs always go through a "shedding" process which often alarms the homemaker who does not know that this must be expected. Cut-(jfT ends of the nap which have fallen back into the pile during the shearing'process have been left in the rug and come to the surface during the first few cleanings. This condition may persist for several weeks. The use of a vacuum cleaner during this period is recom- mended, as it gets the shedding process over with more cjuickly.
"Shading" is another situation which often causes concern to own- ers of pile rugs. Traffic, or constant pressure, flattens the pile, or makes it slant in one direction. Lights and shadows caused by this crushing make it appear that the rug is changing color in spots. A good rug cushion helps to prevent excessive flattening of the pile, and a good vacuum cleaner helps to straighten crushed pile and lessen "shading." Turning the rug end to end as often as every three or four months distributes wear more evenly. "Shading" is unavoidable, and need not cause anxiety.
The natural slant of the- pile is called the "lay." It your rug is plain, shading will be less apparent if the lay is pointed away from the light. Cf)lors and patterns look stronger and darker if the lay points toward the light.
Care of Pdc Rugs
Daily: Remove surface liitcr with the carpet sweeper or vacuum cleaner.
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Weef{/y: Clean the rug with the vacuum cleaner two or three times a week (page 131). Get at the hidden places (under the piano or davenport, for example). Clean the edges thor- oughly. If the floor is completely carpeted, use the narrow suction tool around the edges.
Occasional: Remove spots and stains at once (page 182). Twice yearly, roll up large rugs and clean the floor underneath thoroughly (page 143). Replace the rug and vacuum thoroughly. Reverse the rug and vacuum the wrong side. Lay right side up again and re-vacuum. Professional clean- ing or shampooing by experts should be done as often as necessary.
Oriental Rugs
Beautiful Oriental rugs are a source of great pride to their owners. They are made to stand hard treatment, but not abuse, and good care is necessary to maintain their beauty and to keep their soft, glowing colors free from dimming dust and grime. If the rugs